[Duma]

M - eve TCA,  90 min. Whites and blues. Tried fairly hard despite poor sleep the night before. Managed two I'd tried before, one of which felt reasonably hard.
T - eve run, 6k, flat, pavement, 29 min.
W - eve TCA 90 min. Blues and blacks, tried hard, did a couple, including a hardish blue that involved a very arm intense more off a bad crimp - pleased with this one, felt like a half decent boulderer for the first time in a while.
T -
F - lunch, FP Swindon, 1 hr. Circuits, 56b (3:30), rest 3:30, 7a (2:30), rest 2:30, 7b (2:30), rest 10, 7b7a(half) (3:30), rest 3:30, 7a (2:30), rest 3:30, 7b (three quarters) (1:30), rest 3:30, 7a (1:30), rest 3:30, 7a (1:30). Did a compy volume wrestle to finish in honour of the WC season starting today.
S - long walk
S - had a window for the wall but knackered so didn't bother, think I'm fighting off the gf's cold.

71.5kg

[Wellsy]

Monday - chill climbing. Bench. OHP. Power Hangs. Squats.

Tuesday - climbing at Burbage. Nearly did Dog Sit. It'll go next time. Silly problem.

Wednesday - went to Anston and did the sum total of fuck all.

Thursday - Pulling session. 33kgs for 3 reps weighted pullups no problem. 36kgs allllllmost went.

Friday - nerd shit

Saturday - Kilter Board. Did about ten 6Cs and a 7B(!). Squats. Bench and OHP.

Sunday - tried to climb, knackered, gave up. Edge lifts.

[Will Hunt]

T - treasure hunt at Ruin Bank. All I found was an old boot with a nest of centipedes in it.

W - afternoon at Malham. Had a first look at Mescalito and found it completely perplexing.

Sa - back on Herbie. Put the clips in and tried Hobson's beta for the mono move which worked really well. Had a first RP go and recovered from a foot pop, then dithered a lot as I forgot what holds to look for next, then forgot which finger to put in the mono, yet still got through most of the crux feeling reasonably fresh. Sequence error ended the attempt. Close!
2nd RP conditions not so good and got to the same place but in a worse state. Got the sequence right but fell off.

Psyched.

[monkoffunk]

Yoga every day.

M - Recruitment pulls on finger board and yoga only.

T - St Aldhelm’s. Finally back on rock. 0530 alarm to make it to the crag at about 0740. Nice cool conditions. Warm up and then repeated The Drifter stand start to work the throw that prevented me from doing the sit before. Stand felt reasonably steady with enough rest, but quite low percentage on sit. With the aid of a book and a timer to ensure long enough rests, finally got up it. Used up most of my skin quota on this, and called it a day after a few goes on some other stuff. Gained some good information for the future!

W - Incredibly stiff plus extremely tight sore lower back. Should not have let myself become so de-conditioned. Found some good new stretches, and my wife kindly stood on my back which helped greatly.

T - Lots of pain killers and back stretching.
 
F - Yoga with some limitation, focus on back stuff. Back extensions, will aim to work something like these into routine. Pre night shift, will be limited weekend.

S - Yoga. Really stiff, but done immediately after spending all day in bed. Back stretches. Back extensions. Thera band for upper back, shoulders. Lower back feeling tonnes better. Elbow mild but aware of it when doing minor stuff like cutting cheese.

S - First thing in morning more back extensions + shoulder conditioning. Tried some lying leg raises, normally do hanging for core, but made back feel a bit worse.
Yoga, more back extensions in evening.





Clear lack of overall conditioning given can’t handle a half day bouldering without feeling like been beaten up. I did notice that although my lower back was terrible, very little DOMS in arms or shoulders, so I guess it’s the lack of more whole body focused work outs and regular climbing that is the issue. I’m not really even sure what caused it, the climbing or the long walk in…

Anyway, nice to tick off a 7A+, close to max grade, despite very limited climbing and not the most ideal training. Worth it for the pain that followed.

Now need to focus on healing the elbow this week, been lax on the physio, held up ok climbing but was aware of it.

[Aussiegav]

Monday -
Fingerboard session at home.
Body weight repeaters. 7:3ratio. 3hangs/set. 4 sets. 1min rest between sets. Skipped the 3rd set.
Seem to be in a slump with finger strength for the last month.

