[Fiend]

It's all warming up for the Sharkathon...


Next week STG: Forgot - yes, don't know what it was but it was actually an okay week!.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - lol nowhere near. keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - pretty decent, people chatted with on Xmas Day and all, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - yes but so weak, elbow rehab x 2 - kinda but extra icing and stuff too, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - twice.


M - Active rest: Traditional Christmas Cripplerun(tm). A couple of miles with a few walking sections. My first run since tweaking my gracillis, which itself felt absolutely fine. Heart and lungs felt like I was birthing a chestburster, legs felt like lead, and left leg clot site was aching from 1/4 of the way in. Inserted 6 brussel sprouts up my bunghole to aid recovery.

T -  DOMS so acute I could barely get down the stairs, and lungs still aching for most of the day. Indoor bouldering @ VauxWest. 10 x V1-3, 12 x V2-4, 3 x V4-6 (1 flash, 2 x 3rd go). Skipped the V3-5s as I didn't like the holds on those. Tried another 7 V 4-6s with no chance of success. A world away from Onyx and not really able to adjust to #lndnclmbng where the harder mid-range stuff is clearly set both by and for crossfit yoga freak gym bunnies in skin-tight Under Armour who Love The New Fitness Trend Of Indoor Rock Climbing and get up everything by flamboyant kipping or prolapse-inducing posturing right down to the technical dunce gym bros who couldn't do the only easy move on the hardest V2-4 because it actually involved balance and technique but were having fun fist-bumping their way through sets of muscle-ups to finish etc etc basically fuck off. A fair amount of bench and shoulder press (extremely weak), and some elbow rehab. Stretching session. Moral fortitude building by having a coffee with duncan.

W - Rest. DOMS in legs. Forearms achey from #lndnclmbng. Shoulders achey and tight from pushing. Tennis elbow quite okay (had iced well on Tue evening)

T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot Pudsey. 6 Blues V1-3, 6 Black V2-4, 10 Red V3-5 (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go), 8 Purples V5-7 (7 flash, 1 x 3rd go). Tried 6 more Purples that I couldn't do in 3 goes each, close on a couple. The set looked a bit easier than they were and I struggled with being WEAK on any steep cranking, but did okay. Had indigestion the night before and queasy all day. JulieM brought me pickled sprouts which will obviously help. TE sore after, similar to after Onyx, but was trying hard.

F - Active rest @ Birchens Edge. A few easy warm-ups, a few moves on middling stuff, and getting burnt off by an unholy alliance of Farnell and Fatneck, henceforth known as Fartneck. TE a bit sore but not too bad given yesterday's session and the bleak conditions.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Boardroom. 10 x "D" (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go) - whatever the gangrenous bollocks "D" is supposed to be, 10 x "E" (8 flash, 2 x 2nd go) - whatever the chargrilled cockscraping "E" is supposed to be, 1 x "F" (flash, and attempted 4 more), whatever the utter festering shitwank "F" is supposed to be. Session was, errr, ummm, session was....mmmm I HAVE NO FUCKING IDEA BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE STUPIDEST GRADING SYSTEM IN THE HISTORY OF STUPID GRADING SYSTEMS. I could have been doing terribly scraping up V2s or I could have been doing great cruising V6s but I can't tell because they're still sticking with the gobbledegook letter-vomit non-grading non-system in defiance of any common sense nor functionality. I definitely did some problems, I'm pretty sure I pulled on holds, and I recall that my tennis elbow was a bit sore but not too sore. Oh and I did some more left leg heelhooks and didn't aggravate my gracillis.

S - Gym. Bench (very weak), deadlift (extremely weak), OH press (astonishingly weak, couldn't even get to a prior warm-up). Dire all round. Lots of knee rehab that was much improved and felt more like knee restrengthening. Stretching session.


Okay week with a good level of volume and a bit of supplementary training. Onyx on Sunday before going down to #lndn had put me in a good mood to put up with the god-awful place and I capitalised (...) on that with a run and more wall sessions. TE is feeling generally a bit sore BUT is in line with the Biscuit Principle "If an injury is coping with a higher workload with the same amount of pain, it's progressing". Still need to take care tho. Planning 2 days off the wall in a row. Knee has progressed well, proven by heel-hook tolerance on Sat and better hamstring curls on Sun.


