[Fiend]

Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - no, delayed. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no, delayed. Make some plans for the autumn - no, tried a bit but no reply. Don't get carried away with Wiltonfest preparation - no. See if I can try hard again outside on a rope - no. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3 - just once, stretching x 3 (increased) - just once, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - a tiny bit, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - yes.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Active rest. Easy routes at Indepence Quarry and a bit of walking. A few pleasant moves but not really progressive. Didn't feel right for falling practise due to old-fashioned partner. Low mood. Mild tingly nerve pain coming down from neck / shoulders.

T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 10 Blues to warm up. 2 (two) Purples (1 flash). Tried another 8-10 and ended up going quarry cleaning early because it was more appealing. One of the most frustrating bullshit Purple circuits I've ever encountered at the Depot, with almost no overlap with the prior Reds, and obviously set by an Orange-level climber who doesn't put footholds on because they can power through moves so far beneath them. Finger-edge pullups, 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 1 x 5, 1 x 4 @ 15mm, felt fine. Arm / shoulder fatigue - 1.5 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Shoulders a bit sore but mild tingly nerve pain gone.

W - Active rest / recruitment - tiny bit of outdoor bouldering. A bit of pleasant pulling but not really progressive. Could have done stretching and shoulder rehab but struggling with self-discipline. Vaguely angry mood.

T - Active rest / arm fatigue - 4 hours scrubbing routes in Wilton. Wanted to do some training too but have been getting some warning niggles so didn't. Vague niggle in left golfer's elbow which I'm wary of, then again I'm getting all sorts of mild but strange sensations down my left side: sensitive side of face, elbow niggle, tingly senitivity in fingers, sore calf on waking, tender left edge of foot. Maybe derived from neck nerve issues?? Maybe signs of incoming stroke??

F - Indoor bouldering @ Depot. 27/30 Pinks (24 flash, 2 2nd go due to not brushing holds, 1 parkour nonsense worked), 2 DNF (comedy bullshit Purple-level toe-hook bullshit, and guaranteed injury crux lunge with high feet to top of wall), 1 forgotten cos I'm senile. Okay. Finger edge pullups: 2 x 5 @ 25mm, 2 x 5 @ 20mm, 3 x 3 @ 15mm. Slightly harder than last time but warmer and more tired. Full shoulder rehab and full stretching. Shoulders not too bad. Generally angry mood.

S - Semi-active rest. Wiltonfest. Some walking, a lot of talking. People actually climbed the routes we'd spent dozens of hours cleaning. Tired but less angry mood.

S - Active rest. Easy sport @ Robin Proctors. F6a+. F6b, F6b+, fell off a F6c. Quite pissed off, so just belayed. Too sunny. Tired. Shoulders fine to start, right shoulder tweaky and impinged afterwards for no reason.


Fairly dismal week with the only things feeling at all beneficial were one Depot Pink circuit, 20 mins worth of finger edge pull-ups, and 2 small practise falls. But I got Wiltonfest out of the way and did beneficial promotion for the guidebook and hopefully crag maintenance. So hopefully just a temporary blip. More aches and pains than even usual which I will have to be careful with - going to swap out edge pull-ups for deadhangs for now.


Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - actually do this. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - actually do this. Make some plans for the autumn - actually do this. Look after my elbow. Look after my body and mind overall. Do a bit of training (e.g. mileage circuit) but avoid getting fatigued or injured. Do some East-facing sport if possible to avoid the stupid heatwave.
The usual:Elbow rehab x 2 (added), Shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, deadhangs (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).

[Wellsy]

Monday - climbed outside

Tuesday - Board

Wednesday - lifted

Thursday - rested

Friday - got dumped. Utter misery

Saturday - utter misery

Sunday - see above

[Duma]

Hope you're okay Wellsy. And if not remember it will get better eventually.

