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Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023 (Read 1214 times)

Duma

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Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 16, 2023, 05:18:02 pm
M - Portland, very wet overnight and knackered from previous few days so drove back to Bristol after breakfast.
T -
W - TCA, 90 min, bouldering mostly on blacks, got reasonably close to a blue too.
T - run, 5k, hilly, off road, 25 min.
F - FP, 1hr (lunch). Few 6C-7A things.
S -
S - UCR 90min, doubles on routes: 6a6c, 7b7a, 7a+7a(failed on both), 7a7a(failed high on second one), 7a(failed same place, then worked out much better beta). Feeling a bit tired and don't think I rested enough between goes.

71kg

Aussiegav

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#1 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 16, 2023, 07:46:08 pm
Monday -
Planned to go to Giggleswick South with Phil, but rained out. 
We went to the Depot for bouldering session. No schedule, just potter around. Felt tired from yesterdays climbing. Climbed for 3 hours had a break for a coffee & chat. Repeated two of the purples first go from last week & did a new one 3rd go.
Feel a bit laden with a cold. Runny nose, cough & headache.
In all, it’s been a great Easter weekend.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday
4min problems
Didn’t complete any. Some were close some way off.
1. Crimps and high left foot.
2. Groove
3. Undercling with left heel
4. Slab dyno
5. Slab silly finish
6.

Thursday
Peloton 30min ride


Friday
Rest

Saturday
Return to Horseshoe Quarry to Redpoint The Leading Line.  Had a go on top rope to refine sequencing & avoiding seepage.  Did it first Redpoint go.  Tried Say it With Flowers, 6c on a top rope. Completely bamboozled how that goes.

Sunday

Home Weights
3x10/side Lawn mower starts 20kg KB

3x10 dumbbell press overhead

Press ups
3x10


This afternoon & evening consisted of drinking wine whilst making dinner and dancing with the good wife to a trance mix on Spotify.

monkoffunk

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#2 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 16, 2023, 10:49:30 pm
Yoga every day, elbow physio most.

M - Strength/ conditioning. Return to a few half crimp pull ups, going to try and be gradual this time for elbow.

T - Some hours after elbow physio, warm up and then 10 half crimp pull ups in 4 sets. Ever so slight complaint on last set; enough to know I have some way to go. Skin in a fairly shocking state, anywhere there was a blister peeling.

W - Unexpected visit from friend. Nothing today. Missed physio, but did yoga.

T - Postponed getting out due to friends visit. Brief ‘swim’ in sea but still freezing. Repeaters in eve 7 on 13 off style. Some hammers and Arnold’s after. To be honest probably for the best as skin still crap.

F - Rest mostly

S - Half crimp pull ups after good warm up. I can feel elbow but it seems ok, not worse. I feel like I could be adding weight to everything if it wasn’t for elbow. Have lost about 7kg since Christmas though, so maybe just feeling stronger as lighter. Few hammers and Arnold’s after.

Gave the new index finger skin a bit of abuse with some sandpaper, feels like I might need less superglue next week than I thought.

S - Carried daughter to top of hill fort which feels like exercise.

Shame not to climb, but I should be out on Tuesday. Will probably need alpine start to avoid the soaring temps, but at least rain seems unlikely. Felt totally crap most of the week, can’t seem to shake viral hangover from couple of illnesses back to back, probably not sleeping enough.

duncan

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#3 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 17, 2023, 09:14:07 am


M - Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands and so on.
T - Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, a few pull-ups.
W - Walked 10km
T - Westway autobelay. 15 routes to 6b+. A good session.
F - Shoulders conditioning: handstands, IsYsTs on the rings. Saw Yo La Tengo at the London Palladium (!). Band were magnificent; crowd as elderly and polite (and less diverse) as you see at the opera.
S - Walked 8 km.
S - Westway bouldering. Fingerboard and some shoulder conditioning for warm-up. Short session, flashed a couple of ‘V3’s, spanked by several ‘V4’s. Anything over vertical felt nails.

A relatively restful few days. Feeling fairly fit but weak, who would have guessed after three weeks in Spain! Single parenting and house husbandry for the next month, might manage the odd day trip here and there but will be treating this as a training block. Emphasis on short endurance for sport and, later, traddy goals. Will need to be careful with the elbows.

Will Hunt

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#4 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 17, 2023, 09:35:34 am
Tu - Harrogate Wall routes. Onsighting stuff.

Su - Malham. Had a couple of goes up Herbie. Felt a bit greasy so skin is worse for wear. Think I figured out acceptable sequences on everything. Avoided the mono using sidepulls to the right - not sure if that's easier as I didn't spend much time trying to figure out a good sequence with the mono. Psyched.

shark

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#5 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 17, 2023, 11:32:57 am
M. Still had lingering cold. Sacked off easy trad with Mark H at Millstone as weather was crap.

T. AM Moat with Ben S. Chilly. Three tie ins on Excalibur 7b+ which I’d tried last year. Felt good on the moves once I’d deciphered last years beta notes. Last go fell off the first move of the crux section. Then did the whole of the crux section in one push. Would have been good to have another redpoint but Ben had to go.

W. Cold got worse

T.

F.Felling better. Plotted with Duncan to go to Ireland in June. Admin interspersed with weighted deadhangs and pull-ups on Ergo Edge

S.

S.

Cold still lingering.  :(

Nibile

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#6 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 17, 2023, 11:45:27 am
Power Club

Mon - 5x10 full thruster, short on time. Tired.
Tue - BM pockets, not bad. Back work.
Wed - AM as usual. PM good mornings 5x10 90 kg. Shrugs. Bar work.
Thu - sliced a finger, no board. Bentover rows 5x5 70 kg. High pulls. Bar work.
Fri - AM as usual. PM goblet squat and push, push ups.
Sat - AM as usual.
Sun - boxing bag. Didn't have the magic but I ground through.

mr chaz

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#7 Re: Power Club 692 10 - 16 April 2023
April 17, 2023, 12:14:38 pm
Power Club:
M.
T.
W.
T. Evening board session - low gravity. Best set of warm up hangs yet, and finished with an unassisted 1arm hang on right arm (23mm edge). Struck off two more hardish projects first try of the night. Stopped whilst still going strong for fear of splitting tip again.
F.
S.
S. Evening board session. Gravity now reset to 9.8, warmed up, then split my tip approximately 3 climbs into session. Balls.

 

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