[Fiend]

Meanwhile back in the real world 

Next week STG: Re-focus on physical self-care including stretching - yes. Maybe increase things a LITTLE bit (inc board) if body feels okay - yes. Mentally prepare for regaining some routes focus for spring - yes.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - n/a. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - yes. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes. Look after injuries - yes, gym x 1 - yes, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe) - yes, x 1 enough, shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, counting TGUs, stretching x 3 - yes, 3 ½ .
Amount of actual progress as I get older: none whatsoever - but tentatively slowing the constant decline this week??


M -  2 hours misc scraping, scrubbing and brushing. 4 x 6B-6C (flashed).

T -  Indoor board climbing @ Depot 30. 4 x V2 (warm-up twice + mirror), 4 x V3 (twice + mirror), 2 x V4 (inc mirror I couldn't do last time), 2 x different V5 (both mirrors I couldn't do last time), 1 x V6 (classic I couldn't do last time), several attempts on a V6 (harder asymmetric mirror of a V4 :roll: ), 2 x V3 (warm-down + mirror). Good session where I felt I'd clawed my way back to 2022's levels of weakness, almost entirely due to good dry skin, good cold conditions in the Depot training room, and good new shoes to dig into the holds. Warm up included a set of 10 TGUs (5 each side), very grumpily. Later did a decent overdue stretching session, inspired by Artilect's excellent mix: https://soundcloud.com/subtleradio/code_mcr-sessions-w-artilect-subtle-radio-22022024

W - Indoor routes @ Parthian. F6a+, F6b, F6b+, F6b+, F6c, F6c+, attempted F7a+ (one careless foot slip, pulled straight back on so know I could have done it), and another F7a+ (close but came off sloping ripple crimps). Small practise falls on all and one nice larger fall. Felt okay on routes and fine with practise falls. Skin good. Cheeky half stretching session.

T - Rest. Very slothful. Cheeky half stretching session.

F - Indoor bouldering @ BUK. 8 x V3, 8 x V4, 8 x V5 (5 flash, 2 x 2nd go, 1 worked due to comedy bollox start, attempted 2 more but abandoned due to being comedy bollox), 1 x V6 (flash, attempted 3 more that seemed decent and could have gone with more time). Okay session. Felt good warming up but then was finding stuff a bit hard after, maybe not used to BUK setting any more. TE fine, skin still good, strained big toe randomly reappeared - WTF - so taped it up.

S - Gym. Misc weakweights(tm). No worse than usual. A bit tired after yesterday's wall sesh. 10 TGUs as part of warm-up with inverted 6/8kg kettlebell. Other shoulder rehab. Elbow rehab - apparently I can do short sets of 16kg wrist curls fine, I guess the golfer's elbows are stable for now. 50 mins full stretching session.

S - Active rest. A bit tired after yesterday's gym sesh. Took pads for 30 min walk (including tearing the shoulder straps due to an unwieldy triple stack). 4+, 6A, failed on 6A+ I did decades ago. 30 mins gentle brushing and testing holds on abseil. Cheeky half stretching session.


Okay to decent week. Ticked a lot of boxes but it was only a few things that stood out - a good board session (solely due to other factors apart from climbing well on a board), and back on the stretching bandwagon with sean kenny authorised half sessions which added up. Felt generally a bit achey after Fri / Sat but injuries are manageable.


Next week STG: Same as before: Focus on physical self-care including stretching. Maybe increase things a LITTLE bit if body feels okay. Prepare for regaining some routes and away-venue bouldering focus for spring.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 1, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[Duma]

Lots of green there fiend, nice work!

[Duma]

M - eve, TCA, 90 min, plan was a couple of blue projects in advance of the reset this week but they'd already been stripped. So bit aimless, but managed to finish the last 2 whites, one by missing out the bad holds, and one by crimping a bolt hole. Nice to complete the set. Did a couple of the more interesting looking probs from the comp too.
T - eve, TCA, 180 min. Much longer than optimal, but after warming up went upstairs with my mate who wanted to try whites up there. Played on a few of the comp boulders, repeated a couple of blacks, then went downstairs to get on the new blues (7A and up) which was the original plan. Did 5 including 2 flashes, close to 2 more that I reckon will go when fresh, and lots of moves on a few others. Good session, but def an easier set than last time.
W -
T - eve, TCA, 120 min, blues. Tried 15, although only 11 where more than brief fondles. Did 3 and repeated one of the easier ones from yesterday. Close to another and starting to make some progress on a couple of the harder ones.
F - Dune
S - aft, TCA, 120 min, mostly blues. Did the 2 I was close to, think that's all the softies out the way now. Repeated a couple of whites and blacks, and minor progress on 2 blacks I'd written off.
S - glorious day, but no partner. Went for 4+ hr walk past a couple of crags in the sunshine which was nice though. TCA 60 min afterwards, feet not keen on rock boots after the walk. No ticks but a bit of progress on a couple of blues.

71 kg.

Golfers seems to be settling a little, though certainly not better yet. DIP pretty much there now I reckon.

[duncan]

M - Siurana Grau dels Masets with Cristiano. Should really have been trying the project but first time with a new partner and also feeling a bit bleurgh with toothache. Warmed-up on a 6a+ and the punchy Keine Kraft (6b+). Tried L’Alternativa (6c) but was a bit tired and psyched-out at the top and grabbed a draw. Great climbing, felt about E3/4! Interesting contrast in climbing styles: Cris managed the latter quite easily but struggled a bit on the former.

