[shark]

11.13

M.

T. In a barn in Devon. Front lever practice. Set of recruitment and speed pulls on S7 campus rung. Progressive 6 sec supinated locks on S7 campus rung at BW, 15, 20, 25, and 30kg then 3x 6secs @ 35kg to as a way to train specifically for Bens crossover move. Might sort a one arm set up when home

W.

T. Gardening. Eve Drive back from
Devon

F. Late start. Home warm up. Tor. Busy. Hot but decent breeze. Objective was to find out which of the three methods to go with for the cross over move on Bens. The new foot beta of RF on foothold below porthole felt more natural and with less foot faff so I’m going to stick with that from now on. A few goes from crux with best go just failing to get foot on pinch. Tired after that and it was getting hotter. Moved onto X. No ladder     Low ledge too wet to try JR. Had a few goes on the starting section of Moffatrocity. Home. Short play doing supinated one arm locks on new half pad edge with feet on skirting board in house slippers.

S. PM Ergo Edge BW 3x3 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 6 secs 3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x1 pull-ups 10, 10 and 10secs +25kg FC 6 secs HC 4 secs and Drag 5 secs. Also incorporated some more foot-on one arm undercut locks.

S.

Becoming increasingly obsessed with Bens and will concentrate on that for a bit now I think I’m making a bit of progress. The new foot beta seems good for the cross through. Think I’m close to nailing the middle crux section now and once solid I can start trying to redpoint which hopefully should be less frustrating than before now I can consistently do the crux static.

Was good with diet and no booze during week but got derailed at weekend 

[Duma]

M -
T -
W - walk
T - walk, run, 7k hilly, trail (actually quite a bit of no trail, ie bushwhacking)
F - swimming
S - walk
S - swimming, sailing

?kg

[Steve R]

Signing in please.

M. Squats, bench press, some stretching
T. Despite trying to go easy on yesterdays squats, lower body doms too severe to climb/jump off so just crimp block 20mm pick ups 5 x 5 sets + weighted pull ups 5 x 5 sets
W. rest. Just stretching. Doms still present in legs
T. deadlifts + related.  Barbell roll outs.  cycled to wall pm.  Some plastic problems, some board. Crimp block pick ups.
F. Voluntary gardening work am - couple of hours fairly hard work moving and barrowing compost material.  Sore abs from yesterday's roll outs.  Generally tired.  Went to see Oppenheimer pm, fell asleep for one bit.  Good elements but 2* movie at best, wouldn't recommend.
S. Watched challenge cup final.  Great final.  Rest. Did some stretching.
S. Wall pm.  Felt good, finished some problems I'd tried on thurs.  worked some board problems.  Crimp block 20mm pick ups up to 60kg.  Weighted pull ups 5 x5 at bw + 30kg. leg raises off bar 6 x 3.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - regular DL up to 130 kg. Good mornings 5x5 105/110. Snatch grip GM with pause 5x3 100 kg. One armers. Lattice edge.
Tue - board climbing, static and short links on current project. Back work.
Wed - cleans, a lot of singles from 95 to 97,5 %. Shoulder barbell holds. Amazing session, I got an ego boost as if I'd gone to my local bar and flirted with Chloe Sevigny.
Thu - boxing bag, AM session.
Fri - AM as usual; PM bar work and barbell holds.
Sat - AM as usual; PM double volume AM session.
Sun - AM as usual; PM double volume AM session.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. 30 mins arm rehab pulls and theraband.
W.
T.
F. 30mins of arm rehab pulls and theraband. 1 month post injury and seeing a pretty good improvement, giving me hope.
S.
S. 3hr walk over Shropshire Hills carrying a toddler. 20mins doing arm rehab pulls and theraband. Gradually hung bodyweight on 2 arms very tentatively to see how it feels. Slight soreness, nothing major, but probably leave it another few weeks before attempting again.

[Fiend]

Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - no. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Weather better so will aim to make a bit of progress on my bits for the Lancs guide - yes, lots. Will aim to try harder to get set-up to do practise falls outside - no, and do some physically challenging climbing / training in some form - yes. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3 - only 2 but stretching too, stretching x 2 - yes, 3 times, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - no, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - n/a.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training if needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - A bit of outdoor bouldering. Did a 6C/+ project, tried a 7A/+ project. Felt similar to March on the latter so maybe regaining some capability. Shoulder stretching and shoulder rehab.

