[Aussiegav]

Longing for some sport club.
Can’t get psyched for grit now days nor dealing with the cold. #Soft.

Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight +1.25kg repeaters. 1 minute rests.
3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight +1.25kg repeaters. 1 minute rests.

Tuesday
Back still sore. Affecting movement and can’t pull hard with right arm.

4minON4minOFF. 4 sets.  Moderate/high levels of pump.

Weights.
Chest flyes 1x8 7kg. 3x8 10kg
Shoulder raises front and lateral 3x10 7kg
4x3 pistol squats

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 7.5kg assist. These were max effort.
3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.



Friday
Rest

Saturday

5x3 jumping pull ups
Campus latches. 3 each side then doubles. All on the 18mm edge

 20min projecting. 2 purples, 1 yellow. Managed to do none.

Sunday
60min peloton endurance.

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible - kinda derailed. Take care of niggles - trying but still niggling. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab - no, worse than last week. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection - no. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally try to get up a boulder problem or maybe two - kinda scraped up one half-decent thing.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - n/a. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - seemed to be okay this week, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - yes but weak, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - 1.


M - Gym. Misc conditioning / recruitment. Weak as ever. Elbow rehab. Knee rehab. Stretching.

T -  Rest. Nausea bout overnight. Brief walk. Random aches around knee including on outside. TE sore.

W - Rest. Brief walk. Legs quite tired. Elbow rehab. TE sore.

T - Pulled on a few holds. Weak.  TE vaguely sore but no worse.

F - Ill-ish. Pulled on a few holds. Slightly less weak. TE vaguely sore but no worse.

S - Ill-ish. Warming up bouldering @ Rabbit Warren. Also failed on Well Brown again, but no worse than last spring when I had golfer's elbow but fresher conditions. Energiser Bunny bailed from the lip (before inevitably cruising it), stumbled on the mats, knocked me flying into the fallen tree pile, and I whacked my lower back on a sharp rock. Decent walk. Knee vaguely sore. TE vaguely sore but no worse.

S - Ill-ish. Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. This time the cute dog to cuddle was Bean, rather than LingLing. 10 x V1-3, 3 x V2-4, 10 V3-5 (7 flashed, 1 x 2nd go, 2 x 3rd go). Body just one giant creak, but managed to fight a bit once eventually warmed up. TE sore (a bit more than previous, tougher, and consecutive sessions), knee a bit sore and generally unstable-feeling, impacted lower back only mildly sore, reappearance of toe corn sore, throat sore.


Another mixed / mediocre week, ably assisted by Manflu3: The Reunwakening, and a bonus nausea bout. Did manage to keep active and see some of the nice weather, but still climbing rubbish on the grit, and still weak on any measure I can find. Niggles all feeling niggly including tennis elbow after rest / rehab days WHATEVER.


Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible. Take care of niggles. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally try to get up a boulder problem or maybe two.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[shark]

Thanks Gav

11.13

M. Slept till 11.30am - didn’t even hear the others leave the house!

T. Darro. Guidebook description looked promising but it failed to highlight that there was a massive  noisy working quarry below that left a thin veneer of dust on the crags. We all did a 40m 6c+ then moved to a sector that reeked of goat shit. Steve did a 7b that was really 7c and was covered in bird shit and had wasps nest. We bailed and went back to Cogollos. I flashed the mega 7b that I’d worked on Sunday. Had to dig deep on the first hard section when I got pumped but the other two hard bits went down easier than when I dogged it.

W. Cahorras, Diabolo sector. Could immediately see this wasn’t my style but dug deep on the 7a and flashed it then did similarly on a 7a+ so pretty happy about that.

T. Claggy all morning but lifted in afternoon and was sunny. Went to Campana sector of Cogollos. Fell off on a 7a without a warm up but then flashed the 7a classic overhanging corner I’d fallen of on the first day. Tried a 7a+ which had a verdonesque section but the crux was nails so dogged past it. Quick go on the initial 7a but was too tired so backed off.

F. Rain. Rosario en route to airport. Steve and Ed got stuck in at the Chilam Balam cave. Weather was grim and limited options for me which I would have been too tired for so sat it out. They did an 8c and 7c respectively.

S. Beautiful day. Eventually got out mid afternoon. Walked up to Paradise Wall at Stanage with Sonia and dogs with a view to an hours soloing. Discovered I'd left climbing shoes in the car. Couldn't be arsed to get them with such limited time so had a mooch and walk. Rising Sun get together in evening as Seb is 60. 

S. Hideous weather. Ergo FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs BW 3x3 pull-ups supinated one arm locks on half pad edge  foot-on and a bar foot-off   +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10’secs 3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x1 9,7 and 8 secs +25kg FC 5 and 5 secs HC 3 and 3 secs. Not too far off the pace. Eve. Snow shovelling. 

Got my shit together in last few days and climbed well and tried hard. Still a grade down on this time last year in Datca but I had spent 3 weeks in RRG and was much less heavy.

