[Coops_13]

Two weeks:

M 17th - T 27th Board, peloton repeat

F: 10 mins Peloton. Hike in to brush fresh snow off boulder for tomorrow

S: Hick Boulder, Maxwell Falls. Warmed up and sent Cowboy Love V9 maybe fourth go of the day (second session), psyched. Worked out the moves then gave three burns at Fat Cowboy V10 which links Cowboy Love into the end of a V8 I've done before. Pumpy stuff... Fell off the end three times - would need more PE to send


S: Newlin Creek. New venue for me, 2.5h from home in the Wet Mountains. Amazing granite, very Squamish-esque. Bear Trap V7 to start. Got lost but eventually found Pineapple Express V5. Wet crux hold but managed it with rag-tactics. Finished off on the classic Atari V4.

[duncan]

That all looks very good Coops.

M - Still tired. Walked 9km.
T - Portland with csl featuring a special guest appearance from the Retired Super Alpinist (now relocated to Dorset, the bastard!). Arrived early, warmed-up badly on Talk. Belayed csl who dispatched Portland Heights smoothly putting the clips in. Gave this three tries, top roping and leading, but never managed it with less than three rests. Arms didn’t feel fully recovered from Saturday, the route seems tough for the grade, punchy power-endurance has never been my strong point, I found the run-out quite scary and didn't try-hard. Had to leave late afternoon due to domestic obligations but arms were rinsed at this point so it didn’t really matter.
W - Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, press-ups, side planks, lock-offs and so on. Walked 12 km.
T - Westway with The Engineer. Led 10 routes to 6b+. Some falls practice.
F - Shoulders, 11km walk.
S - Shoulders, 11km walk.
S - Shoulders as above. Legs conditioning (single leg squats, heel raises, frog squats).

Falls: 150


Great to get out with csl and to see the RSA. The lad managed to look after himself and heads remained attached. Felt like the falls practice had worn off although it's hard to be confident when the clock is ticking rapidly on steeper ground.

A couple more weeks of solo parenting, will continue with the PE/short endurance work, and get back to the falls practice if I can find willing daytime belayers.  It could be good to have a return match with Portland Heights at some point, the climbing is great, it's the right grade, and it definitely challenges a couple of weaknesses.

Slightly tangentially, feeling more than usually old and decrepit as my right hip has become increasingly stiff and painful over the last couple of months. I had an x-ray around 10 years ago which showed about 50% of the cartilage had gone and it might be time to get another. I've let the legs' conditioning lapse - cause or effect? - so will restart this.

[shark]

~11.11

M.

T. Home warm up. Tor. 3 failed attempts at THFML. Surprised myself by successfully doing the throw move then even more surprised to do it statically albeit getting the crimp as a drag. A few hopeless goes on the start. Picked by US friend Jerry W up from the train station. His first ever visit to the UK. Eve. Stanage. We both soloed Via Media VS and Rusty Wall HVS. I did Via Dexter finishing up the groove and Hargreaves

W. High Tor. Jerry lost confidence on Original Route HVS so I took over. Ruled out Debauchery so I led Darius E3 which always feels a stretch. Near the top instead of continuing left as normal I hastily went direct and instantly found myself irretrievably out of balance and was off which was a 30 foot fall onto the ancient bolt which I’d extended. Can’t remember the last time I took a proper fall on trad like that. Was too high up to lower off so had to suck it up and finish the route which I nearly came off again despite going left.

T. Stanage. Jerry led Hargreaves VS, Inverted V HVS and Retroversion VS before it started raining

F. Home warm up. Tor to meet James K. Overcast. Did THFML first time and again did the throw move statically but again just getting as a drag. Decided on Horseshoe for Jerry as it would most likely be dry but I was a bit embarrassed to take him there. We both led Megalithic Man 6b+ and Private Prosecution 6c. I then used up most of my remaining Finger Strength clipping the third bolt of Legal Action 6c using the wrong footholds and handholds. Then took a couple of attempts from the ground to climb past it and on to the top.

S.

S.

Cold now gone along with my car. Tried to make the best of the unsettled weather. Planning to go to North Wales in the van this week. Excited about progress on doing the throw move statically as this should make it more low %. Be better if I can work out how to get that extra cm of reach so can get it as a crimp to save converting it to one from dragged. Think I’m going to cut back on the booze after Jerry goes back as getting fed up of having a mild hangover every morning.

[Aussiegav]

  impressive Shark

Monday -
Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets. Skipped the 3rd set.
Seem to be in a slump with finger strength for the last month.

