[shark]

Knocking on door of 12 stone

M. AM Tor with Mina. Connies again! 11 degrees with a good breeze to start with. Dogged to AM headwall. Did top half straight off (moves 7-12) then lowered to hole and did moves 1-9 including getting RF across onto broken foothold. Really pleased with that. Next tie in climbed from top of Push Up to Prow hole and had a rest. One abortive go up established conditions had got greasier but next go led from hole to clipping bolt on headwall (moves 1-7). Had a few goes trying Mina’s beta on first few moves but busted after that. Impressive quick redpoint of Anger Management by Mina in worsening conditions only just catching and reeling in  the final hold on the last hard move. Quick play on Bens but obvious I was too tired for it.
Home Ergo Edge HC. BW x 10 secs +7.5kg x 10 secs +15kg x 10 secs  +22.5kg 7, 8 and 6secs. FC 7 and 6 secs Drag 6 and 5 secs

T

W. Autumnal. AM Home warm up Moat with John. Gusty, cold - genuinely hard to stay warm even with a down jacket. Had a session on the burly and bouldery Excalibur 3 months ago and was close so confident I’d get it this time in these conditions. One go up to reacquaint with the moves then 5 redpoint goes refining the moves with each attempt and getting weaker in the process. First 4 failed to get the pocket and 5th go somehow got it but fingers uncurled on moves above just before the kneebar rest. Dammit.

T.

F. Summer again. Home warm up. Mooched at Tor. Didn’t feel fully recovered. Several goes on middle two moves on Bens. Core requires work. Watched a buzzard circling around. Took dogs for a dip. Took the most scenic route home.

Home Ergo Edge. Felt greasy. HC. BW x 10 secs +7.5kg x 10 secs +15kg x 9 secs  +22.5kg 6, 5 and 2 secs. Deadlift 95kg x 5.    (Think bar weighs 5kg) 110kg x 5. 120kg x 3.

S BBQ

S Bit hungover

Weather all over the place this week. Was thinking I should take a few days out and with hindsight should have skipped climbing and training on Friday. Not sure how this week will go but booked to head out Mon, Weds and Thurs. If burnt out can always just belay.

[Duma]

Nice links Shark, redpoint attempts soon?

M - eve, TCA, all oranges downstairs to warm up, then upstairs for new comp wall set. 10 problems 6B - 7B, flashed 6, 1 in a couple of goes, 1 (sideways slab jump) lots of goes. Got high on both the other 2 but couldn't finish off.
T -
W - eve, Cheddar, Lion Rock. Cold! Mostly done the stuff I can here but mate was keen. Got back on Lion Sleeps Tonight 8a. Had been on it once about 5 years ago but written it off as I found the traverse and arete so hard. Much better today - 1st go dogged up just getting draws in but didn't do any links. 2nd go linked ground to undercut rest where it splits from Shadow Walker (7c to here?), and found a much better sequence to the arete and for the crucial clip. Top arete still hard though. 3rd go pulled up the draws to the undercut rest, then linked to the top. Pleased to get it in halves quickly, and to remember the lower half well enough to link it 7 years after I did Shadow Walker.
T - felt ruined in the morning, but ok after a couple of hours. Eve, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 27 min. Think this is as fast as I've done this loop.
F - binned planned lunchtime session as slept terribly the night before.
S - TCA, 90 min, new blacks (low 7s). Hot and humid, low psyche. Flashed 4, did 4 quick, brief attempts on 9 others.
S - TCA 90 mins, more psyche but low energy, still hot and sticky. More blacks, flashed 3, another quick, 1 more after a bit of work. Couple of goes on another.

71kg

Good week, going back to Lion Sleeps on Tues.

[Duma]

Oh and I guess it doesn't matter but the dates should be 3rd to 9th, not 4th to 9th

[Coops_13]

T: Empire. Been at sea level for basically a week so went to this lower area (c.9200ft). Still felt the altitude and it was a bit wam. Figured out moves and sent Road Warrior, classic V7 of the area. Moved onto Ye Olde but couldn't work out top before the storms came. 30 mins peloton.


W: Hotel Gym. Leg press. Seated chest press, incline chest press, shoulder press, bicep curls, diagonal raise, svend press. 20 mins peloton, PR.

F: 30 mins peloton

S: Emerald Lake to start, Spent abut an hour on Real Large V9. Made more progress than last year but undercuts sore on my wrists. Moved on to the Hallett Boulder area. A further 40 mins hike above Emerald Lake - amazing up there. Tried Golden Ice V7 but a bit too crimpy for me. Worked out moves and managed to send an old Dave Graham V7/8 - so good to top the Hallett Boulder. Went in search of Farewell to Arms and found it just as the heavens opened. 4.35miles, 1500ft ascent.


