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Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023 (Read 4041 times)

duncan

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Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 10, 2023, 12:47:49 pm
M - Fingerboard pick-ups, left hand only, progress to 10mm edge, 4 finger crimp x 36kg. Swam 1km in the murk. Proms: BBCSO playing Brucknerís 8th symphony, the El Cap. of the classical repertoire!

T - Early start, drove down to the Dewerstone. A few other teams made for a good atmosphere. Soloed Mucky Gully, Colonelís ArÍte, Pinnacle Buttress and Route B; all excellent at their grade.

On to a deserted and spooky Cheesewring quarry. Started with Traitors Gate which was a bit wet and green; soloing didn't feel a great idea. After this I decided to use a rope on Simanon Direct; awkward self-belaying, good climbing. Pottered around on the Cheesewring itself: highball Font. 5 or E1 5c? Fabulous to be up on the moor in the early evening with the place to myself.

On to the Devilís Jump. Soloed South East Climb, a hidden gem. I got the approach wrong and was completely lost returning to the car, spending 45 minutes grovelling up steep brambled slopes in the dark and more time extracting prickles afterwards. Partner for Penwith bailed and the Count House was booked-up so drove back to Dartmoor and slept under the stars.

W - Chilled start due to the previous dayís efforts and ridiculous temperature. Drove down to Brixham in the late afternoon to take a look at Magical Mystery Tour. No one else was on it but the glassy flat sea tipped the balance in favour of climbing. I still anxiously overgripped everything, inexperienced and feeling the solitude. Conditions were not great: 30C and 88% humidity, my glasses misted-up, and most of the climbing was greasy. A towel would have been much more useful than my chalk bag. I stayed dry as far as the Blue Grotto but chose to swim/wade this as it was quite shallow, the rock was gopping, and I could avoid the jellyfish. Met up with a bunch of coasteers who suggested following them swimming around the point and back to the Great Cave rather than scrambling up the headland. Drove up to Weston.

T - Quiet day with Mum. Walked 7km.

F - Ansteyís for some gentle sport climbing: did a couple of routes on Tomís Wall and failed on Crook Bruce, now fully-bolted making it a steep 6c or thereabouts. Would have been a challenging E4! Elbow just about survived this. Long drive back to London.

S - Fingerboard pick-ups, both hands, 10mm edge, 4 finger crimp x 31kg.

S - Short swim.

Some good easy trad. including eight more Pat ticks. First Ďproperí DWS: MMT was memorable and satisfying but Iím not yet sold on the general idea. Eyesight is a problem, glasses donít work, and I need to sort out contact lenses if I do more. I need to be going with a group of people, or at least not on my own. I should try some short, unserious, routes and get used to falling into water (I tried to arrange this but health got in the way). If I manage all this Iíll think about Rainbow Bridge. Iím mildly hydrophobic, let other people jump into the sea on my behalf, and wouldnít have dreamed of swimming the 400m or so back to the great cave a couple of months ago. Graded exposure has worked! Thanks to AJM for moral support and Adam for keeping an eye on me in the water. 

Plan: climb some routes in Verdon, don't completely screw elbow in the process.
« Last Edit: September 11, 2023, 12:45:15 pm by duncan »

Coops_13

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#1 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 10, 2023, 04:31:02 pm
M: Guanella Pass. Second session on Ace of Spades V9. Could have sent first go, should have sent in first few goes. Skin quickly deteriorated which made things tough. Horribly sharp boulder makes me not keen to come back anytime soon. Walk up Genessee Mountain

T: Bench press 200lb X3 *3, Chest fly, Incline chest press, Shoulder press. 30 mins peloton

W: Hangs 2A 20mm 7s up to +100lb. Board session, shoulder feeling a bit tweaky

T: 2.2mile walk. 45 mins peloton, PR.

