[stone]

Broughton was very much an old school wall in a sports centre (in the 90s we used to share the hall with the badminton players!), it's closure was related to the closure of the school on the same site and the subsequent decline of the sports centre.
I made one nostalgic return visit this century, just before it closed, having previously been there regularly in the early 90s. It had become appallingly polished, which is always going to be an issue with walls where the climbing is on permanent features, especially natural stone.

The only wall of that kind that's still in use that I'm aware of is Glossop, which still seems to have a following. I wonder what state that's in?

I live five minutes walk from Glossop Wall. I went once when we first arrived 22 years ago. It seemed awful to me. Almost like a League of Gentlemen style surreal experience.  It is on a narrow balcony above the hall where they were doing aerobics. The aerobics lesson was incredibly loud through a distorted tannoy. It was worse than Avon traffic noise. I didn't get the impression that it would be safe to fall off with the balcony wall etc. The climbing seemed grim too.

Perhaps I would have come to love it if I had persisted.

[Bradders]

A place like that with a couple of boards rather than a terrible looking bit of wall would be decent. There seems to be a few places like this in the states https://adventurefitdojo.com/ which must have a pretty high monthly cost to make business sense. Would love something like this locally

Agreed.

I think they're not targeting climbers, it's an extra for health club punters. All the photos so far people aren't even wearing climbing shoes.

Why would you paint it bright orange anyway!

[Muenchener]

Glossop Wall ... I didn't get the impression that it would be safe to fall off with the balcony wall etc.

Yep, I always found that aspect of it quite character building, even by the general standard of the hard floor matless bouldering walls of the time.

[nik at work]

I would guess that the Hangar opening near an axjsitnf wall is probably bad news, as there middle seems to be a race to the bottom. Basic wall, lower price membership than the incumbent.

I've not been to a depot, but by the sounds of things they're trying to go for quality and expansion of provision  over undercutting? So maybe more likely to lead to the market growing and other walls continuing to manage?

I’m intrigued by this post, why do you think this? There’s a Hangar and a Depot in Sheffield and whilst the two walls are different I don’t know that “race to the bottom” would describe either of them. Or have I misunderstood your post?

[Duncan campbell]

The Hangar’s monthly membership is crazily cheap (£30/month) so I think that is what is meant by the race to the bottom… I don’t know how many other walls offer a month of climb for £30. There individual entry is £14 though so basically if you are going to the wall more than twice it makes sense to sign up.

I’m never really blown away by Hangar climbing walls in general, with the only exception being the OG one which I do think is decent (but maybe that’s because I have always been on decent jobs in Liverpool so I’m in a better mood when I go to the wall.

[abarro81]

I had the hangar down as expensive in my head, but that's because I go about twice per year so only ever pay the (very pricey) one time fee...

[Fultonius]

I would guess that the Hangar opening near an axjsitnf wall is probably bad news, as there middle seems to be a race to the bottom. Basic wall, lower price membership than the incumbent.

I've not been to a depot, but by the sounds of things they're trying to go for quality and expansion of provision  over undercutting? So maybe more likely to lead to the market growing and other walls continuing to manage?

I’m intrigued by this post, why do you think this? There’s a Hangar and a Depot in Sheffield and whilst the two walls are different I don’t know that “race to the bottom” would describe either of them. Or have I misunderstood your post?

I must caveat that I've never been to the Hangar. (or any wall in sheffield for that matter). Just heard things about their strategy, seen the monthly pass prices etc.

I suspect their MO is sell passes at a loss/breakeven, hoping that people with passes bring in day-payers, make money from them and the cafe?

It's difficult to make any money out of passes at £30/mo.

[kc]

It's a £30 rolling direct debit and just like many people who get gym membership they expect people will forget or can't be bothered to cancel during the lean seasons.

[rossydoodle61]

Health club clientele need health club level facilities.

Speaking of, the bouldering at this place opens today in Huddersfield:

https://www.bigboxleisureclub.co.uk/

A place like that with a couple of boards rather than a terrible looking bit of wall would be decent. There seems to be a few places like this in the states https://adventurefitdojo.com/ which must have a pretty high monthly cost to make business sense. Would love something like this locally

Christ. You’re not kidding. $497/month for 3 sessions a week… That includes coaching but I can’t see an option to just use the boards. I guess that’s how they can keep the group limited to 20.

https://adventurefitdojo.com/training/

[sxrxg]

It's a £30 rolling direct debit and just like many people who get gym membership they expect people will forget or can't be bothered to cancel during the lean seasons.

Gone up to £32.99 now. Still seems like a decent deal in Liverpool where you have access to two walls that are both quite different. Also the expansion of the South wall and kilter board has added even more value.

Also what is great for me is that there is no minimum 12 month term. I have taken out membership starting October and will cancel at the end of March (or April if the weather is particularly poor). Then will probably take out another membership next winter.

[teestub]

Christ. You’re not kidding. $497/month for 3 sessions a week… That includes coaching but I can’t see an option to just use the boards. I guess that’s how they can keep the group limited to 20.

https://adventurefitdojo.com/training/

Well fuck that puts £60/month or whatever into perspective!

[Bradders]

Christ. You’re not kidding. $497/month for 3 sessions a week… That includes coaching but I can’t see an option to just use the boards. I guess that’s how they can keep the group limited to 20.

https://adventurefitdojo.com/training/

 

And that's the cheapest option! $700pm for 5 sessions a week! Mental.

[seankenny]

Salaries in the US…

https://x.com/jmhorp/status/1639324427572609029?s=20

[mrjonathanr]

author=Muenchener link=topic=33865.msg687019#msg687019 date=1705140902]

Glossop Wall ... I didn't get the impression that it would be safe to fall off with the balcony wall etc.