Tuesday
Depot in the evening.
Did warm up but had nothing there.
Did a 6b circuit. Tried 1min on:1min off feet on Campusing. DId 2 sets
Did wrist curls. 8kg. 
Stopped the session. Felt tired.


Wednesday


Thursday
Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets. Felt better this session. Shortened the warm up.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Mobility & sprint work
Hamstring felt better. Able to do all mobility exercises and drills. Very gentle run throughs over 20m.

Went to Horseshoe Quarry at 1pm.
Did 3 routes. School’s Out 6a+, Rotund Rooley 6b, Shot the Conformist 6b+ Onsight. Pleased with this, good route. Started raining as I finished the route.

Sunday
Went to the Depot
Mapped out a 38 move circuit on the hardwood circuit board. Then did weights session

Military Press
1x10 bar
3x8. Bar plus 10kg

Dumbbell chest fly. Inclined
3x 10.  10kg.

10 Asian squats
Seated pistol squats (off mats)
3sets x5 each leg

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - TBDL from blocks 5x6 120 kg 5x6 110 kg. Bar work. Short on time.
Tue - clean and press 5x5 50 kg. Very hard. 5x5 45 kg. Lattice edge back3 one arm - 12,5 kg. 2 cm one arm long hangs.
Wed - DL from blocks up to 140 kg. Good mornings 5x5 100 kg. Bentover rows, bar work.
Thu - AM as usual. PM 20' loaded carries: farmer's 100 kg 30", 30" rest, overhead/shoulder 1'30", rest until 5'.
Fri - AM as usual. PM goblet squat and press, Lattice edge back3 one arm, 2 cm one arm long hangs.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - regular weights.

[Will Hunt]

Tu - evening at Malham. Didn't get my eating right so felt hungry on arrival which wasn't ideal. Had a RP go on Herbie but messed up the start and fell off the last move that you could fall off.

Sa - Herbie. Nailed the start and crux and had something in reserve on every move. Shake at half height and on to the top. Great feeling. Later clip sticked up l'ob Session which felt hard but my heart wasn't in it.

[Duma]

Some good weeks there, well done all!

M - eve TCA,  2 hrs, blacks and blues. 5 blacks, 1 blue, fair bit of work on 2 others.
T - eve, TCA, 90 min, whites and blacks. 2 whites, decent progress on one of the harder blacks.
W - eve, run, 8k, hilly, trail, 43 min.
T - lunch, Flashpoint Swindon, 1 hr, easy (hah!) volume. Everything in the centre "V1" to "V4" (in reality 4 to 6b) nonstop. 59 problems, 1 slip. Did all (6) the circuits and "routes" on the (gimmicky) "beast" between 6a and 6c+ too. Fell off a  couple of moves from the end of a 6b+. Knackered.
F - rest. Eve drive to South coast.
S - Portland, Wallsend North. Gay Dog 6a+ to warm up (awful, snappy and dirty first half, decent few meters, dirty finish). Then got the OS on Stay Golden 7b, one of the trio of classic 7b's on this wall. Excellent sustained climbing, psyched to keep it together. Flashed a couple of 7a's too: Old Speckled Hen and Up On The Hill. Former was a bit meh (though perhaps largely due to a sizeable amount of mud that has come down it over the winter) and the latter a decent sequency rib. Watched Remus smash out the quality looking Sang Froid 7c too, though felt too knackered to join him. Brief dip on the way out. Top day.
S - Portland, rain in morning so lunchtime start, opted for neddyfields as lots of easier stuff for people to gain confidence on. The central section turned out to be under a BMC advisory to avoid due to widening cracks above the cliff, so we stuck to the right wing and it turned out to be a really fun afternoon. 6a, 6a, 6a, 6a+, 5+, 6a, 6c+, 7a, 6c, 6c, all OS except the 7a (flash) and the 6c+ (2nd go).

71.5kg

[tommytwotone]

LTG: new (to me) Font 7a outside
STG: get fit enough / strong enough to make LTG happen

W: Down in London for work, another lad I work with is a climber so we swerved the after offsite beers in favour of a trip to a wall near Canary Wharf. Strange setup - lots of little walls in rabbit-warren of under railway arches location. Good session, lots of volume, but didn't really do anything that hard.

Sun: Armley Depot with my sister who was visiting (non-climber) and my youngest. Nice potter around coaching / helping them. Managed a fair few of the (V3-V5) reds

(Mon): 2 hours battling the ivy on the side of Casa Del Tone. Proper workout that.

[monkoffunk]

Yoga every day.

