[shark]

11.10

M. Round trip to Southport

T. Tor. Grim. Lungs still heavy. Just me there. Soloed Hubble.  Experimented with walk though move on Bens. Almost got it using a tiny foothold which is tricky to apply pressure on. Reckon my newly broken in Crawes helped a bit. Paul reckoned he just pasted his foot but can’t remember where.

W.

T. Tor. Lungs better but still not right. Core not 100% recovered from Tuesday so couldn’t really work walk through. Joined by three friendly lads from London. Reverted to original kick sequence and gratified to climb from throw to setting up for cross through twice. First time was particularly smooth. Bodes well. Need to put in some work on cross through now to get that back up to speed again so hopefully can link then get solid on the crux section from throw to successfully crossing through to reach out to the rib.

F.

S.

S. AM PM Ergo FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs BW 3x3 pull-ups supinated one arm locks on half pad edge  foot-on and a bar foot-off Fromt lever attempts    +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10’secs 3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag (decent quality this time) 17.5kg 3x1 10, 10 and 10 secs +25kg FC 8 and 7 secs HC 6 and 5 secs. Good scores

S. Drive to Devon

Lost a couple of lbs. Still sniffly. Didn’t feel psyched or well enough to do endurance training. Will just be fingerboarding next week. Might even start running if lungs feel up to it.

[Fultonius]

Nice on Shark, sounds like a wee bit of progress there?

I had a good week of focussed morning strength sessions.

Tuesday: Build up to 3rm pull ups +20kg. 24kg for 2.5 reps. (Upper body strength is a weakness of mine)

C4hp finger training* 60s on moon board, 3 mins rest x 6  set, then a longer rest and repeated for another 4 sets. 10 sets in total before losing power.  Stretching in between.

Bench 40kg x 8reps x 3sets

20kg shoulder press x 10 x 1
30kg x 8 x 1

Wed: 30 mins yoga

Thursday:   3min then 4min arc/light enduro S :slapskin struggling, motivation struggling. Felt hard work.

Weighted pull ups. +14kg x 4, +20kg x 3 x 3 (felt hard, struggling on last rep) maybe need to build in better with progressive warm up?

Weighted pulls on bm2k. 14kg x 3s on bottom rung. +20kg big rung, then same on bot rung x 3s x 3 reps.

Moonboard (25degree) C4HP Fingers 45s x 10, 3min rest between sets. Feels like this is a good base strength builder - going to stick with it for 3-4 weeks.

Saturday: Ratho general climbing session. Classic onsighting pyramid. 6a, 6b, 6b, 6c, 7a+ (bit of a fight!), 7b+ (hardest O/S to date, inside or out - suspect it was soft?), 7b (not long enough rest, fell off a high crux at around 4/5ths of the route), 7a, 6c, 6c.  Great session considering I hadn't slept that well and I'm in strength phase.

* https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/blog-2/2022/8/29/simplest-finger-strength-training-the-limits-of-the-fingerboard#:~:text=One%20proposed%20solution%2C%20turn%20off%20the%20lights.

[Duma]

M - eve TCA, 90 min, blacks. 7 more done including 2 flashes and a few I tried last week. Good session. Elbow rehab.
T - Elbow rehab.
W - eve, TCA, 60 min, mostly moonboard. Repeated a 7A and managed my 7A+ project, psyched. Did a black I'd been working too. Elbow Rehab.
T - out with work
F - lots of mates round for most excellent dinner and shenanigans.
S - recovery
S - aft TCA, 120 min, with mates who were visiting so repeated a lot of stuff. 2 whites, 5 blacks, and 2 blues, all first go or quick which was gratifying. Also 3 new blacks, including 2 flashes, and more work on harder ones. Elbow rehab.

71 kg

Good week L golfers still sore though

[duncan]

Solid session Fultonius

Might even start running if lungs feel up to it.

Why?

