[Paul B]

There’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!

Care to name them?

[abarro81]

Ditto, my ability to do them or not do them seems to come and go with the wind.

Mine* increases when I do lots of trying them and/or when I'm light and decreases when I don't do them and/or I'm heavy. But I don't know if I'm allowed to say that nowadays 

*referring to a "climber's one-armer", I've never done a real one

[36chambers]

Ditto, my ability to do them or not do them seems to come and go with the wind.

when you weigh as much as a packet of crisps I imagine the wind does wonders for your one armers

[Bradders]

There’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!

Care to name them?

I suspect what he really means is if one is already strong enough to do a one armer then that is 'easier' beta (or less complex / quicker), albeit it is in no way the physically easiest way to do the move.

You'll be thinking of Chiggers, Greenwood Tree and Madding Crowd at Lees right Carlos? Because I can do the ends of those no problem but can't touch a one armer; logically if the one armer beta were easier I wouldn't be able to do it at all. I think this is often the blind alley strength training can lead people down; just because you are strong enough to do it a certain way doesn't make it the easiest way.

Not to say that arm strength isn't really helpful in lots of boulder problems.

[Paul B]

I feel I now know Johnny Brown's pain from approaching 20 years ago when he tried to have similar discussions with my younger self  .

[mrjonathanr]

One day years ago I tried Bored of the Lies and kept falling off at the top. We detoured via the Tor on the way home and I comfortably did a (climber’s) one armer off the Weed Killer jug. I’m stronger on the rock now but can’t do a one armer.

My takeaway: one armers don’t have much to do with route climbing ability. Maybe a bit more relevant to boulders?

[Dingdong]

There’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!

Care to name them?

I suspect what he really means is if one is already strong enough to do a one armer then that is 'easier' beta (or less complex / quicker), albeit it is in no way the physically easiest way to do the move.

You'll be thinking of Chiggers, Greenwood Tree and Madding Crowd at Lees right Carlos? Because I can do the ends of those no problem but can't touch a one armer; logically if the one armer beta were easier I wouldn't be able to do it at all. I think this is often the blind alley strength training can lead people down; just because you are strong enough to do it a certain way doesn't make it the easiest way.

Not to say that arm strength isn't really helpful in lots of boulder problems.

Yeah those are some of the ones I was thinking of, of course it’s all down to each persons individual strength so some people will find campusing the end easier than faffing about with low feet, especially if you’re shorter/lighter - this probably leads onto: training what suits your body type and strengths

[Wellsy]

Again, I don't want to do them cos they're great for climbing, I just want to do them because I want to do them.

I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!

[Dingdong]

Again, I don't want to do them cos they're great for climbing, I just want to do them because I want to do them.

I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!

Personally I think it’s great to have non-climbing strength goals anyways. As you say, they will help towards climbing anyways plus they’ll keep you psyched to keep doing S&C!

Go get ‘em wellsey 

[Paul B]

I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!

If you don't have the strength to overpower a move, you look toward finding an efficient way of doing it. Once you have that strength, you'll rely on it when you shouldn't.

[User deactivated.]

I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!

If you don't have the strength to overpower a move, you look toward finding an efficient way of doing it. Once you have that strength, you'll rely on it when you shouldn't.

I disagree. If a strong way of doing a move is easier for an individual, then I think this is usually the best technique for that person on that move (in the context of Wellsy being a boulderer) and should be relied upon. Other techniques will be learnt on the majority of problems where strength alone won't cut it.

I've never had to do a one armer on a boulder problem, but being able to do them means I've never hit the limit of my pulling strength while climbing either. I'd always rather be strong than not.

[Wellsy]

I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!

If you don't have the strength to overpower a move, you look toward finding an efficient way of doing it. Once you have that strength, you'll rely on it when you shouldn't.

Yeah I'm pretty shit at climbing relative to my strength, but that's okay. I get plenty done and I like strength training.

I could write a defence of it from a bouldering perspective (along Liamhutch89's lines) if I wanted but I realistically think its just as much of a reasonable goal to want to do a one armer as it is to squat 130+ kgs this year. Ultimately I wanna do some hard boulders and I'm not gonna get there by not getting strong as fuck. I also want to do one armers cos they're cool. And they happen to overlap somewhat, which is nice

[Paul B]

Other techniques will be learnt on the majority of problems where strength alone won't cut it.

My point is it's harder to do so because you lose the subtlety when you're used to/able to overpower things. This comes from fairly bitter experience and having to spend a vast amount of time going back to doing copious volume on much easier things (and if you want to go all look at me, I could bosh multiple 1-armers out pretty comfortably whilst simultaneously being a technical dunce). I had a hallelujah moment on a route at Cheedale Cornice where I burnt off several technically more gifted/skilled climbers using a foot sequence.

Yeah I'm pretty shit at climbing relative to my strength, but that's okay. I get plenty done and I like strength training.

My prediction is you'll hit a glass ceiling and get bored.

I could write a defence of it from a bouldering perspective (along Liamhutch89's lines) if I wanted but I realistically think its just as much of a reasonable goal to want to do a one armer as it is to squat 130+ kgs this year. Ultimately I wanna do some hard boulders and I'm not gonna get there by not getting strong as fuck. I also want to do one armers cos they're cool. And they happen to overlap somewhat, which is nice

If it makes you happy then so be it. However, if your ultimate goal is to be a better climber then I'd strongly recommend getting technically good and efficient before adding what sounds like a greater focus on strength.

[Wellsy]

Getting technically good and efficient is easier said than done. I spend a lot of time trying to do that, which is how I know that its easier said than done, and I also like strength training, and I'm going to learn to do one armers too, cos I want to. And my prediction is I will do them, in fact

[Droyd]

"If the only tool you have is a one-armer, it is tempting to treat everything as if it were a campus move."

[Wellsy]

Again, I know it's not the best for climbing I just want to do it as a S&C goal

[iwasmexican]

personally I got to being able to one armer just campus boarding and campusing boulders- much more fun and specific to climbing than just pulling

if it was good enough for ty its good enough for me