[duncan]

Expecting tales of the glorious conditions on Friday and Saturday. Or all week if you’re in Granada.

M - Shoulders conditioning to warm-up (Handstands, side planks, press-ups, lock-offs). Fingerboard hangs: 4 finger crimp a 10mm edge for a few seconds; 3 finger crimp on a 14mm edge for 10 seconds. Last week was not an outlier. 
T - Westway with Patrick. Led about 10 very easy routes, mostly for falling practice. This was fine at the time but my back and hip stiffened up considerably after.
W - Shoulder conditioning. Wrist extensor rehab.: reverse curls, palm down side and front raises. Hip as stiff as a sheet of glass.
T - Fingerboard: another solid session on 10 and 14mm edges. Hip creaking.
F - Shoulders and wrists.
S - Westway autobelay: 375m of 5c-6a+ up and down in 100 minutes. Hip is still stiff and sore but climbing doesn't aggravate it too much. Long kicks sideways, frogging, and high steps are all currently out though.
S - Shoulders and wrists.

Tiresome news: hip has crapped out again.
Good news: basic training is going well and wrist feels much stronger.
Excellent news: I’ve cadged lifts to and from Spain and negotiated the parenting so will be in Cornudella from about the 6th to the 18th December. Give me a shout if you're going to be in the general area. I’ll be taking it gently to start with as it's five months since I last sport climbed (not counting trad. with bolts in the Verdon) so will have plenty of time to belay you on your proj!

Plan: bouldering on a rope. Outside, if the weather/partner/health/child-care align.

[Duma]

Parenting this weekend so no reports of cosmic connies from me. Hope hip improves quickly Duncan.

M -
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. Blacks and blues,  did 3 of the more technical (read: easier) blues, 1 black, and bit of progress on another black.
W - meant to run but had to make do with speed walk back from garage, still 5k though.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min. Moonboard, repeated a few 6's then managed the 7A+ I'd had my eye on pretty quick. Worked out the moves on another but faded before I could seal the deal. Had enough left in me to finish off another blue though.
F -
S - pm, TCA, 90 min. Blacks and blues, only did 2 blues but progress on 5 other problems L elbow not great.
S - lunch, TCA, 90 min. More blacks and blues, no new progress on yesterday's problems but managed a new blue upstairs and repeated a blue and one of the trickier whites first go. Elbow not great.

71.5 kg

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible - kinda overall. Take care of niggles - overall no, due to hacking. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab - a bit but need to do more. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection - no. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally a bit of grit trad, or bouldering if too cold - got outside but felt regressive.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - reasonable, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - only a very brief session, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - once, stretching x 3 - yes.
MTG / LTG - stay active / climbing active enough to slow the physical decline.


M - Active rest / moronic injury recovery sabotage - hacking and mud and turf in a damp quarry. Tennis elbow flare-up.

T -  Active rest - Some walking. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Stretching. A vaguely sensible day for a change.

W - Indigestion. Active rest - a bit of digging and a bit of sawing. Elbow less aggravated than with hacking.

T - Indigestion. Active rest - Indoor bouldering warm-up @AW. 15 V0-4. Elbow rehab. Stretching session.

F - Active rest - a bit of walking, a bit of smearing - strained toe reappeared a bit on this, tiny bit of gym conditioning. Stretching session.

S - Sort of bouldering @ Earl Crag. A few easy warm-ups and some failed attempts at mid-high 6s. Struggled to keep muscles warm enough and skin cool enough - little spring and little burl available. Tennis elbow and indeed most of right elbow area sore.

S - Sort of bouldering @ Wharncliffe. Some failed attempts on mid-high 6s. Less cold so body moving better, although this didn't translate to getting up problems. Tennis elbow slightly less sore.


Demoralising week. The tale of glorious conditions is basically climbing as shit as I ever have on grit. Nothing to do except bury head in sand and pretend it will all be fine and plodding on with rehab and indoor volume will magically add up to slow the decline.


