[Will Hunt]

If you're done with that Shaun bloke then do Tim Palmer next 
It's OK he won't mind.

You got beef with Palmstrong? He’s pretty handy on the rocks

From what I've seen I'd expected him to find all outdoor climbing a bore. The holds are never small enough.

[abarro81]

It feels a bit like when shorties [...]

Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies 

[Von T]

The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.

[Dingdong]

The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.

THIS IS A THREAD ABOUT LEGENDARY FEATS OF FINGERBOARD.

Not sure I could scream this louder over the internet.

[Wellsy]

Well he didn't post it did he, someone else did, in answer to the question posed by the thread

[Droyd]

It feels a bit like when shorties [...]

Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies 

I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.

I think that the people who most often say 'having extremely strong fingers must make climbing incredibly easy' are the ones with naturally weak fingers who are unlikely to ever progress into the ‘strong fingers’ camp, and that there's a grass is always greener, not appreciating what you have effect at play. You can get massively bogged down here in grit wizard/board moron archetypes and the ideas that the former has had to learn how to levitate up things while the latter just grabs holds and swings about but couldn’t climb a f4 slab in Font, but my basic argument is that if you’re a naturally weak climber, that weakness has defined you and how you climb, and so looking at someone who is naturally strong and saying ‘well if I had their finger strength I’d be climbing x grade’ assumes you live in a universe where you could just do a finger + tendon transplant, and ignores the fact that a) you’re different climbers in different bodies and b) at the end of the day climbing is about much more than strong fingers.

To my mind that’s analogous to short/tall climbers whining about not being the opposite because both involve focusing only on the benefits of being the other thing, and ignoring both the drawbacks of that thing and the benefits that they themselves have, all the while reductively ascribing other people’s successes and failures to that one physical trait and overlooking the broader, multifaceted nature of climbing.

[Fultonius]

The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.

That's a judgement. I didn't start the thread asking who the best climber in the world was, or saying the big numbers on an edge were useful / worth doing / cool / beneficial for climbing harder.

I just wanted to see MASSIVE GYM BROS FLEXING THEIR BICEPS. 

Genuinely just wanted to see what the big numbers were.

[abarro81]

It feels a bit like when shorties [...]

Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies 

I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.

God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more . MukbGA.

It's a bad analogy because being either tall or short has both inherent advantages and disadvantages (strength to weight and reach). There's no getting away from that. Having strong fingers does not have an inherent disadvantage or downside. It's more like having a big ape index than being tall/short.

[stone]

God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more .

Most people can. The Shaun guy who you were commenting about probably can. Most likely you caused no offence to anyone.

I only mentioned that old case because the guy had been so profoundly upset and also because, knowing the people he was so upset by, I'm sure it was entirely inadvertent. It all seemed such an avoidable emotional trainwreck.

[Dingdong]

It feels a bit like when shorties [...]

Except it's very obviously not like that at all. Don't take too much offense, but you are crap at analogies 

I’ll restate my point a little, and if you read it and still think the analogy is crap then explaining why would probably be more of a contribution to the discussion than condescension.

God, can no one take any sort of piss taking any more . MukbGA.

It's a bad analogy because being either tall or short has both inherent advantages and disadvantages (strength to weight and reach). There's no getting away from that. Having strong fingers does not have an inherent disadvantage or downside. It's more like having a big ape index than being tall/short.

Strong fingers usually means sausage fingers, harder to get into pockets, that’s a disadvantage right there

[abarro81]

You'll have to evidence that assertion, anecdotally it's not at all obvious to me that strong fingers correlate with large fingers

[yetix]

Edit removed because effort

[Fiend]

Lattice bouldering training programme, soloing on Lliwedd

My one attempt at soloing on Lliwedd ended with me backing off a move on a Victorian VDiff that I swear was solid 5a. A Lattice bouldering training programme might have helped

Pretty sure this is why LH89 is on his board 4 days a week, to have that in reserve 

[Dingdong]

You'll have to evidence that assertion, anecdotally it's not at all obvious to me that strong fingers correlate with large fingers

Could become a new metric for lattice to measure before starting their plans 

[stone]

I’m one of the finger strength weirdos so feel like I can reasonably contribute here.
I’ve had freakishly strong fingers since starting climbing and could one arm the Lattice rung whilst climbing f7c (routes).

