How I fixed my Wrist injury (TFCC Ulnar) (Read 1139 times)


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How I fixed my Wrist injury (TFCC Ulnar)
April 24, 2023, 12:15:40 am
Had a nagging wrist injury for almost two years which seems to finally be ok. Here's how i fixed it:

The injury: I got the injury almost two years ago after covid lock down - i started climbing again and was working a 13a (my project at the time). I did a lot of training including kilter board. the kilter board was effective but i think along with climbing at my limit it stressed my wrist a bit. After sending the project I did a few 12's with side pulls and underclings. after one 12b with a side pull crux, my wrist start feeling pretty painful on any kind of sidepull.

The pain was so bad i stopped bouldering and  basically stopped climbing  except super easy 5.10, 11a type of stuff. Anything else hurt.

Initial recovery
i got a wrist widget and some tape. As long as i used one of those, i coudl climb easy stuff. but sidepulls still hurt.

after a while of climbing easy stuff with tape, my wrist slowly felt better but i stilll couldnt pull hard on sidepulls.

Then i met a pretty psyched friend climbing at her limit who pushed me to climb harder stuff. Weirdly, my wrist was occasionaly painful, but improved!

I found that at this point (past initial recovery and basic conditioning), climbing harder stuff actualy helped rehab the wrist.
Final recovery

ive continued to climb near my (wrists) limit since then and steadiliy improved. Near the end I found climbing without tape helped more  - the tape is a bandaid you need to get rid of for full healing.

IN conclusion the path to recovery for a wrist injury seems to be:
-rest in the beginning until you can climb easy stuff with out pain
-very gently ease back into it while taping wrist or using a wrist widget
-use pain as your guidance for intensity: try to mostly climb without pain, but a little bit of pain each session is not bad and may aid healing:  no sharp or strong pain, just an ache. 
-when you can climb without much pain, start trying to climb without tape- this is the final step of wrist recovery.

One last thing i did which i think was helpful: fingerboarding with half crimp. The half crimp position is what aggravates the wrist the most (open handed is fine), so slowly strengthening that position in the controlled situation of a fingerboard seems to be helpful.

One last thing which may or may not have helped: i did some reverse wrist curles near the end which may or may not have helped. I found that my injured hand was very weak on them.


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