[haydn jones]

Tried this the other day, obviously the arete used on Crucis is out but there's some crimps (little 4mm edges) near to the arete that I used as an intermediate, is this how other people do the problem, or is it pure eliminate and jump straight to the top?

[36chambers]

The problem John Gaskins climbed back in 1993 was actually "Cherry Falls Right" - ie: get the Cherry Falls crimp with LH, match as best as possible with R and go again with R straight for break.  Dunno if it's been repeated.  Probably somewhere in the 8A - 8A+ ish range.

No idea whether this means the intermediates are out. Did your way still feel about 8A/+?

I'd guess that everyone who's logged this on UKC has done the 7B/+ version.

[Nemo]

"Tried this the other day, obviously the arete used on Crucis is out but there's some crimps (little 4mm edges) near to the arete that I used as an intermediate, is this how other people do the problem, or is it pure eliminate and jump straight to the top?" - haydn jones

It's Almscliff eliminate territory, so as you can probably guess, it's been done most ways that can be thought of. 

There's the "easy" way, which is around 7B ish, which is really just a variant on Crucis - ie: LH on Cherry falls crimp, and rock out to the sloping side of the diagonal break, then up to top break with LH.

Then as you say, you can get LH Cherry falls crimp and rock out to various crappy edges and use those to go again for the top break. Not done this, so not sure how hard.

And then just getting LH Cherry falls crimp and either chucking straight for the top break with RH, or potentially getting a bit of a match on the edge first.  This is what Gaskins did back in the 90s (which was written up wrongly in earlier guidebooks as what is now Identity Crisis to the L). And I believe it's been done by others (as in I vaguely remember conversations where people have said they've done it, but won't name names as I can't remember the specifics). 

IIRC, however you do it, it's supposed to be a fair bit easier than Cherry falls proper.  But I'm well out of the loop these days, so my memory could be talking nonsense.

[haydn jones]

Nice one, cheers for the info, can't imagine matching it as the good part of the crimp is on the right hand side so you take it as greedy as possible to the right leaving no space to match.

[Johnny Brown]

Gaskins tho innit. He could match on monos.

[teestub]

I think the difficulty of the strict version somewhat depends if you can reach the top break with the heel toe in. I think I only know one person who has done the strict version taking the crimp and locking straight through to the break. Your right hand does have to essentially wave at the crucis crack on the way past, so deffo full eliminate territory.

Wonder if the normal version is due an upgrade, doesn’t see many ascents for a board style 8A+ at Yorkshire’s busiest crag.

[remus]

My Almscliff knowledge is shit so apologies if this is just going over what's already been covered, but I stumbled on this pic of Tim Clifford on the FA of Cherry Falls in OTE 116.

[tomtom]

around 2010 I spotted XYZ (forgotten his name - Martin? nice fairly quiet guy who was one of the people who set up CityBloc in Leeds) on this. Snowy day. From memory he did it like in the pic, RH up to the crimp then layed one on for the break. Impressive stuff.

Was a snowy low humidity day several below zero. 

[andy_e]

Martin "Shaggy" Smith

[tomtom]

Martin "Shaggy" Smith

"it wasnt me.."

[36chambers]

around 2010 I spotted XYZ (forgotten his name - Martin? nice fairly quiet guy who was one of the people who set up CityBloc in Leeds) on this. Snowy day. From memory he did it like in the pic, RH up to the crimp then layed one on for the break. Impressive stuff.

Was a snowy low humidity day several below zero.

I did wonder if you were the other Tom in this viddy

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ILp5A7gf_7w

[tomtom]

That was me! Blue and white hat.

[andy_e]

Amazing video. This was at the height of Martin and Tom's bromance, when they used to go on dates to the farm shop all the time, hence the bacon sandwich reference

[tomtom]

Amazing video. This was at the height of Martin and Tom's bromance, when they used to go on dates to the farm shop all the time, hence the bacon sandwich reference

Great connies that day - I was plugging away at the Keel then... Think I had a towel shoved in the pocket that kept the snow from building up on the face and lip!

To be honest, I'm amazed I remembered his name and roughly the year! Brain cells aint what they used to be :D