S: Hike to Crater Lakes. 7.1miles, 1459ft.

[Aussiegav]

Power Club

Monday -

Half Crimp 95% max. 6sec 3sets.
BW plus 20kg.
3 finger open. 95% max. BW plus 25g


Tuesday
Campus

Tired tonight

2-4-5

2-4-6
- L❌
- R
- L❌
- R

2-5-5.5
- L
- R❌
- L❌
- R

4x4 30sec circuits

5 sets of 3. Weighted pull ups BW + 8kg


Wednesday
Rest

Thursday

Half Crimp 95% max. 6sec 3sets.
BW plus 20kg.
3 finger open. 95% max. BW plus 25g


Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went to the Depot.
5reds. All flash. 5purples. 3-4 tries max. Did1. 2nd go.
5x3 jumping pull up. 5x3. Weighted pull up. BW + 8kg
6x 10. Single arm overhead press. 10kg
6x 10. Lawnmower starts. 22.5kg


Sunday
45min Peloton ride.

[duncan]

Thanks Simon, sounds promising for the height of summer.

M - Westway with csl. Warmed-up with the usual shoulder and elbow conditioning. Some easy-ish leading and fall practice. Left shoulder was a bit tweaky, so I didn't push things. Good social evening, planning csl’s next big trip!
T - Legs conditioning: single leg squats, frog squats, heel raises.
W - Brief fingerboard session: 20mm and 14mm four and three finger drags.
T - Westway aerocap./ long endurance. 44 easy routes, ~550m up and down, about an hour and a half climbing in total. A good session, tired but not completely busted afterwards.
F - Shoulder conditioning. Walked 8km.
S - Fingerboard. 20mm and 14mm four and three finger drags.
S - Fingerboard 20mm four finger crimps, very brief, mostly just practising the form. Legs conditioning. Walked 8km.

A reasonable training week, though I feel I’ve spent much more time watching others exercise than doing so myself! I managed a fingerboarding PB, possibly even a helpful one: 3 fingers on 14mm is quite representative of the kind of holds I’m trying to use on various projects. My FBing is currently all very passive and I’m going to take a couple of steps back and aim to build up my crimp strength too. I should be bouldering but my hip isn’t up to any kind of fall at the moment.

Back to the fall practice after a lapse. I’ve done about 200 so far this year and dropping off with a bolt by my ankles still felt pretty casual which is encouraging.

Down to Weston with hopefully a visit to Uphill this week.

[mr chaz]

Missed a few weeks, but basically been keeping up with 2 board sessions a week.

M.
T. Evening board session - good one. Set and sent a new problem, about 6 hand moves long and definitely one of the hardest I've done on there.
W.
T. Evening board session - not great. Partner had some shit news about a family member, really couldn't get into the right headspace for training. Managed about an hour.
F.
S.
S. Easy walk at the Roaches with family. Leo (18 months) had his first taste of gritstone bouldering, he was a natural! Board session in the evening - repeated problem from Tuesday and confirmed it is indeed pretty hard.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - through the crux on Baboo and then, under the kosh, irreversibly wrong-footed myself starting the headwall sequence and had to jump off, completely snookered. Shocking.

Sa - Kilnsey. Clipsticked up The Bulge. Did all the moves, except maybe that off the bowling ball, which I didn't really enjoy. Felt a bit tweaky. Will probably come back but not sure. Later went up Sponsored Hero which is nice but unfortunately takes in what must be the shittest rock on the crag. Also did that route with the stupid long name - Floccin.... Impressively shit and nowhere close to 7b unless you do some completely bullshit eliminate.
Lots of piss taking. Good day out.

[spidermonkey09]

Remain convinced the Bulge is objectively shit but gets a massive write up because people are addicted to steep crap climbing over good vert climbing.

[remus]

I've had a few sessions on it recently and it's pretty good imo. Fun corner moves out of the first rest, funny half rest before the top section (should I go? Am I actually getting anything back here?) and then some long, sapping moves where skipping the clip helps a lot. It's not the ashes but it's got plenty of character.

[SA Chris]

M - 10k run. Fingerboard session.
T - First surf in god knows how long. Speculative punt on a mediocre forecast, got down late, knowing low tide was at 9. Busy, but crowd soon thinned and lovely clean lines coming in, got a load of great waves, burst by about 10 due to lack of fitness, but so good to get in after ridiculous flat spell.
W - hill reps. 6.5km / 200m hot and humid.
T - Hedge cutting. Knackering.
F - nipped out for lunchtime session at Johnsheugh. Great conditions, overcast and strong southerly. Warmed up at home, so straight on project, went down first go. Not sure of grade now, had initially thought 6C, now think it might be easier in cooler weather. Worked moves on extension, but need spotters / more padding as it involves a scary high foot lock in a crack. 6km run in evening, but felt knackered. Weights in evening.
S - Up to Rosehearty / Katy's Leap. Long drive, but worth it, stunning place on a sunny day. Southerly still blowing, pleasant down on the N facing crag. Both Kyle and I did a load of good stuff, but thin skin from yesterday got trashed pretty fast on the granular rock. Kyle braved a sea swim, definitely take fishing  / snorkeling kit next time, the water looks clear with some great dropoffs.   
S - not much, only woke up about 9:30. Local walk with family, some weights in evening.

