[shark]

M. Travel. Manchester to Alicante (to fit in with Matthew’s travel plans - Malaga is closer) then 4 hour drive to near Jaen

T. Reguchillo! Beautiful place. Virtually roadside Quiet(two other teams not even on the main sweep of cliff (Sectors Celador to Heavy Metal). Came in from top and walked past an amazing section left of Celador that was unbolted for unknown reasons. Did a few easy routes then got shut down on a 6b+. Don’t know whether it had lost holds or what. Wandered down and homes in on Kukuxumuxu 7a. Was still in sun. Had to pull out all the stops to onsight this including taking full advantage of a couple of hand jams that presented themselves. Chuffed with that.

W. Reguchillo. One other team on another sector. Did some nice easy routes in the sun with a view to dogging up something hard in the late afternoon shade. However came over all tired on a burly 6b/+ and toes were screaming so called it a day.


T.

F. Reguchillo. Went shopping for a project Dogged up Terapia de Choque 7b in the shade. The low crux was desperate off a tiny minging left crimp. The rest was great but could see myself getting shut down on the crux so stripped it. Joined by an older Italian couple and their territorially barky dogs. Loitered in the sun till late afternoon. Matthew got the 7a! Decided to go on the highly rated 40m Montrebei 7c. Superb. Enjoyed dogging up it but got a bit wigged out on the runout to the final bolt and bailed. Played on my mind after and will get back and take a clip stick as it might be possible to do the route despite my current lack of fitness as the hard sections have good rests between and will be fun to try.

S. Cueva Negras. 30 min non-arduous amble through olive trees to get there. Amazing but limited wall with some stunning routes. Warmed up on a couple of short sharp 6a’s on the pillar in the middle. Then fell off the gnarly start of a 6b+/c to the right. Came down and led to top. The classic 7a was occupied by the other team - the same Italian couple as yesterday. I went on the amazing looking 30m+ 7a+ Aromas de Kalymnos expecting to fall off but did it fine getting plenty of shakes and kneebars to stave off any pump. Great stuff. The 7a was free. I was a bit tired and it was obviously burly but had a go. Bit streny to reach the crux. Somehow neglected to use the best hold on the crux. 🤦‍♂️Using a couple of crappy holds launched to catch the underside of the hanging tufa but didn’t hold it. Led on to the top but too tired for a redpoint.

S.

Glad to have got out here. Temps about 17 degrees and driving around there is rock everywhere. In fact where we are staying is a quirky cave house. Going to try for earlier starts at Reguchillo to catch more morning shade. Excited to see how I get on on the monster 7c.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Sharkathon - yes. Look after tennis elbow shoulder better - a bit but still crunchy. Do some stretching at least - yes!!.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - a couple of things. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - reasonable, but off the wagon with some. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - kinda, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - x1 but that was enough, shoulder rehab x 2 - x1 but should have done more, stretching x 3 - x 4!!.

M - Indoor bouldering @ Awesome Walls. 7 x V2-4, 9 x V3-5. Unfocused and slapdash. Full stretching session before which I was pleased with.

T -  Rest. 30 mins walking. Minor nausea bout so not much else.

W - Rest. Tired after Tue. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Stretching. Pleased I managed to do this.

T - Some scrittle.

F - Active rest. 2 hours inspecting / cleaning routes. Fatiguing but not too tweaky. Stretching.

S - Scrittle / skin loss. 6C/+ in about 30 attempts. Attempted another 6C/+ for about 5 goes, but out of skin.

S - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. 5 x V1-3, 7 x V2-4, 8 x V3-5 (7 flash, 1x 2nd go) 4 x V4-6 (2 flash, 1 x 2nd go, 1 x worked). 4 taped tips but motivated and rest of body felt okay. Enjoyable and varied volume session, stopped before fatigue. Cuddles with Sandy, the RO boss's dog. Stretching session after.