Next week STG: Keep climbing volume level consistent and sensible. Take care of niggles. Try to motivate myself for more stretching / rehab. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally try to get up a boulder problem or maybe two.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - GM session. Good.
Tue - board climbing after two weeks. Refined feet beta. Good links on current project.
Wed - various weights, very short on time.
Thu - AM as usual; PM clean and push, DL, fastest 2xBW ever done.
Fri - Pendlay rows; GM with pause. Bar work.
Sat - boxing bag, freezing cold.
Sun - dumbbells weights: high pulls, bentover rows, curls, goblet squat and press, press.

[Fultonius]

Power Club

Mon - GM session. Good.
Tue - board climbing after two weeks. Refined feet beta. Good links on current project.
Wed - various weights, very short on time.
Thu - AM as usual; PM clean and push, DL, fastest 2xBW ever done.
Fri - Pendlay rows; GM with pause. Bar work.
Sat - boxing bag, freezing cold.
Sun - dumbbells weights: high pulls, bentover rows, curls, goblet squat and press, press.

After your post about the number of days in a row you'd down some form of training, I cautiously spy your posts, always wondering... "will this be the week". Luckily that day never comes.

Fiend. I know magic bullets are what you want, not advice. But one thing that's massively improved my rate of injury is remembering that any manual work, DIY, yoga IS NOT A FUCKING COMPETITION. Listen to your body, let the tools do the work. Let someone less injury prone do the work... Buy a mini digger.

I know it's not what you want to hear now, but it may help in future....

[Aussiegav]

Monday -
5 sets of 3  repeaters. Body weight +1.25kg. Around 88kg total.  1 minute rests.
 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.


Tuesday
5x3 jumping pull ups
Campus latches. 3 each side
20min projecting. Two purples. Managed the 2nd one.

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 10kg assist. 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.



Friday

Saturday

5x3 jumping pull ups
Campus latches. 3 each side
 20min projecting. 3 purples. Managed to do none.

Sunday
30min Tabata on the rower.
Shoulder flyes. 3x12 6kg front & to the side

Still trucking along. No major psych.

[Fiend]

Fiend. I know magic bullets are what you want, not advice.

OI  I know there's no magic bullets. But there's also no rationale to expect much improvement. So magic is all I have. And tbh Orc magic is pretty fucking unreliable. The number of head explosions from Orc Shamans....sheesh 

But one thing that's massively improved my rate of injury is remembering that any manual work, DIY, yoga IS NOT A FUCKING COMPETITION. Listen to your body, let the tools do the work. Let someone less injury prone do the work... Buy a mini digger.

Actually yoga - or at least stretching - should be a competition for me, as it's one area where I could incrementally progress.
Otherwise, yes you're right, this is something I already know and take into account: After the summer's debacle with abseil cleaning and shoulder fatigue, I've cut down on the duration and density of cleaning sessions, and my shoulders have settled a bit. After the previous week's debacle with ice axe cleaning in a waterfall and TE flare-up, I've cut down a lot on that particular hacking and the TE was settling a bit. BUT I made a mistake not realising that two handed full size mattock work could be as bad as ice axe work, hence a re-flare-up. I've now learnt from that too - and worked around it on Wednesday with success. And actually the cleaning sessions that don't fatigue me and don't aggravate particular injuries, I've found to be good for exercise and arm usage and even helping injuries heal - in sensible doses....not claiming that sense always plays a major / any role 

[cheque]

Fiend... Buy a mini digger.

You could really sort out a Lancs quarry or two with one of those.

[teestub]

Fiend... Buy a mini digger.

You could really sort out a Lancs quarry or two with one of those.

Sort as in backfill and then plant some trees? 😄

[shark]

Thanks Duncan and yes the weather has been super even if I haven’t


M. Tor. Short potter on Bens. Joined by Dave Mac and his strong mate who then went on Hubble even though it looked piss wet through

T. Early start. Flew to Malaga. Stopped off at Archidona Cave. Still feeling chesty. Got pointed at a 7a at the back of the cave by some locals as a warm up. Ed flashed it but had to try hard. I dogged up it and was shut down on the powerful crux. Stripped it. Checked the guide which said it was 7b+ 😡 The other stuff was too steep for me. Had a go at a good looking 7a+ on the left flanking wall. Fell off at the end of the crux sequence.

W. Cogollos. Campana Fell off a 6b+ warm up then fell off high on a 7a overhanging corner. Walked across to the other main Sector. Tried a good 7b but got shut down on a hard crux using a painful vertical finger slot.

