[Duma]

M - still a bit ill, parenting.
T - feeling mostly recovered, parenting.
W - parenting.
T - parenting, travel.
F - eve, TCA, rusty but enjoyed. 2hrs inc 1hr moonboard just doing a bunch of low to mid 6's to ease into it. Psyched to spend some more time on this over winter instead of just fucking around like normal.
S - Drove over to Lan Fawr to check out the boulder. Forecast marginal, but soaked when I arrived. Sunny and strong breeze so I hung around and did some litter picking. It's shady and sheltered from the southerly breeze so never dried out in the three hours I was there, then started to rain again. Out out in the eve.
S - somewhat hungover, though better than feared/deserved. TCA late afternoon, 1hr moonboard, still just ticking through mid 6's for now.

70.5 kg

[Fiend]

The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - n/a, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - yes, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, deadhangs (if suitable) - yes, elbow rehab x 2 - no, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - only once.
Next week STG: Contact as many suitable friends and partners as possible to try to encourage more regular climbing AND social connection - yes but still uphill. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection - no. Get some tentative UK-based plans / ideas for late Autumn - no. Book physio - yes. Look after knee - yes. Gentle bouldering indoors to test toe - no. Maybe a board session indoors to start to try to regain some recruitment as that will be toe suitable - yes but didn't do much apart from feel weak. Outdoor goals depend on weather - well I got on dry rock on Sun.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Active rest / shoulder fatigue - quarry cleaning. Eventually made myself contact as many suitable friends and partners as possible.

T -  Board reintroduction / ego demolishment @ The Chapel. Working individual moves on 6Bs whilst mrjr lapped them. Toe toetally fine. Knee mostly fine apart from one extended move which gave mild warning tenderness. Deadhangs on the minute / 2 minutes: 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 5 x 7s @ 15mm, 5 x 10s @ 15mm. I swear they've sanded down the 15mms on their Beastmaker there. Too lazy to do anything else.

W -  Ill. Rest.

T -  Ill. Rest.

F - Ill. Active rest / forearm acupuncture - quarry cleaning.

S - Ill. Active rest - light gym session. Very light weights and weak and niggly on those. Stretching. Deadhangs on the minute: 10 x 10s @ 20mm. Gentle, smooth, rounded edge, so of course was so hard on my pulp the tips of my fingers went white after.

S - Ill. Active rest - led a couple of VS/HVS/E1-y things (second ascents of new routes at an easy access, star-laden, natural grit Peak crag). Felt very shakey on the steeper route, but nice fresh air and lasted the day without needing a nap.


Wank week due to being ill, which meant any training / maintenance / inspirations were entirely shelved, and was too grouchy / ill-motivated to do supportive stuff.  Still, "it is what it is", kinda accepted it and didn't feel as demoralised as I could have. Nice to potter a bit on Sunday.


The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (if suitable), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
Next week STG: Carefully re-introduce training/climbing volume and/or load (depending on how body feels - not having specific aims yet as will go with the flow post-manflu).  Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Outdoor goals depend on weather but ideally a bit of grit trad.

[Duma]

keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - yes
Contact as many suitable friends and partners as possible to try to encourage more regular climbing AND social connection - yes but still uphill. Book physio - yes. Look after knee - yes. Maybe a board session indoors to start to try to regain some recruitment as that will be toe suitable - yes but didn't do much apart from feel weak. Outdoor goals depend on weather - well I got on dry rock on Sun.

M - Active rest / shoulder fatigue - quarry cleaning. Eventually made myself contact as many suitable friends and partners as possible.

T -  Board reintroduction / ego demolishment @ The Chapel. Working individual moves on 6Bs whilst mrjr lapped them. Toe toetally fine. Knee mostly fine apart from one extended move which gave mild warning tenderness. Deadhangs on the minute / 2 minutes: 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 5 x 7s @ 15mm, 5 x 10s @ 15mm. I swear they've sanded down the 15mms on their Beastmaker there. Too lazy to do anything else.

S - Ill. Active rest - led a couple of VS/HVS/E1-y things (second ascents of new routes at an easy access, star-laden, natural grit Peak crag). Felt very shakey on the steeper route, but nice fresh air and lasted the day without needing a nap.