And I had the honour of belaying your first f7c didn't I!

[MischaHY]

I’m one of the finger strength weirdos so feel like I can reasonably contribute here.
I’ve had freakishly strong fingers since starting climbing and could one arm the Lattice rung whilst climbing f7c (routes).

And I had the honour of belaying your first f7c didn't I!

I distinctly remember the words ‘nobody is taking that one away from you’  . Also me and Gaz are blown away by the idea that you wouldn’t want to eat a whole chocolate bar.

[Fiend]

The way I see it is that posting videos effectively showing off how strong you are is pretty lame. A bit like a gym bro flexing their biceps. What deserves respect is actually being a good outdoor climber. If someone has climbed to a competent level (whatever personal level that my be) and they've got there through good movement on the rock and mental control, then that's far more impressive than just because they're far stronger than their peers. If you're ridiculously strong but 'only' redpoint 7c say, then you can't deny it shows shortcomings in them as an actual climber, they're just genetically gifted or dedicated to training.

As much as I love slagging off strong people, posing people, instawhore people, etc etc, this is quite off the mark on two counts. Firstly, see the thread title (and feel free to start a "Legendary Feats Of Sublime Balance And Poise" or "Legendary Feets Of Precise Footwork"). Secondly the strength videos are not about people showing off their muscles and aesthetics, they're about people showing off the strength. A better comparison would be olympic lifting videos, and I think it's as fair to show off some 4-years-climbing 7C punter hanging 4xBW on a credit card as it is showing Eddie Halls 500kg DL...


(Edit: Although some entries in this thread are surely Legendary Feats Of Skin Pulp Structural Genetics...).

[thunderbeest]

Being stronger generally means better better health ...

That, I think, is complete bollocks.

[User deactivated.]

Being stronger generally means better better health ...

That, I think, is complete bollocks.

Its not an opinion. I can't be bothered to spend time referencing all the studies demonstrating the relationship between strength training (i.e. the way a person becomes stronger) and people living longer, healthier lives, but there are hundreds.

[thunderbeest]

Two questions:
- i thought aerobic training is more important die health than anaerobe
- isn't it that training van no training has health benefits, but not that top sporters have netter health than People doing a regular amount of training?

[User deactivated.]

Two questions:
- i thought aerobic training is more important die health than anaerobe

Actually, resistance training (strength training) generally appears to be better for longevity than aerobic exercise, and even more so in older people.

- isn't it that training van no training has health benefits, but not that top sporters have netter health than People doing a regular amount of training?

Possibly. Elite sports can become unhealthy for many reasons.



 

[Wellsy]

Being strong and athletic is very broadly considered very good for general health

[joel182]

Bloody hell, can we get a thread split so people can start posting videos of people hanging the 6mms as a one arm pinky mono or whatever?

Anyway: Molly Thompson-Smith doing a one armer on both sides on the small Beastmaker2000 crimps
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHdldILjwzX/

[Fultonius]

Bloody hell, can we get a thread split so people can start posting videos of people hanging the 6mms as a one arm pinky mono or whatever?

Anyway: Molly Thompson-Smith doing a one armer on both sides on the small Beastmaker2000 crimps
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHdldILjwzX/

Fuck yes! Nice one molly. This is what this thread is about. Yes, climbing prowess is cool but so is doing impressive shit on small edges!

Chapeau molly,!

[Fiend]

Such a deep lock I thought she was going to do a muscle up!

Shit training for sliding across dual tex tho