[shark]

12.1

M

T Weighted dead hangs etc on Metolius Edge BWc10, 10 and 10 secs  FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups +12.5kg FC,HC&D 10,10 and 10 sec 3x2 pull ups attempted front levers and assisted one arm undercut hangs/pulls then +20kg? FC,HC and Drag 10, 10 and 10secs +32.5kg fail attempt at 27.5kg but pulled rail off and decked

W

T Weighted deadhangs etc on Metolius Edge BWc10, 10 and 10 secs  FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups +12.5kg FC,HC&D 10,10 and 10 sec 3x2 pull ups attempted front levers and assisted one arm undercut hangs/pulls then +22.5kg FC,HC and Drag 4 secs, 3 secs abd 10 secs. Should have had 2 days rest

F

S

S Weighted deadhangs etc on Metolius Edge BWc10, 10 and 10 secs  FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups Witd leg exercise on pulley attempted front levers and assisted one arm undercut hangs/pulls 15kg FC,HC&D 10,10 and 10 sec 3x2 pull ups then +30kg FC 4 secs, 3 secs abd 2 secs HC 2. Couldn’t hang after that

Put on 5lbs and not even had Christmas dinner yet. Lungs not totally clear yet. Psyched to get in shape. Bring on Sharkathon. Going to go dry in January, possibly longer.

[duncan]

Thanks Simon.


M - Back to El Pati, warmed up bolt-to-bolting Viagraman confirming how close i was on the flash. Redpointed second try after a silly slip the first time. Last day, last go...
T - Drove to somewhere in the badlands north of Paris.
W - Somewhere north of Paris to home. DFDS were very reasonable on discovering we’d booked Dover to Dunkirk rather than Calais to Dover! I doubt RyanAir would be so accommodating. Shoulder stability and leg conditioning exercises on the ferry, I’m sure the extra instability induced by a decent swell made the handstands even more beneficial. 
T - Walked 8km. Slept a lot.
F - Westway with csl. Good power-endurance pyramid from 5c to about 6b+ and back down again. Battered afterwards.
S - Walked a bit. Donated blood. Compulsory festive socialising.
S - Westway with autobelay: 250m of 5c-6a+ aerocap.

... 6b+ at the wall usually translates to 6c+ on rock or a low 7 redpoint.

Bingo!

Good to get Viagraman done before heading home but it was the onsight battle that was the most fun. I might have come away with something harder than 7a if I’d given up on La Muerte... sooner and tried something else. I’m happy I put three days into it even though it was looking unlikely from the outset. Trying a 7a+ or 7b wouldn’t be breaking new ground.

Overall, considering I had a TFCC wrist tweak for the two months before the trip, I was reasonably happy with how I did. Siurana is still marvellous, a good place for a solo mission, and I chatted and climbed with lots of lovely people.

Driving to and from Spain takes it out of you and is probably only worth it for a three week or longer trip. The journey eats most of two days each way and takes me a similar time to recover from. The ambience from the Loire south to Perpignon is great, through Aquitaine, the Auvergne and the Cevennes, but London to Orleans is very dull and goes on and on and on and on....

Plan: write myself a training plan and stick to it. Emphasis on power and power-endurance for the next couple of months for a tbc sport trip in late Feb/March. Keep doing the supportive exercises and hope the hip(s) settle.

[Fultonius]

Seeings as I'm sitting in Schiphol,  right as well update this too...

Monday:

FB warm up. Working through flashing greens (6A-6C). Repeated a white 7A first go. Got a new white 7Aish thing, 2nd go (fluffed flash go). Got tricky green 2nd go. Flashed pink 6c+ and 7A. Worked a white 7A+ for a bit, did all moves but not linked.

All with plenty rest between goes.

Wednesday: Felt strong off the bat. Cruised a few problems, struggled on a pink rockover for a bit. Managed the white 7A+ from Monday. Got close to a pink 6C+ but found it powerful and bunched - anti style! Good one to work. (and confirms that some time on the 45 will day dividends)

Biceps felt overworked early so finish.

Friday: was packed and ready early for travelling, so squeezed in a quick fingerboard session. Fairly unstructured work up to max, with a few max erddort one arm recruitment pulls and single finger max hangs.

Sunday: short session at Beest Boulders. Not feeling 100% (tired). Managed to flash a 6C, got another 3rd go (that I probably should have flashed) and pottered around on a few other things. For arms felt worked from all the big holds and openhanded power climbing.

Merry chrimbo all!

[Fultonius]

Driving to and from Spain takes it out of you and is probably only worth it for a three week or longer trip. The journey eats most of two days each way and takes me a similar time to recover from. The ambience from the Loire south to Perpignon is great, through Aquitaine, the Auvergne and the Cevennes, but London to Orleans is very dull and goes on and on and on and on....

I really wish they would sort out proper, affordable road-train transport  across Europe (as in the trains you can drive onto). So much nicer having your own wheels and transport, and can take a massive chunk of the driving out of the journey...

[shark]

Good to get Viagraman done before heading home but it was the onsight battle that was the most fun. I might have come away with something harder than 7a if…

Was it stiff for the grade…?




Sorry

And well done 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Try to punt less puntacularly than current puntage - actually yes, still punting, but more consistent puntage at a slightly less punticious level.


M - F6a+ (piss, excellent), F6b (piss, very good), F6b+ (piss, very good), F6c+ (piss, great), F6b+ (piss, very good), F6c (piss, great). Quite disorientating change in pace going somewhere with ACTUALLY FUCKING CORRECT GRADES. TE a bit sore at the end but better than end of previous week.
 