F: Two arm hangs 20mm up to +120lb. New PR I think, later worked out I hung 298.2lb total, should have tried a couple more! Board session

S: 3mile hike, Well Gulch Trail near Fort Collins. 600ft ascent

S: Board session, first time able to have garage door open for a while - humid

shark

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#2 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 10, 2023, 05:08:03 pm
M. Foron with Ash. Had the 5 flappers from Sunday to contend with. Failed to redpoint a pumpy 7a Iíd onsighted 4 years ago.

T.

W. Foron. Managed to work and redpoint a 7a+ (7a in my guide).

T.

F. Foron. Worked a superb 7b+ (7b in my guide) but couldnít do the crux which had multiple options. Watched someone else on it which suggested another way.

S. Foron. Worked the route again and found a way I could do it. Still hard

S.

Been a wake up call. Knew my endurance would be poor but didnít expect it to be this bad. Doesnít bode well for Cross N Angry when I get back so considering sacking that off to concentrate on Bens. Dunno   

Duma

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#3 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 10, 2023, 10:36:37 pm
M - eve, run, 6k, hilly trail, 33 min. Stupidly hot.
T - out for mates bday
W - eve, cheddar. Pushing it for evening sessions now but trying to make the most of the weather. Spacehunter, melting on the trek up but just about bearable in the shade. On Return of The Gunfighter 7c. Mate had beta from a session last week and got the clips in. Bolt to bolt to warm up and check beta. Moves okish but struggled a bit to focus with the exposure. Ant made good links on his go then I had a RP attempt. No expectations and felt weirdly nervous to start with, but somehow got through the first few cruxes and spent an age shaking out in the amazingly exposed rest as the sun went down. Skin of the teeth through the last crux, saw the foothold for the last significant move was wet but too blown to hesitate, rocked up and got the decent hold by the last bolt, started to stand up when foot slipped - aaaargh! One one hand I was totally robbed, the route's over then and that was literally the only wet bit of rock on Spacehunter buttress. On the other, I wasn't expecting to do it this eve, it's an absolutely majestic bit of climbing in a glorious position, and now I get to do it again!
T - eve, Cheddar. Support for mate trying to finish the 7a's. Freaky wall, dogged up Tarmac Terminator 7a to get clips in and show beta to Jack, he flashed it comfortably. Failed OS on the neighbouring The Babbler 7a+, worked something out at the right sort of grade in the end but got quite close to the route on the right, think something must have broken as any more direct felt much too hard.  Only enough light for me to finish this and Jack to do the other 7a, this'll be the last evening session this year.
F -
S - Cheddar, Ginsberg wall as support crew for GF. Repeated 2001 7a to get the clips in for her, then filled a gap in my cheddar CV by doing Get That Man 7a+ between belays. Was a bit underwhelmed tbh (though I'm sure my opinion is somewhat coloured by fumbling the pocket on the OS). Seemed way too cruxy and morpho for three stars. Nice day out though, despite all the cunts revving up and down the road repeatedly. #closetheroad
S - Cheddar, back to Spacehunter with Ant for Return of The Gunfighter. Early start to beat any other suitors to the crag, got to the base just ahead of an impressive thunderstorm. Bit of a delay getting started for the rain but dried up quick and after warming up and getting the clips in both managed it quickly. Truly brilliant route, the positions, especially the rest by the peg out on the edge of the void, are unparalleled. Brilliant day, brilliant week.

71.5kg

Too dark for evening sessions now and no free weekends until Greece in Oct so will be trying to get some fitness indoors for the next couple of weeks.