M - back from festival, brief session at TCA in pm, mostly just pootling but did two blues
T - TCA eve, 90 min, new black set (low 7's) so tried those, but tbh too tired to make much impression. Think I did 4 or 5
W - run eve, 6k hilly trail, 29 min
T - TCA eve, blacks, too tired really but did a couple more.
F - shit work situation and tiredness caught up with me, bit of a mess by the eve and had to bail on dinner with mates.
S - Cheddar, more 7a's now the south side has reopened. Started on Ho Ho Ho 7a, bit of a fight through the nettles to get to the base but climbing went fine. First go today but I'd got through the crux at the end of June before being robbed by a rain storm. Then OS of Pirates of Lamb Leer 7a, pleased with this, excellent route and had to fight a little. Down to the road for Round The Bend 7a, very forgettable boulder problem off the floor to easier climbing, took a couple of goes to figure out the crux. Then trekked down the road and up the path to Sunnyside Terrace for the last of the list, Hang This Sucker 7a. Couple of mates also doing the 7a challenge were there and had the draws in. Not a classic route but super happy to finish all the 7a's with a few mates around. This silly little UKC ticklist I made in an idle moment last year when I realised how few routes there are of the grade in Cheddar, has given me and some friends many sessions of fun and taken us to some of the more obscure corners of the gorge. A few of the more unpopular routes are terrible, but some are great, and slogging through fields of nettles only to be rained off halfway up, or digging through ivy for 15 minutes to find the belay is much more memorable than another polished tick on the wave anyway.
S - Cheddar, mate was aiming for Spacehunter but could see a party on it already as we drove in so changed plan. Hilarious attempt at warming up on horseshoe bend, mate gave up on a 6a+ then took about 6 attempts to get up the neighboring 6c+, even with beta I took a couple of goes to do I've Started. Suitably humbled we went up to Burmese wall, managed a skin of the teeth OS of the excellent Mendipian Way 7a+, then took a couple of goes on My Sweet Gord 7b, despite being a little eliminate has some great sequences in the top half. Chris finished the 7a's too so brilliant day.

71.5kg

[shark]

Thanks Fiend, Commiserations Wellsy

M. AM. Warm up but not feeling it. Eve. Tor. Had been busy apparently. Just me at the end. 16 degrees no breeze. THFML x 2. Cross thru first attempt. Core felt great on toe release. Go 1 did crux to getting toe on pinch. 2 failed goes on Crux. 4th go to cross thru. Failed go then 6th go to cross thru.

T

W

T. Tor. Thought it was going to be good connies but actually a bit greasy. Messed around on Ben’s. Poor links. Couldn’t do throw. Achieved jack shit.

F. Eve Set off to France

S. PM Arrive at Les Gets

S. PM Hot. Walked to the local shady crag with Sonia. Went on the easiest quality route which was super steep but juggy though a bit hard at 7a. Sonia hadn’t belayed for a few years so messed about to give us both a bit of confidence. Dogged up then had a redpoint attempt impeded by short roping (and no I didn’t call her a cunt 😇) but got boxed and grabbed a draw and discovered I had acquired five flappers!. Stripped the route.

Having a bit of a crisis of confidence / direction / motivation / aspirations at the moment. Was going to say more but think I’ll just park it there for the time being.

[Aussiegav]

Hope everything pans out for you Wellsy. 

Monday -
90% hangs. BW + 20kg. 3x10sec half crimp
90% hangs BW + 20kg. 3x10sec. 3finger open

Tuesday
Campus at the Depot. Felt down on power.
5sets of 3. Weighted pull up BW +16kg
3sets of 8. Dumbbell Chest flyes 12.5kg


Wednesday
Rest


Thursday
Body weight repeaters

Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Rest day

Sunday
Went back to Deep Rake for the day.
Warmed up on a 6a. Then tried to Redpoint Lead Vein Thrombosis. Had 5 attempts, came off on the last move of the crux sequence twice. The other 3, I made stupid mistakes like changing my beta. Really thought I’d do it today after coming so close last Sunday on my second go. In addition to silly mistakes, the baking sun and warm weather didn’t help me.

Mixed day, my eldest managed to Redpoint his hardest climb. A 6a which he did quite comfortably, it’s 5th time climbing on rope. He was very happy, which was good as it’s been tough going for him finding a reliable job & somewhere to live.

I’m disappointed not to get the send, but that’s sport climbing……

[edshakey]

My tuppence, Wellsy, in case it's of any use...

That was me about 4 months ago. As other have said, and as I'm sure you know, it does get better - time's a crazy thing.

Hope you've got people to talk to - I always understood toxic masculinity to be men actually bullying each other for crying and shit, but it was quite a moment when I realised it also can apply to the feeling of not wanting to talk about it, out of some sort of deep self defence mechanism. Like I knew consciously that nobody would laugh in my face for wanting to talk, but somehow I always convinced myself out of it for all sorts of nonsense reasons.

(It sucks that it took the breakup of a long relationship to have this realisation, and speaking to others, that seems a common theme. If only we (men, maybe just people generally) never backed ourselves into this self destructive corner in the first place!)

