There is likely some transfer, but if you'd done grappling instead it would have had even more transfer https://ijmcl.com/article-1-110-en.html
I have one friend who can pull a colossal 30kg more force than me on a large edge attached to a Tindeq, but he can't pull off the ground on 6mm micros and I can easily do 10s+ despite weighing more.
I will probably never hang the 6mms but would like to think that I climb pretty ok
Why are some people so incredibly bad at climbing outdoors?There are of course many reasons why the droves of climbers who can warm up on my indoor long term projects cannot go bolt to bolt on my outdoor warmups.
I also a not entirely convinced about Chris's answer - plenty of modern indoor 7A boulders require standing on worse, more subtle, footholds than climbing 9a in a roof (though they are more obvious for onsighting).
I find it interesting that some climbers seem to transfer well to rock (often those who were good at comps) but others really struggle (often those who like flicking on a board on good holds but struggle with more static climbing - do you see the same?)
jwi is probably think of steep climbs on good holds on rock as well as things with small holds (correct me if I'm wrong!). I will probably never hang the 6mms but would like to think that I climb pretty ok on rock compared to indoors, even if the "style" (angle and hold size) is similar e.g. steep on good holds. I also a not entirely convinced about Chris's answer - plenty of modern indoor 7A boulders require standing on worse, more subtle, footholds than climbing 9a in a roof (though they are more obvious for onsighting).
jwi - are the people you're thinking about good only on "board style" indoor stuff (e.g. moon board, kilter board)? I find it interesting that some climbers seem to transfer well to rock (often those who were good at comps) but others really struggle (often those who like flicking on a board on good holds but struggle with more static climbing - do you see the same?)
I've always felt that I 'learn holds' quite well. I'm generally terrible at flashing boulder problems, often feeling too weak initially, but I become significantly stronger on the holds as I understand them better. For what it's worth, i'm a life long guitarist who received classical training between the ages of 6 and 16; whether this fine motor control has translated to climbing, I do not know.
We were climbing similar problems downstairs, so top end 6s and lower 7s. I know from lattice data that smaller people need more finger strength for the same grade but still.... impressive natural abilities!
I find it interesting that some climbers seem to transfer well to rock (often those who were good at comps) but others really struggle (
QuoteWhy are some people so incredibly bad at climbing outdoors?There are of course many reasons why the droves of climbers who can warm up on my indoor long term projects cannot go bolt to bolt on my outdoor warmups.Not focused on the fine motor control part, but more widely my instinct is there's a psychological element to underperforming outside. Where emotions brought on by all the little micro inconveniences you get outside, that you don't get 'inside', impacts on the physical execution. Zero proof obviously. It probably helps not to have emotions.
Maybe the question isnt ‘why are some people so bad at outdoor climbing?’ instead it could be ‘what aspects of outdoor climbing are hard to replicate indoors?’ People who master those things perform well on rock and also explains why some people climb better outside