[duncan]

Missed week 725...ooops!

Last week:

Wrist rehab.: reverse curls; shoulder front and side raises, palm down (4 sessions).
Finger strength: Fingerboard deadlifts, both hands, mix of grips, 10mm edge, up to 31kg of the left and 40kg for the right (3 sessions). A new strength PB  for the right hand.
Hip/knee rehab.: box steps; single-leg squats; frog squats (3 sessions).
Shoulder conditioning: Handstands; side plank; Is, Ys and Ts on the rings (2 sessions).

Was down in Somerset midweek but didn’t climb. Weather was dreich and I wasn't feeling super motivated. Potential local partners were variously injured, unwell, working, in Argentina, had family visiting, or doing a speed awareness course.

This week:

M - Wrist (extensor) rehab: palm down front and lateral shoulder raises; reverse biceps curls.
T - Westway: autobelay 200m of easy. Shoulder conditioning: Handstands; side plank; Is,Ys and Ts on the rings.
W - Wrist (extensor) rehab. Hip/knee conditioning: box steps; single-leg squats; frog squats. Fingerboard deadlifts, both hands mix of grips, 10mm edge, up to 36kg
T - Walked 7km.
F - Westway: 150m of easy on the autobelay, some easy leads with Hobbit and Pete. Shoulder conditioning as warm-up.
S - Hip/knee conditioning. Walked 10km.
S - Fingerboard deadlifts, both hands, crimps only, 10mm edge, up to 31kg. Lacking in power today so cut the session short. Will do some wrist rehab. this afternoon.

Easing back into climbing. Fingers are objectively quite strong at lifting weight but I can't try anything hard with my wrist at the moment. Hopefully touch rock this week.

[Duma]

Good to hear you're back climbing Duncan!

M - eve TCA, 40 min. Planned brief moonboard to try and tick off the 7A but monopolised by youths. Grumpily mooched about, but in the managed a black that I'd struggled with last week, and when the board was finally free did the 7A first go. Psyched.
T - eve TCA, 90 min. New whites (mid-high 6's). Flashed 8, 3 in a couple of goes, few attempts on a couple more.
W -
T - lunch Flashpoint, 60 min. Slab day to give R shoulder and bicep a break as there's been some warning aches. Basically everything up to vertical and everything up to "V6" , but nothing above.
F -
S - planned to run but couldn't be arsed.
S - lunch TCA, 2 hrs, Whites, tried the rest of the set. 20 problems, 8 flash, 7 in a couple of goes, 2 (the 2 I didn't manage on Tuesday) with a bit more work, 2 close, 1 nowhere near. R scapula achey after.

71.5 kg

[Wellsy]

Monday - Rested

Tuesday - Fingerboarded. Consistently hitting 40kgs added on the 20mm edge for 10 seconds which is good. Indoor session on the board. Not very good, felt strong and powerful but couldn't execute well.

Wednesday - Another board session at my mates. Good sesh, felt strong like Tuesday but much more precise etc. Good stuff.

Thursday - Indoor climbing session, did the whole new red circuit at the works and then a dozen irn brus. Benched 90kgs for 2, failed 100kgs for 1 but hopefully can get there.

Friday - Squats up to 105kgs for 5, ass to grass. PB.

Saturday - Stupid crossfit workout; a thousand (yes, 1,000) box step ups in a weight vest for time. Took me 61 mins. Grim.

Sunday - Outdoor session on the Eagle Stone curtailed by rain. Walk above Castleton, soggy but nice.

Keen for an intense training session tonight and for some good conditions to try something burly, 3D and hard outside.

[SA Chris]

M - just about lurgy free. 6 km easy pace run. Felt OK, still lingering cold though and pulse still high.
T - 5km intervals.  Also OK, but pulse a bit wild.
W - Not much, some kettlebells in evening.
T - Lunch walk. Nice day. Reasonable fingerboard session.
F - Lunchtime bouldering at Johnsheugh. More eliminates, taps aff in the sun, and a wild sea.
S - Glen Clova Half. Was swithering whether to bother, but weather was nice and it's a lovely place. Felt pretty good on first half if a bit too warm, but as soon as I started on way back realised I'd had a tailwind all the way out, and was faced with cold headwind on the way back. Any hopes of as decent a time as i hoped went out the window, just under 1:43 finish. Probably 4th fastest HM. Planned to head to boulders and climn for a bit, but stopped in hotel with a mate who was at the run, and spent too long setting the world to rights. Headed down to boulders a bit late, but got about an hour in. Managed to reclimb Peel Session Stand quite quickly for the first time in about 15 + years since FA, and did some good links on the Sit, but too much dicking about with hidden footholds to managed the long move to OK hold at the end again. Good to remember what a great problem and location it is. Sacked off as getting dark, and skin was wearing out, and hoped to climb on Sunday.
S - felt knackered, and Kyle sick as a dog, so not keen on afternoon wall session, so spent afternoon on sofa watching Alien/s.       

