[gardinrm]

Has anyone climbed this amazing little problem? I swear I saw a video a while back, but can't find it. Lost in instagram probably.

Had a couple mini sessions on it and think it seems absolutely class. Tricky and technical. Getting a bit stuck, but all fun. Seems odd to me that more people don't get on it.

[JamieG]

Couple nice pictures here.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mkPkgJJZc/?hl=en&img_index=2

Think it climbs better than it looks from the ground.

[spidermonkey09]

Had my eye on this for a while but keep getting distracted by other stuff. I'd also be interested in a video if one gets unearthed.

[Dingdong]

From the pics olly posted my guess to beta is: start sitting on double gastons  with right foot on the pedestal, bump right hand to the perfect pinch, bring left foot up, bump left hand up the edges and then roll over to the slopey pinch on the arête, bring right foot up one more, right hand into the small undercut on the right and then slap left hand to the top

[User deactivated.]

There are many 3 star problems across Yorkshire that are lucky to see a single ascent in a year. Everyone just goes to Almscliff and climbs Demon Wall Roof. 

Edit - next time i'm struggling for beta on my project i'll just send Carlos a photo of it 

[spidermonkey09]

It starts sitting down and left at an obvious jug, that I do know. Not sure if you're saying the same thing?

Krafty, which is on one of Ollie's videos, about 10m left is also really good but needs a few pads.

[Dingdong]

There are many 3 star problems across Yorkshire that are lucky to see a single ascent in a year. Everyone just goes to Almscliff and climbs Demon Wall Roof. 

Edit - next time i'm struggling for beta on my project i'll just send Carlos a photo of it 

It’s one of my superpowers, looking at something and spotting beta fairly quick. Like on crusis, rather than going out to the right arête for the end I instantly knew to gaston that right hand top pinch and throw just from looking at it  :p

I guess for this thing starting on the low left jug you hock up to the left gaston, match, get double Gaston’s and then continue as my above post?

[User deactivated.]

There are many 3 star problems across Yorkshire that are lucky to see a single ascent in a year. Everyone just goes to Almscliff and climbs Demon Wall Roof. 

Edit - next time i'm struggling for beta on my project i'll just send Carlos a photo of it 

It’s one of my superpowers, looking at something and spotting beta fairly quick. Like on crusis, rather than going out to the right arête for the end I instantly knew to gaston that right hand top pinch and throw just from looking at it  :p

I guess for this thing starting on the low left jug you hock up to the left gaston, match, get double Gaston’s and then continue as my above post?

Your beta did look better than my original method to be fair!

[spidermonkey09]

A couple more photos here on Sam Mawson's page including a world class bit of sandbagging: 7A+!

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2bJy6hjgWO/?hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2KSxFoD7dT/?hl=en

[JamieG]

From watching a couple people on it (including Robbie) I think the crux is actually releasing the left foot and holding the barn door once you have the pinch and high left hand crimp. Looks tough. But really cool techy moves.

[gardinrm]

I'm loving the armchair beta advice. Think it's quite far off the mark though - no possibility for a double gaston, but instead it's all about drop knees and lay aways. Really cool and awkward.

The ending seems to be all about avoiding the barn door.  I do feel like i've seen a clip of Ollie climbing it but I might be imagining things.

[Will Hunt]

I've wanted to have a look at this for a while but it's always wet whenever I'm there.

[peewee]

Me and Sam Mawson sussed this out he then nipped in for the FA a few day later a while back. It's a great little problem hidden in plain site. Good to see it getting some attention. The crux as mentioned is a drop knee and smear on the arete to reach over to the crimp then hold the barn door to get an undercut round the corner then blast for the top.

[gardinrm]

Nice. I'm struggling to work out how to get the pinch in the first place, but think I can make the top work. I also suspect you can avoid the reach over move entirely and dyno for the top from the pinch itself. Keen to get back there soon. Conditions were perfect yesterday.

[spidermonkey09]

I bet it would get done more often if a stand start was added to UKC. I imagine this would be in the 7A-B region and would form part of the brilliant low 7 circuit on that bit of crag. Depends if there's a natural pull on position I guess, there might not be. I know some people don't like this though, especially given the original was a sit.

[JamieG]

I think the stand would be a very natural problem too. Pull on with the pinch and one of the side-pull/gastons. Sort feet, reach for high crimpy hold and try to hold barn door. Would still be hard I reckon. My brother had a couple of goes trying to dyno from that starting position to the top.

Unless you can just pull on with a foot around the corner and avoid the cool moves. Not sure.

[spidermonkey09]

Had a play today. I think the stand would be a good problem and is worth recording. It's probably 7Bish. I started with the pinch and the lower gaston, left foot arete, then right foot higher up the arete and dropped left knee on the highest bit of the flake to the left. I could then statically rollover to the crimp (the good bit is a bit further right than you think from below). I could then get the undercut without releasing the left foot, then release, hold the swing and go for the top. Not dabbing on the boulder to the right is hard though. I did it from a stand bar a micro dab.

I thought the moves to attain the pinch from a sit were pretty hard, and can see how the full thing is 7C. If anyone has a sequence I'd be interested to hear it.

[JamieG]

Good stuff spidermonkey. Sounds like it climbs well even from a stand. Shame that avoiding a dab is a key consideration.