Next week STG: Sharkathon.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[RobK]

I HAVE NO FUCKING IDEA BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE STUPIDEST GRADING SYSTEM IN THE HISTORY OF STUPID GRADING SYSTEMS. I could have been doing terribly scraping up V2s or I could have been doing great cruising V6s but I can't tell because they're still sticking with the gobbledegook letter-vomit non-grading non-system in defiance of any common sense nor functionality. I definitely did some problems, I'm pretty sure I pulled on holds, and I recall that my tennis elbow was a bit sore but not too sore.

In uncharacteristic fashion I'm gonna stick up for the Boardroom here. I like the new grading system. Why do you need to know the grade? It's meaningless anyway. I was flashing 'V8s' at LSD this week. I can tell you they are absolutely not V8. Indoors all you need to know is how problems relate to one another. The hangar don't attach grades at all and the circuits are just relative to one another and IMO it's a much better system. And stops the inevitable arguments of "oh that's never Vx".

[mrjonathanr]

More importantly, Fiend’s rantgame is clearly ending the year with a very strong statement of intent. Looking forward to a witheringly uncompromising follow up in 2024 

I also did some problems/falling off problems at Kelsey Kerridge, The Chapel and The Beacon Kilter board (I love this board!). And got very wet walking round Tryfan today. Self-inflicted; I know

In defence of RobK’s POV, I had no idea what grade the problem on the kilter board were as others chose them all. It made no difference not knowing tbh

[shark]

Thanks Fiend


M.

T

W. 5hr ballache drive back from Devon

T. A few hangs at home Tor. Grim. Bens Few hangs. Felt solid and comfortable holding the foot off starting position on move 3 of the crux section rather than having to climb into it. Tried a different foothold (not much of a foothold really just a place to paste your foot) for the walk through method (instead of the kick) and it worked perfectly. Did it a couple more times including from holding crimp and pocket to connecting foot on niche. Tried from throw but without success. Taped tips up and had many goes trying cross through which I’ve neglected lately and finally got the knack of doing it again and felt steady when I did it. Good overall progress I think towards my goal of getting solid on the whole of the crux section. Physically felt ok at the end of the session. Took dogs for a walk down to Rubicon and felt spent on the way back. Put far more into session than I appreciated. Bath when I got back and fell asleep in it.

T. AM Foundry. Routes with Donnie. Couldn’t climb for toffee. Failed to redpoint a 6b which was more like 6c but still! Gave up early

F.

S

S.

Thought about training last three days but after Thursdays meltdown and then an unexpected boozy night on Saturday at a friend’s thought any training might be counterproductive towards next session on Bens.
Currently thinking of prioritising Bens over training whilst I seem to be making progress and am psyched for it. Next session tomorrow. 
Been caning it with the wine for last couple of months so looking forward to going dry in January and maybe beyond.

[yetix]

Good luck tomorrow Simon!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - regular weights.
Tue - loaded carries outside.
Wed - tired. Lattice edge mixed grips LH/RH (back3/back2, back3/mid2). Bar work.
Thu - right shoulder niggle, no board. Mixed DL and GM: 10x5 110kg, one DL and one GM alternated. Brutal.
Fri - 6x AM session. Side crunch, high pulls, Lattice edge mixed grips.
Sat - thruster.
Sun - boxing bag.
Happy new year to everyone!!!

[Aussiegav]

Monday -
Christmas Day.
Got two 18mm edges from Bowow for Christmas. Solid Australian Jarrah wood. Lovely wood, very smooth and dense. Should be harder to hang than the lattice test edges they are replacing.

Rest day, got virus, felt rubbish - fevers, coughing .

Tuesday

Sickness continues

Wednesday
Still feeling a bit crooked, but improving. Mustered energy to put up new edges and hand a fingerboard session on 18mm edges.
Tried using chalk, holds were desperate to hang. Having dry trips made even harder felt like I was about to dry fire at any point.
Tried no chalk and damp tips, still no improvement.

Did research into Rhino Spit and Friction Labs alcohol free liquid chalk. Decided to try Friction Labs. Not using resin based this time.