Yep, I always found that aspect of it quite character building, even by the general standard of the hard floor matless bouldering walls of the time.

https://www.ribapix.com/sports-centre-university-of-liverpool-the-climbing-wall_riba88085#

You’d have enjoyed the old Liverpool Uni Sports Centre wall then,  on a balcony 20 odd feet above the gym. No mats and nice exposure.

[Muenchener]

You’d have enjoyed the old Liverpool Uni Sports Centre wall then,  on a balcony 20 odd feet above the gym. No mats and nice exposure.

I did, although only a couple of times. I wasn't officially able to get in since I wasn't a student when I lived in Liverpool

[jwi]

Christ. You’re not kidding. $497/month for 3 sessions a week… That includes coaching but I can’t see an option to just use the boards. I guess that’s how they can keep the group limited to 20.

https://adventurefitdojo.com/training/

 

And that's the cheapest option! $700pm for 5 sessions a week! Mental.

I met Zach in Abella some ten years ago, he seemed very focused on finding a way to make a profession out of climbing. Well off people in Lake Tahoe are increadibly rich, so fair game to him.

[gme]

The people now starting climbing will lap this stuff up. They are happy to pay for a coach, a lattice plan, a diet plan, guided technique lessons. It’s not like it used to be.

Why would a wall offer development classes for just the price of your entry when they could charge a tenner.

The same people are happy to pay £100 a month for some magic green powder so why not for access for coached sessions at a wall.

People are used to paying for guided sessions in most aspects of gym life and will happily do so for climbing. There is no doubt it would work.

[rginns]

What even was Broughton? Seen loads of nostalgia for it on ukc as well.

Steep Bendcrete spray on concrete/resin onto mesh with loads of stone edges inserted. Picture Rubicon, with more pockets, and always dry. And crap footholds- like a crag. Numbered holds so it had a guidebook full of eliminates.

I guess access is decent from the West (M56) and South and West Manchester - but I'd have thought its catchment area overlaps quite heavily with the Trafford Park Depot. Its also in a shit area. I wouldn't want to walk too far around there after dark. Strange they didn't go for the East side of town..

People managed to survive visiting Loiwer Broughton…
Wythenshawe location is minutes off the M60, M56, M6 and as someone posted above, the airport. It’s a killer choice for access.

Broughton was mega, and in a proper shite area, but dirt cheap, just over twenty quid a month or something.
More than once the local yoofs burst in with the security guard chasing.
Provided a certain edginess to the sesh...

[petejh]

The people now starting climbing will lap this stuff up. They are happy to pay for a coach, a lattice plan, a diet plan, guided technique lessons. It’s not like it used to be.

Why would a wall offer development classes for just the price of your entry when they could charge a tenner.

The same people are happy to pay £100 a month for some magic green powder so why not for access for coached sessions at a wall.

People are used to paying for guided sessions in most aspects of gym life and will happily do so for climbing. There is no doubt it would work.

.. replied Tom from Lattice Training, when asked by the bank’s commercial manager about market potential during his meeting to apply for a business loan.

[teestub]

.. replied Tom from Lattice Training, when asked by the bank’s commercial manager about market potential during his meeting to apply for a business loan.

He’s gone from an Aston to a McLaren, maybe he’ll be in a Veyron by this time next year!

[gme]

The people now starting climbing will lap this stuff up. They are happy to pay for a coach, a lattice plan, a diet plan, guided technique lessons. It’s not like it used to be.

Why would a wall offer development classes for just the price of your entry when they could charge a tenner.

The same people are happy to pay £100 a month for some magic green powder so why not for access for coached sessions at a wall.

People are used to paying for guided sessions in most aspects of gym life and will happily do so for climbing. There is no doubt it would work.

.. replied Tom from Lattice Training, when asked by the bank’s commercial manager about market potential during his meeting to apply for a business loan.

The old romantic in me hates what lattice etc has done to climbing but can see why it’s happened. Anyone climbing less than 8a/A really doesn’t need to be so structured though.

However the businessman in me finds them absolutely fascinating. Only wish I had thought of it before them.

Computer automated training plans at 40 a month. Thanks very much sir.

[Dingdong]

Back in 1999 only a handful of people were privy to training and how it was done. It’s great that companies like lattice have normalised it and made pretty much all that information public and FREE across their YouTube videos. A massive resource that anyone can access. if you want to someone to take the hassle of building a plan then you can pay the extra. I think it’s well neat if you want to improve and also I don’t subscribe to the idea that you need to be climbing 8A for a plan. 8A is fucking well hard 

[remus]

Computer automated training plans at 40 a month. Thanks very much sir.

For what it's worth, every plan is written by a coach. Computer generated plans are hard to do to a high standard.

[User deactivated.]

I agree with GME's sentiment that there are people who don't need a training plan but putting a number grade on it makes no sense. Everyone's starting point and genetic ceiling is different. There are people who have been climbing and training on their own for a decade maxing out at 7A and there are others who climb 8A in their first couple of years without looking at a fingerboard. The former group might do well with a bit of assistance.

[mrjonathanr]

.. replied Tom from Lattice Training, when asked by the bank’s commercial manager about market potential during his meeting to apply for a business loan.

The old romantic in me hates what lattice etc has done to climbing but can see why it’s happened.

Have they, though? Done something to climbing? Could they have just offered what people have been wanting since Owen Glynne Jones lifted iron during Manchester winters way back when? ie clear and structured knowledge about how to get better with training? It seems to me Lattice have not forced it on the masses, rather it's the people who go climbing who have lapped it up and who are responsible for the success of Lattice (amongst others).

And I'm about as 'jumpers for goalposts' as you can get. (I think)

Here's a question: what would Jerry do, if he were 16 now?