When I finally did start to speak to people, it changed everything. It's no miracle, but I certainly wouldn't be where I am today if it was just me in my own head.

All of the above is an offer of myself as someone to talk to btw - I realise I'm just a stranger and you may well have plenty of people in your life to chat with, but on the off chance you're struggling for that, I'd hate to leave you hanging with no options.

In the meantime, hopefully you can keep the training ticking over - at worst, it does nothing for your mood but you still get slightly stronger

[SA Chris]

S. PM Hot. Walked to the local shady crag with Sonia. Went on the easiest quality route which was super steep but juggy though a bit hard at 7a. Sonia hadn’t belayed for a few years so messed about to give us both a bit of confidence. Dogged up then had a redpoint attempt impeded by short roping (and no I didn’t call her a cunt 😇) but got boxed and grabbed a draw and discovered I had acquired five flappers!. Stripped the route.

Ouch, which crag? I don't remember anything being horribly sharp, was it just some overgrown callouses? At least you are in a nice place with plenty of other things to do while it heals. Get a table at one of my favourite restaurants to get over the sorrow https://www.fruitiere-lesgets.com/

And commiserations Wellsy, it's never easy, roll with it as best you can.

[mr chaz]

Sorry to hear that Wellsy.

Power Club:
M.The
T. Slow steady warmup doing theraband exercises and foot on hangs. Then 30 mins holding positions on the board and tentatively doing some easy 3-4 move problems. Don't feel I can really pull in with right arm yet, but this is great progress.
W.
T. Same as Tuesday.
F.
Sat - Sun. In laws offered childcare so we managed to get away for the weekend in the van, lush. Remarkably little faff when you don't have to take a toddler, sort of missed it.

Recovery seems to be decent so working on a loose plan towards getting back out climbing by end of September.

[spidermonkey09]

M - DOMS from a single day out climbing the day before. Pathetic! Did some stretching.
T - Walk in the Lakes with partner and dog. First day out in an effort to get the Wainwrights ticked in our 30s.
W -bicep curls, shoulder presses, shoulder stretching.
T - as above, then Heptonstall in the evening with Will. Warmed up by flashing the Heppy Traverse. Did Forked Lightning Crack with Will's gear in which comically straightforward but enjoyable. Then an onsight go on Demerera , came off the last hard move absolutely bolloxed. Will had a go and confirmed the move was actually hard and found a better hold. Did it next go but felt tired.
F - bicep curls and shoulder presses. Drove to Suffolk PM.
S - party in the evening. Drank a bit but didn't go mental.
S - drove back home.

Another week where social engagements got in the way of climbing a bit. Story of the summer, but its probably better to have some variety. Hot weather this week better for the psych. Will try to actually do some training.

[Wellsy]

My tuppence, Wellsy, in case it's of any use...

That was me about 4 months ago. As other have said, and as I'm sure you know, it does get better - time's a crazy thing.

Hope you've got people to talk to - I always understood toxic masculinity to be men actually bullying each other for crying and shit, but it was quite a moment when I realised it also can apply to the feeling of not wanting to talk about it, out of some sort of deep self defence mechanism. Like I knew consciously that nobody would laugh in my face for wanting to talk, but somehow I always convinced myself out of it for all sorts of nonsense reasons.

(It sucks that it took the breakup of a long relationship to have this realisation, and speaking to others, that seems a common theme. If only we (men, maybe just people generally) never backed ourselves into this self destructive corner in the first place!)

When I finally did start to speak to people, it changed everything. It's no miracle, but I certainly wouldn't be where I am today if it was just me in my own head.

All of the above is an offer of myself as someone to talk to btw - I realise I'm just a stranger and you may well have plenty of people in your life to chat with, but on the off chance you're struggling for that, I'd hate to leave you hanging with no options.

In the meantime, hopefully you can keep the training ticking over - at worst, it does nothing for your mood but you still get slightly stronger

I have been talking to a lot of people, all the time, and it has helped a lot, I can't imagine what it'd be like to go through without that. I am not ashamed to admit I've cried a lot, every day since, and that sometimes it is overwhelming. I'm not anything close to okay, but I hope I will be in time. I am not being self-destructive or falling back into poor behaviour which is good at least, I think.

Thank you all for your kind words. And to people who reached out privately too. It definitely helps.

[edshakey]

I have been talking to a lot of people, all the time, and it has helped a lot, I can't imagine what it'd be like to go through without that. I am not ashamed to admit I've cried a lot, every day since, and that sometimes it is overwhelming. I'm not anything close to okay, but I hope I will be in time. I am not being self-destructive or falling back into poor behaviour which is good at least, I think.