Will post more extensively about the area and options around Malaga separately. Keen to go back potentially late january either based near Loja/Rossario or Reguchillo/Jaen. Expressions of interest welcome..   

[Duma]

T. I flashed the mega 7b that I’d worked on Sunday.

T. then flashed the 7a classic overhanging corner I’d fallen of on the first day.

You know this isn't what anyone else means by flashed right?

[spidermonkey09]

Do I get the claim the flash on Spare Rib yesterday having had a full session on it in 2021?

Sounds like a decent trip, I'd be interested in more info about the are.

[Duma]

Sounds like good end to the trip Simon!

M - eve, run, 5k, flat, pavement, forgot to time it.
T - calves much better this time. Eve, TCA, 120 min. Long warm up doing most of the new oranges downstairs then moonboard. No new ticks but new high point falling off last move of current 7A+ project and repeated a few things.
W -
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. More oranges then moonboard again. Gave the 7A+ project a break, repeated a 7A and did two new ones though. L elbow sore.
F -
S - Garn Clochdy, esoteric S Wales grit. Had doubts driving out through the freezing fog, but popped out into glorious sunshine above a lovely inversion. Frozen bog meant the walk in was less arduous than feared too. Great couple of hours, highlights were brilliant arete of The Bell Free 6B, and the eliminate direct on it For Whom The Bell Tolls 7A. Lots of good easier stuff too. There's a few harder lines here but they were either frosted top outs or pretty uninspiring lowballs. L golfers sore still. Out out for the climbers party in the eve, top night.
S - recovery from festivities.

71.5 kg

[shark]

[Sigh]. I did it first go

[Will Hunt]

I did an E6 at the weekend, cleanly top-roped while pulling the slack through the grigri. I believe that counts as a successful trad ascent nowadays.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - TBDL, push press.
Tue - high pulls, GM 5x5 110kg. Quick session while fixing new bike's fairings.
Wed - board climbing, sub par. Bad skin, tired, did 7/8 to top.
Thu - AM 2x; PM DL from half blocks, singles at 120kg. At the 7th set I felt like I had a double in me. Did 10. 8th set again 10. I truly am the greatest. Assisted one armers.
Fri - boxing bag, French ball, fast ball.
Sat - AM 3x; PM farmer's static holds.
Sun - stairs, hill sprints, back work, high pulls.

[Stabbsy]

Will post more extensively about the area and options around Malaga separately. Keen to go back potentially late january either based near Loja/Rossario or Reguchillo/Jaen. Expressions of interest welcome..

Did you get any more info about the access situation at Loja while you were out there? Now there's a crag I'd love to go back to!

[Nibile]

W. Cahorras, Diabolo sector. Could immediately see this wasn’t my style but dug deep on the 7a and flashed it then did similarly on a 7a+ so pretty happy about that.

If it's Cahorros crag in the outskirts of Granada it's infamous for its stern grading. When I was studying there, the rule was of a two full grades gap, 7b for 8a. It was a tradition that dated back to the first developers of the area.
Beautiful place.

[slab_happy]

Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible - kinda derailed. Take care of niggles - trying but still niggling. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab - no, worse than last week. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection - no. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally try to get up a boulder problem or maybe two - kinda scraped up one half-decent thing.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - n/a. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - seemed to be okay this week, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - yes but weak, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - 1.


M - Gym. Misc conditioning / recruitment. Weak as ever. Elbow rehab. Knee rehab. Stretching.

T -  Rest. Nausea bout overnight. Brief walk. Random aches around knee including on outside. TE sore.

W - Rest. Brief walk. Legs quite tired. Elbow rehab. TE sore.

T - Pulled on a few holds. Weak.  TE vaguely sore but no worse.

F - Ill-ish. Pulled on a few holds. Slightly less weak. TE vaguely sore but no worse.

S - Ill-ish. Warming up bouldering @ Rabbit Warren. Also failed on Well Brown again, but no worse than last spring when I had golfer's elbow but fresher conditions. Energiser Bunny bailed from the lip (before inevitably cruising it), stumbled on the mats, knocked me flying into the fallen tree pile, and I whacked my lower back on a sharp rock. Decent walk. Knee vaguely sore. TE vaguely sore but no worse.

S - Ill-ish. Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Shartson. This time the cute dog to cuddle was Bean, rather than LingLing. 10 x V1-3, 3 x V2-4, 10 V3-5 (7 flashed, 1 x 2nd go, 2 x 3rd go). Body just one giant creak, but managed to fight a bit once eventually warmed up. TE sore (a bit more than previous, tougher, and consecutive sessions), knee a bit sore and generally unstable-feeling, impacted lower back only mildly sore, reappearance of toe corn sore, throat sore.


