I'm surprised you're not pretty close with those stats
Quote from: PeteHukb on August 01, 2023, 08:19:01 pmI'm surprised you're not pretty close with those stats I’d say that’s about right, I’m around 179% atm and can one arm clean on my left but not my right arm.I also think Paul is right, tbh it’s no more than a party trick which can injure you quite easily hahaI must say that I think OP is pretty far out from a strict one arm. But probably quite close to be able to do what I like to call a ‘climbers one-arm’, i.e. a one-arm with a jumpstart.Most people need to get to about 170-180% bw pull-up to be able to do a one-arm from deadhang
Seriously, do something else with your time OP. Most of the folk I know who used to bang these out (properly) avoid them like the plague these days.
edit.. then we got a bachar ladder and the world was our oyster forever after
Yeah it's a strength goal. Having a powerlifting total of 400kgs wouldn't help climbing much either but I'm aiming for that this year too.I did 3x3 pullups at 30kgs added weight yesterday and cruised em, so reckon I'm ready for a nice new block. I think my weekly sessions will be; 3x3 weighted pullups at perhaps -4kgs below my 3RM i.e RPE 7-8. 3x3 assisted one armers at RPE 7-8. And then 3x8 unweighted wide grip pullups and 3x12 low rows for general pulling strength. I think that's a good mix of beneficial for climbing and pushing towards my one armer goal.I think that'll
There’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!
Ditto, my ability to do them or not do them seems to come and go with the wind.
Quote from: Dingdong on August 03, 2023, 03:22:12 pmThere’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!Care to name them?
Quote from: Paul B on August 03, 2023, 07:14:49 pmQuote from: Dingdong on August 03, 2023, 03:22:12 pmThere’s also loads of climbs on peak lime for example where you smash to a lip hold and it’s way easier to basically once arm campus the moves over the lip than to try and front lever into polished feet under the roof!Care to name them?I suspect what he really means is if one is already strong enough to do a one armer then that is 'easier' beta (or less complex / quicker), albeit it is in no way the physically easiest way to do the move. You'll be thinking of Chiggers, Greenwood Tree and Madding Crowd at Lees right Carlos? Because I can do the ends of those no problem but can't touch a one armer; logically if the one armer beta were easier I wouldn't be able to do it at all. I think this is often the blind alley strength training can lead people down; just because you are strong enough to do it a certain way doesn't make it the easiest way. Not to say that arm strength isn't really helpful in lots of boulder problems.
Again, I don't want to do them cos they're great for climbing, I just want to do them because I want to do them.I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!
I do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!
Quote from: Wellsy on August 04, 2023, 07:34:50 amI do think all this training for em will probably not be bad for climbing though!If you don't have the strength to overpower a move, you look toward finding an efficient way of doing it. Once you have that strength, you'll rely on it when you shouldn't.
Other techniques will be learnt on the majority of problems where strength alone won't cut it.
Yeah I'm pretty shit at climbing relative to my strength, but that's okay. I get plenty done and I like strength training.
I could write a defence of it from a bouldering perspective (along Liamhutch89's lines) if I wanted but I realistically think its just as much of a reasonable goal to want to do a one armer as it is to squat 130+ kgs this year. Ultimately I wanna do some hard boulders and I'm not gonna get there by not getting strong as fuck. I also want to do one armers cos they're cool. And they happen to overlap somewhat, which is nice