Steve R

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#4 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 10, 2023, 11:22:42 pm
M. Rest.  Stretch.  Biked to work, 15miles round trip.
T.  Crimp block pulls on 15mm edge up to 57.5 kg.  set a problem.
W. Crimp block pulls up to 56.25kg.  Then board. Linked first 2 moves of project.  Not far off doing 3rd and hardest move in isolation.  Set a new moderate problem on board.
T.  Bench press.  Kept getting lopsided and didn't feel very strong.  Possibly got warm up wrong.  Got some reps out at 80kg but it felt heavy.  Push Press.  One arm kettle bell bench press - these felt great.
F.  Stretch am.  Criimp block pulls.  15mm edge.  sets at 55kg and 56.25.  Felt good. Out of interest and to hopefully find evidence that my fingers are getting stronger I tried 60 kg.  Unable to rep but did get it off the deck on both L+R sides.  Wouldn't have been able to this a few weeks ago.  Slow progress but progress none the less.  Board.  Felt really good.  Managed 3rd move on main project in isolation after quite a lot of tries.  Had a decent go on link, failing on 3rd move but not miles off.  Ticked problem I set on Wednesday and set another short and crimpy one.   Great session.
S. Rest
S.  Hasty Bank bouldering.  Abysmal cons, high temps and higher humidity but dry rock and mercifully no midge.  Eventually did Ace of Hearts, 7B ish at the landslip boulders.  Tricky one mover.  Cons too bad to think about trying the sit start (which looks good).  Tramped over to Cold Moor.  Only had time for a couple of goes on Trivial Pursuit sit start before getting rained off.  Seemed good quality and very nice rock.  Keen to come back for this and to try the others hereabouts.  Great day out.  Being able to try anything and get on some dry rock today felt like a bonus considering the forecast.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:02:47 am
A week of rock for a change! Quite spell at work, good tides and psyched company made lunch hits worthwhile

M - lunch session - Johnsheugh Southside. Rich still recovering from broken finger, so messed about doing the traverse, some eliminates and generally catching up. A bit too warm to try anything hard. Evening - Dyke's Cliff with Kyle. He wanted to complete the R-L traverse, but kept overgripping going over the rank pool, and not using rests. I think his reluctance to use chalk trashes his skin fast. I just did the traverse a few times, mosly the flat edge variant, and did a few eliminates.
T - evening run cut short bumping into mate who was cycling home, so only 2.75km.
W - not much, van to garage again. Fingerboard in evening.
T - lunch run to JH and back to meet Rich - 3.75km. Both did the high traverse I worked out last week, climbs well and good warm up. Put in some work trying to link up the sloper problem. Surprisingly, in spite of heat I could do the long move and match, and the moves from the sloper to the top, but no link, and warm rock trashed skin.
F - lunch run to JH and back to meet Rich - 3.75km. Rougher sea and tides not ideal meant platform was wet, so moved round to N Side. Did the 5+, 6A and excellent 6B problems (all deserve names, shame on Tim), before putting in some effort trying to repeat the harder direct start to the 6B. Managed to link in, but too gassed to finish up the 6B again. 12km run in evening.
S - Helped at kids' athletics meet all day, measuring for discus and raking for long jump. Too hot! Nipped down to Floors Craig for a short session with mates, 4.75km run. They were trying my low traverse, so had a quick warm up and jumped on, managed to get to shake out first go, but gassed out on the hard last section. Did the last hard section from the shake out a couple of times, but could see a link was unlikely, so didn't waste any more skin.
S - late session with Kyle. Back to JH Southside. Kyle did the traverse a few times, but was struggling with skin on the warm rock. Clouded over and got cooler, but stayed too warm for anything hard. I managed an eliminate we played on earlier in the week on broad slopey pinches, but couldn't do the other one on crap edges. cooler weather needed. Skin done!

On the rock 6 times in a week, unprecedented.

spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:19:15 am
M - some general stretching and conditioning
T - Wilton with a friend from Aus who was visiting. Did Sobeit and Loopy, which were both good. Nearly came off the top slab on Loopy but just latched the crimp in front of my face as I started toppling backwards. Spicy! Finished by doing Max through Alex's gear which was a nice warm down.
W - hot. Good drying weather.
T - hot. Long day of work.
F - hot. A bit of conditioning.
S - Gordale. Had only ended up there reluctantly as I couldn't get a catch for Wilton. No other climbers which was a surprise. Mike was on Last Days so joined him on that. Had a good working go as a warm up, did all the moves and remembered the Dogpoint section. Did not feel fit. Mike smoothly RPd it and I just about made it through the halfway crux on Dogpoint despite feeling tired. Shook out for an eternity before tackling the roof. An upside down biner on the long draw in the roof meant a lot more hanging around than was ideal, before I completely forgot my sequence to get to the mega jugs which meant I was absolutely terminally boxed by the time I attained the jugs. I shook out for ages, on terrain which you would find on a Lakes VS, but it became apparent this was as good as it was going to get. The top section is two fairly straightforward grooves that wouldn't be out of place on an E2 but I was absolutely haggard at this point and made a total meal of it. I nearly came off every single move and had to resort to a variety of totally improvised shakeouts as I remembered what to do. Finally I arrived at the top hold which had felt decent on the dogging go. Unfortunately it was unholdable in my fucked state and with disgust I realised that after fighting for 20 minutes on easy climbing I was going to drop it with my hand on the top of the crag. Resisting the inevitable I attempted to shakeout and magically my left hand dropped into a bomber fingerlock in the crack which made a shakeout plausible. I gibbered onto the water worn smooth rib at the top of the crag and fought to stay on as I put a draw in the belay and shook out again before committing to pulling up the rope and clipping it. As I lowered off I was drenched in sweat and totally bolloxed. I haven't been that tired on a route since attempting to climb in Rodellar. Awesome route, one of the best 7cs in Yorkshire for sure.
S - unsurprisingly tired. Took the dog for a walk around Hebden Bridge and scouted out the Red Rooster boulder and the Roost quarry. Both look good.

Cooler temps this week. Will try and commit to the fingerboard/wall and go to Malham later in the week I think.

Wellsy

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#7 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:31:17 am
Monday - cried. Fingerboarded. Talked about my feelings.

Tuesday - Roche Abbey, nothing special. Talked about my feelings more, no crying though.

Wednesday - Can't remember but feel like I did some benching and a bit of squatting and maybe some movement? Weird how fuzzy my memory of the week is. Felt better, was struck by how supported I felt by those around me.

Thursday - felt more better. No training but kept busy. Able to put my mind to other things.

Friday - Lots of thinking things through with myself and healing while taking the train to Liverpool to get a passport. Indoor session in the brutal heat, started incredibly unpsyched, but it came

Saturday - let skin heal. Went to the Ice Hockey where there were a few sick fights. Started to feel everything will be okay.

Sunday - Lakes, Kentmere. Got some easy blocs done, including Middle Earth 6C which I really liked. Rained off, went to Bowderstone, did some moves on Picnic Sarcastic, then got rained off (seriously it flooded). Mad trip back in near zero visibility and road flooding. Great day. Felt even better. Arranged a day to sit down with the ex and talk about things for a couple of weeks to clear the air more after how messy it was. Felt better about everything. Psyched to train and heal and do things I want to do for me.

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:44:18 am
Good man Wellsy, work though the processing.

Fiend

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#9 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:49:18 am
Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together  - yes...ish. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Make some plans for the autumn - no. Look after my elbow - just. Look after my body and mind overall  - one out of the two. Do a bit of training (e.g. mileage circuit) - yes but avoid getting fatigued or injured - just. Do some East-facing sport if possible to avoid the stupid heatwave - a bit.
The usual:Elbow rehab x 2 (added) - yes, Shoulder rehab x 2 - once, stretching x 3 - yes, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - a bit, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - yes.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. Reds full house: 34/34 (26 flash, 4 2nd go (silly errors), 4 worked (tricky or slopey)). Paced well and felt good. Tired at the end so skipped deadhangs. Shoulders coped okay, left arm golfer's elbow and right arm tennis elbow have both flared up. Shoulder rehab and elbow rehab.

T - Active rest - A little Easy Trad / light cleaning at Reddyshore Scout. Mint connies compared to the rest of the UK. Felt relaxed. Niggles vaguely okay, upper back tired but shoulders a bit less grumbly. Full stretching session.

