[Aussiegav]

Hope everyone is dry and safe.
Power Club

Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 15kg assist. 3 finger open 4sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.

Tuesday

Depot after work.
Fingers very tired. Spent evening having pizzas with my eldest. He’d been out bouldering all day.

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

Fingerboard session at home

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests. Half Crimp
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges with 15kg assist.
4 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests. 3 finger open.



Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Rest day

Sunday

Red circuit at the Depot
20 Problems. 1-2min rests. flashed 16. Did 2 second go. 2 not do in two tries

Strength training after.
5x3 jumping pull up
4x3 pull ups +16kg
1x10 7kg dumbbell chest flyes
3x8. 10kg dumbbell chest flyes

45min Peloton ride.

[shark]

Thanks Gav

12.1

M. Drive back from Devon

T. Home warm up. Triceps really sore and couldn’t do a pull-up. Presumably DOMS from the attempted front levers on Saturday. Good job I didn’t get any takers for the Tor. Decent weather so went to Stanage Popular to do some soloing. Was in a bad mood after the weekend made worse by forgetting my thermos and a Labrador stealing my food. No drama otherwise and decent grit connies. Felt like I was climbing well.

W

T. Mild head cold. Decided to give Tor a swerve which was a good call as Ted reported it was all damp anyway
PM. Ergo BW 3x3 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs supinated one arm locks on half pad edge  foot-on and a bar some foot-off +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10’secs 3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x1 pull-ups 10, 7 and 10secs +25kg FC 5 and 7 secs HC 3 secs. Happy with that as it indicates I’m around PB level despite laying off fingerboarding since mid August

F. Rain

S. PM systems board. Lacked burl on benchmarks and finger strength down. Failed to do a complete set of 20/10’s timing 2 secs per move. Not sure whether to blame low level cold, not being fully recovered from Thursday or adverse effects from hangover. Back felt worked and sore after

S.

Sorted to go to Granada at end of November which I’m really looking forward to. Currently feeling stale but will keep plugging away as have will have a week off at start of November when we go to New York so Sonia can run the marathon

[Fiend]

The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - yes but not really challenged. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - no, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - a bit, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, deadhangs (if suitable) - n/a, elbow rehab x 2 - n/a, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - yes.
Next week STG: Explore lots of cool places that are bird-banned in spring - no, Regain motivation to try a bit harder - no. Look after toe - yes. Take advantage of any fresh conditions to climb to my limit here if toe allows - no. Pack in as much climbing as possible whilst here - no. Don't strain the back of my leg on a heel-hook, have a panic attack about the trip / winter / life being ruined by another knee injury, and have to climb cautiously with it taped for a few days - no. Enjoy the splendour of the Pfalz even if all the rest doesn't work out - yes.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Easy climbing @ Pfalz. One easy route and one slightly tricky route. Strained the back of my leg on a heel-hook and had a panic attack about the trip / winter / life being ruined by another knee injury. Taped knee up and did one more easy route to carefully test positions, which was okay. Low mood.

T -  Easy climbing @ Pfalz. Two long slabs. Stimulating enough in a Staffordshire grit sort of way. Taped knee and taped toe. Both okay. Found that leg is fine on rockovers (useful), and less fine on wide moves and bridging out, and can't touch toes at all. A little bit of stretching. Okay mood.

W -  Easy climbing @ Pfalz. A few easy-ish routes. Some good length and variety. Taped knee and taped toe. Both okay, back of leg sore due to tape abrasion. A little bit of stretching. Better mood and felt more motivated to get cranking in the next couple of days...

T -  Active rest. Rain. One brief route, some traversing, some walking. Taped knee and taped toe. Knee okay, toe a bit tender as I didn't wear downpointing shoes. A little bit of stretching.

F - Rest. Rain. Visited the pigs at Barenbrunerhof. I don't like rain. Worked out knee injury could be a strained aductor muscle attachment. I don't like knee injuries.

S - Easy climbing @ Pfalz. A few easy-ish routes, albeit with a couple of tricky moves. Slow start due to things drying. Taped knee and taped toe. Both okay.

S - Easy climbing @ Pfalz. 2 easy-ish routes. A fair bit of walking around airports. Taped toe. Toe okay. Knee a bit achey later.


A weird week that averaged good overall due to the fact it's the Pfalz and even a mixed, low-key, stop-start trip to the Pfalz is better than not being in the Pfalz. Climbing sluggishly and without confidence (partly due to toe), and definitely not smashing out F7a+ flashes and F7c redpoints - even before tweaking my knee which nearly sent me into a disastrous depressive spiral. Thankfully more minor than previous knee injuries, and got back into the swing of things just in time for the rain. It was still a lovely place to be and I enjoyed what I did there, but the main takeaway was getting me more inspired for a longer trip next autumn.