Mixed but okay week. Downs were digestion and poor climbing early on. Ups were better climbing at the weekend and getting back to stretching well, especially in a slothful mood on Wed evening. TE holding up okay-ish (doesn't seem to like rehab tho?) but need to keep working on my shoulder - olive oil turkish get ups are the plan, of course. Shartson session showed my climbing isn't deteriorating much from the bits of scrittle.


Next week STG: Regrow skin. Indoor volume. Look after shoulder. Keep stretching.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2 (maybe), shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Shark. Sounds like a great week.


Monday -
Finger board at home

18mm edge.
Half crimp 5 x 10s hangs.  BW + 5 kg


Tuesday
The Depot after work. Had 4 Redpoint attempts on the 7a+ circuit I’ve been trying the 3 weeks.
Had 4 Redpoint attempts fell at the same move 3 times as I’d done last week. I stupidly changed foot beta which made the set up move easier but the next move harder. DONT CHANGE BETA ON REDPOINT. what a school boy error.

Wednesday

Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard at home

18mm edge.

Half crimp 5 x 10s hangs.  BW + 5 kg

12mm edge.
Made a pleasant error here. Used the wrong session on Crimpd.
Did 6. Hangs at 10s (not the prescribed 7s). Also inadvertently put 5kg assistance on instead of 7.5kg.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went with my eldest to Awesome Walls. So I belayed him for the session. I did some easier climbing to stay warm when he rested.
On the way back I called into The Depot. Walked and pulled onto the 7a+ circuit. Did it first go. Very pleased. Left and came home. 


Sunday
Up all Saturday night spewing and aching all over.
Spent the day with sleeping, spewing or shivering.

[Dingdong]

olive oil turkish get ups are the plan, of course.

Make sure it’s a first pressing

[Fultonius]

As per A2 pulley thread....

Planned to go for some endurance autobelays today, but spent 3-4 hours handing planing 3m ash boards to joint
 them into a top for cabinets/bookshelf.

[Duma]

Hope the rest of the trip goes well Simon. Well done on the project Gav, and get better soon!

M - eve, TCA, 60 min, easyish session. Had to meet a mate but 3rd day on and wouldn't have climbed otherwise. tweaks would have preferred proper rest.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min, new blacks (high 6s/low 7s). Tried 10, did 7 including 3 flashes. Tired, not very good session. L elbow and DIP not great.
W - eve, run, 6k, flat, pavement, easy pace, didn't time it. R calf bit tight for last k and afterwards.
T - R calf improved during day. Eve, TCA, 120 min, blacks. Tried 16, did 12 including 5 flashes. Climbed pretty well, and L elbow and DIP seemed improved, but dramatically worsened R calf (tear? strain?) Limping after.
F - limping. Blessed rest day after sharkathon
S - rest again, just 'cos I can. Calf maybe a little better.
S - calf better again. eve, TCA, nipped in for an hour before closing. Blacks, only a few attempts per problem. Tried 8, did 3, decent progress on 2 others. 6 left from this set now.

1 week till Albarracin. Calf seems like it was just a scare, hoping the DIP will settle with less volume this week, suspect elbow will need a bit more effort but that'll have to wait till after Spain.

71.5 kg.

[edshakey]

Saturday
... On the way back I called into The Depot. Walked and pulled onto the 7a+ circuit. Did it first go. Very pleased. Left and came home. 


Sunday
Up all Saturday night spewing and aching all over.
Spent the day with sleeping, spewing or shivering.

This reminded me of this thread from a couple years back

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=31652.0

Pre illness gainz?

[Dingdong]

Saturday
... On the way back I called into The Depot. Walked and pulled onto the 7a+ circuit. Did it first go. Very pleased. Left and came home. 


Sunday
Up all Saturday night spewing and aching all over.
Spent the day with sleeping, spewing or shivering.

This reminded me of this thread from a couple years back

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=31652.0

Pre illness gainz?

Im 1000% convinced pre illness gains are a thing.

[Duma]

6 left from this set now.

actually 8, I can't count...

