[shark]

M.

T. Tor. Condensed.A dabble on Bens. Did the cross through twice in isolation. Went for a walk

W. Tor again. Decent conditions. Not sufficiently recovered from previous days dabble. Illustrated how much the moves take out of me and how close to my limit it is. Really annoyed at squandering the session. Sacked it off. Went for a walk

T.

F.

S.  Crap nights sleep. PM Tor yet again. Cave to myself. 3 decent burns. First one really close to holding the pinch on the cross thru. Second go similar but not quite as close but particularly satisfying to get the crimp perfectly on the throw move. By contrast on third go had to fight as got the edge as a three finger drag and it was a struggle to convert to four finger crimp so pleased to carry on to successfully doing the kick. Skin sore. Went for a walk.

S. PM. 2+ hours of window cleaning. Knackering. 30 mins on Systems board


Props to Liam - his advice last week re Bens has been helpful particularly regarding the cross through move. My current goal is to be solid on the crux section ie be able to maintain a level of doing it twice in a session. Currently close to being able to do it once so still a fair way off. Maybe shifting my extra 8/9lb weight belt would make all the difference but struggling on that front.

Strategically I’m conscious that overly focussing on Bens has been to the detriment of the other things. I am off to Spain  tomorrow for 12 days. Will be good to have a break from Bens and make up a bit for the endurance and general route shizzle I’ve neglected then take a view on things when I get back.

Saturdays best links

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Shark.

Please delete my other thread for this week.

How’s it been for folks this week?


Power Club

Monday -
Finger board at home

18mm edge.
Half crimp 2 x 10s hangs. 2min rest BW
Half crimp 5 x 10s hangs. 2min rest BW + 5 kg

Split tip doing 3 finger open


Tuesday


Wednesday

Rest

Thursday
Rest

Friday
Rest

Saturday

6 boulder problems. did a purple in 15 mins (6goes).
then went to A pair of brown eyes. did second half first go. had 4 Redpoint attempts. 3 goes fell on 3rd last move, last hard move. pleased with the session

Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Active

Rings
Rows 3x8
IYT’s. 3x9
Pull ups 2 rep max test. BW 84.5kg + 21kg.
Preacher Curls 3x8 (12kg)
Chest flyes 3x8 (12kg)

Box jumps
Pistol squats 4x4

50min peloton ride including 20min FTP test

[Duma]

M - eve, run, 5k, flat, pavement, easy pace, 27min.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min, blues. Did 2, and all moves on another. Another really good session. Mildly concerned I may be peaking too soon with Albarracin in less than 3 weeks. Index DIP joint bit tender. Elbow ok to poor.
W - eve, UCR, 60 min, circuits. 6b, 5, 6a, 6a, 6c, 6c, 7a+, 6a+6b+, 7b. Very unfit. Was meant to be easy volume but got mildly carried away.
T - L Index DIP joint tender in am. Eve TCA, 60 min, oranges (mid 6's) easier session to give tweaks and body a break. Elbow fairly poor
F - L index DIP and golfers both still niggly. Eve, run, 5k flat, pavement, easy pace, 27 min.
S - sport climbing, Uphill quarry, pretty cold but the lack of too much wind made it bearable. OS Proper Job 7a, not the best warm up. Then dropped almost the last move on attempted OS of Chiming For You 7b. Ok next go apart from numb fingers. Foolishly attempted to eliminate the arete on my attempt at Risen From The Grave 6c+, again fine next go. Nice to be out and DIP tweak seemed ok with the the fingery wall climbing
S - aft, TCA, 150 min, blues. Mostly managed to avoid the full left hand crimping to minimise DIP aggravation. Good session anyway, working moves on projects.

72 kg. Still heavy.

[Fultonius]

Frustrating week. Training has been going well and just last week I was saying to a mate about how my fingers have felt the "best" they have in ages, strong, resilient, pain free. Well that all changed...

Tuesday: after a poor nights sleep I almost sacked in the morning session but dragged myself to the wall and did some base anaerobic work on the 50 degree board. 10 move problems at flash level x 4 with 3 mins rest. then did same on 2 other lines.
Finished with a green problem (with 5 move extended start) downstairs x 4 with 1.5 min rests as I was running out of time and it was a bit easy. OK session in the end.

Weds: another shit sleep - full moon?  lucky if I got 4 hours a night and there's nothing I can see as a trigger (all the usualy suggestions not applicable)

Thursday: Decided after my usual fingerboard / pull up / press-up  warm up combo that has been very successful for the last 2-3 years to do some max hangs to "see where I'm at". Worked up to +27.5kg strict HC and +30kg chisel. Roughly the same as feb last year, but been doing very little fingerboard except for using it to warm up for boulder sessions so I'm ok with that. Went downstairs and worked on some new greens, pinks and a white. Low volume session with struct rests between goes. Feeling ok - flashed green 6C, 2nd go on Pink 6C+, worked a Pink 7A for a while and could do most of it pretty well but one move with left shoulder extended and poor feet was really highlighting a deficiency - basic move but just couldn't seem to generate the movement and then latch the pinch bar hold. Finished bouldering while still feeling ok, just a little power loss and went to the gym for weights. Bench up to 60kg (which I forgot I don't do, so 2 shaky reps  and back to 50kg x , weight pull-ups, TRX rows. Went home, ate eggs, worked...

Friday: Woke up - "oh, overdid it on the max hangs yesterday" and ...."Oh, what's that....why is my right hand ring finger feeling grim at the A2"... aaooohhhwwww ffffuuuccckkkkkk.