The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (if suitable), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
Next week STG: Contact as many suitable friends and partners as possible to try to encourage more regular climbing AND social connection. Post on general climbing groups to encourage more climbing if possible AND social connection. Get some tentative UK-based plans / ideas for late Autumn. Book physio. Look after knee. Gentle bouldering indoors to test knee and toe. Maybe a board session indoors to start to try to regain some recruitment as that will be toe suitable. Outdoor goals depend on weather.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sorry to hear that the trip was marred by injury Matt - Glad you had a good time overall though. Onwards and upwards amigo!

Kalymnos club:

M: Rest/Work
T: Rest/Work
W: Noufaro - Sticked up an amazing looking F8a (Myself not a Fish)... Got biblically rained on but thankfully the route stayed dry. Elliot had a valliant flash attempt, only being shut down by poor conditions! Strong lad... After another biblical rain shower I had a TR and did all the moves (minor YYFY!)... Elliot managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory by dropping it after the crux due to poor connies on his RP attempt... Decided to bail and just do some easier routes - managed to lob off a F6c+ after finding the crux pocket full of water! Came down and G/Upped it by the skin of my teeth (using said water filled pocket )... Fun day!
T: Rest - Get Energizer Bunny and our daughters from Pothia...
F: Summertime - Some easies with the girls and a lovely F6b+ and F7a onsight....
S: Spartan Wall - Nice F6c+ to warm up then dogged up a great looking F7b+ - Greasy and proper tough! Between us me and Jus only just about managed all the moves - bailed!
S: The Beach - Feeling the cumulative effect of over 3 weeks of climbing in my arms and fingers - Warmed up on a F6b and got completely flash pumped... Came down and G/Upped it  Was hoping to try and onsight Elizabeth, a great looking F7b but there was no chance in hell - Jus gave it a good shot, only failing on the final move missing a hold in the big hueco at the very top - couldn't have been closer! Did another F6b and this time didn't struggle.... Beat!

Good week with a mix of success and failure - body is certianly feeling it now though. Already planning to do the same next year but have decided I need to definitely do more volume and subsequent days on as training (rather than a summer on the MB) as I'm pretty broken now... All good tho! Here til Saturday so looking forward to what the rest of the week has in store.

[Wellsy]

Can't remember early this week

Did go out to Stanage yesterday and had a nice time doing various fun little blocks though

Benched 85 for 3 and did weighted pullups. 35kgs added for 3 which surprised me as my PB was 36 for 3, I could definitely have done 36 if I tried, and I haven't trained em in months

[duncan]

Glad you got to be there and managed to do something Matt. Good that your toe stood up to the climbing.

M - Hip/knee conditioning and flexibility: frog squats, single leg squats, box-steps.
T - Westway autobelay: eight easy routes, wearing wrist support, strictly front three.
W - Fingerboard pick-ups: front three, full crimp. Hip/knee conditioning.
T - 10km walk.
F - Westway autobelay: eight easy routes as above.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: front three, full crimp only with the left; mix of grips with the right. 36kg with the right hand on the 10mm edge which is a new PB. Wrist extensor rehab: shoulder raises and reverse bicep curls.
S - 10 mins./200m swim in the murk. 14C but felt colder. Wrist tolerated this amount of paddling but I’m not sure if the rest of me does! Walked 10km.

Wrist is behaving much as I would expect: tolerating limited activity if I strap it up and keep it neutral/slightly extended (ie crimping). Slowly improving but a long way to go before I'll be jamming or undercutting much. I’m probably done with harder climbing this year.

Plan: wrist rehab.

A bit frustrating 'Rocktober' won't be happening but I should end up with stronger wrists and fingers and hopefully be less prone to elbow tweaks too so perhaps it'll be a win in the long-term.

[Duma]

M - rest
T - rest
W - eve, TCA, 90 min fairly desultory bouldering, couldn't really be arsed. Did break the beta on a nice black though.
T - was going to try and start getting some snap back on the Moonboard (TCA have reverted to the 2019 set (thank fuck)), but sore throat and no energy so canned it.
F - still a bit ill.
S - still a bit ill, parenting and travel.
S - still a bit ill, parenting.

71 kg

Bit of a nothing week really. Rested after Greece trip, then got ill, now in Cornwall for half term.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - pinch session after ages, +2 +8 kg. Monos and back2 mid front levers. Nice. 2x AM session.
Tue - GM 5x5 110kg, then with pause 5x5 100 kg. Bentover rows.
Wed - AM as usual; PM  4x AM session; high pulls; shrugs with static holds.
Thu - AM as usual; PM 4x AM session, obliques, light weights, back work.
Fri - board climbing. Crucial session for micro beta.
Sat - weights.
Sun - weights.

[Steve R]

M. Stretch, rest
T. Rest
W. Indoor session, felt just about alright. Encouraging.
T. rest
F. Indoors again, not feeling good
S. Rest
S. Indoors, not feeling great but not terrible.

Late entry, finally felt like getting over covid last week. Gratefully feeling back to normal this week.