[shark]

~11.13

M.

T. AM Home warm up. Tor to meet Cowboyhat. Warm and felt a bit humid but rock was fine. Two tie ins working the AM headwall. Felt much better on the moves. Did it in overlapping sections from break to break (Move 1 to 8.5 and move 6-12) Dog walk. PM Practised the crux of Bens Roof (5 sets of 3 attempts). Did better on it than last week holding the crimp about 5 times and doing the next move once getting the sharp slot. Good day.

W.

T. Lawn Mowing

F. AM Home warm up. Tor to meet Ethan. Warm. Dogged up to AM headwall. Surprised myself by pulling on and doing Move 6-12 straight off. The move to gaston has never felt so easy before. Then  did move 1-7.5. Good to do it in two halves first tie in. Second tie in much warmer. Led from Revelations belay to 4 moves into theAM headwall. Dogged and climbed to the top of the crag and stripped it. Dog walk. Beautiful weather. Felt too lethargic and tired to work Bens.

S. Lawn mowing and cleaning

S. Weighted deadhangs on ergo edge through the day between packing, will writing and grocery shopping. Best hangs +20kg FC 7 secs HC 6 secs Drag 10 secs. Good improvement on last week. The E2’s at Fairhead are a’trembling


Off to Ireland tomorrow with Duncan with a great forecast

[Fultonius]

Mind those airhead E2s are physical and tough graded, unlike the E3s and E4s!

You should go and do Jolly Roger!

[SA Chris]

airhead E2s

Deliberate typo? Seems apt.

[duncan]

A twofer due to not doing anything last week

M - Ill
T - Ill
W -Ill
T - Shoulders and elbows conditioning at about 50% of volume.
F - Legs conditioning at 50%. Elbow rehab. on fingerboard
S - Shoulders and elbows.
S - Shoulders and elbows.
M - Walked 7km.
T - Housepainting. Walked 8km.
W - Westway TRing. Easing back in: around 10 routes to 6a+
T - Housepainting
F - Westway TRing. 16 routes to 6a+ (200m ascent). Still below par. More housepainting.
S - Walked 8km
S - Woke with painful hip. Shoulders conditioning. Brief fingerboard for elbows conditioning.


Wiped out with a cold first week, recovering slowly the second week. Also, hip is painful and I sense the arthritis that was first evident 10 years ago may be reaching a tipping point.

On the plus side, I’ve lost more than 2kg, off to Fairhead and next week's weather looks glorious!

Plan: ease gently back into some actual climbing (Fairhead E2s!).

[Will Hunt]

Tu - spent an evening at Malham gluing the undercut back onto the start of New Dawn. No climbing.

Th, Fr, Sa - ill. Maybe hayfever related?

Su - Back at Malham for forecast connies which, of course, didn't arrive. Undercut felt rock solid on the New Dawn start. Managed a high point on Baboo, falling on the 3rd and easiest of the 3 hard moves in the crux. Felt like I might have got through the crux were it not for slippy connies. Next go was a complete disaster, feeling powered out leaving the rest before even getting to the crux.

[Fultonius]

Potentially missed a week there.

Still not done Endurance, but some good links.

Mon-Friday: Long days working at R1 Big Weekend doing bar builds. Tough shift and shit pay, but needs must. 10-15km per day walking around site - good for burning calories!

After work Friday: Disastrous day. Finished early, so headed to Ley Quarry as its local and can get away without mats. Did some warm travs the worked on a 7B and a couple of 7A+s all quite eliminate, so hard to figure out. Did some mantle/rockover practice as its a known technical weakspot of mine. Left knee did a kind of internal pop. At first I hoped it was nothing, as it didn't hurt, but I decided to sack it off. Later it started hurting and swole up a bit. Damn.

Sat: R&R

Sunday: 28 May 2023  Time for a block of upper body power and finger strength while I can't do much with my knee.

5 x 5 pull ups, slow, tightly wide.
Max hangs testing session. 32.8kg chisel. May retest at half crimp to see the difference.
6.8kg more than July last year, but bodyweight down 2kg since then. Good gains considering I've done very few max hangs sessions since then (none? One?)

Front lever progressions, tuck (hard). Couple of Hollow bodies.

If anyone has any good suggestions on knee-free climbing exercises, shout out!

[SA Chris]

Bummer, is it the knee you had surgery on?

[T_B]

On the plus side, I’ve lost more than 2kg, off to Fairhead and next week's weather looks glorious!

Top tip: take plenty of clothes! Coldest crag ever. I went once at this time of year and underestimated the cold north easterlies and the fact most of the crag is in shade.

Dark Forces is one of the best E3/5.11s in the UK if you’re going well.

[monkoffunk]

M - 8k run. One arm locks (non deep) halfway through at outdoor gym. Rest of physio routine in evening.

T - DOMS in legs and arms today. Only yoga. Needed the rest. Maybe lighter session tomorrow?

W - Recruitment pulls aiming to improve DOMS and train Thurs.

T - Weights bases physio stuff. Went to do locks and just couldn’t pull. Don’t know why so wrecked from Monday, didn’t think I did that much!

F - Rest

S - Rest

S - Avon gorge. Arrived 0630 for morning conditions although it was still pretty warm! Less greasy than last time I was there though. Did The Pauper at maybe soft 6C, which took a few goes. Tried first move of Peace, the 7A+ there but didn’t stick it. Few goes on Most Choice, which I think is somewhere in the 6C/+ range. Made some progress but not much.

