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Minos at Cheedale (Read 2107 times)

Adam Lincoln

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Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 06:40:12 pm
Is this defunct now? Last ascent was Pete Dawson over a year ago, according to ukc anyway.

Seems to have lots of loose rock on start after winter and no chalk. First move seems really really hard now, harder than say Entre.

Does it still get done or does it need some glue?

Wood FT

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#1 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 07:40:39 pm
I vaguely remember it breaking and it was already very very hard. Worth asking Mirf about it as he did the link from it into his new finish of Abberation in the recent past?

Adam Lincoln

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#2 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 07:41:45 pm
Rob mirfin?

Wood FT

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#3 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 07:45:59 pm
If he's the chap with steel fingers, yes.

T_B

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#4 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 08:00:57 pm
Unpopular opinion but there’s an argument for stripping the bolts. The reason they’re so poorly positioned up high was presumably so that they couldn’t be clipped from Nadin’s trad route, Flight of Icarus? Having done that route a couple of years ago I personally feel they detract from it. One is by your right foot after the crux. And the top of FofI takes the top groove feature direct, whereas Minos/Celebration kind of shuffles up to the right. Minos/Celebration is a pretty meh route IMO.

Adam Lincoln

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#5 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 08:06:05 pm
Fair play Tom. Not fussed either way. Did it one from move in to top and seemed one move way out of character. Lots of choss loose rock also.


T_B

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#6 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 21, 2023, 08:20:55 pm
The start was out of character before it sounds like it’s broken further.

If you’re down there with a rack I really recommend Flight. Good rock, tekkers and the top groove is well exciting.

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 22, 2023, 10:56:18 am
Yeah, first move was always desperate, I may have only done it once for the redpoint. A bit snappy for the next section, improves with height, doesn't sound any different tbh.

mrjonathanr

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#8 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 22, 2023, 11:08:37 am
The start was out of character before it sounds like it’s broken further.

If you’re down there with a rack I really recommend Flight. Good rock, tekkers and the top groove is well exciting.

Always though this looked good...and appreciate there's a hint in the name.

Is this 'exciting' (big lob, injury unlikely) or 'exciting' (dangerous, don't fall)?

T_B

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#9 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 22, 2023, 11:22:51 am
Decent lob potential but not dangerous.

Having thought about this some more, the reality is routes like Flight don’t get much traffic and so need cleaned. How would that be possible without access provided by the adjacent sport route?! Perhaps best not to cut off my trad nose to spite my face ;).

I just hope when Celebration has its bolts replaced they don’t get any closer to Flight.

mrjonathanr

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#10 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 22, 2023, 11:25:13 am
Thanks for the reply :thumbsup:

mic_b

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#11 Re: Minos at Cheedale
May 31, 2023, 07:20:43 pm
Is this defunct now? Last ascent was Pete Dawson over a year ago, according to ukc anyway.

Seems to have lots of loose rock on start after winter and no chalk. First move seems really really hard now, harder than say Entre.

Does it still get done or does it need some glue?

Hi I was there today and saw a guy trying it, it looked the same as when I did it back in 2016. I don't think anything has come off the start. 

You have your right hand on a good nobly flatly and sort of matched left hand on a not so good bit, high left foot and fire up to small undercut for LH.

It’s a tough move could be 7A-B range.

I really enjoyed it. Please don’t strip the bolts anyone  :o

spidermonkey09

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#12 Re: Minos at Cheedale
August 07, 2023, 11:35:55 am
Unpopular opinion but there’s an argument for stripping the bolts. The reason they’re so poorly positioned up high was presumably so that they couldn’t be clipped from Nadin’s trad route, Flight of Icarus? Having done that route a couple of years ago I personally feel they detract from it. One is by your right foot after the crux. And the top of FofI takes the top groove feature direct, whereas Minos/Celebration kind of shuffles up to the right. Minos/Celebration is a pretty meh route IMO.

Has this been rebolted in the very recent past? I was trying Celebration yesterday and thought the top bolts were positioned fine, not hard to clip at all. I thought it was very good, and Flight of Icarus looked good too. Can't see why they can't coexist. There's definitely no need for any rebolting anytime soon, they're perfect new looking glue ins on the top section.

 

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