[User deactivated.]

Inspiration thread.

What are some of the best lines in Europe?

Rules: photos, videos or links must be posted along with the name of the problem, location and grade. Bonus points for reviews or anecdotes relating to the climb / area.

[stone]

Obviously it has to be something at the Tor.

AFAIK this is an as-yet-unclimbed linkup. I've mentioned it to people who are into Tor linkups but it hasn't piqued any interest. They've been more than capable of climbing it (I'm certainly not), so presumably they have just been too overawed by the majesty of the line.

It's https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490
but once onto the slabby bit, going onto the wall of
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392
when that gets to the tufa of the Prow, joining that for
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912

If a pebble was dropped from the summit of the Tor it would take that line. It misses out the rests at the Revelations belay and at the nesting hole on the Prow because the climbing doesn't lead past them, not because of any contrivance. It has an amazing variety of styles of climbing. I guess it would only be 8b+. Everyone get going!

[User deactivated.]

Not exactly what I had in mind...

[sherlock]

Obviously it has to be something at the Tor.

AFAIK this is an as-yet-unclimbed linkup. I've mentioned it to people who are into Tor linkups but it hasn't piqued any interest. They've been more than capable of climbing it (I'm certainly not), so presumably they have just been too overawed by the majesty of the line.

It's https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/revelations-15490
but once onto the slabby bit, going onto the wall of
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/brazen_strumpet-94392
when that gets to the tufa of the Prow, joining that for
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/raven_tor_millers_dale-146/the_crucifixion-70912

If a pebble was dropped from the summit of the Tor it would take that line. It misses out the rests at the Revelations belay and at the nesting hole on the Prow because the climbing doesn't lead past them, not because of any contrivance. It has an amazing variety of styles of climbing. I guess it would only be 8b+. Everyone get going!

Sounds like it might interest Paul Preuss?

[andy popp]

Not exactly what I had in mind...

More like this?

[jwi]

Tom et Je ris, Verdon.


Photo by Simon Carter

Access from above, hard to find slogging down the slope, easy to identify from the other side of the river.

[jwi]

Kingfisher, Lofoten



Photo Jonas Paulsson, who also wrote the first exhaustive guide book for bouldering on Lofoten

[stone]

Tom et Je ris, Verdon.

Amazing photo!
There's a great write up about that route too at https://steve-mcclure.com/articles/116-tom-et-je-ris

[Dingdong]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

[Bradders]

Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!

[stone]

Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!

Would that be https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage_popular-104/the_hatchet-73825#videos?

[teestub]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny

[jwi]

Kingfisher, Lofoten



Photo Jonas Paulsson, who also wrote the first exhaustive guide book for bouldering on Lofoten

Does this work?



If not: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=276232


Another contender: Un poco loco, 8b in Montserrat, very few bolts (courtesy of Alex Huber in the shape of his life). Very long. Overhanging arete on a freestanding pillar in a stunning location. To the left is Lourdes, of the same grade, but with more reasonable distance between the bolts.

[User deactivated.]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny

Jesus that's going on the to do list! What is it? (Please don't be 8B)

[teestub]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/averstal_magic_wood-8438/the_wizard-410338 well within your capabilities

[205Chris]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny

Jesus that's going on the to do list! What is it? (Please don't be 8B)

The Wizard, Magic Wood. 7C

[Dingdong]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny

No I’ve only ever climbed at Stanage 1 time.

[El Mocho]

I think Careless Torque gets my vote, the most striking standalone arête in Europe surely. God what a beautiful piece of rock, I never get tired of seeing it.

Have you left the Peak District at any point?! One out of many that I’ve seen in person out of the hundreds out there https://stories.27crags.com/featured-crags/9bhd9afhms8pxczzzzw28eh3feapny

No I’ve only ever climbed at Stanage 1 time.

I'm gonna (almost) second Carlos here. Having only seen that Magic Wood 1 in that photo it looks ok. Easy wall to left of it and above a river. Careless is a very good line on both a macro and micro scale. Stand right below it and look up and it has a lovely sinuous curve of perfect grit. Although not overhanging it is very ships prow like - the highest point of the boulder, with the roof at the bottom. A decent landing but the ground does then drop away making the line look and feel even more imposing. Positioned looking out over the moor below down to the Hope Valley - It visible from miles away. I guess I'm also tied to the history and the climbing on it which are both also great.

I don't think I've seen or climbed a better arete on grit or in Font, and again drifting away from purely the 'best line' bit but the two best bouldering areas in Europe are Font then Grit, and the best lines are aretes so...

I thought Andy's suggestion was pretty banging.

[SA Chris]

I don't think I've seen or climbed a better arete on grit or in Font, and again drifting away from purely the 'best line' bit but the two best bouldering areas in Europe are Font then Grit, and the best lines are aretes so...

....Malc's then

[remus]

La Merveille 8A+ at Cuvier does it for me. Straight up line, bit of height, established by the legend Marc le Menstrel. Phwoar!

[Dingdong]

Careless Torque isn't even the most striking standalone arete at Stanage!

Literally just opinion innit. Not sure why everyone has to be so combative  on here all the time ffs  what’s your suggestion then Nick?

[Wellsy]

Honestly I think that Careless Torque as a line (as a boulder problem I don't know I've never done it and never will) is definitely one of the best in the UK and therefore one of the best in Europe.

As for other amazing ones, I did a 6A arete in font last October that looked sick. Can't remember the name though.

[User deactivated.]

Note the title says 'lines' (plural) - it wasn't intended to be a competition for first place! Could it be changed to 'Very good lines in Europe'? There will be lots, but that's great. More inspiration please.

[36chambers]

No idea about best, but my all time favourite line is Reservoir Dogs E8 7a at Widdop
But growing up nearby, I'm definitely bias towards the place.

Partage 8A+ is another all time favourite. Couldn't find a picture of someone on it from the best angle, but it's obviously the left arete here https://i.ytimg.com/vi/EQjGRCeC0G8/maxresdefault.jpg looks infinitely better in person. 

Careless torque is wasted on the peak

[jwi]

DNA looks very impressive when you stand under it. It must be the best line of the very hardest routes. Other than that Bibliography is a nice blue streak, much as its easier neighbour as well.

Teplice has some striking lines. I was told, in no uncertain terms, to not try Tsunami

Tsunami has a grade that somehow is supposed to translate to 7b+. I can do that. However, later I saw a video of Ondra power-screaming and sketching between bolts on the only onsight of the thirthy year old route

On the same trip, I got spanked on Udolni on Hlaska, here is the top half



For longer routes, I imagine that something in the Dolomites has the best line?