[Aussiegav]

Another week of (submit word of choice here).

Power Club

Monday -
Finger board at home
18mm edge.
Half crimp 6x 10s hangs. BW + 5 kg

Tuesday
Rest.

Wednesday

The Depot before work.
Did broken  Redpoint Crimpd session on the 7a circuit ive not tied before. Molly H traverse slay. 7a. hardwood circuit board.
The aim was to do it in a session by breaking into halves. Then Redpoint on the last of the 3 sets. 20moves long. I broke it down into halves.  for the first two sets. I sent it on the 3rd set first try. Powered out and didn’t manage it for the 2nd & 3rd reps of the set.

5x 3 power pull-ups
3x4 pistol squats as a super set to finish.

Felt good. Happy with the send.


Thursday
I had a relationship coaching session to deliver in the evening. Couldn’t train.


Friday
Rest

Saturday
1 hour peloton ride.   

Sunday
Virgin Gym. Strength training
Chest flyes 3x8 12kg
Preacher curls single arm. 3x8 14kg. 12kg for right arm. Elbow doesn’t like these.
Box jumps
4x4 pistol squats

Went to The Depot after Virgin.
Worked the purple 7a+ circuit. Found it very complicated. Got the top half in two links.

[mr chaz]

Nice one Aussiegav.

Power Club:
M.
T. Evening shed session. Warmed up on fingerboards and worked up to one arm max hang on lattice edge with 12kg assistance. Can use this as a benchmark for making progress over the next few months. Would like to get back to no assistance on each arm. Then 45 mins on the woodie.
W.
T. Evening board session. Working on some slopey pinchy goodness.
F.
S.
S. Rained off, so risked my neck ( ) on a 3hr MTB ride instead of climbing.

[monkoffunk]

M - Yoga. Half crimp repeaters 7,13. 
T - Yoga.
W - Gym. Dead lifts, Few pull ups, (body weight), dips (weight off), single arm row, bench, reverse bar curls and shoulder rotations.
T - Yoga
F - Gym. Similar to W but added some +5kg pull ups. Elbows feeling great but still not gonna push it. Yoga.
S - Nothing! Short walk with daughter’s little cousin.
S - Yoga. Half crimp repeaters. Just the one round.

Need to go for a run next week.

[Dingdong]

M - rest
T - rest
W - Mossatrocity and flick of time hungover
T - one arm iso +20kg, one arm shrugs x4 +20kg, orange circuit at depot, Arnold press 4x4 +17.5kg each hand, prone shoulder rotations 6x4 15kg
F- rest
S - rest
S- one arm iso +20kg, one arm shrugs x4 +20kg, edge lifts 55kg 4x8, pinch lifts 28kg 4x4, pinch holds 18kg 10 seconds x4, orange circuit, pull-up strength clusters 40kg 6 reps x4, frenchies 4x4, iyta prone on bench 7kg 6x6, TRX IYT 6x4, cooenhagen plans 7 seconds x 4 15kg, wrist extensor and flexor curls 10kg 6x3

[shark]

Thanks Gav



M Stick clipped up Montrebei 7c which I failed to get to the top of last Friday. The terrifying top bit turned out to be ok once I knew where the clipping hold was. Belay a tough clip too. Had one redpoint falling off the tough sting in the tail crux at the end of the crux middle section

T Two redpoint attempts on Montrebei at either end of the day getting to the same point as the previous day. After second redpoint attempt refined the crux. With hindsight should have gone to the top and refined the headwall too.

W

T. Cloudy. Windy then gales. Nearly lost my duvet jacket. Warmed up on the lower half of Montrebei A team of noisy but friendly Spaniards turned up. Went for the redpoint using power screams in part to drown out the background noise and got through the crux to the leg in hole rest. Carried on up the burly crack system but felt spent. Despite a long rest at an almost no hands rest still felt bolloxed. Pressed on up the scary headwall but got shut down with my face by the last bolt and took a flyer. The Spaniards were impressed. Worked the top section better and came down. A Labrador ate one of my sandwiches Belayed Matthew on 3 routes. Bumped into Andy Sharp. Wind picked up. Had another redpoint attempt but felt knackered and cold so stopped at 8th bolt then bolt to bolted to the top. Stripped route as forecast was for rain.

F Rain

S Travel home

S

Motivation pretty high on the trip. It felt ambitious tackling the 7c but it was an inspiring route and it almost fell into place. Currently, very keen to sneak back there at the end of the month if there are any takers…?

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - tired. Triceps, high pulls, TRX, one arm hangs on pull up bar front2 and mid2.
Tue - GM 116 kg, 100 kg with pause 10" x3, bentover rows.
Wed - 4x AM session. BM mixed grips front2/back2 small pockets. Nice.
Thu - AM 2x; PM farmer's and shoulder holds. Heavy.
Fri - push ups, dips, side planks during online meeting. 2x AM session, ab wheel at home.
Sat - DL from half blocks singles up to 142 kg then at 130. Low volume.
Sun - boxing bag. Heavy.