All felt a bit high gravity. I think right now I’m strength medium, technique low. To be fair Avon bouldering isn’t really my style.

Need to keep chipping away with the physio and training, the recovery this time after 5 months of improved consistency etc seems a little more like wading through treacle than it has done before. But positively my elbow and back didn’t hurt so much this week and I did actually get up something.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM DL from blocks, singles. Clean, singles. Bar work.
Tue -  board climbing, links. Not (too) bad but sub par. 21°.
Wed - ab wheel, goblet squat and push, back work, thruster, high pulls.
Thu - goblet squat and push, back work. Two very hard and stressful days.
Fri - boxing bag, some weights.
Sat - regular weights.
Sun - boxing bag.
Terrible terrible week.

[Fultonius]

Bummer, is it the knee you had surgery on?

Nah, that one's bionic - it's the "good" knee that I've tweaked this time.

[Fultonius]

On the plus side, I’ve lost more than 2kg, off to Fairhead and next week's weather looks glorious!

Top tip: take plenty of clothes! Coldest crag ever. I went once at this time of year and underestimated the cold north easterlies and the fact most of the crag is in shade.

Dark Forces is one of the best E3/5.11s in the UK if you’re going well.

Alternatively, given the forecast, make sure to bring wellies if you're camping. We had a hot and sunny week a few years back and the grass was soaked every morning, so the walk to the "bogs" meant wet feet for half the day. We were in shorts and tee's all week.

Would love to go back right now!

[shark]

You should go and do Jolly Roger!

Have been before 7 years ago on a short visit and that’s one we did but I only followed the crux pitch.

[Coops_13]

M: 30 mins peloton

T: Guanella Pass. Fourth session on Dark Horse V10. Mad dash out before a work trip to get it done before Squamish. Arrived to find a damp boulder, a storm had just gone through. All holds surprisingly were dry but the top. Warmed up slowly, went and checked the top had dried then starting going at it. Second go heel popped after I latched the top crux hold. Spent two more goes trying alternative heel beta which was a waste of energy. RH feeling pretty wasted and nervous about getting injured before Squamish but pulled on for a fifth go (previous session only managed three good attempts). Felt weak through the lower section, took my time to set the heel and managed to finish it off. Proper last go of the day. First of the grade and such a good boulder. Psyched for the season to come!


T: Bulgarian Split squats 65lb X5 *5sets. Bench press 165lb X5 *3sets. 20 mins peloton

S: Squamish. Started off in Heartbreak Hotel area with Trad Killer V4. Looked at Wormworld Cav V9 but too humid. Over to the Fuzz V7, one of the best 7s I've done. Then we tried Mantra V8, very close but no send. Took a v long time to send It's About Time V5 (sandbag) then flashed Timeless V5 to finish

S: 2 mile walk exploring boulders of Grand Wall and Apron

[Duma]

Nice one Coops! Looks brilliant!

M - eve, Cheddar, Remnant, back on Bristol Weed, third session. Linked to undercut (move 6) straight away, tried some foot tweaks for move 8 and 9 but think I'm sticking with original plan. Went to the belay twice to refamiliarise myself with the top groove in case I make it through the bottom. Twice linked from floor to holding side pull (move , sorting feet (hard), then falling on move 9 (move 10 is to a decent 3 finger crimp, should have a good chance from here). Psyched with progress, especially as feeling knackered after 7 out of 8 days on.
T - eve, run, hilly, trail, 7k, 44min (TBF I did walk up the big hill and stopped to chat to a mate on the way home). Hawthorn still smelling amazing, elderflower and cow parsley good too.
W - eve, TCA, 2 hrs. Did all new purple set to warm up and for some volume (32 problems 5 to 6B), then worked on the blacks I'd not done downstairs. Progress on all 4 problems, ticked one, fell matching the finish on one, did one in overlapping halves, and did all but the last move of one.
T -  eve, TCA, 1 hr. Knackered but nothing else to do. Slight progress on 1 black but a waste of time really. Feeling tweaky, especially L arm and fingers. Should have rested.
F - eve looong drive to lakes.
S - Lakes, Gillercoombe. Bit of a brutal slog up past Sour Milk Ghyll to approach (we were staying at seathwaite), but great spot. Lots of good stuff 4 to 6B, plus the well named Awesome Arete 6C, and pleased to do The Arete 7B, and Poor Man's Caution 7A quickly. Fantastic first day
S - Lakes, Honister Pass. Tired legs so roadside. Not loads here but stunning place, and the road is quiet enough not to be a bother. Did pretty much everything on the North and Beefcake boulders,  again plenty of problems 4 to 6B, with a couple of 6C+ and a 7A thrown in. Thought nearly everything on Beefcake was excellent, and The Arete 6B on North boulder was great too. Skin and legs vetoed the slog up to the high boulders for the harder stuff. Swim in Derwentwater after. Another amazing day.

71.5kg

Loving the lakes bouldering, obviously stunning weather this weekend has helped! Shame it's such a trek from Bristol, even a BH weekend feels like a high driving to climbing ratio.

[duncan]

On the plus side, I’ve lost more than 2kg, off to Fairhead and next week's weather looks glorious!

Top tip: take plenty of clothes! Coldest crag ever. I went once at this time of year and underestimated the cold north easterlies and the fact most of the crag is in shade.

Dark Forces is one of the best E3/5.11s in the UK if you’re going well.

Noted. Weather is still amazing and not too cold even at Binnagapple. Getting some E2s done, some steady (Hurricane) and others pretty uphill (Sandpiper)!