T - F6b (fine, fun), F6b+ (fine, fun), F6c (fine, fun), F6c (F6c+, skin of teeth, world class). Another normal day with only one sandbag. TE a bit sore at the end but better than end of previous week.
 
W - F6b+ (stiff, bouldery), F6b+ (fine, burly), F6c (fine, excellent), F6b+ (F6c, cranky and very good), failed on F6c (fine, just careless punting). TE more sore again due to burlier climbing.
 
T - F6b (fine, fun), F6b+ (fine, decent), F6c (fine, great), F6c+ (stiff, thin, techy and cranky, great), F6c+ (fine, mega), F6c (a bit stiff, thin, techy and cranky, great). A proper day. TE a bit sore but less so than previous day.
 
F - F6a+ (stiff, great), F6b+ (good), F6b+ (a bit stiff, great). Failed on F6c (F7a or so, two hard f6c+ sections with a strenny shakeout). Decent half day, pity about the comedy sandbag. TE pretty okay.
 
S - Rest / blood pressure spiking spending hours arguing with O2 that their payment portal not accepting the same Direct Debit I've been paying for a decade was indeed their fault and no i should not be getting harassment texts about missed payments nor having to jump through hoops to chase up their mess.
 
S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx.6 x V2, 8 x V3, 6 x V4, 8 x V5 (4 flash, 3 x 2nd go, 1 x 3rd go), 4 x V6 (3 flash, 1 x 2nd go (silly mistake), tried another 4 that were too hard). Decent session. TE fairly sore after but given the volume, intensity, high humidity and cranky climbing, it seems an okay level of aggravation.


Better, and genuinely enjoyable, week. Only climbing at 80% max of normal capacity but much better than the previous week. Given I'm in shit shape in every area (apart from skin, which was fine), and have had 3 (three) good days sport climbing in the whole year, then the punterdom is not unexpected. It did feel like another, say, year or so of climbing at that sort of slightly reduced capacity could get me back near normal. All things considered the TE was also better than expected, although it is definitely tweaked so I will have to look after that now.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - Lattice edge, San Power edge, bar work, one armers.
Wed - DL from half blocks, singles up to 142 kg. GM 116 kg 5x4. Then 100 kg with pause. Bar work. Yes!
Thu - AM 2x; PM 2x AM session, high pulls. Very short on time.
Fri - board climbing, as per recent weeks.
Sat - Ab side crunch, Pendlay rows, bentover rows. Farmer's static holds.
Sun - boxing bag.
Drank a lot of wine and ate a lot of cow tongue.

[Duma]

Merry Christmas Power Clubbers!
Sounds like a great week and good trip Fiend, impressive number of consecutive days on!
M -
T -  eve TCA, 120 min. Blacks upstairs. Did 10, 1 repeated first go, the other 9 new, including 3 flashes and one second go after knobbing the start move on the flash. Only 7/32 left on this set now which is already a good return for me, and they've only been up two weeks. L golfers still sore, but perhaps marginally less so.
W -
T - binned wall visit, cold still dragging on.
F - managed to get out of work by lunchtime. Little more energy than last week or two. Aft TCA, 120 min. All the new yellows downstairs to warm up, then put more time into the last few blacks, managed 2 more, think maybe one more possible from this set. Then even tried hard on some blues. Often struggle with these, as the hardest set a lot will require a few sessions, and many will be too hard for me. I'm not good at projecting (boulders), and don't really like the hold selection either. Combined with how often TCA reset and the fact that the black and white sets keep me entertained for several weeks each, I often end up not putting any time into much of the blue set that doesn't immediately appeal/seem doable. Anyway, today I did, and got up 2 of them, so that was good. 
S - drive to my folks place. Cold worse overnight.
S - festivities. Cold improved

71.5 kg

[duncan]

Good to get Viagraman done before heading home but it was the onsight battle that was the most fun. I might have come away with something harder than 7a if…

Was it stiff for the grade…?




Sorry

And well done 

Thank you. And don't worry, that joke has been around the block several times already!

Etxauri 6c/+ so soft Siurana 7a? If I'd treated it like a trad. route and properly milked the rests...

[spidermonkey09]

 I remember thinking Viagraman wasn't a rumble, some hard moves in there.
 Edit; misremembering, it was ay mamita I did!

[duncan]

I remember thinking Viagraman wasn't a rumble, some hard moves in there.
 Edit; misremembering, it was ay mamita I did!

¡Ay mamita! is supposedly a bit harder than Viagraman and possibly also harder than Crosta pànic (everyone's favourite soft 5.12 and the current apex of my mature on-sighting). It'd be last of the trio of great ~7as on that wall for me and a target to flash next time I'm there.

[Duma]

it's more sustained (Ay mamita) but I didn't think harder.

Lo dejé to blanco across the way is better than either (though also harder)

[Wellsy]

Monday - Assessment of ability. Strong-ish but not good at climbing at the moment. Need to regrow technical skills. See YYFY post. Great indoor sesh

Tuesday - Depot was resetting Purples so had a good ol session doing loads of Reds. Felt pretty achey in the joints!

Wednesday - Just some lifting at the Hanger

Thursday - Rested

Friday - Hanger indoor session. Did around 17-18 purples and a few reds. Loving just climbing loads

Saturday - Benched up to 80 for 5 for 3 sets. Squatted up to 100 for 5 for 3 sets. Deadlifted 120kgs for 10-8-6-4-2 mixed with the same reps of pullups for time. Tbh was minced by the squats and shouldn't have done the WOD but oh well.

Weight: 80.5... chonk for me :D feeling strong though!