the shizzle > equipment
How small is too small?
User deactivated.:
More shoe trying...
The best heel on my foot was on the Unparallel TN Pro, which also had the joint best toebox alongside the Instinct VSR. It seems quite similar to a VSR overall, except being slightly stiffer, having more toe hook rubber and a slightly higher angle toe box.
As much as I wanted to buy the sexy off-white limited edition VSR's, I couldn't argue with the overall feel of the TN Pro and bought them. Hopefully it works and I don't run back to my ridiculously undersized Theory's!
Allegedly the Unparallel Souped Up is built on a similar last so I may have to order some of those to try for my soft pair...
For anyone interested in sizing: TN Pro size 9 = Instinct size 8
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I've now climbed in my new shoes a handful of times, inside and out, and I'd recommend this process of going to a shop with a large selection and trying on ALL the shoes to everyone.
I've always favoured very soft shoes, and I realise now this was because I was downsizing so far that I was essentially turning all shoes into supportive shoes, and choosing the softest models brought back a bit of needed sensitivity. However, in properly sized shoes that didn't fit my feet very well, I lost all feeling due to air gaps and not having my toe close enough to the rock. Now i'm in shoes that perfectly fit my feet, and despite them being stiffer than i'm used to, they feel more sensitive while having more power on small edges, and I can keep them on without discomfort. I'm yet to find any downsides.
SA Chris:
What was your final choice, and how far downsized.
SA Chris:
--- Quote from: sirlockoff on January 01, 2024, 10:37:30 am ---I now wear solution comps at size 44, my feet have never been this happy, and I feel like cinderella, and I've gotten some hard heelhooks done too. In 3 months of font, I did not once blame the shoes for anything neither wished anything was different, I don't even take my shoes off, and the other day I was doing 100kg squats in the shoes, felt great.
moral of the story, it is worth trying bigger shoes, also to take into account that you want to do this sport for more 30-40+ years, you deffo need to have comfortable shoes. If you find there is some specific problem that just does not work with your comfortable shoes, have a backup shoes that are optimized for cases where the comfortable shoes fail.
--- End quote ---
This was my end point I reached too. I now wear a "reasonably" sized pair of solution comps, which are great for edging on nothings, climbing steep ground, and pretty good for smearing where needed. Toe hooking is very good, heel hooking is probably the lowest scoring.
I no longer lose toenails at regular intervals, can happily wear them for a session without having to take them off all the time because feet are sore and arches are cramping. And my feet are never sore enough after a day of climbing that I can't run, and usually my feet are OK in the shoes after a long run.
User deactivated.:
--- Quote from: SA Chris on January 10, 2024, 02:37:18 pm ---What was your final choice, and how far downsized.
--- End quote ---
Unparallel TN Pro (the yellow one) in a size 9 UK. This felt about equal in size to an Instinct VSR in a size 8 but has a better fit for me. I'm a street shoe 9.5/10 UK (more often a 10).
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