[shark]

-12 stone

M.

T. Home warm up. Tor with Mina. Good connies. Two goes on the AM headwall. Worked on the micro beta discovered previous Friday. Did ok. After practised doing the crux of Bens statically in 5 sets of 3. Got the crimp properly twice

W.

T. Tor. Same routine as Thursday in warmer conditions. Also reacquainted myself with Crucifixion.

F. Drove to Devon

S. Weighted deadhangs and pull-ups on a campus rung. Had the wrong combo of plates, no brush and sub optimal state of mind

S. Back to Sheffield

A few marginal gains. More Tor this week

[monkoffunk]

M - New physio regime, which has much more focus on gaining strength in unbalanced areas. Yoga with additional stretches.
T - Sub maximal hangs with +5kg.
W - Physio again. It’s much harder than the ‘strength’ stuff I was doing before!
T - Just yoga.
F - Physio, strength and stretches.
S - Work day. Repeaters in eve, 7 on 13 off 10 reps 1 set. Was going to do more but eyes closing so went to sleep instead. 
S - Yoga. PT stretches.

More finger stuff next week. PT includes some lock off work with lots of room for progression.

[Aussiegav]

Countdown to 50 in Asturias
Fly out on Friday. Can’t wait. Last full week of training before the trip.

Monday -

Dawn session at the Depot
Fingerboard session at  the Depot.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets.

4x4s to finish

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
4x4s at the Depot


Thursday
Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight + 1kg repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 5 sets. 1min rest between sets. Felt good on these.

45 min Peloton ride

Friday
Rest day

Saturday
Rest day

Sunday
Projecting day at Two Tier.
Goal of the day was Quality Control, 7a. People were on it when we arrived so I went up Inbetweeners, 7a+. Got completely shut down. Need to have a better warm up.
Came down and QC was free, so I went up to the 4th bolt. Couldn’t hang the holds to put a draw in. Took the whip and came down for a rest.
Next go I stick clipped the 4th bolt and then worked all the moves to the top.
Sun came on to the wall called it a day.
Psyched to get back on it.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - Board climbing. PB on current project, pleasantly surprised. Thruster, back work.
Tue -  AM as usual. PM goblet squat and push.
Wed - French ball, boxing bag.
Thu - good mornings 5x5 100 kg 5x5 90 kg with pause, bentover rows, bar work. Nice.
Fri - board climbing, another good session. Long links and static.
Sat - light weights.
Sun - light weights.
Good week on the board. Little volume on the rest. Must keep an eye on right wrist...

[Will Hunt]

Tu - Malham after work. Put clips in Baboo. New Dawn start is broken so had a top rope go. Pulled past broken start then went up and stuck the move to the pinch but fell on the move after (this move feels like the crux). Shook briefly then pulled on from the big layaway under the crux and linked through to the top. This felt good as I find it harder to unclip draws than clip them and the clips weren't extended.

Sa - Kilnsey. After bolt to bolting had a couple of burns on Dominatrix, falling each time on the move off the flatty to enter the pre-roof groove. Frustrating as this is a bit blind and precise but when you get the hold you should be able to almost rest your way up the groove. On 2nd go I went to the top after a brief shake and had a respectable throw at the crux so there is promise. Definitely the best I've ever felt on the route.

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Rest
T: Yoga, physio and Aerocap(ish) @ AW - 2 x 4 @ F6b. 2 x F6b+ (no rest)...
W: Sheaf Bloc - PE circuit (confirmed @ F7b/+ by someone other than me!), smashed all the hard moves out the park then slid off the easy finish - twice!!
T: Rest
F: Drive t'lakes
S: Walk up Gable - Planned to do Needle Ridge into Pinacle Ridge and drop back down the walkers path. GF not feeling well and I stupidly checked weather as we got to Kern Knotts - She opted to do a few there rather than yomp over to the Needle and potentially get rained on... Did a brilliant 2 pitch VS in a oner but GF struggled to 2nd and wanted to bail so I abbed off, retrieved gear and sloped off to the pub... Stayed dry all day, gutted!
S: SUP and paddle on Windemere. Fun.