Tuesday
Project bouldering at the Depot after work.
20min /boulder. Felt good on the warm up routine.
1st problem. Tried the purple with the undercling and left heel. Fell on the last move twice. Good problem. Maybe next time.
2nd problem. Tried the groove with big side pulls and undercling. Couldn’t do the move off the undercling. Very high left foot, can’t generate height to the high slope.

Stopped the session. Felt tired.


Wednesday
Rest


Thursday
Mobility & Weights at the Depot

Lawn Mower starts
1x10. 15kg
3x10. 22.5kg
Military Press
1x10 bar
3x 8. Bar plus 10kg.
Bench press
1x10. Bar plus 10kg.
3x10. Bar plus 20kg
Dips
3x5
Seated pistol squats (off mats)
3x5 each leg

Friday
Rest

Saturday
Mobility & sprint work
Feeling improvements in mobility and less resistance when running. Still a long way to go though. Managed 10 sprints with increasing intensity. But on the 10th, I felt I twinge in my right hamstring.  Stopped session.

Sunday
Wanting to get outside to do more routes this year. Even if it’s only a handful of routes. With that in mind, I went to Horseshoe in the morning for a quick session before the rain.
Managed 4 tie ins.
- Any old iron. 6a
- School’s Out. 6a+
- Rage. 6b. Had a take on 4th bolt as I couldn’t reach to get the draw in.
- Redpoint Rage as the rain came.

Hamstring was tender but managed to climb relatively unaffected.

[Fultonius]

Catching up on 2 weeks here.

11th: 10 moderate boulders at TCA, then 2 x 20 mins Aerocap, finished off with a few harder routes on the autobelays. First day back after a week of illness.

13th. FB warm up, bouldering - some mid grade flashes, 6B, 6C in a few goes. Autobelay routes - 6c+, 7a, failed on 7a+ (nails hard move that I finally got later - 6B+ ish IMO - 7b+ according to DarthGrader  ) then minute on, minute off on 6c / 6c+ for some aeropow style training. Turned 40.

15th: Sport climbing at Brin with my birthday weekend crew. Crag takeover (glad no-one lese turned up) beautiful day, full blue sky, good company and good climbing. Never quite got my Birthday Tick of "whingeing consultants" (7b+ but very bouldery and powerful) but got close. Flashed a 7a+ (only done this once before in the UK) and various other routes up to 6c. Had a big fire, ate steak and BBQ, drank waaaay too much whisky, tripped about watching trees do cool things.

16th............    3 small drops of rain were enough to convince us that attempting to go bouldering was not a good idea....

Weds  26th, Tunnel Wall for a evening trip with Es and his son (11) who are in a duel to get to 8a first. Didn't quite have time for Railway Children, so had an actual redpoint burn on Uncertain Emotions (7b) which for various reasons I'd never actually done. Had a good fight at the top as I didn;t really know where I was going as I'd only quickly looked at the moves on my warm up bolt to bolt.

Thurs: Etive slabs - Hammer (HVS) with the McKenna's great craic and nice just doing something fun and low stress.
Friday: Dumby. Few goes on Bust my Chips LH, still not able to link through the sloper move. Few goes on my long temr project - Endurance (8a). Felt good on most of it, and linked from the low crux through the redpoint crux a few times, feeling better on it that last year, but struggling on the low crux that I had wired before. Think it was the change to VSRs from VSs that was doing it, as I just didn't feel as solid on the left foot which is taking 80kg on 4mm....  (all hand force is through opposing sidepulls, so not taking much load off). Conditions got worse so sacked it off.

Sunday: TCA for a potter with GF who's just recovering from 'rona. Chill fun day of trying things.

[duncan]

Turned 40

Congratulations! NW Scotland looked glorious last week, very envious you could get out and up there.

M - Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands and so on.
T - Warmed up with some shoulder and elbow conditioning and a few fingerboard short hangs. Westway autobelay to 6c. A good session.
W - 9km walk. Up to Stockport for a family gathering.
T - Back to London. Stopped off at Matlock Bath and wandered round High Tor to see how I felt about the place. It was lovely to be there. A short hangboard session and a few pull-ups in the evening.
F - Tired. 10km walk.
S - Westway bouldering. Brief fingerboard and some shoulder conditioning to warm-up. Short session: flashed a couple of slabby ‘V3’s, and a slabby ‘V4’, failed repeatedly on steeper ‘V2’s. Lacking in oomph on anything beyond vertical even more than usual.
S - Battered. Shoulder and elbow conditioning. Walked 10km.