T - Reus to see a Dentist. Very professional and good value compared with the UK at €25 for check-up including X-Ray. Much as I anticipated the tooth is a write-off and I will have to come back to have it pulled.

W - Toothache particularly bad after breakfast so cancelled morning climbing plans. Felt a bit better in the afternoon and went back to Grau dels Masets for another play on La Muerte with the Taz. Still enjoying using this though it does occasionally slip a few inches before grabbing. I’m using a brand new static rope, a Decathlon one which seems very soft and has an almost waxy finish, which may be the issue here. Tie a big fat stopper knot not too far down the rope is my current solution. Managed the bottom boulder problem after quite a few tries, it helps if you trust your feet! Did three quarters of the middle section in one go, about 7as worth of climbing. Left hip (in)flexibility was the cause of failure so I need to keep working at this. Overall, a good working session.

T - Belay duties. Bumped into some old friends from Tahoe. Max wants to climb with me and postponed flying home to spend another two weeks here (another web developer who seems to have the remote working gig sorted!). Hip flexibility and leg conditioning.

F - Back on La Muerte with the Taz. Felt like I was going backwards. This is projecting right? Had slept badly and my mind was on the afternoon trip to Reus for the dentist. The extraction went smoothly and I now have near symmetry in my missing teeth.

S - Battered in arms and mouth. Scheduled rest day. Belayed Max on Puceta de llençol. This does look good but is fortunately sufficiently hard and steep to not be a temptation! Hip flexibility work.

S - Snow! Scheduled rest day. Hip flexibility.

Mixed feelings about La Muerte, at the moment it feels like a little bit too big a step-up. I'm still not sure about this whole projecting business: there are a lot of 7a/+s I’d love to be doing here!

I now have a psyched partner for the rest of the trip so I can get on the lead and try the crucial top moves properly.

[webbo]

Duncan
Have you had your hip,X-rayed. I spent a year with hip pain gradually losing mobility before getting an X-ray to find it was bone on bone and I been wasting my time trying to mobilise it

[duncan]

Duncan
Have you had your hip,X-rayed. I spent a year with hip pain gradually losing mobility before getting an X-ray to find it was bone on bone and I been wasting my time trying to mobilise it

Current problem is with my left hip. I know I’ve got arthritis in my right hip from an X-Ray a few years ago. I can’t remember what it said about my left hip. The right was quite painful last May and I saw my GP about it then but was told a further X-Ray wouldn’t change management and to come back when the exercises stopped helping and I wanted a hip replacement (I’m broadly in favour of this philosophy).

It’s quite possible this applies to my left as well, the conditioning and flexibility work may be what’s keeping it going, it’s noticeably worse when I slacken off for a few days.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - DL singles up to 143 kg. GM 116 5x5. Shoulder static holds heavy.
Tue - boxing bag.
Wed - AM 2x; farmer's 6' 130 kg.
Thu - TRX, Lattice edge mixed grips.
Fri - AM 2x, short on time.
Sat - shoulder static holds, pull ups, finally.
Sun - boxing bag.
Still very not psyched for board climbing. Skin is always too soft and temps at the board too high. Must sort this out somehow.

[monkoffunk]

M - Gym am. Deadlifts, weighted pull ups etc. Yoga.
T - Gym am. Deadlifts, non weighted pull ups, dips, etc. Bit more core than usual. Yoga.
W - 10k run. Yoga
T - Short yoga.
F - Gym. Deadlifts up to 110kg, 2 sets of 3. Weighted pulls.
S - Sister in laws birthday weekend. First alcoholic drink of the year.
S - More birthday stuff. Glass of wine or two at lunch. Off now til Easter. Yoga. Small amount of fingers.

Fingers are what I’m really lacking in my routine at the moment, try sort that next week!

[Wellsy]

Monday - Little Gem for a bit. Freezing cold and felt weak. Honestly had overdone it

Tuesday - Easy climbing day but felt bad. Kept it chill but again was overdoing it

Wednesday- sacked off any training. Executive decision to restart this week in the plan

Thursday - Fingerboarded. Cleaned 85kgs.

Friday - Dune 2

Saturday - Good Kilter Session, plenty of pressing. Bit of Fingerboarding

Sunday - Weightlifting in the morning. Chill Session in the evening so as not to overdo it.

Next week I need to really get in two good pulling sessions and two good Fingerboard sessions as well as get back on track with plenty of quality climbing. Restarting the week in the plan a wise decision imo.

[shark]

M. Tor. Frustrating session on Bens. Did the cross thru in isolation a couple of times then repeatedly failed on the throw

T

W. Tor. Top rope on Tin Of with Ben S which was wet and greasy. Struggled with the crux but got it sussed in the end. Ben did it a oner. I didn’t get even close. Maybe had a play on a couple of moves on Bens Think I did a bit of foot on campussing when I got home

T

F Drive to Devon

S Weighted deadhangs on Metolius Edge BW FC, HC and drag 10, 10 and 10 secs  FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups +15kg FC,HC&D 10,10 and 10 sec 3x2 pull ups then +27.5kg FC 4 and 6 secs and HC 4, 6 and 5 secs Drag 8 secs

S

Pretty unhappy with the weather, my climbing and my weight.

Must do better