[Aussiegav]

Power Club 720. 25 Sept - 1 October

Hope everyone has had a good week.

Monday -
5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges. 4 with 17.5kg assist. 2 with 15kg assist

Tuesday

Strength training at the depot.
5x3 jumping pull up
5x3 pull ups +16kg
4x4 each leg. assisted pistol squats off footstool


1x10 8kg dumbbell chest flyes
3x8. 10kg dumbbell chest flyes
1x8. 5kg. Front & lateral raises.
3x12. 7kg. Front & lateral raises.

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday

Fingerboard session at home.

5 sets of 3 body weight repeaters. 1 minute rests.
6 sets of 7 sec hangs on 12mm edges. 1 with 15kg assist. 5 with 12.5kg assist
4x3reps 3 finger body weight repeaters


Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Boulder mileage session on Red circuit at the Depot. 20problems. 2mins to do the problem with 2min rests between problems.

Sunday
Strength training at the depot.
5x3 jumping pull up
4x3 pull ups +20kg
4x4 each leg. assisted pistol squats off footstool


1x10 8kg dumbbell chest flyes
3x8. 9kg dumbbell chest flyes
1x8. 5kg. Front & lateral raises.
3x12. 7kg. Front & lateral raises.

45min Peloton ride.

[duncan]

Thanks Gav. Not a bad week here, although no actual rock climbing.

M - Short swim in the murk. A bracing 16.5C. Westway routes to 6a+.
T - Pull-ups. Fingerboard: 14mm edge.
W - Shoulders and elbows conditioning, including pull-ups. Westway routes to 6b.
T - Shoulders and elbows conditioning. Hip and knee conditioning and flexiblity: frog squats, single leg squats, calf-raises.
F - Swam in the murk. Shoulders and elbows conditioning, including pull-ups. Westway routes to 6b. Das Rheingold at the Royal Opera, great production.
S - Tired, elbow a bit sore. Hip and knee conditioning and flexibility.
S - Westway bouldering to “V3”. Shoulders and elbows conditioning.

As my hip seems to have recovered to where it tolerates very gentle drop-offs I indulged in the first bouldering of any description for 9 months or so.

I should try to do some actual climbing whilst the weather is decent. Anyone fancy two or three days in Wales (north or south) later this week? (reeve is fully booked!)

[Duma]

M - TCA, few laps on the 7a on the circuit board then got distracted by mates and did a few blacks upstairs.
T -
W - UCR, 6b, 6c, 7a, 6c+, 7a+ (fall near top), 7a, 7a (fall not quite holding last hold), 7a (good fight at top). Good to take a few falls before going away.
T -
F -
S - travel
S - Leonidio, Sabaton. Ultra Mega Shit 6a, Crazy Drill 5c (both decent, though sadly chipped), Tsoukatos 6c {second go, this felt harder than the next 2 routes), Born 2 be Precious 6c+ (terrible name, excellent route), Makari 7a (also good), then a quick attempt at Love of My Life 7b+ (dropped low crux, pulled back on and did it to the top, mildly frustrating as it's trivial before the point I did it from, but no time or beans for a RP)

71kg

It's lovely here.

[Wellsy]

Monday- Kilter Board Session. Did a 7B, felt strong

Tuesday - rested

Wednesday - Fingerboarded. Motherboard Session, did a long running power proj that is also 7B. First session on squat programme, .

Thursday - First session on bench programme

Friday - no training. Planet Zogg till 6am lol

Saturday - quiet contemplation

Sunday- Lakes, went to Thirlmere and did a 6A and a great 6C called Lake View Arete. Tried a 7A for a while and got the beta but no send. Went to Langdale and did Rising Traverse 7A+ on the lower boulder. Mega chuffed, my first of that grade on Rhyolite!

Font coming up, feeling strong and keen!

[Steve R]

M. crimp block 12mm edge, sets up to 55kg.  Board - short links and single moves on a harder project.  Long links and fairly close on an easier project.
T. Rest
W. crimp block 12mm edge, sets up to 55kg.  Some circuit problems inside, didn't feel great.
T.  Hasty Bank bouldering, NYM. Feeling tired and not quite firing but did Trivial pursuits sit start over at Cold Moor and tried other stuff in the vicinity.  Really keen to get back for these.
F.  Felt tired and slightly ill.  Stretching session.  Tested negative for covid.
S. Felt worse, tested positive for covid. 
S. Felt worse still, just in bed all day.  Feverish and aching everywhere.