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep up with general indoor mileage - not enough. Try harder to reintroduce stretching and rehab - not enough. Look after niggles / tweaks - kinda, but tennis elbow flare up. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection - no. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally a bit of grit trad, or bouldering if too cold - barely.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - no, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - a bit more so this week, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes but could have been longer falls, deadhangs (if suitable) - cancelled due to tennis elbow, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - just x1, stretching x 3 - just x2.
MTG / LTG - stay active / climbing active enough to slow the physical decline.


M - Active rest / bloody idiocy - 1.5 hours quarry cleaning down a waterfall  then in the pissing rain. Right arm golfer's elbow fine, right arm tennis elbow flared up noticable from too much hacking fern clumps.

T -  Indoor bouldering @ RockOver. 10 x V1-3 (flash), 11 x V2-4 (flash), 10 x V3-5 (8 flash, +1 attempted) and 4 x V4-6 (2 flash, +4 attempted). Stoicism training being heckled by Nike Air for resting between problems. Felt decent. Stretching. Right arm tennis elbow sore but not worse than cleaning.

W -  Indoor routes @ Summit Up. F6b+ x 2, F6c, F6c+ x 2, F7a. Okay falls on each but could have been bigger. Mind was psyched but body felt creaky (despite conditioning warm-up), so steady session focusing on fun. Right arm tennis elbow okay in morning but sore after climbing. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab.

T - Gym. 1 hour misc weights, 40 mins stretching. Felt exceptionally weak on weights and most joints felt creaky in various ways, apart from the current injuries which felt okay (except right shoulder). Did some decent kneehab. Stretching felt decent.

F - Ill. Active rest - a bit of easy bouldering. Exceptionally weak but injuries felt okay. Elbow rehab.

S - Ill. Active rest - one easy trad route. Fresh air and company but a bit fed up.

S - Ill. Nothing. Wanted to do a steady session at the wall, but ate a rogue unripe persimmon, felt sick, and spent a lot of the day lying on the sofa. Fed up.


Mediocre week. Some potential earlier on with a decent volume session, but Manflu 2: The Revenge made an unwelcome reappearance and curtailed any possibility of continuing with that. Getting back to the gym was beneficial (and seemingly necessary given the weakness) and I'd like to continue with that but it's still difficult to motivate myself alone. Everything has got a bit dire so I'm restricting to any medium / long term goals to "stay active / climbing active enough to slow the physical decline" until current issues have settled (maybe this is optimistic, it could be "...slow the rate of acceleration of physical decline", although I haven't seen any evidence the rate is accelerating).


Next week STG: Exactly the same as last week.... Keep up with general indoor mileage. Try harder to reintroduce stretching and rehab. Look after niggles / tweaks. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally a bit of grit trad, or bouldering if too cold. Try to kick the manflu and look after myself (rest and food) in between activity.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

[shark]

Thanks Duncan

12.1

M. In New York still

T. Eve Travel home

W. PM Arrive Sheff.

T. Jet lagged and felt like shit. PM Tor. Grim weather that got worse. Messed around on hard section of Bens. Pleased to do throw move. Eve Foundry random routes in Furnace on auto belay. Pleased to do a 7a

F. Lawn mowing / leaf clearing at home. Eve Ergo BW 3x3 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs 3x supinated one arm locks on half pad edge and bar foot-off 3x attempted front levers +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10’secs. Stopped for dinner then couldn’t get going again

S. Awake half the night from jet lag. Felt terrible in the morning so scratched plans to go soloing at Stanage and had a mammoth leaf clear at office. Beautiful day. At least I was outside and exercising

S. A little hungover. PM Systems board. Benchmarks. Decent. Fingers felt strong. One set of 20/10’s timing 2 secs a move (120 moves). Ground to a halt at about move 38 on second set.

Off to Granada on 21st so will get a couple of indoor routes sessions in this week and aim to shift a couple of lbs.

[User deactivated.]

something burly, 3D and hard outside.

3D climbing on grit is quite rare, can we do a list? The definition of 3D climbing is vague, but leading with the feet is a good indicator for me. Here's a start:

Highly 3D
Panopticon
Palmed and Dangerous

Moderately 3D
The Golden Egg
Low Rider
Red Baron Roof

[Dingdong]

something burly, 3D and hard outside.

