[Taxi]

im off to the roaches on Sunday, and the new guide has endless problems:)
Which are the best of the bunch???
Cheers

[dave]

my favrit roachez problems:

staffz flya (skyline)
undercuts dyno (lower tier)
hard arete (5clouds)
finger of fate (5clouds)
persistence (5clouds)
sly stallone (newstones)
arete L of sly stallone (newstone)
tierdrop (ramshaw)

all pretty predictable, pretty run of the mill. all standard vistors ticks up to font7aish.

[hongkongstuey]

a few others worth checking too:

Lower Tier Boulders
Stretch and Mantle - V5 - a delightful, and slightly terrifying (the first few times anyway) problem
Three Pocket Slab - V3 - another gem
Ant Lives - V6 - an interesting and somewhat strange problem
Teck Crack Ditect - V4 (The Dignity of Labour is also ok and pretty soft at V6)

Upper Tier
Joes Arete - V3 - goes without saying really
Left Groove - V4 - its also possible to move left from the chipped foothold to finish on the extremely tiny crimps of One Inch Punch (not in the guide but probably about V5/6? - been along time since i did it)
Problem 13 - add in a sit start for a bit more fun
Problem 19 - hint, there's a little crimp just under the lip that makes a good intermediate
Problem 28 - the wall right of Joes Arete

Very Far Boulders (other than Staffs Flier the stuff between Upper Tier and here is only really worth seeking ut when you've climbed all the other really good bit)
Problems 24, 25 & 26 - all are excellent and worth the walk in their own right
Problem 9 - pretty good too
Most of the other stuff up here is pretty easy so you can run around like a mad man and tick a large number of other quality problems whilst there too

have fun.......

[Fiend]

And off the beaten track a little...

Brown's Wall SS - Gradbach Hill
HVS 6a thin crack - Gradbach Hill
(decent easy stuff here too)
The Cube - The Cube
Both aretes - The Cube
(good easy stuff here too)
Stall Arete (haven't done it but played a bit to know it's good) - Gib Torrr
Slopey wall problem left of SA - Gib Torrrr
Thin 6a slab - Five Clouds
All the stuff esp. the blunt rib - Extremely Far Skyline (what stuey means I think).

[Bubba]

Or even the Very Far Skyline

[hongkongstuey]

All the stuff esp. the blunt rib - Extremely Far Skyline (what stuey means I think).

may i draw your attention to page 77 of the rather fine guidebook to the said area (although pages 213-217 are, of course, the finest part of the guide and it pains me to divert your attention elsewhere  :wink: ) - i think you'll find the name i used to be correct (although i'd never heard them called that before the guide came out to be honest)

[Taxi]

So im going to have a busy day then:)
Thanks for that. I might actually get to the top of something for a change!
Hope it doesn't rain....
Off to study now, joy to the world:(

[a dense loner]

staffordshire flyer is at doxeys pool! quite probably submerged tho

[Fiend]

Can I just take this moment to report that Limbless Limbo Dancer on the Calcutta Buttress is the best mid-grade problem at the Roaches if not Staffordshire, despite what people may think of such inferior stuff as Staffs Flyer, The Ripple, Persistence or indeed anything else. In fact all stuff on that buttress is pretty cool.

I thank you.

[Taxi]

Got rained on so didn't do very much which was a bit crap. Picked the worst day ogf the weekend to go!
Did a V3 traverse thing and V5 dish problem.
On the upper tirer down and left a bit, most other things were wet and staffs flyer was under water...