Another mixed / mediocre week, ably assisted by Manflu3: The Reunwakening, and a bonus nausea bout. Did manage to keep active and see some of the nice weather, but still climbing rubbish on the grit, and still weak on any measure I can find. Niggles all feeling niggly including tennis elbow after rest / rehab days WHATEVER.


Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible. Take care of niggles. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally try to get up a boulder problem or maybe two.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

Oh shit, I forgot to ask how your back was doing! Very glad to hear it's only mildly sore.

[shark]

Did you get any more info about the access situation at Loja while you were out there? Now there's a crag I'd love to go back to!

I was keen to go but lost out on that one in the daily crag haggling. From what it says in the new guide the main sector Zorreros’Baja is deequipped but the rest is in so still quite a lot to go at.

[shark]

If it's Cahorros crag in the outskirts of Granada it's infamous for its stern grading. When I was studying there, the rule was of a two full grades gap, 7b for 8a. It was a tradition that dated back to the first developers of the area.
Beautiful place.

That’s it. Yes a lovely spot. The crag we went to was above a very narrow walkway by the river. The grades weren’t as stern as that but on a par with Peak Limestone I’d say,

[Dingdong]

Monday:
- Rest

Tuesday
- One arm shrug lifts +15kg - 6 reps x 3 sets

- Pinch lifts 25kg - 4 reps x 4 sets

- French contrast training:
    - 45kg pull-ups x3
    - unweighted explosive pull-ups x3
    - 35kg pull-ups x3
    - banded explosive pull-ups x3
5 minutes rest x 3 sets.

- Board sesh on school 50 working x-pinch, 2 moves left to do and links coming along

- Shoulder rotations prone 12.5kg 8 reps x 3 sets

- face pulls banded 4 reps x 4 sets

Wednesday:

Mossatrocity, did the stand first go and then scraped off the top hold from the sitter, skin and body wasn’t rested enough clearly, bad tactics.

Thursday:
- rest

Friday:
- rest

Saturday:
- warmed up for moss and then went and spotted a friend on west side, sadly this meant I cooled down too much, went to moss and ended up going through skin in the same place as before, really bad tactically to be honest. Saved by the fact the weather is bad now so forced to regrow skin

Sunday:
- one arm engagement ISOs - 10 second shrug hangs with 15kg added.

- 20mm edge lifts 4 reps x 8 sets - left hand 60kg, right hand 55kg (slightly injured A2 still)

- arnold press, 10kg as I don’t have heavier dumbells at home so did it in one set of 12 reps

- TRX pushups, IYT and Round IYTs

- Nordic hamstring curls 3 reps x 4 sets

- Copenhagen planks - 45 second holds each side x 4 sets (these were absolutely desperate, I can only begin to imagine what my forehead veins looked like

- wrist curls x 60 10kg

[duncan]

Simon, the Jaen area has interested me for some time and late Jan potentially works. Depends how I get on in Siurana over the next couple of weeks. I'll await to see if your report suggests Rosario has anything for the punter.

Nible, Cahorros sounds a bit like Montanejos, which had an absurd / different system of grades a few years ago. There has been some upgrading to bring it closer into line with the rest of Spain but it's a bit inconsistent and still very much not Chullilia, in the lower numbers at least. The climbing is great if you can put your ego to one side.

M - Westway with Bilbo. Hip and back still very creaky, so avoided the fall practice. Warmed up (?) with some fingerboarding and the usual shoulder conditioning. Led some 6b+s.
T - Wrist rehab./wrist extensors: reverse curls, front and side lifts, palm down. Shoulder conditioning. Cautious leg/hip conditioning: frog squats, side kick stretches,
W - Westway with Bilbo again. Easy leading, hips improving so took a few falls with no ill effects.
T - Legs/Hips conditioning and flexibility. Fingerboard pick-ups: 10mm x 31kg.
F - Legs/Hips conditioning and flexibility: full session with high box-steps, single leg and frog squats, side kicks. Shoulder conditioning.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: 3 finger crimp 10mm x 31kg. Legs/Hips conditioning and flexibility.
S - Ill. Nothing other than a few hip stretches.

A decent training week. The various aches and pains all seem to be at the 80% better stage which is when I need to climb outside. I’ve worked hard on the hip conditioning and, guess what, it feels much better. Off to Siurana tomorrow, long journey and will need to be careful to not let it stiffen up again. Good timing on the tweaks, fitness is not great currently, and weight seems to be mysteriously about 3kg more than usual but 6b+ at the wall usually translates to 6c+ on rock or a low 7 redpoint. Will be interesting to see if the better numbers hanging off a strip of wood translate into climbing any better.

[Rocksteady]

6b+ at the wall usually translates to 6c+ on rock or a low 7 redpoint. Will be interesting to see if the better numbers hanging off a strip of wood translate into climbing any better.

Interesting, that is almost exactly the relationship I have with Westway grades and outdoor grades.

[csl]

As a 3rd data point I’ve always thought the same - WW feels about 1 letter grade less than the equivalent outside.

The Reach on the other hand…