Good to get out of London, should have arranged some climbing or at least explored some south peak bouldering, but was keen to be home before the lad got back from school. Last time I was at High Tor was traumatic, so happy I felt comfortable there. Need to try some climbing now!

Training going reasonably well, other than my perennial incapacity on anything that involves pulling on steeper ground. Will try to get out this week.

[tommytwotone]

LTG: back to Font 7a outdoors


M: gym after work - bit of an unstructured session (first one back in ages), but did try some deadlifts and it appears I can still shift 90kg which I wasn't expecting (previous 1RM was 120kg)


T: Lattice YouTube core workout on lunch. Still no idea why I can't do tucks.


W: Nice day, pass, so knocked off early and went to Shipley for an after-work session. Nice little wander from the Dog's Dinner area down to YMC wall doing a load of stuff of easy grade, just enjoying being out.


Sat: Swimming with eldest in the morning


Sun: Spent afternoon breaking down / removing / taking to tip a desk unit from youngest's bedroom, which was definitely a good "functional fitness" workout!

[edshakey]

T: Lattice YouTube core workout on lunch. Still no idea why I can't do tucks.

Not sure if this is the same exercise, but I struggled to do v sits (the ones with bent legs, similar to tucks?) and then tried adding ankles weights and it made it easier? Felt like I was tipping backwards before, this made me more balanced. Think after a while it felt doable without the ankle weights, so it helped to be able to modify the exercise so I was actually able to do the movement.

Might be worth a shot? Or it's not the right kind of exercise/issue, in which case this is of little use 

Edit: just looked up the video, think it's the same exercise

[shark]

~11.13

M. Back to Millstone with Mark. Started on left end and he led Plexity HVS and I did Estremo HVS which entailed surmounting a ginormous detached block. Moved to Keyhole Caves and belayed Mark on the first pitch of Oxford Street then stepped up and led Regent Street E2 without drama (broke my ankle on it BITD) Laced it. So good.

T. Drive to Cambridge and back

W. Few hangs and pull-ups. Moat with Derek. Excalibur wet. Did a 6c+ with a fall then had a working session on Moat People 7b+ on top rope. Fairly sure I did this BITD but lots of holds must have fallen off in the last 25+ years

T. Turned 59  Tor with Ben S. Good scene. Worked the nu skool way of doing the crux on Sardine (holds have come off). Got a sequence but felt really hard.

F. Drove to Devon

S. Weighted deadhangs on Metolius Edge. FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups up then 10, 10 and 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x2 pull ups then 10,10 and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg (Was tired and cold so skipped pull-ups) FC,HC and Drag  10, 10 and 10secs +30kg FC, HC and Drag Fail!, 5 secs and 6 secs

S. Felt a bit iller. Drove back from Devon

Cold has been lingering last week but think it might be gone now. American friend Jerry over tomorrow for 18 days so looking forward to doing some classics with him. BMW too expensive to repair. Will be sad to see it go.

[Will Hunt]

W - afternoon at Malham. Had a first look at Mescalito and found it completely perplexing.

In case it wasn't obvious this was an invitation for people to dump their beta into this thread. I'm looking at you, Shark.

[tommytwotone]

T: Lattice YouTube core workout on lunch. Still no idea why I can't do tucks.

Not sure if this is the same exercise, but I struggled to do v sits (the ones with bent legs, similar to tucks?) and then tried adding ankles weights and it made it easier? Felt like I was tipping backwards before, this made me more balanced. Think after a while it felt doable without the ankle weights, so it helped to be able to modify the exercise so I was actually able to do the movement.

Might be worth a shot? Or it's not the right kind of exercise/issue, in which case this is of little use 

Edit: just looked up the video, think it's the same exercise

Good shout - that's exactly what I mean, starting the movement is fine but once I'm in a shallow V feels like I'm tipping about.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM good mornings 90/100 kg. Bentover rows. High pulls.
Tue - BM pockets +2 kg. Not front2, left index still healing. Strong. Bar work.
Wed - Tyson push ups, full body planks and variations.
Thu - good mornings, bentover rows, high pulls in a beautiful, rusty, old school gym in Sevilla.
Fri - ut supra, regular weights.
Sat - as Wednesday.
Sun - fast walking, lunges.