[spidermonkey09]

I've had a few sessions on it recently and it's pretty good imo. Fun corner moves out of the first rest, funny half rest before the top section (should I go? Am I actually getting anything back here?) and then some long, sapping moves where skipping the clip helps a lot. It's not the ashes but it's got plenty of character.

Yeah, its probably worth a star but not a mega classic as you're led to believe from the guide I don't think. Its a game of opinions! I just don't think the moves are that good (awkward, off balance), the holds are weird and the only good bit of climbing on it is the last clip or so. Also, I find it hard and can't do it 

[abarro81]

Remain convinced the Bulge is objectively shit but gets a massive write up because people are addicted to steep crap climbing over good vert climbing.

This can't be true because:
1. No vert climbing is good climbing
2. All the routes at Kilnsey that are better than The Bulge are steeper than The Bulge
3. You just said the best bit is the steeper bit at the top (which I agree with).
 

[Duma]

F - nipped out for lunchtime session at Johnsheugh. Great conditions, overcast and strong southerly. Warmed up at home, so straight on project, went down first go. Not sure of grade now, had initially thought 6C, now think it might be easier in cooler weather. Worked moves on extension, but need spotters / more padding as it involves a scary high foot lock in a crack. 6km run in evening, but felt knackered. Weights in evening.

Nice work getting the project done Chris! Name?

Also, lunchtime - smash out the proj and work the extension, eve - run and weights. No wonder you're knackered!

[spidermonkey09]

This can't be true because:
1. No vert climbing is good climbing
2. All the routes at Kilnsey that are better than The Bulge are steeper than The Bulge
3. You just said the best bit is the steeper bit at the top (which I agree with).
 

Ha! If ever there were truth that beauty is in the eye of the beholder...

1 - wrong
2 - wrong
3- one swallow doesn't make a summer...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Board club...

M: Moonboard @ AW (25 degree 2019) - Ace session, 5 x problems up to 6A+ to warm up. New 6B benchmark 2nd go and rinsed 6C+ benchmark proj first try... Ace!
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Depot - Reds and Purples - Really don't like the setting there, felt like everything tricky was either forcing me to do some burly compression or shoulder moves that didn't feel at all nice for my dodgy elbows and shoulder! (that haven't felt too dodgy recently, I'll add). Got on the 40 degree MB (2017 set) - Not a fan of the red blobs at all, managed a 6A+ 2nd try then got spanked! Sacked it off and went home muttering expletives....
F: Short session on the Sheaf bloc - Sweaty and feeling meh... Pub.
S: Hungover and ill.
S: Still feeling shit - AW with the GF, 4 routes up to F6c+ and a short MB session, worked on a new 6C, almost did it... Tired!

Funny week - been feeling under the weather for a couple of weeks now (cold like symptoms: blocked ears, fuzzy head, general tiredness)... Mostly been able to ignore it but every now and then it comes and bites me in the arse... Definitely drinking too much too (wine most evenings and too may beers on the weekends!)... Gonna try and cut out the booze for a bit and get some more sleep and see if I can shift this bloody man flu - must get out on rock soon too!

[Wellsy]

Monday: rested other than 20kgs for 20 seconds on the 20mm edge, for 8 reps per hand, A2 pulley injury on right middle finger rehab

Tuesday: board session. I've started getting back on the board, and my god I'm out of shape. Took me about 45 mins to do a 6B+ I used to do at the end of my warm up! Backsquats up to 90kgs for 5. Finger rehab. Shoulder rotations 12 x 3, 6kgs, for dodgy shoulder

Wednesday: Crossfit. Did a hand stand press up against the wall, nice.

Thursday: annoyingly could only get this session in on Thursday as wanted to rest but had surprisingly good board session at a mate's. Improvement from previous week. Finger hangs, shoulder rotations

Friday: total rest

Saturday: board session. Did Tuesdays 6B+ first go after warm up. Started piecing together an old 7A, felt good. Not a long session. Fingerboarded to warm up.