Thank you all for your kind words. And to people who reached out privately too. It definitely helps.

That's good to hear, sounds like you're doing the right things at least. All the best for the coming week.

[duncan]

All the best Wellsy.

Simon, jwi's recommendation of nappy cream appeared to work very well when I tore chunks of skin from a couple of fingers sailing off Foil a couple of years ago. Also, ruthlessly cutting off any skin that's come unstuck but you probably know this.

Another slightly frustrating week with the right elbow issue ongoing, a stomach bug, no climbing, and only one concert.

M - Swim in the murk.
T - Shoulders/Elbows conditioning: handstands, side-planks, lock-offs.  Fingerboard pick-ups, left hand only, progress to 31kg with a 3 finger crimp on a 10mm edge. Jon Hopkins with the BBC Symphony orchestra and singers at the Proms. What they said: “a 22-minute psychedelic drone epic for orchestra, choir and piano”. What is was: orchestrated electronica, which veered towards film music much of the time. I prefer him in unorchestrated form.
W - Swim.
T - Shoulders/elbows as above. Feeling poorly.
F - Whole family poorly. A few hip stretches
S - Not so poorly. Shoulders/elbows as above. Pick-ups as above.
S - Feeling better, rest of the family not so much. Hip stretches, hip/knee conditioning: single leg squats, frog squats. Walked 12km. Picnic and short swim in the Thames at Henley.

Plan: down to Somerset and beyond for family and some very easy trad.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - GM 105/110 5x5 straight back into it goddammit. Then paused GM. Rack iso holds. 23° and rainy, are you kidding.
Tue - board climbing, static and short links on current project. Back work.
Wed - AM as usual; PM bar work, farmer's, push press. Completely screwed pre workout nutrition.
Thu - AM as usual; PM boxing bag.
Fri - double volume AM session.
Sat - full snatch high pulls, high pulls, push press (heavy)/iso holds. Short on time, tired.
Sun - boxing bag; stairs.

[Dingdong]

Absolutely knackered today so had to move some training to later in the week to have a rest day.

My training this week has been exactly the same as last weeks except I did two extra days of climbing Saturday and Sunday day that I shouldn’t have which I think may have pushed me over the edge. Woops 

Other than that I did send Paint it Black and got close on 9-5 (shorty way so probably truer to the grade)

[SA Chris]

aim - at least 1 garagw woody and 2 fingerboard session a week.

M - 10km run, warm but felt ok. ITB feeling a bit tweaky at top of fibia, a niggle I've not had in about 5 years.
T - dropped  car at garage at lunchtime and ran home 7km. Garage woody session.
W -  walk / run to work 5km. walked to get car
T - lunch boulder session on the coast. too hot to do much, made zero progress on project. Put together moves on a traverse that will be a fun link. Mowed a bit of lawn before mower ran out of petrol...
F - not much, did last minute packing and drove.
S - Scout Camp. Knackering
S - Scout Camp, knackering. Intended bouldering at B10 Dundee once it was done, but weather too good, so planned going climbing at Arbroath Sea Cliffs, only to realise when unpacking I had just grabbed usual climbing wall bag with rope, harnesses but no quickdraws. Went for a walk instead to go look at some route for Kyle to do at a future visit... 

[shark]

Ouch, which crag? I don't remember anything being horribly sharp, was it just some overgrown callouses? At least you are in a nice place with plenty of other things to do while it heals. Get a table at one of my favourite restaurants to get over the sorrow https://www.fruitiere-lesgets.com/

Pont Des Gets on Mon Lieutenant a very overhanging 7a on rough rock with knobbly holds. I tend to drag holds especially when pumped. The type of holds I’ve used over the last couple of months have been either friendly or crimps. Taped up today for Foron which is also rough and it was tough on the skin.

I’ve been very narrow in what I’ve done over the last couple of months in particular and now paying the price in this and other ways.

I’ve had some priceless counselling from Rob Greenwood though

Sure you'll get back on the horse again, or whatever the analogy is. Just make sure it's the right analogy and you don't fall off the wagon

Thanks for the restaurant tip!

[webbo]

 It is rather warm out here at the moment. I’ve been pedalling and came through Les Gets yesterday and I was so hot there’s no way I could imagine climbing. Apparently it’s going  to get hotter as the week goes on, so putting in mat was a great idea.