M - Had a good working go on La Muerte del Sponsor with David. Managed to do the technical crux a couple of times and the whole of the section from the half-way rest to just below the top groove but this was touch and go. Overall felt a fair bit weaker than in March. Needless to say David flashed it.
T - Another session on La Muerte del Sponsor. Still felt very under-powered and couldn't get close to the moves into the final groove which had gone very smoothly in the spring. Left hip seems to have seized up again, possibly as a result of the long car journey down, and I couldn't use my previous beta, which needs normal flexibility. A different beta would require quite a bit more power. All a bit frustrating. Led Keine Kraft (6b+) which was entirely appropriately named given I failed to onsight it!
W - Rest day, some hip stretches and other leg conditioning.
T - Valtònyc (6b+), a new one above Tant se’n fot and probably easier than that route, and Volta i volta 6c, a slippery mess which I must have done before but don’t seem to have recorded. Back to La Muerte... for one more go at the top moves to see if there was a low power/low flexibility beta. Couldn’t find one.
F - El Pati with Robbie, warmed-up on the little 6a+ then had an onsight go on Viagraman, everyone’s favourite soft 7a. Fought like a bastard all the way to the final hard move in the crozzle at the top but made a few minor tactical errors, especially not milking the kneebar, and had run out of gas by this point. The resulting lob was quite spectacular and elicited a rare squeal from me. Had another go but didn't have the beans to even get close to my previous high point.
S - Completely battered. Rest day. Walked up to Montsant in the late afternoon which was glorious.
S - Inadvertent rest day. Arranged to climb with someone who insisted on going to Saut de la Reina Mora despite my concern it would be too hot. It was too hot, and I’m someone who likes the warm. Person also insisted on warming-up on a bouldery 6c. I held their ropes for a couple more routes then pleaded heat stroke (only slight exaggeration) and had a lie-down in the shade, a couple of paracetamol, and several mugs of tea. Somewhat revived bumped into a lad who had been lobbing off the route just left of Viagraman at the same time as me. We arranged to swap belays over at El Pati. Waited over at the base of the route until nearly dark but he never showed up!

Up and down but it's still lovely to be out here. One more day then a long drive home.

... I will have a play on La Muerte… shortly to see where I am. I suspect it’s going to be messy.

It was. Linking the bottom section through the crux and then the steeper middle section were always going to be challenges given my lack of recent sport or bouldering but I thought more working might compensate for being weak. Being unable to use my previous beta at the top due to inflexibility was a bit frustrating particularly as I'd been working on this in the run-up to the trip.

Off to Siurana tomorrow, long journey and will need to be careful to not let [my hip] stiffen up again.

Epic fail. 

Will be interesting to see if the better numbers hanging off a strip of wood translate into climbing any better.

They don't (in isolation). I need more power, not just static finger strength. I need to think about how to achieve this now falling any distance at a bouldering wall is out of the question. Suggestions welcome... Gimme Kraft!

[Fultonius]

@Duncan, if your static pull numbers are quite good, then maybe get on the "overcoming isometrics" bandwagon?

I've starting thinking more about how "actively" I'm pulling with my fingers when warming up, doing strength training etc. Too early to tell, but I like the theory...

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, doubles x3.
Tue - BM pockets; 4x AM session.
Wed - power clean singles at 95%. Pendlay rows.
Thu - AM as usual; PM Lattice edge, BW and + 2,5kg. Pull ups.
Fri - track riding. 5x AM session, back work, high pulls.
Sat - weights and stairs outside: 2°, starry sky, best gym ever.
Sun - board climbing, long links.
The change is here.

[Aussiegav]

Season Beatings every one 


Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight +2.5 repeaters. 1 minute rests.
3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight +2.5kg repeaters. 1 minute rests.
Increase in weight added. 

Tuesday

Boulder Mileage at the Depot Sheffield. 20 reds in an hour. Flashed all bar 3.