Went to Virgin

Strength training

Thursday
Rest


Friday
Easy bouldering mileage session with two sons
30problems over an 45mins, blue and black problems

Saturday
New 18mm edges from Bowow
5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests. Half crimp


Sunday
Strength training on the rings At Virgin Active in Sheffield

[Duma]

M - festivities. Got in the sea briefly.
T - drove home. Was going to climb but all the walls were shut. Couldn't be arsed to fingerboard.
W - eve TCA, 90 min mostly just aimless mooching that confirmed I can't do the things I haven't done. A little better when I went on the moonboard. Working out moves on possible projects. Elbow not great.
T - tired. (Sleep quality and ongoing minor illness rather than yesterday's session)
F - aft TCA, 2 hrs. Still feeling under the weather and uninspired. Some mid 6's on the moonboard and more work on project moves. Golfers elbow doesn't like the moonboard.
S -
S - lunchtime TCA, 90 min. Much better session, repeated 9 blacks, 1 white and 1 blue, all first go except the blue and one of the blacks. Most pleasingly managed another blue that I'd almost written off, first go today.

71.5 kg

[duncan]

Hello keen clubbers.

M - Had my traditional Christmas lurgy. Managed some gentle shoulder stability and hip mobility stuff.
T - Met up with Fiend at an almost deserted VauxWall West, which was nice. Still under-par so did not put my shoes on. A few hip exercises at home.
W - Westway with The Editor. Still a bit bleurgh. Tried hard, fell off a few times on the green 6b+ that csl didn’t flash last week. Did it with one hang eventually so it’s the new project!
T - Walked 10km.
F - Westway bouldering to ‘V2/3’. Also fell off the first move of a blobby V3/4 a few times. Kept to the steeper stuff but nothing remotely hard until I’ve got more used to this style again.
S - Westway with The Lad. His annual visit went pretty well, he was happy and apparently safe belaying me on TR. He did 6/7 routes and I TRed a couple of easy routes as practice for him. Apparently another visit is not out of the question.
S - Westway bouldering. Same kind of session as Friday. Left shoulder felt a bit scrunchy on the blobby V3/4 and sore afterwards.

Easing myself back into bouldering. Aiming to be trying the first 2-3 moves of board style problems fairly soon. Can’t fall from any height and have to be generally careful with practically every body part with this style of climbing, so easy does it.

Attempting to train up a couple more climbing partners. 

[stone]

Got two 18mm edges from Bowow for Christmas. Solid Australian Jarrah wood. Lovely wood, very smooth and dense. Should be harder to hang than the lattice test edges they are replacing.
......Tried using chalk, holds were desperate to hang. Having dry trips made even harder felt like I was about to dry fire at any point.
Tried no chalk and damp tips, still no improvement.

I'm about as far from being a training guru as could be imagined but I think I get effective(ish) hang sessions using our rounded-edged, gloss paint, stairwell at home.
For some things, I don't use chalk (mainly to reduce faff/excuse-potential) 
eg https://my.crimpd.com/workouts/details/63ed48e218aedf7b96ba837d (with one joint of the fingers)
or https://my.crimpd.com/workouts/details/5a530149a7a77700011b2edc (with two joints the fingers)
or for one-handed, two-joints-of-the-fingers, hangs

I do use chalk when I do these (with one joint of the fingers)
https://my.crimpd.com/workouts/details/5d6e7744670a444c0111eb3d

My motivation for gloss paint non-intervention was just miserliness/laziness/reduce_reuse_recycle_mindset. But I justified it to myself that battling that dry-fire and slither was all to the good.

I'm very happy to be told if I'm being an idiot about any of this.

(My training aim is at least as much about injury prevention as anything. My impression is that as I get further into my 50s, ever more care is needed on that front).

[Aussiegav]

i've had some great gains from using this https://my.crimpd.com/workouts/details/5f5ee39c041e798adbdbf8f1  on Crimpd+ (the 5 set version in half crimp), followed by https://my.crimpd.com/workouts/details/5fa0f3f31a426604a128052b using 3 finger open.

prior to swapping to the new edge,i was able to add 2.5kg. but now back to body weight. last night's session did feel a bit easier.