W - Nothing. Niggles vaguely worse in morning. Better by evening. Apathetic mood. Should have stretched and done rehab.

T - Indoor cave routes @ The Depot. F6a, F6b (F6a+), F6c (F6b+), F6c+ (F6c), F7a+ (F6c+), attempted F7a (80%), attempted F7a+ (F7a, 99.5%). Fun despite the temps, especially the back and foot rests between stalagtites. Bewildering that they're graded 3 grades easier than the stamina circuits. Deadhangs on the minute: 5 x 10s @ 25mm, 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 3 x 8s @ 15mm. Skin / pulp burning white hot through most of that, hence didn't make all 15. Very brief cold water shock therapy treatment with a UKBer. Interesting. Might try trepanning or leeches next time. Stretching session. Niggles okay-ish. Messaged a few friends to touch base and try to get more involved with them, and posted similar on social media. Stressful experience and I'm not sure it came across effectively.

F - Active rest - recceing a couple of quarries and discussing plans with the guidebook boss. Elbow rehab.  Niggle behind right shoulder.

S - Easy sport @ Knipe Scar. 5 routes F6a+ - F6c, fell off a F6c+ due to a silly error. Quite pissed off but it was the end of the day. A couple of useful practise falls. Quintessential Dave Musgrove trad-sodomising carpet-bolted retro-crag, where almost everything is overstarred by 1 or 2 stars, but some fun moves. Obviously far too warm but body was doing okay.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Rock Over Bolton. 8 x V2-4 (6 flash), 8 x V3-5 (flash), tried a few V4-6 but couldn't concentrate due to sweat dripping into my eyes, and had the wrong trousers on. Vague niggle in LA golfer's elbow. Decent circuiteering otherwise. Deadhangs on the minute: 5 x 20s @ 30mm, 5 x 10s @ 20mm, 5 x 10s @ 15mm. Last set were fierce and satisfying. Vague niggle in RA tennis elbow. Some stretching. Had warmed up with Very Easy Trad @ Wilton 1 Allotment before rain came in. Same sweat issues but still fun.


Mixed week. Physically okay - made decent use of the awful weather and balanced out some decent training, some gentle activity, and not getting worn out by the heat. Feel like body is moving okay but frustrated with make silly mistakes on easy things. No Mistakes Allowed. Also need to keep being careful with elbow niggles - another week that's close to the limit.  Mentally so-so, trying to touch base with friends, close acquaintances and like-minded climbing partners did more to remind me how much of a crux hurdle this is to getting everything back on track, rather than reassure me.

Next week's STG: Make some plans for the autumn. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers. Try to take advantage of the better weather: Do something challenging on a rope outside, and ideally do something inspiring on a rope or above a pad outside, try to get away from Peak/Lancs/Yorks. Stay focused whilst climbing and avoid silly errors. Look after my elbows.
The usual: Elbow rehab x 2 (added), Shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).
« Last Edit: September 11, 2023, 09:55:35 am by Fiend »

Fiend

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#10 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 09:53:51 am
Also:

Duncan: Great Tuesday mission there.

Spidermonkey90: Great route write-up there.

Wellsy: Glad you've had some alleviation AND got to the Lakes.

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#11 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 10:08:03 am
Welcoming a much needed deload week this week. I canít be alone in how brutal I found training this week in the heat but very cool to see everyone cracking on and training hard despite the humidity!  :strongbench:

M - rest day


T - Blackwell - working 9-5 and Byker groove moves, pre crimp being reglued so felt nigh impossible!

Bench press incline power - 3 explosive reps at 50kg 2 sets

Bench press incline strength - 3 reps at 70kg 4 sets

Turkish get-ups at 16kg 2 reps 4 sets


W - rest


T - one arm iso +15kg 10 seconds 4 sets

One arm lifts +15kg 4 lifts 4 sets

2 arm 20mm 10 second hangs +30kg 6 sets

last session of French contrast training, first two I was well psyched, this one I dreaded as fatigue had built over the last 3 weeks.