[Fiend]

The usual STG: Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - a bit but also fucked one up, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - I think so, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes, deadhangs (if suitable) - yes, elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, stretching x 3 - yes.
Next week STG: Get a fixed plan for Autumn - no. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Outside aims depend on weather - yes, did some brief trad hits. Do a leading / falling session indoors - yes. Maybe Depot Red if weather is poor after they reset them - partly but climbed badly.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - A bit of local Easy Trad. Couple of easy routes and fell off a tricky route when the sharp lip of a jug snapped. Doh. At least I was going for it.

T - A bit of local Easy Trad. An easy route and did a semi-tricky route albeit with too much initial tentativeness about a possible fall due to being pumped and stressed, something to work on there.

W - Indoor routes @ Parthian. F6b+, 2 x F6c, 2 x F6c+, F7a, attempt F6c (fell off comedy blob wrestle), F7a+ (made a silly mistake, No Mistakes Allowed), F7a+ (pump-fest, shut down fair and square). Decent practise falls on almost all. Decent session despite whack grading. Shoulder rehab and elbow rehab.

T - A bit of local Easy Trad. An easy route and did a semi-tricky route albeit quite overgraded. Also Leg Day. Stretching in evening.

F - A bit of local Easy Trad. An easy route and fell off a semi-tricky route on the easy bit (made a silly mistake, No Mistakes Allowed). Absolutely furious with myself that I fucked up a likely really enjoyable climb due to carelessness.

S - A bit of local Easy Trad. One easy but uncleaned route at Lester Mill, then ~2 hours of cleaning. Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 14/20 Reds in Left Room, 12 flash, 1 2nd go, 1 worked. Briefly tried a few others and unsuccessfully seiged a slab, and sprained my big toe on another failed slab. Generally pissed off (rollover from previous day). Somehow made myself do deadhangs on the minute: 5 x 10s @ 25mm, 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 10 x 10s @ 15mm. Quite chuffed with the latter but suspect it's down to skin and pulp and wood conditions. Also stretching session.

S - Rest. Toe still sprained. Mood still a bit grumpy. But I did enough yesterday to bravely cope with a rest day. Elbow rehab and shoulder rehab, both feeling okay, and some stretching.


Mixed week. Started good with a few decent local quick hits (feeling a bit more climbery), plus a decent wall routes session. But then buggered it up later on - I have been making stupid mistakes for a while now despite climbing a bit better, and I keep thinking "You've got to stop making stupid mistakes because at some point you will make a stupid mistake on a really cool inspiring route and it will be shit" . And then I made a stupid mistake on a really cool inspiring route and it was shit.  I think it's partly too much indoor climbing and partly being out of practise with focusing properly on semi-challenging routes - that's something to work. Body is feeling mostly okay I think.


The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (if suitable), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
Next week STG: Be careful with sprained toe. Get a fixed plan for Autumn. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers. Outside aims depend on weather.

[shark]

12.0

M. 13degrees. Decent conditions but not mint like last Thursday Two tie ins on C&A with Graham. Top half of the AM headwall went slickly again. Put in a few tries on the lower half as struggling on the long stretch left and then 4x4 attempts on cross thru and throw move of Bens. Sam (Blackwell?) did Weeding the Lip and Will Bosi did a repeat on it too.

T. Tweaked back getting out of bed. Won’t do that again

W

T. Three tie ins. First lowered in from top on headwall and dabbled on AM headwall.  Way I had the rope set up wasn’t good for working. Conditions not as good as Monday. Second tie just re-worked Push Up crux. Third tie in dogged up whole route doing some sections. Good to get involved with the whole thing. Pleased to almost do the crux section of Crucifixion at first attempt when tired as not been on that for ages. Finished by forcing myself to do the 4x4 attempts on cross thru and throw move of Bens. Felt like a big day.

F

S

S PM systems board. First time in a while. Did ok on benchmarks despite humidity. Please to do a complete set of 20/10’s timing 2 secs per move.


Weight a disaster this year but don’t feel heavy climbing or look overweight.

