[Nigel]

After drawing a blank asking most people I know, I'm after any info the hive mind has on Ireland, particularly the west coast.

Basically I've spent the last few Augusts vanning around Scotland doing a mix of bouldering, walking / scrambling, and kayaking, all at a fairly chill level. With a nice sideline in drinking beer in country pubs and scranning fresh seafood where possible. I'm currently pondering whether to spread my wings and go somewhere new to do the same sort of stuff, and the west coast of Ireland has sprung to mind. So I guess questions would be:

+ any OK bouldering areas with a nice compact-ish circuit? Not expecting Font. A quick look on UKC and nothing is jumping off the page...
+ Looks like there should be loads of options for (entry-level!) sea-kayaking, but any direct knowledge is welcome 
+ Will it be busy or quiet? Expensive or cheap?
+ Is van camping generally OK, like Scotland?
+ Weather in August?
+ It looks like taking in the whole west coast top to toe would take forever - any particular areas that are a "must do"?
+ Any other recommendations at all as I know literally nothing about the place!

Any beta at all appreciated 

[SA Chris]

Have you got the Ireland Bouldering Guide? Tons of info in there.

I've only ever gone looking for surf that way and the sea is generally pretty wild, but there looks to be some pretty sheltered inlets and estuaries.

No idea on the rest, it was 20 years ago over the jubilee before last, so probably all changed, but there were loads of beach parking places with surfers in vans, so seems generally tolerated.

[Dave Flanagan]

After drawing a blank asking most people I know, I'm after any info the hive mind has on Ireland, particularly the west coast.

Basically I've spent the last few Augusts vanning around Scotland doing a mix of bouldering, walking / scrambling, and kayaking, all at a fairly chill level. With a nice sideline in drinking beer in country pubs and scranning fresh seafood where possible. I'm currently pondering whether to spread my wings and go somewhere new to do the same sort of stuff, and the west coast of Ireland has sprung to mind. So I guess questions would be:

+ any OK bouldering areas with a nice compact-ish circuit? Not expecting Font. A quick look on UKC and nothing is jumping off the page...
+ Looks like there should be loads of options for (entry-level!) sea-kayaking, but any direct knowledge is welcome 
+ Will it be busy or quiet? Expensive or cheap?
+ Is van camping generally OK, like Scotland?
+ Weather in August?
+ It looks like taking in the whole west coast top to toe would take forever - any particular areas that are a "must do"?
+ Any other recommendations at all as I know literally nothing about the place!

Any beta at all appreciated 

There is a decent amount of bouldering, Doolin in Clare springs to mind as the notable coastal spot, scattered minor stuff in Connemara and plenty of nice granite in NW Donegal.

If you go in high summer it will be busy, the first 2 weeks of August is the busiest time. Towards the end of August it gets quieter. Post covid there are a lot more vans about, they are generally tolerated, but the increase in numbers has put pressure on that situation. 

You might find Ireland expensive. A pint would be 6euro. Could spend a lot eating seafood platters in nice restaurants.

The weather is hit and miss. Impossible to predict really.

The WAW is 2500km long so don't expect to see it all in a week.

I wrote a book called Exploring Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way that might be of some use. Feel free to PM with any questions.

[remus]

There is a decent amount of bouldering, Doolin in Clare springs to mind as the notable coastal spot, scattered minor stuff in Connemara and plenty of nice granite in NW Donegal.

A bit too early for you Nigel, but the Doolin folk festival is ace (usually in June I think). I had an ace trip a few years ago where we started off with the fairhead festival then drove down to the burren after the weather crapped out. Topped off with an impromptu night at the folk festival and waking up sprawled half way in to my tent with an awful hangover.

[Fultonius]

We were over a few summers ago (in fact, must have been just pre-covid?) for my cousins wedding in Donegal, we took the van and drove down the west coast for 2 weeks after, doing a bit of climbing, biking and kayaking.

It's nice. But. Compared to Scotland and when we've done van trips in Europe, we found it generally harder to find good, free, scenic, non-local-rage inducing van camping spots. It just seems like there are fewer free bits of land that aren't overlooked by houses.

We also expected a slightly more vibrant folk scene in the pubs (having been to orkney and Stornoway at festival times, maybe expectations were too high) but it seemed often that anyove music was a pair of old codgers going through the motions for the tourists again, rather than it bejng a good vibrant music scene.