3D climbing on grit is quite rare, can we do a list? The definition of 3D climbing is vague, but leading with the feet is a good indicator for me. Here's a start:

Highly 3D
Panopticon
Palmed and Dangerous

Moderately 3D
The Golden Egg
Low Rider
Red Baron Roof

Basically any big compression overhanging prow could be considered 3D?

Mossatrocity
Old King Cascade
Mr C
The Fonze
Voyager

[User deactivated.]

something burly, 3D and hard outside.

3D climbing on grit is quite rare, can we do a list? The definition of 3D climbing is vague, but leading with the feet is a good indicator for me. Here's a start:

Highly 3D
Panopticon
Palmed and Dangerous

Moderately 3D
The Golden Egg
Low Rider
Red Baron Roof

Basically any big compression overhanging prow could be considered 3D?

Mossatrocity
Old King Cascade
Mr C
The Fonze
Voyager

Things like Mossatrocity are more or less just left-right-left-right slapping (although still very good). When I think of 3D climbing I picture something more complex, often involving spinning around in a roof, double toe hooks, knee bars, etc. but that's just my interpretation.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - GM 5x5 110kg then 100 with pause. Pendlay rows.
Tue - board climbing, as most recent sessions.
Wed - DOMS. Cleans, singles at 95%.
Thu - AM as usual; PM boxing bag. Screwed pre workout nutrition but salvaged the session thanks to green tea with honey.
Fri - AM as usual; PM back work, Pendlay rows, bentover rows, bar work. BM one arm hangs.
Sat - board climbing.
Sun - 4x AM session. Lower back very sore.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Meh club...

M: Boulder @ AW - Planned to get on the board but it was busy, wasn't feeling too sociable so ended up on the circuits - actually climbed okay... Lots of easies and 3 yellows (V6-8) and a couple of pinks (V5-7).
T: Rest
W: Boulder @ The Works - Mostly yellows and wasps. Place felt tired and dirty, was nice to climb with mates and setting is still good but the place feels like it needs a bit of TLC...
T: Rest
F: Shit day - Had to get the hound put to sleep...
S: Wiped out - raked leaves drank booze.
S: Moonboard (2019 @ 25) - 5 x 5+ - 6A+, 5 x Working project problems - 6C - 7A+, 3 x Old projects for benchmarking (all done in 1-3 tries) - 6B - 7A... Started off shite but got better as session progressed.

Tough week - good to keep at it but really need to do some work on PE as well. Booked to go to Teneriffe for my 50th (!!!!!) so psyched for that.

[SA Chris]

F: Shit day - Had to get the hound put to sleep...

Bugger. Not nice to have to do.

[Aussiegav]

Discipline Club

Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 12.5kg assist. 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.

Tuesday
5x3 jumping pull ups

Boulder Mileage. 20 problems 2min rests.
Red circuit at the Depot. Perfect intensity. Felt done at the end.
Finished with Dumbbell chest flyes
1x8. 7kg
3x8. 10kg

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 12.5kg assist. 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.



Friday
Rest day

Saturday
13 move boulders. 4x3 sets. Around V4.
2min rest on reps. 5min rest on sets.

5x3 jumping pull up
4x3 pull ups +20kg

1x10 7kg dumbbell chest flyes
3x8. 10kg dumbbell chest flyes

Sunday
30min Tabata on the peloton.

[Steve R]

Late entry

M. Crimp block pulls then just some circuit probs at wall
T. Oak Crag, NYM.  Beautiful late autumn day with a good mate.  Main draw was Guilty Pleasures which is a real gem of a problem - gently overhanging wall with high qual sandstone and nice slopers.  We both did the stand after some work and then both did the sit after a few goes and a bit of a battle on both successful ascents.  Perfect day really:
https://youtu.be/pOLWG5aD8Y4?si=CbrX0Y9fED4OWvSq
W. rest
T. Crimp block pulls up to 60kg on 15mm edge. Board, good sesh.  Ticked a problem I'd tried a bit last week.  Self film send:

NSFW  :

https://youtu.be/q6KMe94mU2Q?si=im-uiiETifoclQ5V

F. rest
S. Intended/planned to get out but had to abort unfortunately.  Long countryside walk then wall evening.  Crimp block pulls + board.
S. Rest

Decent week, fingers and climbing feeling good but now that I'm feeling fully recovered from covid and then cold(s) I feel like I should attempt some sort of cardio to hopefully feel a bit fitter generally.  Pulling strength feels quite low too so will try and up that a bit.