Sunday: fingerboarded to warm up but noticed my hanging is off kilter, even though the finger feels fine I think I'm unconsciously shifting weight to compensate. Went back to edge lifts accordingly. Did 20 odd easy new problems, tried hard on comp wall. Backsquats up to 95kgs for 5. 3 x 8 wide pullups.

Feeling psyched, v keen to get stronger. Training intensity bang on. 77.6kgs on Sunday.

[abarro81]

This can't be true because:
1. No vert climbing is good climbing

Ha! If ever there were truth that beauty is in the eye of the beholder...

1 - wrong

OK, I take it back, I forgot that the 10m vert romp atop a 40m steep route can be good. In all other situations I'm right 

[Wellsy]

Board club...

M: Moonboard @ AW (25 degree 2019) - Ace session, 5 x problems up to 6A+ to warm up. New 6B benchmark 2nd go and rinsed 6C+ benchmark proj first try... Ace!
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Depot - Reds and Purples - Really don't like the setting there, felt like everything tricky was either forcing me to do some burly compression or shoulder moves that didn't feel at all nice for my dodgy elbows and shoulder! (that haven't felt too dodgy recently, I'll add). Got on the 40 degree MB (2017 set) - Not a fan of the red blobs at all, managed a 6A+ 2nd try then got spanked! Sacked it off and went home muttering expletives....
F: Short session on the Sheaf bloc - Sweaty and feeling meh... Pub.
S: Hungover and ill.
S: Still feeling shit - AW with the GF, 4 routes up to F6c+ and a short MB session, worked on a new 6C, almost did it... Tired!

Funny week - been feeling under the weather for a couple of weeks now (cold like symptoms: blocked ears, fuzzy head, general tiredness)... Mostly been able to ignore it but every now and then it comes and bites me in the arse... Definitely drinking too much too (wine most evenings and too may beers on the weekends!)... Gonna try and cut out the booze for a bit and get some more sleep and see if I can shift this bloody man flu - must get out on rock soon too!

Good effort on the 6C+ proj though, the strength is there just need the good feeling and form!

[Fultonius]

2 week catchup - too busy / enjoying my new job to find time to post!

27 Jun 2023

Newsrom endurance circuits: 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6c+ (punchy, dropped onsight, deffo noticing the lack of PE). Worked 7b on 45 for a bit, got to 25/40 but struggled on some hard pocket moves, did second half but failed. Not resting much but still surprised how hard this feels). 6c+, 6c (on bad feet so maybe 7a+ but failed due to skin pain too. Much mileage!

30 Jun 2023

Autobelay laps to start (10 mins fairly cont.)

20 medium problems on the minute for power.

Some harder problems. Carefully testing left heel hooks, knee OK but noticeable.

6 Jul 2023

Mon - Wed , tiredafter weekend & lifting carpets / boxing / moving furniture.77kg. 1more kg to go, not putting so much effort into dropping weight just now.

Autobelay. Warm up, then 6c / downclimb modified 6c.

Techy vert conditioning for Dolomites:

6c+ up, 6a down, 6c+up, 6a down, 6c+ up, 6b down.

6c+ up, 6b down x 4 = 104 moves

Pink 6c+ up (nails, just) 4+ down, tried 6c+ up (black, line 13)but slipped and bashed shin. Brief rest, back up black, down and tried pink, nails.

7a, lower, 6c+, lower x 2 then 7a. Pumped/powered out by end.

Saturday:

Massive social prop store sesh. 3 hours of sweaty try hard bouldering. Did quite a few 7As in a few goes. Nothing harder. Still got forearms DOMS.

Sunday: 6km slow run. BBQ

Hovering about 77.5kg. Bit much socialising / bad eating / drinking these weeks, but still feeling pretty good and not too fucked considering going from full time bum to full time worker again.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - push press 5x5 45 kg, going better. Bentover rows and high pulls combo 5x5. Loaded carries.
Tue - BM pockets. Weights, back work.
Wed - bar work, farmer's.
Thu - board climbing, short links and static. Long link from start to 9/10, in 27° heat, project must be easy then. Back work.
Fri - AM as usual; PM thruster, high pulls.
Sat - light jog, hill sprints.
Sun - light swimming, Tyson push ups. Lazy.

[SA Chris]

Nice work getting the project done Chris! Name?

I've asked about and none of the usual suspects have laid claim, so looks like it might well be a FA. If so, probably going with Big Bro. I'll put vid on IG soon, cool piece of climbing in a place he would have loved.

[shark]

Nice links Shark, redpoint attempts soon?

Thanks Duma but probably not. Had unseasonably good conditions the last two sessions which I’m grateful for but think it would be better to back off trying to redpoint till the Autumn and in the meantime continue to work on finger strength and fitness in preparation and get some easier routes ticked. Tried hammering away at it through the summer into the autumn in 2021 and it broke me.