[shark]

11.12

M.

T. Plan was to go theCornice but it had crapped out. Home warm up. Tor with Mina. Still and a bit humid. Wasn’t feeling it and had a dodgy stomach. Belayed Mina, investigates reinstating the large hold that had come off the start of Indecent. Nearly got sucked in trying Bens with Carlos the psyched.

W. PM Home warm up then Tor with Sonia and dogs. Hot and deserted with a bit of a breeze. As per Sunday on Ben’s but took more goes to do the crux but got the same link as Sunday but was tireder in warmer conditions which is some kind of improvement I guess

T Eve BW 3x4 pull-ups FC, HC and Drag deadhang 10, 10 and 10 secs +12.5kg 3x3 pull-ups FC HC snd Drag 10, 10 and 10sec FC, HC and Drag +17.5kg 3x2 pull-ups 10, 7 and 10secs +25kg FC, HC and drag 3x1 pull-up FC 5 and 6sec HC 5 and then couldn’t hang. Several pull ups only just beyond breaking lock. DL singles 95kg, 115kg, 130kg, 135kg fail (note to self - weigh bar) Finished after midnight. Destroyed by end.

F Tommys graduation in York

S

S Had planned to go to Tor again but got a report back that it was awful

With global warming I’d forecast a 20% increase of perfect weather for July so had to implement some course corrections which regrettably required some cuts in climbing options and time spent on rock and a slower than forecast improvement in gainz.

[Dingdong]

Nearly got sucked in trying Bens with Carlos the psyched.

I’ll get ya next time 
Thanks again for the beta!

[Duma]

M - eve, TCA, 60 min. Was going to run but not psyched. Wasn't really psyched for the wall either so sacked it.
T - eve, Cheddar, lion rock. Sketchy forecast but decided to chance it after not getting out last week. Got about an hour in before the rain... Dogged up to get the draws in and refamiliarise. Took a few goes to remember the final few significant moves after clipping final draw. Started to rain as mate was finishing his turn, decided to wait it out and at least try and link ground to the arete as it seemed to be staying dry to that point. Irrelevant since I climbed the lower wall badly and fell on the tricky moves through the overlap. Did at least link hole to arete comfortably, then dogged wet upper section and stripped it.
W - great weather in eve but couldn't get out
T - great weather in eve but couldn't get out. Went to dinner, drank a fair bit, didn't sleep very well.
F - great weather in eve but couldn't get out. Desultory hour at TCA, not feeling it. Did one blue.
S - run, 6k, damp, hilly, trail, 32 min
S -

71.5kg

Fucking weather. TBF I'm feeling a bit burnt out and left elbow may have a slight niggle, so a light week was probably a good thing. Be nice if the only wet evening during the week wasn't also the only one I could get a partner for though...

[Wellsy]

Monday. Crossfit. 30 American Kettle Bells Swings, 20 cals on the rower, 10 burpees jumping to a bar and a strict pullup. AMRAP 21 mins. Died. Finger rehab evening.

Tuesday - Mate's board. Not a great session, felt slow and weak

Wednesday - easy climbing, felt good. Squats up to 95kgs for 5. Bench 5x5 for 70. Finger rehab.

Thursday - rested, was ill.

Friday - also ill.

Saturday - Felt much better. Fingerboarded and injured finger felt WAY better. Flashed various yellows at the works. Saw Barbie with like 15 goths. Fucking incredible film.

Sunday - Fingerboarded then morning board session at the works, best in months. Felt so strong. Several 7As done in an hour! Tried harder projects. Brilliant. Squatted up to 90kgs for 5, 3 sets. 5x5 Bench at 70.

[Fiend]

Good title this week, I feel like I've had a bit of course correction overall.