This sounds like a good week Fiend, and intriguing crag??

[shark]

11.12

M. PM Grim foggy weather forecast to clear in afternoon in which case I might have gone to Stanage but it didn’t Eventually dragged myself to the Tor. Drippy. Bens just trying hard section. Cross thru in isolation and linked pocket and edge to kick a couple of times I think. Couldn’t do throw

T. PM. Foundry. First time indoors since Jan. Routes on remodelled main wall with Paul and Nic S falling off 6’s

W. Nice day so went to Tor. Joined a couple of keen lads on Bens. Managed to do pocket and edge to kick then throw to falling off getting toe on pinch a couple of times which was surprising

T

F. PM Ergo BW 3x3 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs supinated one arm locks on half pad edge  foot-on and a bar foot-off +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10’secs 3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x1 10, 10 and 9 secs +25kg FC 5 and 5 secs HC 3 secs. Bit rushed at end. Similar results to last Tuesday
Eve. Piss up and curry in Otley

S.

S. PM Leaf shovelling and clearing at office. Too tired after to train

Crappy autumn. Off to New York from Thursday for 6 days as Sonia is running the marathon. Back for 13 days then off to Granada for 10 days. Thoughts turning to winter training and next years aims.

[Fiend]

This sounds like a good week Fiend, and intriguing crag??

In the circumstances it was fine. Manflu is manflu, I get frustrated but not depressed with it. The crag is quite mundane, think "Shark E4 6c" and "Gritstone version of Ben's Roof".

[Aussiegav]

Power Club

Did an Insights accreditation course In Leeds all week. So it’s a deload week for me.

Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 15kg assist. 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.

Tuesday

Rest day

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

Fingerboard session at home

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests. Half Crimp
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 15kg assist.
4 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests. 3 finger open.



Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Projecting session at the Depot in Sheffield.
Got back on a Moonboard for the first time in probably 15months.
Forgot how much I dislike the 2017 set.

Sunday

45min Peloton ride.

[joel182]

Got back on a Moonboard for the first time in probably 15months.
Forgot how much I dislike the 2017 set.

By some margin the worst of the sets IMO. Been climbing on the 2019 set lately and reluctantly have to admit I quite like the plywood holds.

[duncan]

Well done everyone who got something done. No climbing for me but it doesn't feel like I'm missing much.

Finger strength: fingerboard deadlifts, right hand, 10mm and 14mm edge, up to 36kg (4 days).
Wrist rehab: palm down front and lateral shoulder raises; reverse biceps curls; fingerboard deadlifts crimping with a very light weight (4 days).
Shoulder conditioning: handstands; side planks; Ys and Ts (2 days).
Hip/knee rehab: box steps; single-leg squats; frog squats (1 day).

Had a cold most of the week so kept it easy other than the fingerboard dead-lifts.

Plan: take it easy until the cold is better. Have done three weeks of pretty hard fingerboarding with the right (good) hand so will take a few days’ break from this too.

Continue with wrist rehab. Easy climbing if I feel up to it.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Got back on a Moonboard for the first time in probably 15months.
Forgot how much I dislike the 2017 set.

By some margin the worst of the sets IMO. Been climbing on the 2019 set lately and reluctantly have to admit I quite like the plywood holds.

Completely agree - 2019 all the way for me... Got the 2024 setup coming soon which looks pretty sweet!

Kalymnos club:

M: Rest
T: Eros (Telendos) - Pretty frustrating day climbing-wise (but amazing from a holiday perspective), Energizer Bunny and me climbing with our girls who actually wanted to climb but it was a little tough for them (Emily in particular)... Did a Couple of F6a-F6b routes then walked round the island and had an amazing dinner!
W: AM @ Kastelli - Girls did some leading and TR's, best day for them so far! PM @ Summertime - Back on the F7c project. Frustrating session... Worked out great new beta for the move that spat me off and on RP totally ballsed it up and used Jus's beta that I'd not even tried (WTF!!) No idea why I did that but didn't have time for another go... Jus's go was even worse (for them..) They pissed through both cruxes and then somehow dropped it one move from easy ground!! Heartbreak - a day of Great British failure!
T: Rest @ Skalia cave - amazing formations. Vathy...
F: Last day @ Ghost Kitchen - Onsighting F6c to F7a... Amazing day!
S: Home
S: Walk int peak...