[shark]

W - afternoon at Malham. Had a first look at Mescalito and found it completely perplexing.

In case it wasn't obvious this was an invitation for people to dump their beta into this thread. I'm looking at you, Shark.

 

LH undercut RH sidepull pinch by bolt RF smear LF rock up a bit on top of ledge LH to cramped crimp  RH snatch to large sidepull LF thru to slopey black dish at base of nighe RF bridge to knobbly flake LF bounce up to crozzly polished edge RF adjust LH to high gaston hang out a bit use thumbs and udge RF in to whitefoothold a couple of inches to left LF bounce to edge on wall or just flag RH up to fat and polished undercut pinch of overlap  LF in to outside edge slanty white hold just above rf RF flag LH to edge on wall RF on small crozzle in tufa LF to high niche black sloper Adust RH in undercut LH windmill to ticked edge RH to low undercut RF on top of crozzly tufa LF  edge (not too high) RH to thumb in flake then again up to sharp edge LF up on bigger hold CLIP RF onto hard to spot nobble in middle of slsb above bulge rock up and push up to reach LH  to sharp shallow crozzly black pocket LF up LH up again to similar crozzly pocket RF bridge to sidehold RH to undercut sidepull pinch feet up and pull up to rest and clip
LF up on left side of high polished edge LH low sidepull in bulge RF swap with LF LF on bump on top of rounded lump RH Gaston  high sidepull udgey rockup LH to sidehold pinch in bulge RF bounce up on difficult to see nibble/smear RH undercut feet smear up above bulge share undercut CLIP RH to sidepull pinch set feet up with LF on smear in faint depression and RF on obvious black edge out right LH intermediate bump up to undercut then again to reach with LH to hold side of pocket slot LF smear Rf smear beside it Lf to crozzly niche Rf on black edge over bulge Rh to crozzly undercut sidepull Lf bridge Rf bridge CLIp Rh up a bit to funny sidepull with thumb bit outside RF awkwardly on nubbin LF outside edge on high polished edge RF smear on rubber patch loooong stretch left with LH for sidepull lump cross RF onto obvious black smear LF on fin RH gaston big flake bounce RF higher to bridge crozzly white niche LH to pinch large undercut LF in onto very polished patch RF up to black crozzles RH to large sidepull CLIp LF on whitey gray  crozzly foothold LH stretch for large sidehold swap feet on foothold LF on edge RH to ledge Lh to sidehold RF bounce up to edge over bulge Rh up a bit higher to incut edge LH to higher sidepull in bit that’s positive and undercutty RF on ledge CLIP Rh to widepinch on downward pointing flake Rf down LF up a Lh gaston flake RH up to big hiddenish sidehold stand on ledge and shake Lh to jug at base of groove then up to match big flatty CLIP right fioot on small white smear LHeel in groove rock LH to awkward undercut just above flatty RH for crozzly rounded edge LH  (across for)  ticked sidehold RF cross over awkwardly to edge LF flag left RH to pinch mono (with thumb and forefinger) LF in on white smearRF onto flatty RH stretch again  to get good sidepull with RH not much for LH RH CLIP feet up LH reach to good hold in base of groove RH to gaston nick in rib LF on obvious small black foothold RF on high smear push up LH to firt ticked edge RF high in groove with knee pressing hard in overlap RH to low sidepull to clip belay

HTH

[Dolly]

Could we have a bit more detail please ?

[Fultonius]

We need to start feeding Shark's beta into ChatGPT:

As an AI language model, I do not have access to real-time data on climbing routes, including the beta for climbing the route Mescalito at Malham Cove in England. However, beta or route information for climbing can often be found on climbing forums or guidebooks. It is important to note that climbing can be a dangerous activity and requires proper training, experience, and equipment. It is recommended to consult with experienced climbers or seek professional guidance before attempting any climbing route.

