[duncan]

Jet power club, which is not how I'm feeling.

M - Westway TRing. 8 easy routes /100m of up. Elbow not pain-free but was improving.
T - Swim. Got cold much faster than usual so got out after 15 mins. Fingerboard pickups, 10mm edge, 4 finger full crimp 31kg x 10s (left hand only). 
W - Tired and achey all over. Did a little gentle elbow and shoulder conditioning: side-planks etc.
T - Tired. Did a few fingerboard pick-ups (mostly left hand).
F - Still bleurgh. Did a little lower leg conditioning/stretches: heel raises, frog squats.
S - Less achey, still tired. Fingerboard pick-ups to 3 finger crimp on 10mm edge 31kg x 7 seconds (6 left hand, 4 right hand). Went for a short walk but was wiped out by this.
S - Still tired. Didn't do anything.


Had a bug most of the week which left me feeling a bit wiped-out. Tested negative but kept exercise to a minimum. A few pick-ups don’t seem to trigger general fatigue.

Off to France tomorrow for a family holiday but may scramble on a Font. boulder or two if I feel up to it. Unfortunately I had to miss out on a DWS induction session yesterday but hopefully will be rested, fit, and raring to go when I get back.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M. France
T. France
W. Returned from summer holiday - everyone exhausted.
T. Injury rehab. Pretty sure I've done a partial tear of the right latissimus dorsi tendon. I'm now on 3 weeks of solid rest and mostly pain free except for throwing action and downward pulls. Plan is to start doing general strengthening and mobility stuff in that area (press-ups, pushing exercises, therabands) then to build up with some light hangs using a portable fingerboard on elastic. I have experience from a previous bicep tendon injury which is giving my a bit of confidence in this approach.
F.
S. Some very light downward pulling using elastic hangboard system - maybe 20 - 30% bodyweight, feet firmly on floor, 20 mins.
S. Little bit of soreness in affected area.

[Duma]

M - mildly disappointing work news
T - discovered context of above news, really pissed off. Eve run, 6k hilly trail 26 min
W - still pissed off.
T - slightly less angry. Eve TCA, new whites (high 6's) tried to do whole set in a session. 32 problems,  20 flash, 6 second go, 2 took a few attempts, 3 failures (plus one which I forgot about and didn't try).
F -
S - 12hr shift
S - 12hr shift

71.5kg

Shit week. Annoyed about work, elbow still a bit sore, didn't get much climbing done, and won't be able to climb for a couple of weeks now.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag, surprisingly good (in terms of training - I'm still shit at boxing). The magic of electrolytes and aminoacids.
Tue - BM pockets after a while. Bad skin hindered last third of the session. Then a very few singles on current project, very poor. Back work.
Wed - AM as usual; PM a few press singles, again ribs muscles pain stopped play early. Stairs and hill sprints. Ab wheel.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - ab wheel, thruster, back work. Short on time, tired.
Sat - thruster, snatch, high pulls. Tired, then woke up but time stopped play when I was just getting started.
Sun - boxing bag.

[Wellsy]

Monday - Crossfit. Can't remember exactly what. Think it was hang squat cleans at 40kgs and double unders

Tuesday - Good board session

Wednesday - max hangs, up to 6 sets for 10 secs 25kgs added. Good kilter board session, flashed 7A. Did some other climbing. Weighted pullups at 30kgs.

Thursday - Benched up to 70 for 5, 3 sets. Squatted 120kgs. Massive new PB, 10kgs more than prior. Extremely pleased

Friday - rested

Saturday - 30kgs for 12 seconds on the fingerboard, post injury PB. Poor board session. Bit of indoors. Out on Saturday eve, no sleep at all Sat/Sun night.

Sunday - Bit of good volume at the Hanger. Squatted 95kgs for 5, 3 sets. Benched 75kgs for 5, 3 sets. 3x3 30kgs weighted pullups. Watched crossfit games. Slept

[shark]

11.13

M. Woke up with sore forearms. Clearly overdid something last week.

T. Forearms still sore. Tor with Mina. Reasonable first go on the AM headwall but had nothing left on the second tie in and stripped it.

W. Forearms feeling better

T.

F. Home warm up - more intense than usual. Tor. Warmish and breezy - ok conditions. New foot beta for cross thru has potential. Best go crux to doing the kick then starting to do foot set up. Bit disappointing. Plateaued? Getting a bit fe up of the Tor

S.

S. Ergo Edge BW 3x3 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs +12.5kg FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 7secs  3x2 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x1 pull-ups 10, 9 and 10secs +25kg FC 4 and  4 secs HC HC 2secs so finished. Disappointing though conditions not good
Deadlift singles 95kg, 115kg, 130kg and 135kg. Amazing how this has come back so quickly after a couple of dabbles. Think my past PB has been 145 or 147.5kg.
Drove to Devon

Bit of a crap week overall. Really fed up with weather which has limited options. Been looking back at training diary today to work out what will be best to do in prep for trying to tick Bens.

[Fiend]

Last week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - no. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - no. Weather looks pretty mixed, so assuming I'm going to do more indoor training, try to increase the intensity a little bit as body feels okay - yes. Do more basic shoulder stretching - a bit. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3 - only x 2, stretching x 2 - no, rest day x 1 - inadvertantly, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - yes, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day) - no
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training of needed) to avoid injury, try to rally support and inclusion amongst climbing partners.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad, try to regain some confidence in going further afield.


