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Quick hit solo bouldering Lleyn Peninsula (Read 1167 times)

sdm

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I'm staying in Botwnnog on a family holiday for the week with toddlers. Any bouldering windows are likely to be limited to an hour or two in the morning or evening while the little ones are asleep.

Any recommendations for must try problems/venues for a lone boulderer who is short on time so I can make the most of my time? Short walk ins, easy to find and good landings are all a bonus.

Anything up to 8Aish but would probably prefer quick hits in the 5-7B rather than falling off the same hard problem over and over as I'm unlikely to return soon.

Porth Ysgo, Porth Nefoedd and Talfarach are all close by.

The only place I've been to before is Porth Ysgo a long time ago, which was great but I seem to remember it had some good landings, and some shocking ones.

r-man

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Tried to get to the  Hell's Mouth boulder at Nefoedd recently. It does look good in the guidebook. After half an hour walk, then half an hour of trying to force a path through the brambles, we gave up when we hit a gorse bush that even Dawid couldn't get through. We went back and played on the boulder on the approach, which had a nice 7A trav and a 7A+ arete sitter, plus flat grassy landings. Dawid did find a way down to the beach, but he said it was quite steep, and the rest of us wanted no more sketchiness.

sdm

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Thanks. Ones to avoid are very useful too.

dontfollowme

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What about Fisherman's view boulders above Porth Ysgo? Decent little circuit there.

PlainCroi$$ant

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Talfarach not worth it without several pads and ideally a spotter too.

Nefoedd has some really good stuff (agree the hells mouth block isn’t worth the trek). Hang ‘Em High is ace - just get the tide right.

Ysgo is probably the best bet though for quantity of problems you can get stuck into on your own (plus easiest access).

Johnny Brown

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Pen y gogo would be a good bet for a really short session, close to Botwnnog and the road. Or the crag above Rhiw. There is low tide stuff at the North end of Porth Oer too, again prob quicker to approach than Ysgo.

fatneck

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The stuff above Rhiw is a good call as is the fox boulder above Nefoedd.

I'd also recommend Porth Dinllaen for a quick hit and Porth Ty Mawr for a slightly longer hit thought with worse landings if you found the time...

sdm

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Thanks for all the tips. I managed to squeeze in 3 sessions at Ysgo, one at Nefoedd and one at Pen y Gogo. Had a great time, mostly doing volume on the easier classics.

Hang 'Em High at Nefoedd looked great but I decided it was outside my solo comfort zone. One to go back for another time.

Porth Dinllaen was in the running for our final beach day but we decided to go to Penllech instead.

 

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