Kalymnos was amazing as always - Achieved all my pre-trip goals (climbing a shitload of cool routes, onsighting a bunch of F7a-F7a+'s, RP of F7b+-F7c and doing all the moves on at least 1 x F8a...) Really pleased - and have a great idea of what I need to train for over the winter.... Psyched!

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, links on current project.
Tue - board climbing, as above. Bad skin. 4x AM session.
Wed - AM 2x. PM light high pulls. Mental day, short on time.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - farmer's.
Sat - shoulder static holds, push press, high pulls. Very short on time.
Sun - tired. Boxing bag, I don't know how I managed to do it.

[Aussiegav]

Kalymnos was amazing as always - Achieved all my pre-trip goals (climbing a shitload of cool routes, onsighting a bunch of F7a-F7a+'s, RP of F7b+-F7c and doing all the moves on at least 1 x F8a...) Really pleased - and have a great idea of what I need to train for over the winter.... Psyched!

Great trip, good to hear your psych and happiness. That’s what trips are for!!   

[Fultonius]

Snatched sessions last week really.

Tuesday: managed an hour and a half at Beta Boulders in Amsterdam, ok session. Mainly trying to flash things in the 6C region, not amazing setting but fun nonetheless.

Saturday AM: first session back in damp and cold Glasgow. Prop store - hear the setting had improved, so was psyched for a  high volume fun session. Also heard the grades have softened... Well...   Typically I'd flash 1/3 to 1/2 the pinks, rarely flash black (they've now gone permanently) and usually only manage a handful of whites, or none, depending on how hard they're set).   Pinks seemed hard/harder (they've taken on some of the blacks) but the greens seemed pretty straightforward and I flashed one white 7A+, did all bar one move on another (7B). Just back from another session where I flashed another one and got one second go (that I should have flashed).   

Either I'm on basically the indoor bouldering form of my life (highly unlikely), or the hiring of a new lead route setter has recalibrated the grades a bit. Quite funny going from having to fight to RP 6c/7a routes in Slovenia to flashing 7A+. Need to test some benchmarks to see where I'm really at.

Soft grades aside, seem to be moving well so maybe 2 months of low volume (roughly 2 sessions a week) outdoor limestone has improved my plastic pulling power - explain that one lattice?!?! 

[Steve R]

M. rest
T. Indoor climb.  Usual crimp block pulls warm up, down a few % from pre-covid but I'll take that.  Felt pretty good.  Board - refamiliarised with a medium project I was on with before I got covid.  Was on overlapping halves before, now pegged back to overlapping quarters (ie. couple of moves at a time) but really pleased to manage all the moves bar one ok.  Some longer links/mileage on low 7s after.  Brilliant session, very grateful to feel some strength return and feel recovered from illness.
W. rest
T. Indoor climb. Would've got back on the board but skin and fingers (borderline side cuticle splitting from Tuesday's board session) meant it was a good idea to avoid harder crimping and stick to more open plastic holds.  Good to do some more varied movement anyway.  Felt pretty good. crimp block lifts up to 55kg on 15mm. 
F. Rest
S. Buddhist retreat daytime then Halloween UV party/fun comp thing at wall.  Good fun, optimum number of people so good atmosphere but not too busy that you couldn't climb/try stuff when you wanted.  Very rushed/forced warm up on the comp probs out of time necessity which felt pretty brutal on the body but got away with it.  Climbed well, felt good once warm.   
S. Rest

Really great week compared to previous three or so!
Desperate to get outside climbing, been far too long.

[Duma]

Buddhist retreat daytime then Halloween UV party/fun comp thing at wall.

Must have been a bit of a contrast!

Glad you're feeling better

[Steve R]

Must have been a bit of a contrast!

Glad you're feeling better

It was! Quite a transition..

Thanks Duma