[Coops_13]

M: 15 mins peloton

T: Board session. Lots of projects went down including potentially the board's first V9. 30 mins Peloton

W: Legs and Chest. Bulgarian split squats. Bench press. Romanian deadlifts. Shoulder press, Bice curls, Diagonal raise, Lateral raise. 45  mins peloton

T: 10 mins peloton. Board session - a lot of limit projecting and one proj send. Weighted pull-ups 90lb X3 *3

S: Wild Basin. Summer trailhead still closed so hiked in from Winter trailhead. c. 45 mins to boulder. First session on Hamburglar Extension V10. V close to doing big crux move and worked all other moves. Would need to be a bit stronger to do this - may leave it to late season to return

S: 25 mins peloton. Hike up Green Mountain. 4.1 miles, 736ft elevation gain.

[Duma]

Another strong week Coops!

M - Portland, Coastguard North. In retrospect a poor choice of crag as it needs afternoon sun and it was the last day so leaving mid afternoon. Repeated the brilliant Into The Groove 6b+, and less brilliant (at least until the sun burns off the super smeg it suffers from) Retaining The Ashes to warm up, then attempted OS on Wax Museum 7b+. Terrible effort, missed a good foothold getting into the chipped mono, then took 10+ goes even to do the crux move, and it didn't even relent much, still pumpy to the chains. Connies were pretty bad, but I was nowhere near anyway. Some lovely flowstone, but a brutal crux off a drilled mono does not make for a classic IMHO. Felt easily 7c too. Lap on the excellent Lost In Rock 6c+ to finish.
T - rest
W - eve TCA, 2 hrs, mostly whites. Did 12, plus 2 blacks. Got moves on one, couldn't do a move on the slab one, and wrote off another as it felt like it was tweaking my dodgy knee.
T - lunch Flashpoint Swindon, 1 hr, trying hardish things.(high 6's - low 7's). Did 5, probably 6B+, 6C, 6C+ 6C+ 7A+. But if time working 2 more. Felt tired and tweaky, 16hrs between sessions not enough.
F - eve TCA, 90 min, whites and moonboard. Finished the remaining 4 whites downstairs (excluding the 45 which I wrote off on Weds). 1 straightforward, 1 had an unlikely crux move that took a couple of goes to stick but not really that hard. Pleased with the other 2, tried both on Wednesday, but fresher on the burly one, and better footwork on the slab this time. Fell off a few mid 6"s on the moonboard too.
S -
S - got psyched to tick off some more of my Cheddar 7a list, then realised it was a bh weekend. Wyndcliffe for some pottering in the sun, 6a+, 6c+, 6c, 6a, all OS.

71.5kg

[Will Hunt]

M - went up Baboo and got Jim to shout up the beta. Just about got it to work but felt hard. Did all the moves but didn't link it all.

Th - Yorkshire Traverse. Had a few cursory pull ups on a flat jug, did the stand to Piranesi a couple of times, then pulled on and shambled to the end, engaging full try-hard mode for the last couple of easy moves on Piranesi. That's the full modern link done, starting from sit under the roof (the back of the cave start seems defunct since the ravine excavation) and finishing up the recently cleaned left-hand side.
Vid here if anyone is interested in doing it - I could only get the left-hand half of the front face in shot. https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cr1ZF9TNEGH/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
).
Then started looking at a reverse and did that from the stand of Piranesi, finishing by pulling onto a block at the far right. Objectively a crap way to finish but works better than a drop off.
Had another look at Marvellous Martin and did actually do the first move. Progress!
I'm enthusiastic about all the possible links on this roof. The holds are very skin friendly and all are open-handed drags. There's a couple of rest points along the way where you hang a flatty with heels on and shake out, so you're training mid-climb recovery. Tonnes of potential.

Sa - Baboo. Session goal was to link the crux. Ended up refining the sequence to make it more suitable for the tall. Linked it, got a sequence sorted for the headwall, relearnt the New Dawn start. Had an experimental redpoint at the end and got the set up at the start of the crux done then fell off the first of the two hardest moves. Loads more progress than I expected. Psyche!

[duncan]

Some lovely flowstone, but a brutal crux off a drilled mono does not make for a classic IMHO. Felt easily 7c too.

Sounds like the non-drilled 7c version is less injurious too. Time to fill in the mono? Although you could say the same for many of the easier 6s at Portland which have a drilled slot or two to maintain a consistent grade.   