Frustrating week - Feeling a bit tired and GF being ill on our big mountain day (was hoping for big exposure to get head in gear for Verdon) wasn't great - nice to get out in The Lakes again tho.
 

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7a outdoors again
MTG: Do a Font 6c in Font in October


Weds: Depot session after long day in the office. Getting sweaty / unpleasant now. Elbow still grumbling but managed on of the new V5s.
Sat: Swimming with (now very keen) eldest. I am a terrible swimmer. Ended up doing 10 or more lengths, can't keep up with her now.
Sun: Full day - loads of gardening, session of chasing kids on their bikes up and down the lane near us, then did a post-dinner walk that ended up being about 5km.


Also put up my Insta-friendly / Wim Hof-wannabe cold water therapy pod. Had a 5 min dunk in it, definitely felt better for it. Need to keep that up.

[Duma]

Power Club
M - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 60 min. Just did everything on the reset big island section (mostly slabby). Approx 30 problems, about 10 at V4 or above, 6 tricky, 2 I didn't flash. The V7 held out for a while but got it just before I had to get back to work
T - eve, Cheddar, Remnant, first after work session of the year. Back on Bristol Weed, second session, first was last September (the day after which I fucked my elbow for the whole autumn and much of the winter). Took a few goes to remember beta, and found some good tweaks. By the time got dark had linked twice from the ground to not quite holding the drop knee up to the RH pinch/sidepull. Also linked from the here to the undercut rest on Just Say No, and most importantly got the foot moves largely sorted. Psyched!
W - eve, run, hilly, trail, 6k, 32min. Hawthorn smelled amazing.
T -  eve, TCA, 2 hrs, new blacks (nominally 6C-7B) tried all downstairs, 19 problems, flashed 8, 6 did quick, 1 with a bit of work, 3 put a fair bit of effort in and got close to but didn't seal the deal, 1 only had one go, seemed nails.
F -
S - afternoon, Ban-y-Gor, first time here for a couple of years. Spunk Trumpet 6c to warm up, second go after misreading it at the end. Then flashed Dry Day 6c+ after Si had worked it out. Then over to crawl buttress, did the worthwhile boulder problem of Gordonzilla 7a+ after a couple of goes. Dogged up Too Hot To Touch 7b but wasted so stripped it. Brilliant route though, keen to get back on it. Finished off with The Disillusioned Bronto Machine 6c+. Lush day, despite the unimpressive ticklist.
S - lunch, TCA, blacks upstairs. 12 problems, flashed 4, 4 quickly, 1 spent some time on a sideways slab/comp dyno but didn't do it, 3 seemed nails. Tried a couple downstairs that I'd not done on Thursday, but had gone backwards so sacked it.

71.5kg

Feeling pretty knackered after a lot of climbing, might need a few more rest days this week.

[Coops_13]

M: 1.8mile walk. 35 mins peloton

T: 2.5mile walk. Guanella Pass. Second session on Dark Horse V10. Lower section much more consistent. Repeated falls at top crux. Best go, I hit lip of top crux hold - need one more cm. Stopped when core starting going and dry-fired off an early crimp

W: 2.3mile walk. Bulgarian Split squats 75lb X5 *5sets. Bench press 185lb X3 *3sets. 215lb 1RM, new PR. Front lever pulls, surprised myself by holding my first ever front lever! Did four holds between 2 - 4 seconds each with questionable form. Shoulder press, bicep curl, diagonal raise. 25 mins peloton

T: 2mile walk. Lurgy, some kind of virus

F: Board session, feeling a lot better but still underpowered

S: 45 mins peloton

S: Guanella Pass. Third session on Dark Horse V10. Had three good burns before skin and fingers gave way. Fell on crux hold each time. L foot beta helped get over the hold but couldn't latch it as I kept not quite getting it right. Poor tactics as sun was in the eyes so difficult to get aim right. 20 mins peloton