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Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding (Read 6486 times)

Fultonius

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Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 17, 2024, 08:00:50 pm
Given we have various other threads arguing to toss over how useful the metric of "how much you can pull on a 20mm edge" is, I thought this could be a fun counterpoint. Especially since I just watched a (fairly poor and not very informative) video by Emil Abrahamson hanging +86kg off a 20mm edge...

What's the current record on maximum load (BW + Added Load) ever hung off a 20mm edge?

Either 1 arm or 2.

So I'll start the bidding at Emil:  Estimate 82kg BW form what he said, so a total 2-arm max load of 166kg.  BEAST!

For reference I'm 111.6kg (strong enough for 8C, actually climb 7B)   


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#1 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 17, 2024, 08:55:38 pm
Yves Gravelle. Not hanging, but peak force on a 20mm edge with 1 hand: 117kg.

He seems to be pretty even with both hands too so I imagine he could hang well over 200kg.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl7l3najqDe/?igsh=MWMxM2Y5aGl1dG0xZQ==

haydn jones

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#2 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 17, 2024, 09:04:53 pm
I thought Allison Vest was the strongest fingers in the world? one arm hang on the beastmaker edge with +50Kg

yetix

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#3 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 17, 2024, 09:13:47 pm
Puccio did +44lb at 53kg (if she's the same weight now as when competing) 1 armed sans nestle.

Allison +100lb with nestle at idk her weight, but that's just mad

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0E-1Q-JOqw/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Fultonius

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#4 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 17, 2024, 09:28:21 pm
Might be a very short thread this one  :lol:

Dingdong

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#5 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 08:38:49 am
My friend shaun hung +120kg on the 20mm edge at around 66kg weight - it went a bit undercover but I believe quite a few wads are aware of the feat, has to be one of the heaviest hangs In history

mrjonathanr

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#6 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 08:43:29 am
Are you saying the total weight was 186kg??

Tom de Gay

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#7 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 09:00:41 am
What will snap first: the edge, the fixings or his tendons?

joel182

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#8 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 09:30:48 am
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...

+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==

rodma

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#9 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 01:04:42 pm
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...

+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==

That one's minging. Full crimp ahoy.

Allison's +50kg mentioned higher up is a ridiculously impressive achievement.

I think even had I started climbing at a young age, had very knowledgeable coaching and actually adhered to it, I would never get anywhere in that ball park.

The feats achieved these days are astounding


tim palmer

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#10 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 01:50:11 pm
Not sure which of @monscogram feats are the most impressive...

+70kg at about 57kg bodyweight on 10mm edges
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgwMQojIXN/?igsh=MXRtZmU0M2J3aGV1dQ==
This guy is a complete mutant but his form is pretty bad,  I am not really sure a lot of his pull ups actually count

jwi

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#11 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 01:53:32 pm
It's amazing what people can do when they prioritise hangboarding over getting good at climbing

tim palmer

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#12 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 05:00:44 pm
It's amazing what people can do when they prioritise hangboarding over getting good at climbing

How do you know he isn't a v15 crusher

jwi

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#13 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 05:28:46 pm
v15 has probably been flashed! (v14 has been flahsed by many so v15 cannot be that impressive). v17 has been done without shoes. And 9a has been done onsight by people who focus on getting good at climbing
« Last Edit: January 18, 2024, 05:39:09 pm by jwi »

tim palmer

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#14 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 05:39:29 pm
v15 has probably been flashed! (v14 by many). v17 has been done without shoes. And 9a has been done onsight by people who focus on getting good at climbing

And are pros who have unlimited time to get strong whilst climbing and who probably fingerboard like fury

Dingdong

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#15 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 06:13:12 pm
Are you saying the total weight was 186kg??

Yes around that, I’ll see if I can find the video!

Dingdong

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#16 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 06:19:45 pm
Second video on this post for those interested, shaun is a mutant https://www.instagram.com/p/C1zalo1Sea-/?img_index=2

290% BW

teestub

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#17 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 06:20:53 pm
My friend shaun hung +120kg on the 20mm edge at around 66kg weight - it went a bit undercover but I believe quite a few wads are aware of the feat, has to be one of the heaviest hangs In history

Not sure how you even go about hanging this much weight off yourself, I find any more than 40 a bit uncomfortable around the waist,  amazing!

remus

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#18 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 06:31:25 pm
Second video on this post for those interested, shaun is a mutant https://www.instagram.com/p/C1zalo1Sea-/?img_index=2

290% BW

Hate to be a sceptic, but is that really 120kg he's got on there? 120kg is a lot of big plates.

ed: looks like he's at the works, somebody get the scales!

Dingdong

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#19 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 07:08:20 pm
Im not 100% but no reason for shaun to lie about it as he’s just crazy strong on a hangboard

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#20 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 07:18:18 pm
It's the equivalent of 93kg per arm. Based on him doing 60kg with a 10mm edge it's within the realms of possibility. Also aren't the BM1K edges slightly bigger than 20mm?

So is Yves Gravelle still the winner at 117kg with one hand?

yetix

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#21 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 08:03:46 pm
Bm1k outside bottom edges are 18mm I thought?

Dingdong

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#22 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 08:15:48 pm
They’re 20mm and the middle of the 2k is 22mm as far as I’m aware

teestub

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#23 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 08:47:38 pm

Hate to be a sceptic, but is that really 120kg he's got on there? 120kg is a lot of big plates.

ed: looks like he's at the works, somebody get the scales!

Looks to be a kettlebell between his legs too which may account for a decent amount. Just standing up with that much weight is impressive!

abarro81

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#24 Re: Legendary Feats of Fingerboarding
January 18, 2024, 09:22:59 pm
I know it's mean, but I just can't stop thinking about how stunningly bad at climbing you'd have to be to be that strong and not climb 8C+ or 9b!

 

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