T Cogollos. 6b+ warm. Had another at the 7b. Made some progress by taping my index finger but didn’t quite dog the crux. Went on a 6c+ but was tired and it was hard. Found out later it had a reputation

F Alhambra tour. Expensive but worth it.

S Chilam Billam crag. Amazing place. Did a 6a on the slabby walls right of the cave. Tried a 6c+ but went the wrong way on the crux and came off mid move when a piece of the tiny thin flake I was crimping crumbled. Redpointed it after. Then flashed the amazing 7a+ that takes the right edge of the cave. Happy with that. Steve onsighted an 8b+ and an 8b narrowly failing on the 8b+ extension

S. Plan was to go to Loja but Steve’s elbow flared up so stated local at Cogollos. Ended up lounging in the sun a lot waiting for the crag to go in the shade. Had three tie ins on a more sustained but less cruxy version of the 7b I failed on before. Great chunky route with an intimidating overhanging finish. Hopefully go down next time.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - GM session. Good.
Tue - board climbing after two weeks. Refined feet beta. Good links on current project.
Wed - various weights, very short on time.
Thu - AM as usual; PM clean and push, DL, fastest 2xBW ever done.
Fri - Pendlay rows; GM with pause. Bar work.
Sat - boxing bag, freezing cold.
Sun - dumbbells weights: high pulls, bentover rows, curls, goblet squat and press, press.

After your post about the number of days in a row you'd down some form of training, I cautiously spy your posts, always wondering... "will this be the week". Luckily that day never comes.

Hey thanks for the motivational boost!!! 

[Dingdong]

Been a while since I did one of these

M - power fct 3 sets, pinch lifts 26kg 6 sets, school 50 sesh, finally did Woodology after many sessions and felt ok today!

T - rest

W - found a weather window where Les Grand Doigts was dry and finally finished it, one of the best moves I’ve done! Went to the school for a short board sesh after

T - depot for a chill sesh

F - rest

S - went hawkcliffe and was kindly shown around by Liam, spent an hour finding beta on Crisis and had a magic go where it all clicked and I sent it, spent the rest of the day cleaning a few things and spotting peeps on new climbs

S - went depot armley, got spanked as per usual but managed a couple yellows and a bunch of purples which is nice. Still got shut down by a red slab though 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Indoor club... Mostly

Missed a week so here's double trouble:

Week: 727
M: Routes @ AW with the GF - Up to F6c.
T: Rest
W: MB 2019 @ 25 - 7 problems up to 6B and a load of tries on 7A-7B did nowt...
T: Rest
F: Routes @ AW up to F6b+ then got on a volumetastic pink F7b+ horrorshow! Couldn't even do the final move - felt like wrestling with a giant testicle (I would imagine  )
S: Nowt
S: Full on day on MTB @ Coed y Brennin (sp)... Ace day out with ace mates!

Week: 728
M: Froggatt - Bit damp but searched around for dry rock - did all the Tody's wall vert problems and a bunch of harder eliminates. Got Stuck into Hot Toddy (7A+ish)... Worked out all the moves but sadly no cigarello... Pint.
T: Rest
W: MB 2019 @ 25 - 10 problems up to 6B, worked more 7A-7Bs but felt weak! Did some benchmarking weighted pull ups and 7s max pulls on a 20mm edge (1 hand)... Quite an eye opener - turns out I'm a little stronger than the same time last year but my 7s max and 2 rep weighted pulls are almost identical... What is even more intriguing is that my left hand is 2.5kg weaker than my right... Food for thought!
T: Bouldering @ The Hangar with the daughter and Energizer Bunny - Was expecting to just potter and did mostly, then got involved in a slightly overhanging, 1/4 pad, crimpy, white rig - pure ratty filth! Only ended up doing it which was nice - fingers felt properly worked!
F: London
S: London
S: London

Meh...

[Will Hunt]

Checked the guide which said it was 7b+ 😡

Was that Danza Agresiva? When we were there years ago it was 7a+ or thereabouts to an intermediate lower off.

[shark]

Checked the guide which said it was 7b+ 😡

Was that Danza Agresiva? When we were there years ago it was 7a+ or thereabouts to an intermediate lower off.

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