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Replacement for Miura XX? (Read 1130 times)

slab_happy

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Replacement for Miura XX?
June 08, 2023, 08:06:40 am
Trying to plan ahead for when my current pairs decay past the point where they can be resoled ...

I know they're basically the Miura Vs but with laces, but I've found I tend to do better with lace-ups as I can adjust the fit round my bunions and weird foot pain issues.

So, wondering if there's anything else out there along similar lines that I should take a look at.


Thedevonshirepiemuncher

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#1 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 08, 2023, 10:30:19 am
New Scarpa generator maybe, not tried it but could be worth a punt

slab_happy

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#2 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 08:11:05 am
Those seem a bit non-aggressive for what I'm looking for.

The regular lace-up Miuras work great for me as trad shoes; the XXs have been fantastic as bouldering shoes because they've got the P3 whatsit to keep the downturn.

spidermonkey09

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#3 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 08:37:44 am
I think if you're after a lace up shoe like the Miura with the p3 platform you may be struggling. If you haven't tried the Ladies Miura VS I'd give that a go, I was always a lace up devotee for years but am sold on these now. Otherwise you could try Katakis but these are a bit wider than the Miura.

I'm impressed you've been able to find the XXs for so long, they were a 2017 special edition as far as I was aware!

MischaHY

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#4 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 09:54:16 am
Those seem a bit non-aggressive for what I'm looking for.

The regular lace-up Miuras work great for me as trad shoes; the XXs have been fantastic as bouldering shoes because they've got the P3 whatsit to keep the downturn.

Generator is a great shoe but definitely more about long walls and cracks etc. I've sized mine very comfy with 0.5 sizes down and up to now on granite edges or cracks up to 7b they were super but nothing like a Miura. I can imagine they'd be decent for hard edging with a smaller size but the front edge is very square so not as precise. Have to say I generally find it very hard to replace the Miura VS and have just ended up with another pair because it's tricky to find anything else that works well on hard vert lime when over 80kg that isn't also totally insensitive.

IanP

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#5 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 09:57:48 am
I'm in a similar situation regarding the XX, for limestone sport climbing I've used them pretty much exclusively since 2018. Fact that they resole really well and my luck in picking up a couple of pairs from an eBay clearance site a couple of years ago means I can probably manage another year or so before my replacement search becomes urgent.

Regarding the Muira VS, I don't think it's same shoe at all, wierdly La Sportiva themselves have the VS as one of theire widest shoes while the lace is one of the narrowest (https://www.lasportiva.com/en/climbing-shoes-technical-information). Not really sure why they have the same name tbh.  I have previously used the women's VS with some success but think the XX feels somewhat different in fit (and being on the heavier side I prefer the Edge rubber for typical limestone wall climbing).

I'm interested on anyone's views, the Kataki (or Otaki since I'm not averse to velcro) look like they might be possibilities?



spidermonkey09

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#6 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 10:05:32 am
I've seen that graph too, I think its total balls. I was wearing the ladies Miura lace for years, now wear the ladies VS and the fit is exactly the same. If anything the heel on the VS feels narrower.

Discussed here: https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15060.msg674261.html#msg674261

MischaHY

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#7 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 09, 2023, 10:27:52 am
I'm in a similar situation regarding the XX, for limestone sport climbing I've used them pretty much exclusively since 2018. Fact that they resole really well and my luck in picking up a couple of pairs from an eBay clearance site a couple of years ago means I can probably manage another year or so before my replacement search becomes urgent.

Regarding the Muira VS, I don't think it's same shoe at all, wierdly La Sportiva themselves have the VS as one of theire widest shoes while the lace is one of the narrowest (https://www.lasportiva.com/en/climbing-shoes-technical-information). Not really sure why they have the same name tbh.  I have previously used the women's VS with some success but think the XX feels somewhat different in fit (and being on the heavier side I prefer the Edge rubber for typical limestone wall climbing).

I'm interested on anyone's views, the Kataki (or Otaki since I'm not averse to velcro) look like they might be possibilities?

Kataki is mint but also being discontinued. However this means you can get them very cheap at the mo so could just buy five pairs and be sorted for a few years.

slab_happy

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#8 Re: Replacement for Miura XX?
June 10, 2023, 02:53:03 pm
I think if you're after a lace up shoe like the Miura with the p3 platform you may be struggling.

Yup, that's why I thought I'd consult the collective wisdom of UKB, in case anyone knows of something! Doesn't have to be the P3, but something with a similar downturn.

I'm impressed you've been able to find the XXs for so long, they were a 2017 special edition as far as I was aware!

I stockpiled a couple of pairs when I realized how well they work for me, since they were a limited edition.

Women’s Miuras (Vs or laces) are too narrow for me across the toebox, alas. Even with the men’s versions, I put a knot in my laces so I can keep them loose over base of the big toe joint and then winch them tight round the arch.

 

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