I guess what I'm saying is. People, place and activities are good (can't help with bouldering, sea kayaking down by kerry is great) but maybe do a bit of research and have some targets to go to, rather than just drifting along expecting to just find good stuff.

I realise this sounds a bit harsh, we had a great time! Just found it took more thna a week to figure out a few things and then we were nearly ready to come home.

[Johnny Brown]

I’ve not been for years, but am aware that the access situation in Eire is absolutely dire. Not only is there no sort of right to roam, there is no public foot path network. So all access is by kind permission of the landowner, if you can find them or they are disposed to help you. This is a big issue for walking up mountains, let alone cragging. Not only that but there was some sort of legal decision made making landowners liable for accidents on their land. So you’ve got this desperate catch 22 where you’ve no right of access but even at best they don’t want to know you’re there either.

[SA Chris]

As opposed to Fultonius, when we went we had about 5 days in Lahinch, and it reached a point where we were looking for the pub that didn't have a full band going on some nights. Fortunately there was a distinct lack of people lopping off their fingers and flinging them about too

Good point JB raises about access, even back then there were issues accessing beaches to surf, as houses and golf clubs were being put up in front of them.

[Bradders]

Hi Nigel, I just spent a month bouldering in the South West of Ireland, staying in Kenmare. Co. Kerry is (I think) the major area for bouldering in Ireland outside Fairhead and Wicklow.

I've been meaning to do a bit of a write up in the Black Valley / Gap of Dunloe thread but haven't had time yet. In short there's loads to do but it is a very fickle place and therefore hard to recommend. When the weather, foliage, midges, access and rock quality all align it is an incredible place to go bouldering though. The Bouldering in Ireland guide is a good place to start albeit there's loads been developed since.

I’ve not been for years, but am aware that the access situation in Eire is absolutely dire. Not only is there no sort of right to roam, there is no public foot path network. So all access is by kind permission of the landowner, if you can find them or they are disposed to help you. This is a big issue for walking up mountains, let alone cragging. Not only that but there was some sort of legal decision made making landowners liable for accidents on their land. So you’ve got this desperate catch 22 where you’ve no right of access but even at best they don’t want to know you’re there either.

Echo this. It's a massive issue. The local climbers are understandably hyper cautious about access as a result. The area of the Black Valley where White Lightning is is banned apparently (I'm told) because the landowner wasn't asked before it was featured in the Bouldering in Ireland guide and the farmer took exception to this.

The locals I spoke to mentioned cliffs in Co Kerry with amazing sport climbing potential but they can't bolt them as Irish law means the landowner is legally liable for the installation of any fixed gear.

There are some brilliant ridge lines to traverse in Co Kerry and Co Cork but for most of them you seem to need one of the local professional guides to take you.

Even taking the dog for a walk from the cottage we were staying in I could only go along the road or a very specific hiking trail with a permissive access agreement.

Etc. Etc.

[Nigel]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far, really appreciate all the replies, they're all very helpful. At work atm without much time so will reply properly later, but quickly the m-word has been mentioned: how bad are they? Wales / Lakes level? Or full on Torridon midge tornados?

[Bradders]

I've had two of the worst midge experiences of my life in Co Kerry, and they were  ferocious around the cottage (not to mention ticks in the garden); packing the car up in the evening and following morning before leaving was horrible. Manageable generally at the bouldering areas with smidge and a midge hood, so probably not Torridonian levels (never been there).

[SA Chris]

Just come to the East Coast of Scotland, you know it makes sense.

[Dave Flanagan]

The area of the Black Valley where White Lightning is is banned apparently (I'm told) because the landowner wasn't asked before it was featured in the Bouldering in Ireland guide and the farmer took exception to this.

First I have heard of this.

[Dave Flanagan]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far, really appreciate all the replies, they're all very helpful. At work atm without much time so will reply properly later, but quickly the m-word has been mentioned: how bad are they? Wales / Lakes level? Or full on Torridon midge tornados?

Going from some of the videos I have seen of Scottish midge they aren't nearly as bad. I think you just need to be sensible about this. But if you bouldering on a still evening near water or vegetation during the summer there are going to be midge.

