In terms of boulders I like, much like jwi I rate Jimmy's blocs and also griffin whitesides generally and just try to work my way through theirs.Also can't say I massively agree with the overgraded comments, they're just quite basic no? I have to drop my grade by 2 grades at least normally compared to what I'd do in the same time on rock.
Quote from: yetix on February 21, 2024, 12:41:39 pmIn terms of boulders I like, much like jwi I rate Jimmy's blocs and also griffin whitesides generally and just try to work my way through theirs.Also can't say I massively agree with the overgraded comments, they're just quite basic no? I have to drop my grade by 2 grades at least normally compared to what I'd do in the same time on rock.I think it's partly dependent on the grade you're climbing at. I find the kilter board is particularly soft at the 7B and below range but evens out at v10+.
I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all.
I don't understand indoor grading of boulders at all. Outdoors, I expect to climb about the same grade regardless if it is in Ogawayama, Yosemite or Fontainbleau. Indoor I have to calibrate at every gym even though they use much of the same brand of holds.I don't think it is particularly useful to compare flash-grades inside and outside though. Especially on boards. Unless it is the first time in your life you touch the specific holds on a problem it is not flash. And quite often two board problems share the same move somewhere, and if you've done one, the second can never be a flash.If allowing flash on boards I would expect to flash harder grades indoors than outdoors. The same for any indoor wall really. If I go to a gym a few times and do some circuits, I know all the holds in the gym and thus can never truly flash again.