[edshakey]

Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?

[James Malloch]

Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?

Spoiler below…

NSFW  :

Yep, Toby won the semis

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8322

and molly came 4th 

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8323

[Teaboy]

NSFW  :

Only one male made both lead and boulder finals as against 4 women (from my brief scan)

[Duma]

Don't think so?

2 men (Dohyun and Sorato) and 3 women (Janja, Brooke, and Ai) in both finals?

[Teaboy]

Glad I made it NSFW, hopefully means not as many people ready my nonsense!

[finbarrr]

Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.

Is it because the no-tex holds can't bite into the skin at all -so the only way to stick on is by a sort of sucker effect? At work, we've got labels for glass fish tanks that are just very smooth flexible plastic with no glue. They stick solidly even to damp glass. I guess the aim is to become a human climber version of those tank labels.

I thought this worthy of more debate,
Though I’m hesitant to write much on my phone (in Zwitserland for the holidays) , I’ll try.
The no tex/polished holds seemed to affect different skin types differently. Nicolai Usnik did not seem to have much trouble, but I did not have the luxury of rewind buttons, so I could not see his skin prep. Maybe it helped that he was the first one on clean holds.
The others had more problems.
I think Sam avazou only stuk the slippery part on his third try with water. Kokoro had no chance with magnesium.
Anraku did not like his one try with water , and had no chance with magnesium.
Mawem seemed very far off until he used his lotion/potion. My guess is that it was liquid chalk with resin. He seemed to rub it on his skin, wipe off the excess, then climb before it dried out.
Now here comes the issue.
Was there resin in his “chalk”?
how much resin is allowed?
How much should be allowed?
I don’t know
Personally , I’d fancy the goo that strong men use to pick up atlas balls

[sirlockoff]

there's a climbing feat where you need to lift a flipped beer pint with thumb on the side and index finger on the bottom (I hold the current sheffield record of 5 pints stacked to each other), anyone who has played it knows that your hands need to be sticky (not wet, but not dry either, just at the perfect middle, anything else and it is impossible),

now how this converts to these glassy texture holds I am not sure

[edshakey]

Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?

Spoiler below…

NSFW  :

Yep, Toby won the semis

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8322

and molly came 4th 

https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8323

I appreciate the answer, but I was just taking the piss at the previous messages saying the same thing twice

NSFW  :

Shame it didn't pan out for them in the end. Absolutely gutted for them both, especially Toby to fall in that way. Fingers crossed his luck can change for combined

[lukeyboy]

Does anyone know when the men's and women's combined semis and finals are happening? Looks like perhaps yesterday/today?

I found it difficult to find on IFSC website, but I am an idiot.

[RobK]

Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.

Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.

[lukeyboy]

Nice one, cheers

[James Malloch]

Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.

Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.

They are well worth watching if you get time, especially the lead.

[SA Chris]

How many go through to the final in the combined?

[edshakey]

How many go through to the final in the combined?

8 men, 8 women

[SA Chris]

Thanks

[SA Chris]

Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?

[lukeyboy]

Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.

Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.

They are well worth watching if you get time, especially the lead.

Cheers, I watched the short highlights earlier which was as much as I had time for but gave an idea of the rounds.

NSFW  :

Love that Janja had made 6th place (from memory?) before even stepping onto the lead route. And great to see Toby placing so well 

[Bradders]

Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?

Yeah, seemed like a very hard move going right hand to an absolutely tiny rail with the right hand, off a left sloper with poor feet, to get onto the headwall.

Thought the scoring system and combined format was great, made for some really interesting results. Also seems to give a nicely even weighting to both elements.

NSFW  :

Amazing performance from Schubert on the lead route to make it through despite a really poor boulder round. Top class.

Similar for Toby, he just seems to come alive when he gets onto a headwall, cruise control.

Have to feel it's Sorato's to lose though.

Paul Jenft had an amazing boulder round too. Made very little impression on the lead route but it didn't matter.

Janja will surely win the women's given her ability in both styles, Ai being nowhere near in boulder and Bertone not being quite as good on lead.

[lukeyboy]

Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?

Yeah, seemed like a very hard move going right hand to an absolutely tiny rail with the right hand, off a left sloper with poor feet, to get onto the headwall.

Thought the scoring system and combined format was great, made for some really interesting results. Also seems to give a nicely even weighting to both elements.

NSFW  :

Amazing performance from Schubert on the lead route to make it through despite a really poor boulder round. Top class.

Similar for Toby, he just seems to come alive when he gets onto a headwall, cruise control.

Have to feel it's Sorato's to lose though.

Paul Jenft had an amazing boulder round too. Made very little impression on the lead route but it didn't matter.

Janja will surely win the women's given her ability in both styles, Ai being nowhere near in boulder and Bertone not being quite as good on lead.

Agreed, the scoring system was good and well balanced. Much better to base it on progress on the routes rather than relative placing to other competitors, so it takes account of performances being really close, or miles apart, rather than just 1st place and 2nd place (then multiplication bullshit).

[Offwidth]

A heads up for the Para finals... in the 6 hour running time the actual climbing starts at about 30 minutes in and finishes around the 4 hour mark. The climbing is on four routes which range from F6c to F8a+

https://www.youtube.com/live/RwQbZNGSUZA?feature=share

[Teaboy]

Agreed, the scoring system was good and well balanced. Much better to base it on progress on the routes rather than relative placing to other competitors, so it takes account of performances being really close, or miles apart, rather than just 1st place and 2nd place (then multiplication bullshit).

It certainly worked well this time but its not hard to imagine an alternative scenario with a set of very hard boulders and a relatively easy lead route which would favour the lead climbers, or vice versa of course. A lot of pressure in the route setters ti get it consistent but I do think its good that progress on individual boulders is more granular (although it must mean longer problems generally)

[James Malloch]

A heads up for the Para finals... in the 6 hour running time the actual climbing starts at about 30 minutes in and finishes around the 4 hour mark. The climbing is on four routes which range from F6c to F8a+

https://www.youtube.com/live/RwQbZNGSUZA?feature=share

Cheers for the time range. I’m planning to watch it on Monday 🙂

Did they talk about the route grades on the commentary?

It would be interesting to know what the ranges are for the other routes/boulders.

[Offwidth]

Yes, on the commentary with all the usual provisos that the setters don't want to talk about grades; and then of course that grades involve topping out. Still, watching someone like Seb approach his route and get to where he did blows my mind and overall, as a set of finals, it was very varied and compelling viewing.

[Wellsy]

Schubert has been eating his weetabix...

[jwi]

Schubert understood the assignment, as they say