Last week's STG: Depot circuit (subject to neck pain) - yes, reintroduce finger edge pull-ups (the only thing I've felt okay on in the last month) - no, skipped due to outdoor bouldering, shoulder rehab x 3 - only x2, stretching x 2 - no, must try harder, I can feel seankenny judging me already, maybe some Welsh bouldering - yes, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - definitely yes.
MTG - keep incrementally regaining capability, do regular increasingly large falling practise, try to stretch bi-weekly, keep rehabbing (and moderating training of needed) to avoid injury.
LTG - regain physical capability for F7a o/s, F7b+-ish r/p, to be able to take into trad.


M - Active rest: 45 mins light quarry cleaning. Belayed an recent Woman Who Has Climbed F8a on a headpunt (I'm getting soft), got some inspiration for working up to trying hard on trad again.

T - Indoor bouldering: Depot 31/34 Reds, 28 flashed. Easier circuit than usual, good mileage, only started feeling fatigued in mid 20s, 3 DNFs were all weird nonsense. Got sarky reply from Paz on FB when I posted about it, so defriended him. Shoulder rehab after - shoulders a bit sore and quite tired overall. Antihydral overnight.

W - A bit of outdoor bouldering. 8 problems 6A-6C. Felt tired (inc shoulders) at the end but okay.

T - A bit of outdoor bouldering. 6 problems 6B-6C. Felt tired (inc shoulders) at the end but okay.

F - Rest. Woke with prominent pain behind right shoulder. Rest of shoulders felt okay so probably more sleeping niggles. Diet of painkillers. Eventually did full shoulder rehab and it felt much better. Next time will try rehab before painkillers. Intense 4 hour Lancs guidebook meet, tiring.

S - Indoor leading: Big Depot Leeds. 2 x F6b, 4 x F6c, 4 x F6c+, 7 good practise falls (had to skip a few as JulieM had a sore back). Good session, felt steady, only slightly tired at end, shoulders okay (less sore than last week's lead session on the same day). Red F6c+ left of steep wall was especially nice.

S - Indoor leading: Awesome Walls Sheffield with Duncan Disorderly. 2 x F6b+, 3 x F6c, 3 x F6c+, 7 practise falls inc a couple of nicely long ones. Good session, felt steady, only one ridiculous AW sandbag. A couple of the main wall falls were particularly satisfying as they were starting to feel normal. Not particularly tired at end. Two black F6cs either side of main wall were especially nice.


A good week. Pleased with the volume, pacing, and practise falls, and skin maintenance. Felt like I was keeping the standard at a steady level which is sensible right now, and feel I could increase it slightly.


Next week's STG: Shoulder rehab x 3, stretching x 2 (actually do it this time), rest day x 1, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, reintroduce finger edge pull-ups (unless I'm trying anything hard the next day), maybe a board session if I feel okay, maybe some outdoor sport to see if I can start transferring the indoor mileage to that, at least a session doing some Lancs stuff.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - bar work, goblet squat and press.
Tue - lethargic in 37°. Weights, back work. Girlfriend said "I thought you were doing some board climbing." Put in front of my duty and ashamed by my weakness, I immediately changed into my climbing shoes, because the girlfriend is always right. Static and crux links on current project.
Wed - farmer's 30" ×12 110 kg. Overhead carry 1' x6 45 kg.
Thu - AM as usual; PM bentover rows, empty bar work, shrugs.
Fri - theraband and TRX.
Sat - regular weights.
Sun - French ball, boxing bag. Exhausted.

[Wellsy]

Girlfriend shame is the ultimate motivator

[Nibile]

Girlfriend shame is the ultimate motivator

Especially when camouflaged as a casual remark...

[Duma]

Saw Barbie with like 15 goths. Fucking incredible film.

Haha, this sounds great fun!


Good week Fiend

[Coops_13]

M: 30 mins light peloton

T: Mt Evans, Area D - after work mission. Second session on Slander V9. Warmed up, did all the moves in isolation then fired it off first go. Very psyched. Hid under the boulder when a massive storm rolled through before the hike out - epic evening


T: One arm warm up down to -30lb both sides. Board session. Sent three long-standing board projects, psyched!

