[shark]

11.11

M AM Tor. Ben S, Mina, Char and Tom S. Bit cooler and a decent breeze. Two ties on Cross N Angry just trying AM headwall. Did it almost in two halves over the two goes. Had hoped for better. Onto Bens with Char. Had just the three goes on the crux and got the crimp twice properly which felt like a breakthrough though lacked the oomph to follow through on the next move. Then had goes on other sections. Still struggling on cross thru using toe hook method. Tips too sore at end to pay a visit to crag x

T

W AM High Tor with John. Temp better than last week but still not great. Did Original route on Johns gear practicing placing my new Tricams. Tried Supersonic but had wrong glasses (varifocals) and struggled to see foothold on the low crux and greased off. Couple more goes from ground but lost my nerve to commit past pegs so stripped it. We then did Deauchery which is always a treat

T Weighted deadhang and pull-ups. Ergo Edge. Bit cooler. FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups up then 10, 10 and 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x2 pull ups then 10, 9 and 10 +17.5kg 3x1 pull up FC  10secs HC 9secs Drag 10 secs +22.5kg FC 8 secs, +25kgs FC FC 7 secs HC 6secs and 6 secs Drag 10 secs +27.5kg 8 secs. Great session with 2.5kg improvement on last week
Round trip to Cambridge and back

F. Eve Got hammered in the Botanical Gardens watching a play (Sense and Sensibility)

S Hungover so trained instead of going to Tor. Meant to do some foot on campusing but got sucked into doing another weighted deadhang and pull up session but only came away with the same sort of scores to Thursday so should have stuck with the plan. Did a few stretches and DB toe lifts too. Eve got hammered again at a friends birthday near Derby

S

Mixed week. Good to have better consistency on the crux of Bens and my finger strength is at PB levels but went backwards with my links on the AM headwall and my head went to bits at High Tor. Painfully aware I need to shift half a stone if I’m going to have a chance on either Bens or Cross N Angry. Gradually getting keener with each passing week. Return visits to Raven Tor and High Tor scheduled for tomorrow and Weds.

[Duma]

Thanks Shark

M - eve, run, 6k hilly trail, hot, slow. Pretty though.
T - eve, Cheddar, having a break from Bristol Weed while it's so hot. More off the 7a list, up to castle rocks for some nettle bashing (shorts were a bad choice) and the lesser travelled Air Conditioning as Standard and Ho Ho Ho. OS the former, bit dusty and a few bits of flora, but some decent climbing and good positions at the crux. For the latter a few spots of rain were falling as I tied in, bit slippery and chossy for the first couple of bolts, rain increasing but the overlap offered a slight bit of respite and I made it through the crux and into the groove, on easy ground, only one bolt from the chains, but sadly it was properly pissing it down now and the moment I had to commit to standing on a soaking and sloping edge I was off. Barely dogged to the chains and scarpered to the car, this took a while as had to get back to the road from halfway up the gorge. Proper drowned rats by the time we were down, loads of fun and well earned pint in the Crown.
W - eve TCA, 90 mins. Repeated a few whites and blacks, finished off a black I've spent a couple of sessions on got to the last move twice on another, ran a bunch of laps on another interspersed with one of the trickier whites as a vague stab at some pe stuff.
T - 
F -
S - pm TCA for quick hit while offspring at party. Too hot and minimal psyche, but fell off last move of the same black as always, managed 2 (vert/slabby) blues, and put a little work into the hardest on the circuit board. Best was start to 4 moves from end.
S - pm TCA, finished the circuit (7c?) after warming up and re working the end, then laps on the next one down (7a+?) 1:1 work rest (takes about 70 sec) Managed 3 and a half sets.

71.5kg

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Shark.

Power Club

Monday -

Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets.

Tuesday
Boulder triples. 6sets.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday

Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Went to the Cornice for the first time. Went bolt  to bolt to warm up on War Memorial. Had 3 tie ins. Managed to get to the roof in a link. Need to sort out best the sequence out left into the groove.
Went to Rhubarb Buttress and did Garlic Twist.  2nd try as I fluffed the flash.


Sunday
Scrubbed down half of the back deck in preparation for resealing .

30 min peloton max ride.

[duncan]

Thanks for testing the Supersonic pegs Simon!

M - Walked 8km.
T - Hips/knees rehab./conditioning: frog squats, single leg squats, heel raises. Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, press-ups, side planks, lock-offs and so on. Walked 10 km.
W - Uphill Quarry with Kel (CSI: Newton Abbot). Had three working goes on The Jimi Hendrix Experience. I did all the climbing to the crux and from the end of the crux to the top in one but the 15’ from the rock-up into the high sidepull to the ledge was really hard for me and I couldn't do several of the  moves.
T - Fingers felt battered. Walked 7km.
F - Back to Uphill. First time I’ve tried TRing with a microtraxion (In the 80s I used a Petzl ascender for training laps but working routes wasn’t in my vocabulary then). Had a play on the crux of Jimi... but didn’t feel very comfortable with the set-up and didn't learn any more about the route. 
S - Drove back to London. Fingerboard: 20mm four finger half crimp, 20mm three finger drag, 14mm four finger drag. Much better than last week.
S - Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, press-ups, side planks, lock-offs and so on. Brief fingerboard session: 20mm and 14mm three finger drags.  L'elisir d'amore at Glyndebourne (cheap tickets obviously, does standing for 2 hours count?).