Sat-Sun: sulking, DIY, Rura gig in Barrolwands for mate's bday. (nae booze!)

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - woke up with half back seized. Probably training outside in sub zero temps isn't a good idea. Light boxing bag.
Tue - slightly better. 3x AM session, OL RDL, shoulder static holds 6' x50 kg. Still no pull ups, no climbing, dammit.
Wed - 6x AM session, GM low intensity.
Thu - light boxing bag, very tired.
Fri - shoulder static holds 52,5 kg x6'. BW hangs on 5 mm, front3 also.
Sat - 2x AM session complete with pull ups. Bentover rows. Lattice edge mixed grips.
Sun - DL 5x5, GM with pause 5x5 110kg. Back improved!

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

Missed previous week, no training because

M.
T. Evening board session - bit creaky after a week off and the lurgy. Eased back into it.
W.
T. Evening board session - much better, pulling ability in right arm and shoulder is increasing rapidly. Looking ahead to the rest of 2024 one place I'm psyched to got back to is the Gop for pure convenience and board style climbing, so started working a (very) loose replica of Blokesmoker low. Would also like to look properly at Push the Button and the Ken Masters as potential goals.
F.
S.
S. 1 hr on the mtb.

[edshakey]

Sorry to hear about the finger injury, best of luck for a speedy recovery.

Rura gig in Barrolwands for mate's bday.

This sounds great though. Been listening to a bit of them recently, reckon it'd be a fun gig?

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Sharkathon - yes. Look after tennis elbow better - barely but seemed to stay okay. Do some stretching at least - total and utter fail.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - did a couple of things. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - kinda. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - not so much, elbow got away with it but shoulder more grumbly, gym x 1 - no, elbow rehab x 2 - no, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - no.


M - Rest. 2 hours wandering around a damp quarry scribbling notes.

T -  RockOver Shartson 7 x V1-3, 5 x V2-4, 5 x V3-5 (flash), 6 x V4-6 (5 flash, 1 x 3rd go, also tried 3 more). No LingLing cuddles. Warmed up pretty well and then paced myself well after, felt good climbing.

W - Active rest. 1.5 hours wandering aimlessly, 0.5 hours intensive patioing.

T - Active rest / moronic rehab sabotage. 2-3 hours misc bramble clearance, trundling, turf trimming, brushing, patioing. Nothing felt specifically tweaked but all susceptible areas quite fatigued.

F - Some scrittle.

S - Active rest. 1.5 hours scrubbing, scraping, and brushing a god-awful vertical bog garden otherwise known as "Yorkshire Grit". Also pulled on a few moves.

S - Bouldering at Stanton Moor. 1 x 6B, 1 x 6C+, a few attempts at another 6C+. TE feeling generally good, shoulder feeling generally impinged, crunchy, and achey.


Mixed week. Pretty decent for climbing including indoors early on and outdoors later on. Feel like I'm only climbing 1 full grade below normal rather than 2. Stayed active overall. Very slack on any form of physical self-care, went a bit too far on Thursday and neglected all rehab and stretching. Must get back on that as I won't get away with it.


Next week STG: Sharkathon. Look after tennis elbow shoulder better. Do some stretching at least.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[Fultonius]

Sorry to hear about the finger injury, best of luck for a speedy recovery.

Thanks. Promising start with some light "no hangs" (feet on ground) half crimp this morning - no pain, just some sensation/discomfort and feels better after!

Rura gig in Barrolwands for mate's bday.

This sounds great though. Been listening to a bit of them recently, reckon it'd be a fun gig?

2nd time I've seen them. First time was 5 or so years ago and I went along with mates who were massive fans, not having heard them much. I was a bit underwhelmed as every time a song came on, my mates (who were a good bit younger and just out of uni) were so amped for each song I kept expecting more....

This time round, pretty much the same gang, but I'd listened to them more over the years and knew what to expect and it was a great gig!  I guess some of their tunes feel like they're building to something bigger, but then just simmer along at the pace without any major ramp up.

Tl:Dr - since you know them and like them - they'll be great! 

[Duma]

then went to A pair of brown eyes. did second half first go. had 4 Redpoint attempts. 3 goes fell on 3rd last move, last hard move. pleased with the session

What's this Gav?

[Aussiegav]

‘A pair of brown eyes’ is the name of a 7a+ circuit that’s been set on the hardwood circuit board at Sheffield Depot.

It’s a 23 move sustained circuit with no proper rests. 

[Duma]

Ah ok - was wondering if the UKC search function was bust!

[duncan]

Thanks Simon. Sorry to miss you at Uphill Duma, but 90th birthdays don't happen that often.

M - Westway - usual warm-up then bouldering. Attempts at various V2/3/4s of the Fridge reset, one new V2/3ish. Westway bouldering setting can be incredibly frustrating if you don't bounce like a 23 year old lad - far too many easy-to-slip-off final moves at an awkward height - which is a shame as the route setting is generally good. Left shoulder felt a bit achey from previous Friday.
T - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility: frog squats, single leg squats, active hip flexion and abduction
W - Westway with The Editor. Leading up to 6b+. Left shoulder still tweaky.
T - Shoulder and hip conditioning, hip flexibility
F - Drive to Weston. Lovely weather and was hoping for a couple of hours at Uphill but two long delays on the M4 scuppered that. ~7km walk on the prom. Pilates with my sister aka shoulder conditioning.
S - Weston. Mum’s 90th Birthday celebrations. More walking on the prom. 
S - More walking, then drove home from Weston.

Quiet week, shame to not get out on rock but the family get-together was great and shoulder benefited from a rest. 

Plan: bouldering with a rope.