45kg 3 reps
3 explosive pull-ups
35kg 3 reps
5 band assisted explosive pull-ups
4 sets

Extensor curls 10kg x 8 reps 4 sets


F - bouldering at Blackwell, terrible connies, everything condensed, still tried more 9-5 moves

Went depot to train after Blackwell
Density lock offs at 90 degrees
30 seconds x4 pronated and x4 supinated

Seated reverse Deltoid flys - 15kg x 4 reps 4 sets

Seated shoulder dumbell rotations - 10kg x12 reps x4 sets each arm

Trx IYT x3 4 sets

Shoulder dumbell press 20kg x4 4 sets


S - tor session on converter and fat lip, found some new beta on converter and itís gonna go for sure, just have to try it in good conditions now


S - depot training sesh, quick blast trying some comp wall blocs

40kg finger lifts for 10 seconds
Rack pulls 135kg x 6
Nordic curls x5 4 sets
Copenhagen planks
Extensor curls

Now for a much needed deload week

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 10:12:11 am
Eyesight is a problem, glasses donít work, and I need to sort out contact lenses if I do more.

Disposable contact lenses are the way, especially if you are only using occasionally. I only need them for skiing or getting in the sea, an order lasts me about a year. All the rest about DWS is good stuff, worth considering a thermal rash vest or the like to take the edge of the cold water, at least you don't need full a wetsuit in the SW, unlike up here.

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#13 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 10:22:00 am
Power Club

Mon - clean singles up to 97,5%. Then singles at 95%. One armers, tired. Back work.
Tue - board climbing, static, singles, crux links. Bad skin, still hot.
Wed - AM as usual; PM GM 3x3 120kg, then 5x3 with pause 100kg. High pulls. Back tired. Static holds.
Thu - AM as usual; PM double volume AM session.
Fri - AM as usual; PM boxing bag. 34į.
Sat - AM double volume.
Sun - weights.

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#14 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 12:42:30 pm
On the up!

Power Club:
M.
T. Longish warmup then climbed on the board, operating at about 50% of maximum effort I'd say. Finished off by getting pumped on my foot on campus setup.
W.
T. Similar to Tuesday, also did my first unassisted pullup post injury - somehow this felt way more dodgy than board climbing.
F.
S. 12hr day helping brother move house - sweaty
S. Board climbed again, staying somewhere between 50 - 70% of max effort.

Relieved to be doing some moves again. To my surprise I don't seem to suffer much afterwards either, but will continue to take it easy through September.

duncan

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#15 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September
September 11, 2023, 12:43:51 pm


Duncan: Great Tuesday mission there.

Spidermonkey90: Great route write-up there.

Wellsy: Glad you've had some alleviation AND got to the Lakes.

Thanks Fiend, it was supposed to logically lead me to West Penwith but the last bit didnít quite work out.

And plus one for the route write-up. What a battle! Lakes E2 is about Fr6c right!?

Eyesight is a problem, glasses donít work, and I need to sort out contact lenses if I do more.

Disposable contact lenses are the way, especially if you are only using occasionally. I only need them for skiing or getting in the sea, an order lasts me about a year. All the rest about DWS is good stuff, worth considering a thermal rash vest or the like to take the edge of the cold water, at least you don't need full a wetsuit in the SW, unlike up here.

Thanks Chris. I had an eye test earlier this summer but the chain contact lens shop were upselling like mad, claiming not to have the type/prescription in stock, and never got back to me. I wondered if I could get by with specs. but have learned my lesson!

The coasteers were all wearing some kind of  shorty wetsuits (?) which seemed a sensible choice.


SA Chris

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#16 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 11, 2023, 02:51:52 pm
Shorty is probably excessive and Neoprene can get a bit uncomfortable and sweaty.

I have an old version of this https://fourthelement.com/product/mens-thermocline-long-sleeve-top/ that is intended to be worn under a dry suit, and it's ideal for not being restrictive, but takes this chill off on the swim to getting put point, and can be take off and wrung out.