T - Indoor bouldering @ Rockover Bolton. 10 x V2-4 (flash), 8 x V3-5 (6 flash), 6 x V4-6 (flash). Good fun. Shoulders tired after. Shoulder rehab and stretching session.

W - Active rest: Photoshoot / checking @ Egerton. Got a bit cold in the evening and shoulders stiff and RHS upper back sore.

T - Active rest: Photoshoot / checking / cleaning @ Deeply Vale. Did NOT get a bit cold in the evening and shoulders much better.

F - Active rest: A bit of light trad climbing. A decent bit of exercise but didn't discipline myself to look for opportunities to practise falls.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Blochaus. 6 x V2-4 (flash), 7 x V3-5 (5 flash), 4 x V4-6 (2 flash), 1 x V5-7. Tried several other V4-6 but too much novelty "missing footholds" type setting. Stretching session after.

S - Active rest / recruitment / minimal bouldering @ Pigeon's Cave, 1 x 6B, 1 x 6B+, a few attempts on 6C/+++. A decent bit of exercise but a bit busy to stay focused, possibly fatigued from previous day. Shoulders tired and RHS a bit impinged to start. Stretching session in morning.


Decent week. Definitely ticked the "physically challenging" box in terms of bouldering mileage and a bit of outdoor projecteering, definitely failed to tick the "falling practise" and "touch base with friends and groups" boxes. Which means I guess the physical side is doing better than the mental side - although the Lancs visits were pretty social and community orientated. Had another physio session with Biscuit which narrowed things down to "internal rotation" in my right shoulder so have more specific exercises, also he approved of the basic shoulder stretching I'm doing. At least with the shoulder issues I can still pull a bit.


Next week's STG: Take a rest day. Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - I really need to do this, it's a struggle without it. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - and this. Other aims depend on weather / temperature / etc - but try for a good mixture of challenging / community-orientated. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 2, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).

[Wellsy]

Monday - Crossfit. Did my first ever Rx workout! 9 ring pushups then 200m with two 24kg kettlebells. Then 15 and 200m, then 21 and 200m. Pleased.

Tuesday - Anston. Tried Chucklevision Stand, seems v hard but did several moves. Did a couple of eliminate-y iterations of the right hand side of the Wave Area. Felt strong apart from fingers which are still coming back. Didn't climb that well. Bored of Anston and will not go for a while tbh.

Wednesday - Went to Burbage. Climbed various v easy things. Repeated Tiger. Had a good time but wrecked my skin.

Thursday  - Back off squat day, 70kgs for 5 pause reps. Benched singles up to 90 which went fine. Pretty close to being back at 95 which is my all time max and pushing to 100+ then. Fingerboarded and got another 30kg added weight hang for 10 seconds, pleased. Fingers slowly coming back.

Friday - Made in Sheffield. Ideally my winter project. The little gaston next to the pinch has broken off so tried going straight to the pinch, got it several goes. Feels harder than anything else I've tried, tbh it feels harder than Crazy Horse at 7B! Reckon I can do it though. Good session. Psyched. Skin wrecked unfortunately.

Saturday - Should have rested. Had a big session at the Hanger instead, which felt good but knackered me out. As a result...

Sunday - Went to Roche and got extremely mad at myself for not resting enough as I fluffed doing Bad Habits sit and I actually wanted to do it quite badly and tried hard. My pulling strength was just dead and my skin was so raw, just touching the holds hurt. V annoyed at myself for falling into my old ways. Went to gym and squatted (95x5, 3 sets) benched (75x5, 3 sets) and split jerks (60kg pb).

Headgame: Bad, hopefully improving. Physically strong, tactically dumb. Need to get more outdoor climbing in. Feeling angry at myself BUT at least that means I want it, which is good.

[Coops_13]

Two weeks

M: Weather window opened for me to have a second crack at King Critter but it closed the minute I got up to Lincoln Lake parking - c'est la vie when climbing at nearly 4000m… Back to the board for a power hour.

T: Density pickups RH (tweaked finger) to 40lb OH, 30lb HC no pain - think it is just tenosynovitis flaring up. Bench press 195lb X3 *3, Chest fly, Inclline chest press, Shoulder press, Bicep curl, Diagonal raise, Svend press, Bar dips. 30 mins peloton, huge PR - first time over 400kJ in 30 mins.