Will have a dedicated session on Bens this week and see if the 4x4 training on the throw and cross through has yielded any gains

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - 4x AM session, back work.
Tue - board climbing, links. Two overlapping halves. 22,5°. Back work.
Wed - abroad. AM as usual. PM push ups. Easy day.
Thu - abroad. Bouldering gym. Light bar work.
Fri - abroad. Weights.
Sat - abroad. Push ups, BW squats, core.
Sun - abroad. AM push ups, core. PM 2x AM session.

[Coops_13]

T: Board session, surprisingly good session.

W: 2.25mile walk. Bench press 205lb X3 *3, Chest fly, Incline chest press, External rotation, Shoulder press, Diagonal raise, Svend press. 20 mins peloton

T: 2mile walk. Board session

F: 2.2mile walk.

S: Camp Dick. 7 miles, 900ft ascent. Went to finish off Put Some Hair Around It V8, tried in 2019. Did not finish it off… Also didn't send anything else :D Doesn't help that it is v low trafficked.

S: Hike to Salmon Lake. 10.9 miles, 2600ft ascent.

[Fultonius]

Totally slacking last few weeks...

wk1: Via Ferata in the dolomites. One day climbing  in the middle where I did a few warm up/easy routes then jumped on a 7b+ called Dai Animo in Citta Dei Sassi. Had a proper onsight go, but misread a hard move low down. There's no real crux, just sustained bouldery steepness. Took a while to figure out the last hard move of the main meat of it, then it's cruisy to the top. Had a good rest and fired it 2nd go, ripping a flapper in a sharp fingerlock in the process. Power grunting all the way.

Wk2: cycled from Vienna to Budapest with mum and gf. Very mellow, biggest day 74km but all totally flat. We maybe should have saved this one for mum's 80th, not 70th - bit too easy! Had a cold most of the week

Last week. GF caught my cold, so was taking it easy (...therefore no climbing partner...)

Monday: Solo session at local crag. Utterly spanked on 6bs   
Tues: 700m ascent mountainbike ride after work with local guy - mega trails!
Weds: Brief fingerboard session
Sat: Climbing at Nadiza (local crag), still not firing properly. Got shutdown on a 6b+  which took my 5 or 6 goes to figure out the crux - wasn't so bad after I rippped the ivy off and uncovered some footholds. Then tried a 6c finish to a nice 6a+ gf was working - clearly hadn't been climbed in year, mud and veg oozing out the holds and the crux is runout above the last bolt above a ledge - bail mallion was an obvious hint...  Got on another steep a burly looking 6b+ - pumped and struggling to recover on ok holds. Fitness has seemingly gone to shit.  Tbf Slovenian grades are savage at the best of times, but to go from having a decent o/s attempt on a 7b+ to fighting for 6b+ in 3 weeks is demoralising!
Sunday: 800m hike / jog back down the hill right behind the house.

Misty most mornings, and due to rain tomorrow so Thursday morning's planned climbing session might not be best timed. Getting used to making the most of the local conditions and getting work schedules aligned to make the most of the climbing opportunities - but loving it so far!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Missed a week club:

Last week - Some AeroCap and a MB session 1 x new 6C Benchie - dialing down as off to Kalymnos for a month....

M: AeroCap @ AW
T: Rest
W: Packing
T: Fly to Kalymnos - Obligatory G&T's on the plane...
F: Easy Day @ Summertime - F5's and F6's... Had a look at a F7c to project - looks possible.
S: AM @ Kastelli with the GF, she's not in the greatest space so didn't want to lead owt - 4 x F5's in me trainers... PM @ Summertime - Got on F7c, did all the moves and linked second crux to top - Ace!
S: Chilled beach vibes - don't wanna push too hard too early  .

Back in Paradise - being here for a month is pretty sweet. I'm working a bit, doing some general holidaying and the GF isn't climbing much more than a few TR's a day (and isn't happy belaying on anything I'm likely to lob off!) so I'm having to be pretty organised with my time... Plan is thus: Week 1 (with GF), find doable project or two. Week 2 (with GF), work them. Week 3 (on my own), find psyched partners and RP projects. Week 4 (energizer bunny comes out with both our daughters), onsight loads of stuff and have fun with the kids... Will see how that pans out.