[sjw]

Today, at A Hundred Bananas, we were approached by the landowner who asked if we were aware that we were climbing on his land. I explained that we were of the understanding that access had been okayed with the owner of the house above the boulder, to which he said that the boundary line is the wall which intersects the boulder, so although it tops out above the wall, the main area underneath the boulder is actually his land and he hadn't been contacted about climbing there.

Obviously we apologised for our ignorance on the situation and offered to leave, but he said it was fine for us to stay and climb. His main concern appeared to be whether he would be liable for any injuries sustained on his land. I've taken his number to pass on to the BMC rep to contact him about it.

He seemed friendly and reasonable, I just thought it would be worth making people aware about it. We had assumed that access was agreed, especially as there's no mention of it on ukc even though it's clearly on private land.

[spidermonkey09]

Unsurprising news, amazed it didn't take longer for him to become aware. Well done for getting his number.

[Bonjoy]

Good work SJW. Textbook way to deal with this kind of challenge. I wish everyone did this.
Is it Mick J you are passing number to? By all means pass to me as well. Thanks.

[sjw]

Good work SJW. Textbook way to deal with this kind of challenge. I wish everyone did this.
Is it Mick J you are passing number to? By all means pass to me as well. Thanks.

I'll pm you his details, thank you.

[User deactivated.]

Sounds positive. 'Pipeline' and other potential problems on the 'Wave Block' may have a future after all! 

[Bonjoy]

I had a chat with the owner.
As you say Simon he's a decent and reasonable chap.
His position is that he's okay with people climbing on the block but has requested people call ahead and inform him if they intend to visit. I will update the RAD and UKC with details.
I'm sending over some information which should help allay any liability concerns, and will enquire whether he's okay with climbing on the Pipeline boulder.

[spidermonkey09]

Good news for now. Thanks Jon!

[Bonjoy]

I've had a good discussion with the owner now and agreed some access arrangements, which are aimed at allowing access while minimising the chance of better access leading to a shitshow which would quickly result in a ban.
Here's the new RAD entry:
The majority of the crag is open access being owned by Bradford Council. The Hundred Eyes and Pipeline boulders however are within privately owned woods.

The owner Paul has agreed to allow climbing on his land with the proviso that anyone wishing to climb there call ahead on 0-7-8-7-9-6-8-8-1-4-1 to let him know. Due to the proximity of the houses it has been agreed that the Pipeline boulder may only be visited midweek.

Extreme care needs to be taken when accessing these blocks that no damage is caused to the fence or wall.

Continued access is very much dependant on climbers not becoming a nuisance to the owner and residents who value the peaceful unspoiled nature of the woods. With this in mind, as part of the access agreement it is requested that climbers do not post content relating to the Hundred Eyes or Pipeline boulders on social media or put in print media. Climb descriptions and logged ascents on UKC are fine, but otherwise the less publicity the better. Keeping things low key also means no dogs and no after dark climbing with lamps.

These are really special boulders and it would be great if this arrangement could work out, so please do stick to the agreement, and don't succumb to the temptation to spray about it on Insta.

[Dingdong]

Amazing work, nice one Jon!! 

[SA Chris]

Good work Bonj. Worth suggesting keeping group numbers to a minimum, and if there are people at those boulders going elsewhere?

[spidermonkey09]

If people are following the arrangement, then theres no chance of arriving and finding people there unexpectedly, cause people will have rung the number beforehand to get permission.

[SA Chris]

True i guess, worth suggesting cap on group size though?

[Bradders]

I've already added that to the crag description on UKC.

[sherlock]

I've had a good discussion with the owner now and agreed some access arrangements, which are aimed at allowing access while minimising the chance of better access leading to a shitshow which would quickly result in a ban.
Here's the new RAD entry:
The majority of the crag is open access being owned by Bradford Council. The Hundred Eyes and Pipeline boulders however are within privately owned woods.

The owner Paul has agreed to allow climbing on his land with the proviso that anyone wishing to climb there call ahead on 0-7-8-7-9-6-8-8-1-4-1 to let him know. Due to the proximity of the houses it has been agreed that the Pipeline boulder may only be visited midweek.

Extreme care needs to be taken when accessing these blocks that no damage is caused to the fence or wall.

Continued access is very much dependant on climbers not becoming a nuisance to the owner and residents who value the peaceful unspoiled nature of the woods. With this in mind, as part of the access agreement it is requested that climbers do not post content relating to the Hundred Eyes or Pipeline boulders on social media or put in print media. Climb descriptions and logged ascents on UKC are fine, but otherwise the less publicity the better. Keeping things low key also means no dogs and no after dark climbing with lamps.

These are really special boulders and it would be great if this arrangement could work out, so please do stick to the agreement, and don't succumb to the temptation to spray about it on Insta.

Great work but why do I feel so pessimistic?

[User deactivated.]

Great work but why do I feel so pessimistic?

Probably the recent Churnet fuck up...

I've already sent the news to a few friends who don't use UKC or any climbing forums but who might go to Panorama. These people could quite easily have gone to try Hundred Bananas completely unaware of the new requirements. I'd suggest anyone local should do similar.

[spidermonkey09]

Great work but why do I feel so pessimistic?

Probably the recent Churnet fuck up...

I've already sent the news to a few friends who don't use UKC or any climbing forums but who might go to Panorama. These people could quite easily have gone to try Hundred Bananas completely unaware of the new requirements. I'd suggest anyone local should do similar.

Given its not in a guide, I still don't understand how people can possibly go to try it without using UKC...instagram posts don't exactly include drop pins on problems do they?

Thats kind of beside the point though, good thinking.

[User deactivated.]

Some people use 27 crags, which hasn't been updated.

[Bonjoy]

I'd already put a request fir small group sizes on the RAD.
Might add a small tag to the fence with access info on it if it seems required.

[Bradders]

Some people use 27 crags, which hasn't been updated.

Good shout, now sorted.

The other place is the Unknown Stones topo, Will if you're reading can that be updated?

[Will Hunt]

The guide hasn't been updated since the latest developments and still just refers to there being a good 7A+ over the fence on private land. I'll do an update (might need to wait till Paul's back from holiday).