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening board session. Swapped my moon fingerboard over for a lattice rung thingy so warmed up on that. Can't contemplate hanging off this one armed yet, also shows how much I was relying on the nestle of the BM2000 back in the days when I was hanging that. Fairly ok session.
W.
T. Evening board session. Nearly did my (much easier) blokesmoker low replica. Had a couple of low profile screw-ons lying around so added to the arete and volumes for toe/heel hooking and messed around on these, gave my core a good beating. Could do with another volume on the left side where its not possible to use the arete.
F.
S. Visiting friends in Stratford upon Avon with some proper good home made pizza and a few
S.

Prospect of getting out next weekend (c'mon weather!) has me frothing.

[monkoffunk]

Going to rejoin to keep the Sharkathon motivation going after I stopped with injury last year.

M - Yoga.
T - Gym. Strength. Yoga.
W - Home physio strength. Yoga.
T - Rest post Sharkathon! Short yoga session.
F - Project. 45 board. 6B max (whatever that means).
S - Short yoga
S - Short yoga

Also somewhat ill now, hit on the 31st, so good timing to finish off Jan alright!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing after ages. Not too bad. Back a bit sore, bad skin. Already 16,5° at the board.
Tue - farmer's 115 kg x6'.
Wed - AM as usual; PM bentover rows, Pendlay rows, volume. High pulls.
Thu - cleans 5x10 75%. High pulls. A few front2 and mid2 one arm hangs on pull up bar, surprisingly good.
Fri - shoulder static holds, farmer's. Bliss.
Sat - AM x2; PM boxing bag.
Sun - tired. Stairs, loaded carries outside.

[duncan]

Only two and a half weeks late but bear with me...

M - Westway: bouldering to V2/3. Booked flights and car for three weeks from Barcelona. Books first week  in Siurana and will take it from there. Yay!

T - Hip flexibility and leg conditioning: sumo squats, single leg squats, active hip flexion and abduction for mobility, frog stretch, hops.

W - Westway: leading with S, 8 routes to 6b+. A decent session.

T - Hip flexibility and leg conditioning as above.

F - Fingerboard: felt pretty strong considering I’ve not done this for a few weeks. Perhaps bouldering helps! As I’ve let my wall membership lapse I hope to do more climbing outside (see Monday) topped-up with a bit of this kind of thing.

A+E for a medical issue later in the afternoon. Eventually cleared to go home but has cast a small cloud over future trips. No!!

S - Gentle walk

S - Gentle walk

To be continued...

[Stu Littlefair]

As per A2 pulley thread....

Planned to go for some endurance autobelays today…

Reckon you saved yourself a fuck up there. IMO high volume, low intensity climbing is the WORST thing you can do for a finger injury.

Keep the volume very low and keep the intensity high as possible whilst staying below ~3/10 on an arbitrary pain scale.

[Fultonius]

As per A2 pulley thread....

Planned to go for some endurance autobelays today…

Reckon you saved yourself a fuck up there. IMO high volume, low intensity climbing is the WORST thing you can do for a finger injury.

Keep the volume very low and keep the intensity high as possible whilst staying below ~3/10 on an arbitrary pain scale.

Iiiinteresting....

I thought it would be so low intensity that it shouldn't matter (0/10 pain, not crimping at all, just open hand / slopers / jugs).

I'm struggling a bit with the next progression then. I'm currently at 68% update: 76% MVC-5 @ 20mm (+7kg) and 10-20s hangs feel fine at bodyweight. like, 1/10 early in set and 0/10 for the rest. Keep upping the load? Stick at this for a week?

Been slacking last few days, but been trying to do 2 fingerboard sessions per day.

I'm cautious about going back bouldering due to the inherent unpredictability of it. Keep fingerboarding until 90% MVC?

[Stu Littlefair]

Yep. I wouldn’t start trying hard again until I’m about 90% MVC and pain free.

But you do want to pull hard enough to feel slight discomfort. Not much and it shouldn’t last long. More at link below:

https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/pain-science-and-climbing-rehab

But when you do start bouldering again,  keep the volume really really low. Stop well before you get tired.