M - Westway, with Bilbo and autobelay. Routes to 6c including a stylish flash of the 6b+ crack which got a round of applause from a Radio 2/4/6 presenter. It’s grim up West London.
T - Legs conditioning: frog squats, single leg squats, heel raises. Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, press-ups, side planks, lock-offs and so on.
W - Westway, with The Engineer. Overcooked the warm-up fingerboarding on top of already feeling a bit tired from Monday. Eventually had a good session including some falling practice. Had a right battle on the last 6b+, a rare but satisfying indoor try-hard.
T - 8km walk.
F - Legs conditioning.
S - Westway bouldering. Usual story: steep ‘V2’s are nails, slabby ‘V4's are flashable. In the spirit of working weaknesses, I threw myself repeatedly at ‘V2/3’s on the board until I got up one.
S - Battered. Walked 10km.

Managed two PE sessions in a week without elbows protesting which is a definite win. Last week of single parenthood, just in time for the monsoon!

[monkoffunk]

M - Long day work. Full rest day.

T - Run. Was going to check out potential wall by sea for traversing. Set out and realised had forgotten shoes. Almost turned around and went home, but instead just ran random route I’d never gone before, down along cliff top. Amazing sunset, listening to nugget podcast with Alex Honnold.

W - Something resembling max hangs built up to 3 10 sec hangs with 10kg. Feels like scope for a significant improvement. Not entirely sure what BW is right now!

T - Warm, up few hangs, but too tired to have sensible session, so sacked it.

F - Mix of strength/conditioning and repeaters. Elbow good. Maybe improvement?? Realised I’m not engaging core enough on over head shoulder presses. Makes me arch back a bit and think this is giving my slight upper back pain, have a point of tenderness exactly over T12 spinous process. Next week dropping weight to focus on form.

S - Yoga only.

S - Avon. So long since I was a local! Had forgotten what to expect. Arrived about 2030. Soapy conditions. Vaguely tried to repeat The Arete, remembering it felt easy on actual ascent. Despite decent beta felt very awkward. Flailed briefly loosing skin. Did not remember how sharp it was. Took a couple of barn-door falls that sent me sprawling hands into the grass. I have a scar on my palm from broken glass sustained the last time I was here in 2016. Bit more careful this time.

Next tried 6C varient of Savage Crack i.e. the non eliminate way. Couple of climbers there trying Prince who leant me extra pads. Figured a sequence to put me staring at a jump for the top but somehow couldn’t commit despite pads and a spot. Should have gone for it.

Few goes on Pauper. As it got darker some stars appeared. Then the streetlights came on and the stars vanished and instead the glass shards started to sparkle. Climbed to the strains of a rave on the other side of the river. Magical. Made some progress before the slight pain in the back from earlier in the week began to aggravate from falling. Quite disappointing that, feel a bit like I’m falling slightly apart with the elbow as well. 

Couple of final goes on The Arete before sacking it home to watch episode of Bridgerton with parents. Somehow less awkward than Avon. 

I need to relearn the movement of this place and it’s harder without regular climbing. Style so different from the Dorset limestone I’m used too. I found absolutely no flow with the moves. I just hope the grease was a significant factor. In the positive, I should get here more often now with a pad stashed in my parents garage. There is tons for me to do if I can heal my various injuries.

[Will Hunt]

Some lovely flowstone, but a brutal crux off a drilled mono does not make for a classic IMHO. Felt easily 7c too.

Sounds like the non-drilled 7c version is less injurious too. Time to fill in the mono? Although you could say the same for many of the easier 6s at Portland which have a drilled slot or two to maintain a consistent grade.   

Isn't it wild to see ourselves tie ourselves in knots over pre-placed runners, bolts, pegs, wet n' easy trad etc etc etc when limestone is a lawless wild west of chisel-wielding desperados who answer to nobody?

[AJM]

Sounds like the non-drilled 7c version is less injurious too. Time to fill in the mono? Although you could say the same for many of the easier 6s at Portland which have a drilled slot or two to maintain a consistent grade.   

I had one go at this several years ago but my hazy memory makes me pretty skeptical it would only be 7c without the mono.

From memory I didn't find the mono itself too tweaky (I think I had some other fingers involved on the rock around it, or perhaps a vertical stack or something, I can't remember), but I do remember the move from it being pretty hard! The feet are pretty small, I recall?

Which 6s are you thinking of, incidentally?

[duncan]

I had one go at this several years ago but my hazy memory makes me pretty skeptical it would only be 7c without the mono.

From memory I didn't find the mono itself too tweaky (I think I had some other fingers involved on the rock around it, or perhaps a vertical stack or something, I can't remember), but I do remember the move from it being pretty hard! The feet are pretty small, I recall?