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#17 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 11, 2023, 11:34:58 pm
Power Club

Monday -
90% hangs. BW + 20kg. 3x10sec half crimp
90% hangs BW + 20kg. 3x10sec. 3finger open

Tuesday
Body weight +2.5kg repeaters


Wednesday
Rest


Thursday
Rest

Friday
Rest day

Saturday

Went back to Deep Rake in the evening.
Warmed up on  Lead Vein Thrombosis. Did the crux in isolation a few times. Rested 15mins then sent next go.

Been a long time since Iíve projected a climb. After falling off this route this mid crux 2nd go, I thought itíd be a quick Redpoint. But as climbs often do, 3 sessions later, on my 8th attempt I clipped the belay.

Sunday
Strength training at the depot.

1x10 8kg dumbbell chest flyes
3x8. 10kg dumbbell chest flyes
1x8. 5kg. Front & lateral raises.
3x8. 7kg. Front & lateral raises. Max effort
5x3 jumping pull up
5x3 pull ups +16kg
4x4 assisted pistol squats off footstool



Duma

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#18 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 12, 2023, 06:55:53 am
Nice one Gav!

Duncan Disorderly

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#19 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 12, 2023, 12:06:34 pm
Sweat club...

M: Horsethief with the GF - Did some F5s and F6b's
T: Sheaf bloc - New PE circuit, basically the old circuit starting at the furthest end with a new hard sequence into a shit kneebar rest (hard to actually rest) then the circuit crux to a relatively easy finish... Worked the lot but was too hot to do the crux in isolation (big span to crimp with one okayish foot and then dropping into a 1/2 pad pinch) so didn't make it far past the kneebar... Destroyed!
W: Run across Stanage to assist a mate who was doing all the starred VS's and 3 star HVS's on the most disgusting, slimy,  midge infested day of the year - brought him and his mate nets and repellant and called them idiots - a lot! Soloed some easy stuff in my fell shoes...
T: Fingerboard - Repeaters and core.
F: Nowt
S: Paddling down the Derwent - Perfect day for it!
S: Routes @ AW - F5 x 2, F6b x 2, F7b (dog), F7a (dropped top move because of sweat), F6c x2 (no rest)... Hot! Couldn't have been much more soaked if I'd stood outside in the rain....

Good week - Did a fair bit. Was a bit warm tho... Not long til Kalymnos now so just getting on the routes now and rehabbing those elbows (RH golfers isn't too bad, LH tennis isn't great but seeing Ozzy for a scan and assessment this week - she'll be right mate...)

Fultonius

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#20 Re: Power Club 712 3 - 10 September 2023
September 13, 2023, 09:33:58 am
First week in Slovenia.

Mon: 3.2km 420m ascent pre breakfast walk.
Post work climb in Senica, only time for 2 routes. 6b, then rematch on a sandbag 7a. Once again failed! Very techy and fingery with 2 tricky clips, fall above a ledge not ideal with light belayer. Faffed around figuring out the moves, hopefully it will go next time. Easily as hard as the hardest 7b at Dumby.

Tuesday:30 mins pre breakfast yoga/stretching.

Wed. Nowt.

Thursday: 3.2km pre breakfast walk, 320m ascent.

Friday: climbing at Nadiza near Kobarid, really nice wee crag. 5c, 6c onsight (punchy, always happy to onsight 6c in Slo.), 6b+. Drove to dolomites.

Sat: accidentally had a massive via ferrata day on Cattinacio d'Antermoia due to the rockfax guide worse than useless...), which was way, way more than our Dutch, inexperienced friends, were looking for.... 1500m ascent, 2300m descent, 20km as we missed the last lift back down. So much for the 1hr approach and 2hr via ferrata.......   :chair:

Sunday: nursing a lot of sore legs, blisters and sunburn, we just went for a stroll around a lake and a 200m swim.

 

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