M - Nothing. Extremely low mood.

T - A few sport routes @ Stoney West, mostly F6a-b and one soft F6c+. Fragile mood, just going through the motions, and having to try hard on the last route wiped me out. Wasn't in the right state for falling practise. Shoulder rehab.

W - Indoor routes @ AW. 6 routes: F6b, F6b+, 2 x F6c, 2 x F6c+, attempted 3 x F7a. Decent-to-good falling practise on all of them. Given the stiff grades at AW this felt like increasing the intensity. A bit more mildly social and met a lovely 5 month old corgi at the pub after.

T - Active rest. 1.5 hours quarry cleaning. Kept it gentle and wasn't fatigued. Shoulders stiff.

F - A bit of outdoor bouldering, trying vert 6C+-ish stuff. A bit below par but decent crimp training. Shoulders stiff after and upper back / neck stiff and sore.

S - Indoor routes @ SU. 10 routes: 3 x F6b/+, 6 x F6c+ (all of them), 1 x F7a. Decent falling practise on most of them, and a good big fall at the end. Another day that felt like increasing the intensity slightly from last time there. A few tricky droppable moves in classic SU style, but didn't feel too tired on them. Shoulder rehab before. Shoulders stiff after but noticeably better than Fri.

S - Active rest / recruitment. Explored Angel Bay, did a few moves on a couple of 6C+s (body felt good from the start) but tide came in before it felt like a session. Sunbathing and a bit of shoulder stretching.


Okay week overall especially given the start of it was fucking dire mentally - which made it too hard for me to do the climbing/existence-essential STGs of touching base with friends and also local communities. Aside from that it was okay and reasonably maintaining - the two wall lead sessions were good, normal falls are starting to feel mundane and I feel my stamina is slowly returning. Lack of stretching was also due to mental state. Lack of finger-edge pullups was a bit of an omission as I had good opportunity to do so.


Next week's STG: Touch base with several friends to try to maintain contact and be more involved with positive experiences together - I really need to do this, it's a struggle without it. Re-introduce myself positively to some local climbing online groups to try to have more options to be involved with local climbers - and this. Weather better so will aim to make a bit of progress on my bits for the Lancs guide. Will aim to try harder to get set-up to do practise falls outside, and do some physically challenging climbing / training in some form. The usual: Shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 2 - and I also need to do this, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day).

[Wellsy]

Sounds like a frustrating week for a few of us

[SA Chris]

Had a bug most of the week which left me feeling a bit wiped-out. Tested negative but kept exercise to a minimum.

Sounds like me, only I tested positive. I only did a test because I got a tick on me last week, and flu symptoms are an indicator of possible Lyme's so, I was relieved it was only COVID again. Managed Parkrun and a wall session on Saturday last week, but that was it.

[seankenny]

I was relieved it was only COVID again.

It’s worth remembering that 10% of covid infections for anyone over about 12 years old turn into long covid, so that a minimum of three months of sickness, but obviously could be years of ill health or even permanent disability. From my limited understanding, it’s pretty similar to Lyme disease. I’m sure I could find some studies that show various other increased risks from covid even without that, eg for diabetes, heart problems, etc, and of course there may be longer term health problems that we don’t know about because there’s not been a longer term yet. I’m absolutely not having a go, “only covid” is a society wide problem. Even with vaccines it can be really nasty and that possibility is very much minimised - the cynic on me suggests to save money on widespread air filtration (which has been done in many government offices in Whitehall) but I suspect simple exhaustion plays a part too.

It’s worth pointing out that plenty of people get better after an initial covid infection and then go on to develop long covid several weeks or even months afterwards. Very much hope that you dodge that particular bullet!

[Stabbsy]

  As someone who previously ran an average of 40 miles a week, I’m currently struggling to do any running without my heart rate going sky high. I’ve run about 10 miles in the last month.

This comes after mild Covid over Christmas, long-ish recovery of 2 months to get back to any sort of normal running, returning to racing again in May and then massive relapse 5 or 6 weeks ago after a cold (not Covid) only this time it feels worse and seems to be taking longer to clear.

[SA Chris]

It’s worth pointing out that plenty of people get better after an initial covid infection and then go on to develop long covid several weeks or even months afterwards. Very much hope that you dodge that particular bullet!

Apologies if that sounded flippant. I am sure lots of people are getting it at the moment, assuming it's just flu and not even testing. I got it in April last year, even after 3 x vaccinations, so at least know what it feels like, and that I will probably make a full recovery. I am taking it easy and not rushing back to trying to 100% immediately.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Moonboard Club...

M: Nowt
T: Moonboard (2019@25) - Best session ever! 8 problems up to 6B then tried 7A project - did it 3rd go! YYFY... Found another 7A and only bloody flashed it! Shit the bed!
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: Moonboard (2019@25) - Not to be outdone by the last session this one was even better! Another 7A flash and a 7A+ 3rd try... WTF?!?!?!?
S: 5 mile yomp in the rain with the daughter...
S: London bound....

Light on volume, high on power! Surprised myself, twice!... I do think all the 7's I did were soft (possibly 6C+ at best) but there's some definite improvement going on - feel snappier and stronger for sure... Another week or so of this then it's stamina and PE in time for Kaymnos late September.... Psyched!