Interesting playing on Jimi... Lots of trying-hard involved which is good for me. Could be too ambitious, it’ll feel sketchy on lead even with some of the bolts extended. I might be better off doing Living Dead first. However I think it’s worth another working day to see if I can manage the crux moves. If I can’t, I know what to work on. It’s great climbing, suits my strengths, the place has resonance (it’s an early stomping ground, I was scrambling here in 1977) and it’s a good spot for a longer-term project as it’s 5 mins. from my Mum’s. It's also great for TR soloing: council-funded stainless stake-bolts every 2m along the top and usually others around. I need to get slicker and more confident at this.

Plan: F6a-6c crack climbing isn’t much preparation for F7b++ vertical crimping (or 7a trad. on pockets). As I don’t have easy access to Broomgrove Road it's back to the fingerboard: smaller edges and 3 or 2 fingers.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - Big Depot. First time I've been since the refit. It's good. Great setting on good holds.

Th - pleasant mooch at Attermire. Checked out a project on the Barrel Buttress (a leaning arete just right of Spider's Web) but came away uninspired. 0-star stuff. Took the pad over to Legover Groove and did Blue Light and Green Beam which were both tricky. Then Smitton by Anguish. Incredible rock on some parts of the crag. Really psyched for more of the trad there.

Sa - Victoria Cave. Warmed up on Sven Vath which was pretty cool. Then a bolt to bolt up Lost in Thought and Lost in Time followed by a successful redpoint. Brilliant route. Quality from start to finish.

Su - family day at Bolton Abbey. Jumped over the River Wharfe.

[Fultonius]

The weather's finally broken... Ah well, it had to end at some point. 77.5kg - targeting 76kg, but this level seems ok as a more stable base during season.

Tuesday: First pre-work session in new job. Need to be more organised with breakfast/packing/slickness to get an unrushed session in before I start.
TCA  circuits, just a standard ponzi session. 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a+ (dropped it a few moves from end) all o/s, then tried a 7b+ on the 45 and got OWNED. Too steep, too burly, then tried a 7b (probably not enough rest) on the same and got owned again. Then 6c+, 7a (with not enugh rest, felt powered out by about move 7 but just kept trucking until move 23 out of 27. 6b+, home.

> Observations. Felt very good on less steep, fingery stuff (could shake out almost everywhere) but I've lost some steep power (unsurprising, but a good reminder I need to keep at that stuff to keep it).

Wed, Thursday, Friday: Nowt. Down at a conference on Thursday in Newcastle which turned a bit boozy and I'm now a lightweight after nearly 2 months of no/minimal booze).

Saturday: Took a punt on the weather and went to the Shelterstone in the Cairngorms, climbed Stone Bastion 285m of E1 with a pair of E4 pitches thrown in for good measure.
Sunday: Farlatter before the rains. 6b, 6b+, E4 (Too far for the bear), 7a (flash) and a lap on same 7a to do the start with actual footwork rather than slappy burl.  Good session, E4 felt challenging but not desperate. Placed good gear, read the moves weel enough climbed confidently. E5 should be within reach. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - regular weights.
Tue - back work, goblet squat and press, bar work.
Wed - farmer's.
Thu - clean, singles up to 95%. 5x5 clean and push 80%. Bentover rows.
Fri - AM as usual; PM loaded carries.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - double volume AM session, back work.

[Coops_13]

M: Bulgarian Split squats 65lb X5 *5sets. Bench press 185lb X3, 190lb X3 *3sets (failed last rep last set), 205lbX1. Incline chest press. Shoulder press, bicep curl, diagonal raise, svend press. 30 mins peloton

T: MH warm-up down to -35lb RH *3, -20lb LH *3. Board session. 20 mins peloton

T: MH warm-up down to -35lb RH *3, -25lb LH *3. Board session. Working harder projects but feeling weak. Retro-flashed the first 7 I did on the board - good confidence booster

S: Mt Evans, Area A. 5.5miles, 1100ft. Went to work Bierstadt V10. Still couldn't work out a way for me to do crux. Closer than last season but still no luck. Managed to send Ludder's Pinch, sandbag V6, very quickly after finishing on Bierstadt


S: Hike near Silverthorne. 4.9miles, 1000ft. Bench press

[shark]

but went backwards with my links on the AM headwall

Mint conditions this morning and very nearly linked the whole headwall but overshot the last hold (a gaston) before the break :-)

[Duma]

Nice!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late as always....club

M: Rest
T: Moonboard session @ AW (25 - 2019) - 6 x 5+ - 6a+ to get fully warm, good rest then got on last weeks 6C, rinsed it first try... Was a bit gutted as was kinda hoping for a fight! Spent a while going through potentials then settled on another class 6C benchie, very nearly flashed it and the very much didn't do it. Good try hard session tho!
W: Sheaf bloc, new traverse work - hard!
T: Rest
F: AW with Jus - Hot! Warmed up (F6a+, F6b, F6b+) then tried a new F7b, did all the moves but felt tired and hot... Think I'm coming down with summat.
S: Planned to get out but ran out of time - MB session, too hot, climbed badly...
S: Hungover and ill...