Fair enough, the nearest I've been to it is reading the comments on UKC!

Which 6s are you thinking of, incidentally?

Talk and Well Done Poppet come to mind because I've done them recently, in both cases in the compact rock just before the lower-off. The latter goes from 5c to about 6a+ if you avoid the manufactured holds. There are definitely others.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - clean 5x10 90 %. Bar work.
Tue -  BM pockets, front2 are back. Realized I was being slack on mid2 and upped to +8 kg. Back2 went well. The mood lift that a successful BM session can give me, only goes to show that I'm either very lucky or very stupid.
Wed - good mornings 5x5 100 kg, 5x5 90 kg. Bentover rows.
Thu - AM as usual. PM board climbing, finally after 4 weeks. Sub par but not dramatic. Season over, on to the Summer plan.
Fri - AM as usual. PM wheel and hammer, goblet squat and push, thruster. Heavy.
Sat - loaded carries, light weights.
Sun - boxing bag. I sincerely don't know where I found the energy.

[Duma]

Isn't it wild to see ourselves tie ourselves in knots over pre-placed runners, bolts, pegs, wet n' easy trad etc etc etc when limestone is a lawless wild west of chisel-wielding desperados who answer to nobody?

TBF Wax Museum is from 1990

[Duma]

The mood lift that a successful BM session can give me, only goes to show that I'm either very lucky or very stupid.

Lol!

[shark]

~11.12

M. Delayed going to Wales as dog unwell. She perked up in afternoon so went out to Millstone so Jerry could do Great North Road HVS. I did Embankment Route 4 E1. Funny to watch Billy Ridal do some fall practice on Embankment Route 3.

T. Drove in van to LPT and we did a couple of easier routes on the right side. Nigel B et al there and we were then joined by Harriet. Then led Twisting by the Pool 6b+ and had a torrid time on Jacuzzi Jive failing to even get to the top then on the second attempt grabbed the last draw. Assumed it was 6c or 6c+ as it was E4 before being retro bolted but later found out it was 7a which a small consolation but still failing on a retro bolted route that I’d flashed as a trad route 33 years ago was dispiriting. Had intended to have a play in Statement but spent after that.

W Over to Gogarth to do Dream of White Horses. Wasted a bit of time trying to locate the right gully to go down. Two parties already climbing. Abbed into the shoulder but held up by team ahead. Still a great outing. Drove to Llanberis

T High winds in the morning curtailed the plan to do Left Wall so bailed to Craig Y Forwyn bumping into Nigel B again. Jerry reticent about trad lime so I led both Fidos Redemption HVS and Freedom E2 which I did in one pitch and thoroughly enjoyed. Did have a moment on the crux when a large foothold audibly gave way but somehow stayed attached.  On way out had a good natter with the farmer. Drove back to Sheffield

F. Couldn’t quite believe how knackered I felt

S.

S. Had hoped to go to Cratcliffe but previous afternoons rain led us to Stanage in the afternoon which turned out lovely. Super busy though unsurprisingly. Bumped into Nan who is starting to get back into it after a long layoff. Jerry led the Unconquerable’s and I led Billiard Buttress which is practically a solo and snuck in Between the Two on the way down sans mat. Then led Millsom’s Minion E1. Finished with a quick look at Crescent Arête but decided it would be foolish in the heat without mats much as I love it.

Jerry on the way back to the States now. Happy to have given him a good sample of what the UK has to offer and enjoyed revisiting a bunch of classics.

Still feeling aimless but keeping the faith.

[Aussiegav]

Asturias Club.

YYFY. My wife has gave me an airfare ticket & the green light for a 4 day trip to Asturias for my 50th on the 26th.  Last holiday was October 2019. So I’m so excited & motivated. Just under 4 weeks to get route ready. 


Monday -
Double laps on circuit boards at the Depot

Jugs. 6a+  2 sets.
Red circuit 6b (2min rest between laps)
2 moves short on 2nd lap
Yellow circuit
5 moves short.  Skin sore
Jugs 6a+
Skin was so sore. So stopped there. Skin seems the limiting factor.

Tuesday

Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets.

45 min peloton ride

Wednesday
Rest


Thursday
Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 5 sets. 1min rest between sets. Last set was very hard


Friday
Rest

Saturday
Mobility & very light sprint work
ery gentle run throughs over 20m.

Went to Depot at 1pm.
Did 4x4 boulders. 
4x8 move problems back to back. 3. Minutes rest between sets.

Sunday
Rest.