Anyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?
Quote from: Bradders on August 05, 2023, 09:29:57 amThoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.Is it because the no-tex holds can't bite into the skin at all -so the only way to stick on is by a sort of sucker effect? At work, we've got labels for glass fish tanks that are just very smooth flexible plastic with no glue. They stick solidly even to damp glass. I guess the aim is to become a human climber version of those tank labels.
Thoughts on the see-through no-tex holds? I don't really understand why having slightly damp hands would help. Certainly made for an entertaining final problem, especially when Mawem just stuck the move to the zone.
Quote from: edshakey on August 06, 2023, 12:23:28 pmAnyone know if Molly and Toby made finals?Spoiler below…NSFW : Yep, Toby won the semis https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8322and molly came 4th https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1301/cr/8323
Semis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.
How many go through to the final in the combined?
Quote from: RobK on August 10, 2023, 08:43:25 amSemis were yesterday. Women's finals tomorrow, men's finals on Saturday.Edit: I watched the semis yesterday. Enjoyed the new scoring format (did not enjoy the commentary team explaining it a million times and saying how complicated it is, it isn't) but seems to put a lot of pressure on the setters to create two balanced rounds.They are well worth watching if you get time, especially the lead.
Looks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?
Quote from: SA Chris on August 10, 2023, 10:37:51 amLooks like there was a stopper move in the women's lead, so they all get the same points?Yeah, seemed like a very hard move going right hand to an absolutely tiny rail with the right hand, off a left sloper with poor feet, to get onto the headwall. Thought the scoring system and combined format was great, made for some really interesting results. Also seems to give a nicely even weighting to both elements.NSFW : Amazing performance from Schubert on the lead route to make it through despite a really poor boulder round. Top class. Similar for Toby, he just seems to come alive when he gets onto a headwall, cruise control. Have to feel it's Sorato's to lose though.Paul Jenft had an amazing boulder round too. Made very little impression on the lead route but it didn't matter. Janja will surely win the women's given her ability in both styles, Ai being nowhere near in boulder and Bertone not being quite as good on lead.
Agreed, the scoring system was good and well balanced. Much better to base it on progress on the routes rather than relative placing to other competitors, so it takes account of performances being really close, or miles apart, rather than just 1st place and 2nd place (then multiplication bullshit).
A heads up for the Para finals... in the 6 hour running time the actual climbing starts at about 30 minutes in and finishes around the 4 hour mark. The climbing is on four routes which range from F6c to F8a+https://www.youtube.com/live/RwQbZNGSUZA?feature=share