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday
Rest


Friday

5 sets of 3 body weight +2.5 repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7sec hangs on 12mm edges.
Body weight less 7.5kg assistance

3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight +2.5kg repeaters. 1 minute rests.



Saturday
Rest

Sunday
The Depot Sheffield
Campus latches on 18mm edge
6 on the left, 6 on the right. 6doubles

20min Project session x2 on the 25degree hardwood board.

Set and worked two problems. Felt around 6b to 6c?? 
Sent the first one by the end of the 20min block. GavP001 (if anyone is interested to try)
Basic pulling on crimps. Blue footholds

Second one I didn’t manage to send in the 20mins. GavP002. (If anyone is interested in trying). Big moves on big pinches. Black footholds.

Joined Virgin Active so I can train general strength & fitness with the wife and one of the kids.
Did some rope climbs and functional fitness/strength training.

[shark]

Might even start running if lungs feel up to it.

Why?

Mainly to be fitter on walk ins. It’s also something I can do as an exercise during sharkathon on ‘rest’ days and I can do it with the dogs on the eastern moors.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Try to punt less puntacularly than current puntage - hahaha fuck off no.

M - Sport climbing. F6a+ (F6a, piss), F6b (F6b/+, quite nice), failed on F6b+ (F6c+ or so). Pretty bollox.
 
T - F6b (okay, pokey), F6b+ (fun jamming), F6c (kinda awkward but okay), F6b+ (F6c, tricky but great), failed on F6c (F7a / Font 6C). Better but still bollox grades.
 
W - F6b (great), F6a+ (okay), failed on F6b+ (F6c / shit bolts), and F6c (F7a and shit bolts). One good route but bollox grades and bollox bolts. Tennis elbow a bit grumbly.
 
T - F6a+ (great fun), F6b (thin and hard), F6b+ (committing and hard), F6b+ (F6b/+ and good fun), F6c (F6c+, utter battle, satisfying), F6b+ (F6c, thin and hard). Actual proper day. Tennis elbow sore.
 
F - F6b (steady and fine), F6b+ (F6c and some, desperate, but good), F6b (excellent). TE definitely pretty sore. Middle sandbag bullshit was far too much.
 
S - F6a+ (very nice), F6b (excellent). TE still pretty sore and worrying although style of climbing and lack of sandbags better.
 
S - Active rest. A fair bit of walking. TE better through the day.


Punting week of punterdom with confidence-sodomising RNG grading and the added bonus of worsening my tennis elbow not benefitting it. Some of the punting was mildly enjoyable in a punty sort of way.

[Duma]

Where are you Fiend?

[Fiend]

Mallorca. Last minute cancellation / place available on a cheap Lancashire Climbing And Caving Club meet / trip.

[SA Chris]

Nice, interested to know which crags on each day?

[Duma]

Next Q: what's RNG grading?

[Dingdong]

Random number generator grading?

[Duncan Disorderly]

CBFA Anymore... Club

M: CBFA
T: CBFA
W: Hangar - Purples, Reds and the Odd White
T: CBFA
F: Hangar - More Purples, Reds and the Odd White - Ended up at a party til 5am 
S: CBFA and Hungover!
S: Moonboard - 2019 @ 25 Degrees - 5 x 5+ - 6A+ to warmup, tried some projects and got demoralised so repeated a soft 7A I'd done a few months back and a couple of 6B - 6B+'s... Sort of fun.

Really demoralised - sore back, elbows and knees (WTF!)... Guessing it's just the fallout from the lurgy and midwinter blues - Christmas and then a quick blast to Tenerife for some puntering and surfing in the sun should sort it out. Just going to keep going through the motions til then and put together some kind of plan of action come January...

[Fiend]

Yeah DongDing's right. Roll a D6 for the number, halved D6 for the letter, and flip a coin for the plus or not.

SAChris can do a proper report if people might be interested??

Duncan sorry everythings a big CBFA but good effort on the 5am party - getting old disgracefully!!