[User deactivated.]

This is extremely niche, but I have a project with a dyno and i'm about 6 inches short of reaching a good flat edge on my best attempts. I don't care for making long term sustained gains in my dyno ability, as I seldom do them, but I would like some quick wins to get this one over the line.

I've never done any plyometric training for the lower body. I've googled 'improve vertical jump' and it seems like a 6 inch gain is an achievable target, but i'm aware that there's a bit more to dynos than jumping on flat ground. On my project, the right hand leads, beginning on a good undercut/sidepull with the left hand on a poor sloper/sidepull a bit higher up. The left hand stays on until the last moment and it's difficult to generate enough inward or downward pull with it. The wall is approximately vertical. 

Any comp boulderers here with tips? I'm going to incorporate various plyometric exercises but could do with some more climbing specific training ideas. My board is 51 degrees and therefore useless for this, but I could potentially screw some holds to the walls of my garage and make a replica of sorts. 

[SA Chris]

Box jumps, get that explosive power going in the legs?

[Wellsy]

Box jumps, get that explosive power going in the legs?

This is what I've been doing amongst other things (and seen big power improvements!), but I'm reasonably sure Liam's level and specific needs are quite beyond mine!

[Steve Crowe]

I dunno but maybe the Clean and Jerk may help?

[joel182]

My first thought is that dynos are hugely technique driven so if you don't often do them the quickest gains are probably going to be made by refining your dyno skills. Best approached by getting someone who is good at jumps to give you feedback on some videos of your dyno attempts?

[moose]

Box jumps, get that explosive power going in the legs?

This is what I've been doing amongst other things (and seen big power improvements!), but I'm reasonably sure Liam's level and specific needs are quite beyond mine!

Seem to work well for Myles Garrett - at around 270'ish lb / 19.4 stone / 123 kg, he's possibly the most dangerously explosive man in the NFL (edge rusher - his job is to get to the quarterback, via evading / barging though the Offensive Line, preferably in less than 2.5 seconds):

Box jumps with 40 lb dumbbells:

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=329349237973576

60" box jump from standing ....he weighs damn near 20 stone!

https://www.tmz.com/watch/050120-myles-garrett-4779500-0-h50ooubv/

[Wellsy]

I dunno but maybe the Clean and Jerk may help?

I feel like hang power cleans, power cleans and even regular cleans would help but probably the jerk isn't really necessary

[Steve Crowe]

My thinking was that the dyno requires explosive movement and good control from toes to fingers. The clean & jerk isn’t the same but elements are similar. Would the Jerk element help develop the core required to kill the swing at the end of a dyno?  (* I’m rubbish at dynos).

[Hoseyb]

There's a lot of science to dynamic movement, your arms directing the flight path, most of the power coming from the legs. There always seems to be a curve to the path taken and the exact spot to apply the thrust within that curve (applied to your centre of mass) is key.

So I agree that video analysis would really help tweak this beta.

Box jumps seems a good idea, however, due to the curve of flight being so key, I wouldn't ignore the chain maintaining stability and control ( wrists, shoulders, core, hips)

[Dingdong]

So I messaged Liam privately with a protocol I thought would work well for what he needs to do. Lo and behold after doing a test session he was able to add 6 inches to his jump without even having to do a full training block.

I suggested doing a 3 week block of French Contrast Training which has been used by numerous long/high jump athletes for a minute now.

The protocol is as follows:

1 set =
Deadlifts 3 reps (80% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps 3-5 reps
Deadlifts 3 reps (60% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps with band assistance

You rest 20 seconds between each of those exercises. Then take a 3-5 minute rest and repeat 4 times.

This tricks your muscle fibres into expecting a heavy load from the deadlifts so they fire much harder when suddenly there’s no weight resistance.

[User deactivated.]

Dingdong's reminder that I could use French Contrast Training (which i've been using for finger strength) was a solid recommendation for the vertical jump part of the equation. I did add around 6 inches to my vertical jump in just the 1 session. I'm also taking note of other suggestions as technique is such a big part.

[SA Chris]

Thought you said you only needed to add 6", job done...

[User deactivated.]

Thought you said you only needed to add 6", job done...

I'll see if it translates 1:1 this weekend... If so, then I hope my head game is on good form - the dyno starts at around 8m above a sloped landing 

[SA Chris]

All strength to you!

[sheavi]

As Dingdong said! That programme he posted trains pure strength and then power, which is what you need.

Anecdotally I've found aiming for 6 inches beyond the hold helps prime the nervous system to aim higher.

[petejh]

I suggested doing a 3 week block of French Contrast Training which has been used by numerous long/high jump athletes for a minute now.

The protocol is as follows:

1 set =
Deadlifts 3 reps (80% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps 3-5 reps
Deadlifts 3 reps (60% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps with band assistance

You rest 20 seconds between each of those exercises. Then take a 3-5 minute rest and repeat 4 times.

This tricks your muscle fibres into expecting a heavy load from the deadlifts so they fire much harder when suddenly there’s no weight resistance.

What would the finger training version look like I wonder..

e.g.
3 weighted max hangs.
3 campus board large rung max throws
3 weighted max hangs
3 campus board large rung max throws

?

[Dingdong]

I suggested doing a 3 week block of French Contrast Training which has been used by numerous long/high jump athletes for a minute now.

The protocol is as follows:

1 set =
Deadlifts 3 reps (80% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps 3-5 reps
Deadlifts 3 reps (60% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps with band assistance

You rest 20 seconds between each of those exercises. Then take a 3-5 minute rest and repeat 4 times.

This tricks your muscle fibres into expecting a heavy load from the deadlifts so they fire much harder when suddenly there’s no weight resistance.

What would the finger training version look like I wonder..

e.g.
3 weighted max hangs.
3 campus board large rung max throws
3 weighted max hangs
3 campus board large rung max throws

?

I spoke with Mina about this as we were looking to add a 3 week block in august to trial it. On fingers it could be quite dangerous because of the level of fatigue it produces so we’ve decided I’m gonna do it as a pulling workout rather than fingers, so essentially doing max pull-ups followed by band assisted explosive pull-ups.

[User deactivated.]

I suggested doing a 3 week block of French Contrast Training which has been used by numerous long/high jump athletes for a minute now.

The protocol is as follows:

1 set =
Deadlifts 3 reps (80% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps 3-5 reps
Deadlifts 3 reps (60% of your 1RM)
Explosive plyometric jumps with band assistance

You rest 20 seconds between each of those exercises. Then take a 3-5 minute rest and repeat 4 times.

This tricks your muscle fibres into expecting a heavy load from the deadlifts so they fire much harder when suddenly there’s no weight resistance.

What would the finger training version look like I wonder..

e.g.
3 weighted max hangs.
3 campus board large rung max throws
3 weighted max hangs
3 campus board large rung max throws

?

For a few months, I've done the following:

3 x pulls to circa 90-95% peak force using a 25mm edge anchored to the floor, only using the finger flexors to produce the force and not leaning or pulling with the rest of the body.
3 to 5 speed pulls on the same setup, measuring RFD and trying to be as explosive as possible.
rest and repeat