Fuck me, didn't realise it was 9b and the hardest route in the world 

Mescalito is a notoriously difficult route at Malham Cove, a popular climbing destination in England. It is considered one of the hardest sport climbs in the world, with a grade of 9b (5.15b) on the French grading system.

Climbers attempting Mescalito face a steeply overhanging wall, with difficult and technical moves throughout. The route is also known for its sustained nature, with no real rest points to recover on.

In short, Mescalito is an extremely challenging climb that requires a high level of strength, technique, and endurance. It is not a climb that should be attempted without significant experience and training at lower grades.

[GazM]

Never quite got my Birthday Tick of "whingeing consultants" (7b+ but very bouldery and powerful) but got close.

Good choice for an auspicious life step tick. I had Whingeing Consultants as a pre-wedding project 8 years ago (jeez, where did that time go?). Ive not done many at the grade but got the impression it's not a gift.

[shark]

Fuck me, didn't realise it was 9b and the hardest route in the world 

Probably now 9a+ with the newly located belay.

And kneepads.

[Will Hunt]

Pretty good, Simon, pretty good, but you forgot the kneebar in the middle of the New Dawn runout 

[moose]

The king of the anal beta spreadsheet returns to claim his crown...

Start
RH low sidepull; LH flaky undercut (furthest left); RH higher sidepull; bump LH into nearer undercut; RH crimp the flake; step LF through onto poor smear and flag RF onto flaky edges to right; roll over LH to gaston slot; bump LF onto higher smear and RF onto higher and nearer poor smear; RH flake; LH slopey crimp; step RF in onto slanting edge and bridge LF back onto slot; bump RF along flake to pinchy part; step through LF onto high smear and paste RF on nubbin in crozzly tufa; stretch RH up to high crimp; flag RF and bump RH to slot undercut; LH onto left crimp of pair above flake, RH onto adjacent right crimp, bump LH down into undercut pocket, and bump RH across to just vacated left crimp and [clip-3].

To New Dawn
Smear up and LH to crozzly pocket; RH good sidepull; LH crimp just below overlap; match jug in overlap [clip-4] and rest.
LF rubbered flatty; LH highest sidepull; step RF in onto tiny polished nubbin above LF, flag LF out onto slopey rib to left; RH undercut in roof, LH tufa hold in roof [clip-5].
RH sidepull above roof; RF smear against slanting underside of overlap to right; step LF through to smear (the right of a pair - to right of bolt); bump RF across to rubbered spike; stretch LH to tufa pocket in next roof, RH adjacent jug [clip-6]

Follow New Dawn to mantel-of-doom ledge: get onto ledge at LHS using RH sidepull to get RF outside edge on high rail (LF pushing against flaky vertical edges to left).  [clip - also have draw on sling to protect mantel] and shake-out

Finish
From New Dawn ledge to next ledge and [clip] and shake-out.  RH crimp on ledge; bridge LF out to rubbered nubbin LH to highest sidepull; RF onto polished smedge and bridge LF onto little square-cut edge to left; RH mono crozzle and backstep RF onto big ledges; get established on ledge; LH tiny flaky undercut near bolt; RH decent sidepull [clip].

Cross LH onto gaston, RF onto high smear to right; step LF in onto slanting smear; LH crack in big flake; RH to crimp; RF smear; LF high rubbered smedge; rock up to crimp (right of the pair); bump RH to pinch; RF on either poor smedge or high on flake; bump LH to next crimp; RH to just vacated crimp; [chains].

[SA Chris]

I had Whingeing Consultants as a pre-wedding project 8 years ago (jeez, where did that time go?). Ive not done many at the grade but got the impression it's not a gift.

Or a wedding gift

[Fultonius]

No wedding plans for now. Might go back for another few rounds.

Were you using the high gaston in the crozzley flake, or the press/gaston on the bigger tooth straight above?

I reckon that crux is 6B+/6C, and therefore 7b+ is sandbag!

[GazM]

I cant actually remember what I did, but a blog I wrote back in the day says this:
"the crux section of this route boils down to working round a roof and having to use a righthand gaston, matching it and turning it into a layback to pull up into a distant undercut."
From here: http://gaz-softrock.blogspot.com/2015/08/whinging-part-2.html?m=1
Does that make sense?

[Fultonius]

Yep. Between us we found 3 different ways of doing it - all hard!