F: 30 mins peloton

S: Hike to American Lake near Aspen. 6.7 miles, 2000ft ascent

S: Couple of hours bouldering at Independence Pass. Spent c.45 mins trying to find Vivid Walls. Managed to send Savage Thoughts V6 second go but couldn't put away a neighbouring V7 - was trying a harder beta as the easier way was a it sketch with one pad and no spot

[Duma]

Slander looks brilliant!

[duncan]

Title also applies to me.

M -
T -
W - Swim in the murk. Shoulders and elbows conditioning.
T - Westway TRing. 4 easy routes, elbow sore after. Kenny Barron Trio at Ronnie Scott’s, fabulous.
F - Swim.
S - Legs conditioning: single leg squats, frog squats, heel raises.
S - Swim. Got stuck behind three Hampsteadites, paddling slowly having a conversation about their Peloponnese holiday homes. Overtook them on the second lap, pushed too hard to get away from them, and suddenly found myself tired, cold, out of my depth, and a bit far from an easy exit. Good to be reminded of my considerable limitations in water in a controlled environment. I can see how things could quickly get messy if you had to spend longer than you anticipated in the sea and there was a bit of a swell so you had to work hard to make any progress...

Hip sore, elbow troublesome. Didn't feel like I was missing out on much given the weather then had a message on Sunday evening from a mate who’d been up on Craig an Dubh Loch. Not Helpful!
 

[seankenny]

stretching x 2 - no, must try harder, I can feel seankenny judging me already,

No judgement Fiend, but you know and I know - you’ve let power club down, you’ve let yourself down, but most of all, you’ve let your hamstrings down.

[Fiend]

stretching x 2 - no, must try harder, I can feel seankenny judging me already,

No judgement Fiend, but you know and I know - you’ve let power club down, you’ve let yourself down, but most of all, you’ve let your hamstrings down.

You've let the UKB quote system down tho, buttface!!

[Aussiegav]

Power Club

Monday -

Half Crimp 95% max. 6sec 3sets.
BW plus 20kg.
3 finger open. 95% max. BW plus 25g


Tuesday
Rest


Wednesday
Depot
4x4 boulders red circuit

Thursday
95% max hangs.
BW + 20kg. Half Crimp 3hangs
BW + 25kg. 3 finger open. 3 hangs

Friday
Rest. Picked up eldest son from airport, moved back to Sheffield. So great to have him around again. He’s psyched to climb.

Saturday
Went to the Depot with eldest. He thinks the Depot is amazing.

5x3 jumping pull ups and finger board warmup.

5reds flashed. 4 purples. Only managed 1 purple, flashed

Sunday

6x 10. Single arm overhead press. 10kg
6x 10. Lawnmower starts. 22.5kg
4x4. Chest flyes. 12.5kg

45min Peloton ride.

Snagged free tickets to Tramlines for the weekend.  Had a great time.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sore Elbow Club:

M: Took boat out to Sands End for a maiden sea paddle - Fun!
T: MB @ AW (2019@25) - 5 problems up to 6A+ then tried a few 6C+'s and 7A's to see what worked - found a couple of possibles. Had decided to not try 6C that had me stumped but decided to give it one go! Only bloody did it! YYFY!! - 5 Fucking sessions!! Pretty sure F9b's have been done quicker (by climbers who are both young and good I'll add - but still!)
W: Rest - Elbow rehab
T: AW with daughter, she did well, I pottered - Elbow rehab
F:Rest - Elbow rehab
F:Rest - Elbow rehab
S: Routes @ AW with GF and Fiend - Fun session, nowt hard (up to F6c) managed to drop 2 F6c+'s being dopey - Elbow not too bad but really not happy with clipping or deep locks...

Funny week - Definitely feeling injured, made progress, did mileage...  Outside would be nice....

[Will Hunt]

Went to the wall on Tuesday and a mooch about Hawkcliffe on, I think, Thursday.
That's it.

[SA Chris]

Sounds like my week. Managed a fair bit of walking, 2 x runs, 5 km and 8km, and a session at TCH London, which was too hot and a bit poky. And a swim in an outdoor pool in St Albans.