M - Yoga x2. Conditioning stuff: Theraband, shoulders/upper back. Light shoulder rotations, Cubans, flys. Light deadlifts, weighted shrugs, push-ups, back extensions, lying leg raises (this time focusing on engaging core throughout morning and keep back connected to ground). No back pain.

Elbow physio. First set pronator teres, triggered mild pain, then settled.

T - Warm up, conditioning. Pronator teres physio before fingers, again mild pain first set then improving.

Repeaters 7,13. Three sets 10, half crimp. Actually seasons best completing that. No major elbow complaints.

W - Rest mostly I think.

T - Strength stuff, similar to Monday but heavier. 

F - After physio was going to do some form of hangs but elbow not feeling it so sacked early.

S - First run in just over a month. Very short, very slow. Remembered when I came back how much better running makes me feel generally speaking. Stopped halfway to traverse on a slabby sea wall. Wondered if might be good for movement practice. A little too slabby to be of much use sadly, really just stood on my feet. There is another wall some way down the coast line to check out, it’s more vertical but the holds are maybe too small. Will have a look next week.

S - Repeaters 7,13. Half crimp. 3 sets 10 again.

Stepped up weight on physio exercises. Holding off on pull ups seems sensible, elbow seems at least stable which has got to be good!

[Fultonius]

Mon: Yoga am
Tuesday: nothing I think?

Wed: Craigmore PM. Kinda wanted to get out for a bigger day but midweek partners aren't always easy to find. Cycled out (11 miles), bouldered a bit. Flashed a 6A (wow) and tried the 7A sitter  (Terror sit) but couldn't figure out how to get the crimp. Soloed a VS crack I'd done before. I had a go on Layback Crack true finish after a mate bailed due to niggly biceps. Didn't climb too well and got really powered out hanging around in all the wrong positions. Fiddled in a poor top wire and didn't trust it. Finally got a better one in below, but only had a half hearted attempt at the climbing above before slumping back on the gear. 

Went for another go and it was pretty mellow, climbed better and had no issues at all. Trad eh?

Cycled home.

Friday: quick max hangs session (90%) with +15kg. Noticeably weaker on strict HC than chisel.
Saturday: TCA sesh with OH. Max hangs took it out of me!  (also maybe the dinner &drinks Friday). Climbing well on tech stuff but had no power/zip n the burl.

Bit of a "meh" week. Too many bitty things pulling me in various directions, work situation is getting critical which makes it harder to focus on climbing so you end up having dissatisfying periods where you don't seem to really *do* much despite being busy all the time.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Been MIA for a few weeks - Sorry bout that.

Basically been trying routes indoors up to F7b+, getting spanked on the 25 degree moonboard and ramping up the fingerboarding... Had 2 dodgy elbows, cut down on the booze and cakes, seen a physio and been doing rehab....

M: Wanted to get on F7a+ I'd dropped the day before but GF wasn't feeling it so warmed up really well and got on the MB.. Best session ever! Felt light and strong... Rinsed 6C project first go! (last move had been spitting me off since getting back from Font!)... Tried 6B+ project, did it second go! Then tried a new 6B only narrowly dropping the flash - rinsed next go! No idea what happened there!
T: Yoga
W: Sheaf bloc - First session this year. Was a bit cold but did all moves on my traverse and a load of stuff before getting too cold.
T: Density hangs (30s -20kg), BW repeaters and 4 x 7s hangs +10kg
F: Rest
S: Moonboard: Nothing like Monday, felt tired and heavy - Stopped for a brew then managed a tricky 6B+ I'd been failing on  ... Getting some interesting feedback on how much time I need to rest between goes on hard (for me) boulders and how warm I need to be - definitely very different to what I need for routes (and what my younger self would need)...
S: Nowt

[mr chaz]

Good work Coops, going well!

M. Evening board session - kept it short as split was still recovering, just a ticking over sort of session.
T.
W.
T. Evening board session - same again, taped up finger just to be careful.
F.
S. Day pass - weather looking mixed so though I'd check out The Gop (with Parisella's as a backup, fortunately not required). Had vague ambition of attempting E-Honda (given 7B) and then whatever else I could throw myself at. E-Honda went down with relative ease in an uncharacteristic display of execution. 1 flash go, then a go to figure out each move, then sent on first go from the ground. Get in! Went on to also do Blokesmoker (7a+), Ken Masters Finish (7a) and Your D*ck Stinks (6c+). Couldn't touch Smoke A Bloke but I was pretty spent when I got round to trying.
Excellent day for me, and plenty of psyche to check out the lower starts too.
S. DIY - laying patio.