Quote from: Fultonius on November 06, 2023, 05:47:59 pmWe were climbing similar problems downstairs, so top end 6s and lower 7s. I know from lattice data that smaller people need more finger strength for the same grade but still.... impressive natural abilities!I think Dave MacLeod warned about this kind of stuff very early on when these benchmarks came out. I think the takeaway was that initially with a large sample this might be a way of identifying a 'benchmark' (or proxy?) achievement needed at the given grade but as these were then used, and seen as a training goal to achieve that grade, that things would rapidly become skewed. The fact that someone was good at hanging anything on a fingerboard previously wasn't necessarily gained by hanging on fingerboards, whereas now, that's how it's being achieved?
We were climbing similar problems downstairs, so top end 6s and lower 7s. I know from lattice data that smaller people need more finger strength for the same grade but still.... impressive natural abilities!
Having not climbed anything harder than 5+ outside (whilst one-arming BM slots) simply screams to me that someone doesn't climb outside.
The sun being a bit too hot, or the wind a bit too chilly. Weather forecasts and judging conditions. Staying warm/cool between goes. Warming up again before goes. The bolts not being closely spaced, or bolts not placed in the best places for clipping. Run outs. Sharp rock. Tides. Walk-ins. What food to bring. Dealing with seepage on holds. Waiting for a turn on the route between other parties. Exposure. Unfamiliar rock type. Dusty/dirty holds. Loose rock. Polished holds. Cracks.
‘why are some people so bad at outdoor climbing?’ instead it could be ‘what aspects of outdoor climbing are hard to replicate indoors?