W: Hangs 2A 20mm 7s up to +80lb. Short board session focused on hovers.

F: Travel to UK

T: Boulder Shack Southampton. Session on the board with a mate and some boulders

F: Board session at Blocfit Brixton

S: Travel back to US

S: Empire. Newly developed boulder by the creek. Feeling heavy and week after a heavy week of drinking in the UK. Managed to do the line of the boulder, Beaver Fever V5, fairly quickly. Then spent rest of session falling off a V7/8 two-part dyno. 20 mins peloton when home

[duncan]

M - Fingerboard pick-ups 3 finger crimp on 18mm down to 10mm edges 31kg x 7 seconds (6 each hand).
T - Drove to Font./Moret sur Loing. Swam.
W - Rocher d’Avon. Met a lad who was studying at INSEAD and, more importantly, in possession of a monster Snap pad. Did various easy stuff and tried Jeu Que Dalle (6C) together until darkness stopped play. Swam. Shoulder conditioning. 
T - Touristing in Paris. 12km walk. Not great for my hip. 
F - La Roche aux Sabots en Famille. Mostly about encouraging the lad but did some easier stuff too. Good fun. 
S - More touristing.  Also swam 500m.
S - Early start for Rocher d’Avon. Back to Jeu Que Dalle, slightly high for my thin mat but fortunately the grovelling finish went smoothly. Franchard Hautes-Plaines for some easy stuff with the lad.

Always good to be in France in general and Font. in particular. I got up a 6C, more than I was anticipating before the trip. Hip pain is helped by the swimming but is more inflexible than ever, a considerable issue here. Happily it survived the occasional short drop onto my tiny pad. 

Booked trains to Avignon in mid September for a return to Verdon with the rope gun. Very excited.

[Wellsy]

M - Fingerboard pick-ups 3 finger crimp on 18mm down to 10mm edges 31kg x 7 seconds (6 each hand).
T - Drove to Font./Moret sur Loing. Swam.
W - Rocher d’Avon. Met a lad who was studying at INSEAD and, more importantly, in possession of a monster Snap pad. Did various easy stuff and tried Jeu Que Dalle (6C) together until darkness stopped play. Swam. Shoulder conditioning. 
T - Touristing in Paris. 12km walk. Not great for my hip. 
F - La Roche aux Sabots en Famille. Mostly about encouraging the lad but did some easier stuff too. Good fun. 
S - More touristing.  Also swam 500m.
S - Early start for Rocher d’Avon. Back to Jeu Que Dalle, slightly high for my thin mat but fortunately the grovelling finish went smoothly. Franchard Hautes-Plaines for some easy stuff with the lad.

Always good to be in France in general and Font. in particular. I got up a 6C, more than I was anticipating before the trip. Hip pain is helped by the swimming but is more inflexible than ever, a considerable issue here. Happily it survived the occasional short drop onto my tiny pad. 

Booked trains to Avignon in mid September for a return to Verdon with the rope gun. Very excited.

I'm jealous! Nice one on the 6C lad

[Wellsy]

Incidentally went back and did that 7A today. Pleasing

[duncan]

I'm jealous! Nice one on the 6C lad

Thank you! Classic case of moves feeling impossible to start with but gradually become possible then quite straightforward. Top was still a mess of knees and bellyflop.

Young, bouncy and keen Frenchman with a big thick mat was encouraging.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Holiday Club

M: London
T: London
W: London
T: Wall with daughter - did a couple of new MB problems up to 6B...
F: Drive to Portland
S: Portland - Battleship back. Some ace routes up to F6c and tried a nails F7b that required a long throw and hold that particularly aggrovated the dodgy shoulder... Not one for me then!
S: Portland - Battleship back. Tired for some reason, did a F6a to warm up then got cold while the energizer bunny dogged another F7b... Had a pop on TR but long RH lockoff at crux meant that I again decided that it wasn't for me (could literally hear my elbow shouting at me to fuck the fucking fuck off!) - Jus successfully RP'd it to salvage a particularly unsucessful day for us both...

Nice to get to Portland again but found it hard to read - Decided that F7a+ RP's would probably need to be the order of the day for me after getting shut down by 2 F7b's that seemed to target my 2 long term injuries....  Nice to be out on dry rock again tho.