[Duma]

M - rest, calf almost better.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min, mostly new purples (low 6's) but pleased to finish off one of the harder blacks too. DIP ok, elbow not great, annoyingly restrained calf on a smear.
W - rest, calf sore but not limping at least.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min, planned short easy session just keeping skin in shape. Actually long moderately hard session, finished the purples, two more blacks. Repeated a couple of other blacks, and worked out the moves on a blue. Calf still not great but didn't make it any worse thankfully. Elbow plush. DIP seems on the mend.
F -
S - travel. Snowing when we arrived...
S - Albarracin, Techos. Still a sprinkling of snow and ice about. Bitter and hard to stay warm. Finished warming up with a flash of the excellent El postigo 7A after Remus showed the way. Then introduced to the roofs with Rema Remero 7A. Thrashed away for umpteen goes before eventually managing the very R shoulder intensive Rompededos 7A+ before over to the classic Eclipse 7B. Roz and Remus smashed it out quick but sadly my R shoulder had already given it's all and I powered out just before the lip three times.  Finished at Brainstorm, managed a very satisfying flash to the mid height jug for the 7A tick but no beans or balls for the 7B full high finish. Great first day.

72 kg.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Regrow skin - yes. Indoor volume - yes. Look after shoulder - kinda. Keep stretching - not quite enough.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - a tiny bit. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - mostly. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - reasonable, niggles eased off, gym x 1 - yes, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe) - once was enough, shoulder rehab x 2 - once not enough, stretching x 3 - twice not enough.

M - Active rest. 1 hour walking. Fondled some holds. TE sore I think from sleeping on it funny, but not when using it.

T -  Gym. Misc weakweights(tm). Felt low energy and ropey but did some. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. 45 mins stretching, felt good doing this.

W - Indoor bouldering @ Blochaus. 4 x V2-4, 4 x V3-5, 3 x V4-6 (2 flash), plus some general dicking around. Generally powered out. Also a bit of walking and touching scrittle.

T - Rest. 20 mins walk. 20 mins stretching.

F - Indoor board climbing @ Depot 30'. Approx 4 x V2 (2 + mirrors), 4 x V3 (2 + mirrors), 5 x V4 (2 + mirrors, 1 unmirrored) 4 x V5 (2 + mirrors), mostly 1st or 2nd go, plus a few close attempts on V6. Skin pulp and TE sore at first, both eased off well, and stopped before fatigue. A decent board session, not the best ever, but vastly better than the "having to siege my tertiary warm-ups" disasters last summer.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 6 x V2, 6 x V3, 6 x V4, 8 x V5 (6 flashed, 2 x 2nd go, attempted 2 more), 6 x V6 (3 flashed, 2 x 2nd go, 1 worked, attempted 2 more). Skin pulp sore at first, TE mostly fine, and stopped before fatigue. A good wall session, felt fine and well recruited after yesterday, just a slight bit of tenderness in forearms, and enjoyed getting a good crank on.

S - Rest. Aimed to do some stretching and rehab at some point. Instead ate far too little food, had a visitor later in the afternoon (still no food), thought I could wing it via just feeling weak and dizzy but getting to the local shop for some dinner. Instead ended up in the worst energy crash I've ever had which was basically a 2-3 hour slow-motion panic attack where I was cognitively and emotionally lucid, able to communicate and well aware of the situation, but felt utterly detatched from myself and any sense of time, like I was in a long term waking dream. Eventually once I was alone I managed to slowly eat some apples (despite having spikes of nausea-anxiety but without feeling nauseous), and eventually dinner and got to bed feeling alive again. What a fucking shitshow.

Mixed but decent week. Enjoyed the board / Onyx sessions especially. Fuck knows what I was doing to myself on Sunday, won't be doing that again.

Next week STG: Don't be a knob. Indoor volume. Look after shoulder. More stretching. Ponder TGUs before avoiding them.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe), shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[duncan]

Thanks Gav.

Reguchillo sounds great. Can’t make it this spring but perhaps next winter?


M - Easy shoulder/elbow conditioning: handstands, side planks, reverse curls.

T - Fingerboarding (short duration, high load).

W - Shoulder conditioning: as above plus IsYsTs and face pulls on the rings. Hip flexibility and leg conditioning: sumo squats, single leg squats, active hip flexion and abduction for mobility, frog stretch, hops.

T - Stronghold. A good session. Such a pleasure to play on some decent indoor boulder setting that feels vaguely related to climbing outside. Apparently I can flash V4/5, partially a question of being more syked for the style, perhaps a tiny bit soft 
Usual shoulder conditioning as warm-up.

F - 10km walking. Dad's taxi service: Elizabeth Line to Woolwich and back twice. 4 hours on trains..

S - 10km walking and more time on the trains. Was going to try out another of London's proliferating bouldering walls but didn't feel 100% so did a short fingerboard session at home.

S - 10km Walking and much tubing again.

More going on the train than training this week, however general health is better.

Bonus Monday:

M - Portland, with csl.  Glorious weather, blue skies all day, breezy but sheltered on the east side, low humidity. Started at Cheyne, warmed-up on Cruise Control which felt suitably cruisy, then belayed csl on Illusions (close but no cigar). Relocated to the Cuttings, dogged up Nightmare Scenario, practised the top and most of the groove on a TR. Had a red point go but took a couple of tries to remember the nuances of the hard move low down. Much easier once it clicks. The third try ground to a halt at the top of the groove. It was wet in a couple of places rendering the previous beta unusable and I’d not properly worked an alternative. Went to the top from here, missing the last slap with the anchor at my nose and taking the lob to some way down the groove. csl repeated it and was polite enough to make it look like he was having to try quite hard at the top. Great to be out after weeks and weeks of grey, good fun, certainly counts as a try-hard, and felt OK generally on it which was a relief and the main point of the trip.

Assuming I'm cleared for take-off, hope to be in Siurana from Sunday.