[Fultonius]

Monday: nowt
Tuesday: light fingerboard session while on a long call at work, some pullups, pressups.
Weds: nowt, packing
Thursday: Drove to Dover
Friday: Ferry to Calais, drove to Dahn (Pfalz)
Saturday: One route at Hochstein, too fecking hot but quite a fun 5b ish crack thing, drive to Munich and camped in a weird trailer park place.
Sunday: Drove to Villach, did a few routes at Kanzianiberg, fell off a 6b (slipped out a damp pocket), drove on to Slovenia.

[Steve R]

M.  NYM bouldering.  Started at Clemmitts which I haven't been to for ~10 years.  Dirty and overgrown as no one climbs there after it was nonsensically banned a few years ago.  A real shame since it's one of the best and densest bouldering areas on the moors.  Was actually on the wrong side of the hill for catching any wind so bailed to Camp Hill on the other side which had decent cons and wind.  Just did a bit of circuiting about up to low 7s.  Nice rock and great spot, nice to revisit again after many years.
T. Rest
W. Returned to Cringle Crags for Insuforia with Dave.  Great cons there this time - almost too cold initially with the wind.  Perfect evening's headpointing - we both made good, solid leads of the route after a couple of top ropes.  Top quality route, climbs better than it looks (as with lots of the moors sandstone stuff) and nice to do the 2nd and 3rd ascents too.
T. Rest
F. Crimp block pulls up to 60kg on 20mm.  Board.  Managed a crimpy 7b+ which is the hardest thing I've done on there for quite a while.
S. Rest
S. Crimp block pulls up to 55kg on 15mm.  Board again.  Worked some things.  Ticked a soft 7b in a couple of goes.  Kettlebell floor press.  L Sits. Goblet squats.

Much lighter week with no weights stuff due to work hours and days spent climbing outside/wanting to be fresh for climbing outside.  Need to stretch more.   

[teestub]

M.  NYM bouldering.  Started at Clemmitts which I haven't been to for ~10 years.  Dirty and overgrown as no one climbs there after it was nonsensically banned a few years ago. 

and is still currently banned according to the RAD, does this need updating? Says negotiations were ongoing.  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clemitts_crag-8277/

[SA Chris]

Pont Des Gets on Mon Lieutenant a very overhanging 7a on rough rock with knobbly holds.

I've walked down there for a look (my aunt and uncle's old place is the auberge with the Heineken sign just up the road), but it's usually covered from the icefall! Didn't think the rock looked that great. Do you have the Arve Guide too?

[shark]

Pont Des Gets on Mon Lieutenant a very overhanging 7a on rough rock with knobbly holds.

I've walked down there for a look (my aunt and uncle's old place is the auberge with the Heineken sign just up the road), but it's usually covered from the icefall! Didn't think the rock looked that great. Do you have the Arve Guide too?

I know where you mean. Was closed when we walked past. The rock is good on the 7a apart from the groove at the top which had signs of hold loss. Being North facing is handy in this heat. Just have the Giffre, Risse, Foron guide - (borrowed from Ian P 4 years ago IIRC  )

[SA Chris]

Yeah, it's privately owned, and I think they only spend time there at weekends and winter.

There are good routes here https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/la_frasse_and_treydon-10181/#photos just off the road from Taninges down to Cluses, signposted towards St Sigismond and Les Carroz. I can send you info if you fancy a look. 2 grags from the same parking spot, but very different.

[shark]

Thanks - hadn’t come across those crags. Looks like the options in the low 7’s are limited though and there’s enough at Foron to keep me going.

[Steve R]

M.  NYM bouldering.  Started at Clemmitts which I haven't been to for ~10 years.  Dirty and overgrown as no one climbs there after it was nonsensically banned a few years ago. 

and is still currently banned according to the RAD, does this need updating? Says negotiations were ongoing.  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/clemitts_crag-8277/

I think it probably does need updating, though not entirely sure to what.  Sorry PCers this is getting off topic, perhaps should post somewhere else....
My understanding is it's one of those venues that's now best approached as a 'don't ask, just go' situation.  There are clearly no good reasons for people to not boulder there.  There was a trials motorbiking competition event there last weekend with courses on and immediately adjacent to the boulders.  Scroll down the posts on this facebook page for videos.  The Danby Estate must've known about/sanctioned this event.  Personally, I don't immediately have a problem with people trials biking there, on organised days at least, but if that's deemed ok then I think it's fair to reason that people should be able to boulder there.