[Dave Flanagan]

Not only that but there was some sort of legal decision made making landowners liable for accidents on their land.

My understanding is that the opposite is the case, but it has been hard to convince farmers.

[Nigel]

I wrote a book called Exploring Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way that might be of some use. Feel free to PM with any questions.

Love that you ask a speculative question on here and get a reply from someone who literally wrote the book on it! Thanks for the kind offer Dave, if I have any direct questions I will ask. If we decide to come I will obvs buy your book!

Remus, folk festival sounds great! Would be the sort of thing I'd be into if timings worked out.

Fultonius, RE van spots were you using Park4Night? Looks to be loads on there but obvs they aren't always what they seem.

JB / Bradders / (and Dave I guess) - I didn't know this about access. So is it the case that if I see a hill and fancy walking up it it may not be possible? Also is there any Irish mapping equivalent of the OS?

SA Chris - E Scotland is always a distinct possibility tbh!

[Paul B]

I've not much to add in terms of experience as when I went the weather was attrocious and I think I spent the best weather day holding down a skyhook for some wad.

I really do want to return but the cost of the ferry with a car always felt disproportionately expensive compared to other options?

[Dave Flanagan]

I wrote a book called Exploring Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way that might be of some use. Feel free to PM with any questions.

Love that you ask a speculative question on here and get a reply from someone who literally wrote the book on it! Thanks for the kind offer Dave, if I have any direct questions I will ask. If we decide to come I will obvs buy your book!

Remus, folk festival sounds great! Would be the sort of thing I'd be into if timings worked out.

Fultonius, RE van spots were you using Park4Night? Looks to be loads on there but obvs they aren't always what they seem.

JB / Bradders / (and Dave I guess) - I didn't know this about access. So is it the case that if I see a hill and fancy walking up it it may not be possible? Also is there any Irish mapping equivalent of the OS?

SA Chris - E Scotland is always a distinct possibility tbh!

Yes the OSI is the equivalent, the whole country is mapped at 1:50,000. I have done a fair bit of walking around Ireland and can't recall being told 'get off my land' but there are a few areas where there are problems, but generally speaking you would be fine just walking up a random hill I would think.

In terms of van parking Google Streetview would be very useful for researching parking spots, there are thousands of laneways near the coast that lead down to small piers which would be ideal.

[Fultonius]

Fultonius, RE van spots were you using Park4Night? Looks to be loads on there but obvs they aren't always what they seem.

I don't think we were aware of it back then tbh. We usually had quite a good nose for where to go in Scotland and the continent, but somehow found it a struggle in Ireland. Sounds like we were just not looking in the right places!   

[Bradders]

The area of the Black Valley where White Lightning is is banned apparently (I'm told) because the landowner wasn't asked before it was featured in the Bouldering in Ireland guide and the farmer took exception to this.

First I have heard of this.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Heard it from several very active locals (Cork based).

I was also told the Gap of Dunloe itself was now off limits, but I went anyway and wasn't chased away with pitchforks. And on the other hand one of the locals mentioned having been up to the Watchtower block several times (listed as banned in the guide), with no problems. So... 

[Paul B]

Fultonius, RE van spots were you using Park4Night? Looks to be loads on there but obvs they aren't always what they seem.

This app looks great. I've been trying to find somewhere in Wales to sleep in the A6 in the next week or so near to a certain objective and this looks to have several options.

[chillax]

Donegal also worth a mention. Seems like lots of people go sea kayaking around the islands (Gola, Owey, Arranmore etc.) Couple of lovely compact bouldering spots like Carrickfin beach, Polldo Glen and Muckross Head (tricky to find in good nick). Great trad if thats your bag. Roundy orange granite, a bit like cornwall. Great sandstone roofs in Muckross. Great pubs, beautiful stark landscape. The sport on Inis Mór might be of interest too, and obviously trad at Ailladie.

A bouldering trip over here taking in the Mournes, Fair Head, Donegal, Doolin, Kerry (whatever they get up to down there, been climbing in Ireland for 17 years, went down there once and found it to be an utter pain in the tits), Waterford (Coumshingaun and Larry The Goat's), and Wicklow would be mega. Access doesn't feel as dire as JB makes it out, but there are substantial issues. Majority of documented popular spots are absolutely fine, discounting Kerry but they do things differently down there