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North West Highlands Bouldering (Read 4734 times)

Dingdong

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North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 09:40:22 am
Will be visiting and staying in Poolewe for a week next month and weather permitting I’d love to get out and explore the local bouldering. Will be going torridon on the way up but would love to get on stuff nearer to Poolewe/Loch Maree etc - if anyone has some good beta please let me know  :)

andy moles

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#1 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 10:29:40 am
I don't think there's heaps to go at close to Poolewe and Loch Maree, which is slightly surprising given the volume of cragging in the area.

If I remember correctly all the bouldering on the peninsula between Gairloch and Dundonnell is summarised on a single page of the most recent Bouldering in Scotland book. Which isn't to say there isn't more to sniff out.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2023, 10:35:22 am by andy moles »

PlainCroi$$ant

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#2 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 10:34:28 am
There isn't loads of developed bouldering immediately around there but lots of potential for sure (In around Stone Valley Crags?). There's some good highballs (marked largely as trad routes) and some easy bouldering at Mellon Charles/Mellon Cliffs just up the road from Aultbea. The sport at Loch Maree and Goat Crag is good.
Such a beaut spot there, enjoy!

andy moles

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#3 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 10:36:36 am
There are some decent looking boulders beneath Carn Mor if you're feeling really intrepid  ;)

Dingdong

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#4 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 10:39:34 am
There isn't loads of developed bouldering immediately around there but lots of potential for sure (In around Stone Valley Crags?). There's some good highballs (marked largely as trad routes) and some easy bouldering at Mellon Charles/Mellon Cliffs just up the road from Aultbea. The sport at Loch Maree and Goat Crag is good.
Such a beaut spot there, enjoy!

Some good beta thanks! Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential

andy moles

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#5 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:04:24 am
Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential

It's partly the nature of the geology, a lot of the crags around there are on domes of gneiss, which means acres of exposed rock but doesn't often lend itself to good bouldering opportunities (with some exceptions).

There is sandstone on the two big peninsulas either side of Loch Ewe, you might have better luck there.

I tried to develop a venue nearby recently, sadly it's mostly choss, but the one worthwhile line has been fluffed for somebody. Probably about 7B+. I'm failing to do an Instagram link but if you're interested you can find it with my name.

PlainCroi$$ant

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#6 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:21:16 am
Yeah Mellon Charles is one of those Loch Ewe sandstone spots!

Dingdong

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#7 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:21:35 am
Maybe I’ll bring some brushes and clean some stuff then, shame there isn’t more established bouldering around there as it looks like loads of good potential

It's partly the nature of the geology, a lot of the crags around there are on domes of gneiss, which means acres of exposed rock but doesn't often lend itself to good bouldering opportunities (with some exceptions).

There is sandstone on the two big peninsulas either side of Loch Ewe, you might have better luck there.

I tried to develop a venue nearby recently, sadly it's mostly choss, but the one worthwhile line has been fluffed for somebody. Probably about 7B+. I'm failing to do an Instagram link but if you're interested you can find it with my name.

Cheers andy, sent you a message on Instagram!

Johnny Brown

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#8 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:30:14 am
Lovely area. No idea on bouldering, but do some hillwalking e.g. An Teallach and try to get hold of a canoe or kayak.

Dingdong

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#9 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:32:02 am
Lovely area. No idea on bouldering, but do some hillwalking e.g. An Teallach and try to get hold of a canoe or kayak.

Aye my partners family go every year for two weeks, we'll definitely be doing some hillwalking and kayaking on loch maree  ;D

SA Chris

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#10 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
March 30, 2023, 11:38:24 am
The developed Loch Maree boulders are on UKC, but apparently loads more to do there. Hamfunk might pitch up and give you some more beta. There is tons of excellent quality rock in the area though.

Sadly Richie's excellently named problem is not actually that close to Poolewe

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coire_nan_arr_boulders-21391/pushmi-poolewe-445207

andy_e

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#11 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 09:59:51 am
Richie has done some bouldering up at Stone Valley, but not a huge amount. There's a few Rob Thomas problems in that neck of the woods too. The Loch Maree bouldering Chris mentioned is worthwhile. There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun, and Big Mac's boulder in one of the Coires under An Teallach for the super keen. There's a few other bits around Gairloch mainly developed by Pierre Fuentes that seem pretty decent. There's a load of secret Cunningham family spots around that neck of the woods too, if you got hold of them they might be happy to divulge but I have no beta on their whereabouts. Thomnomnom went looking once but had mixed results.

andy moles

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#12 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 10:23:16 am
There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun

Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.

andy moles

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« Last Edit: April 01, 2023, 10:43:16 am by andy moles »

sherlock

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#14 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 10:49:18 am
There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun

Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.

scragrock

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#15 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 10:58:51 am
There is Zero climbing in the North West of Skagland. Do not waste your time, all you will find is a vast nothingness filled with tiny biting insects and small roving bands of actors recreating well known pertinent monologues from infamous 90s Scottish movies :P

andy moles

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#16 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 11:19:39 am
There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun

Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.

Ah yeah, that's the one. It's in the guidebook and everything isn't it? Must not have been climbed on for a while, even in the sheltered undercuts there was no sign of chalk.

sherlock

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#17 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 11:33:35 am
There's a boulder by Dundonnell that looks quite fun

Any info on this one Andy? I had a look at a couple near Dundonnell recently, one of which was disappointing and one worthwhile but I thought neither looked as though they'd been climbed on.
Do you mean the Goat Boulder behind the JMCS hut?
There's a couple of worthwhile problems and a few old projects. Not as good as it looks initially but quick & easy access. The boulders by the council yard in Dundonnell are very small and dirty but it might be possible to ferret something out.

Ah yeah, that's the one. It's in the guidebook and everything isn't it? Must not have been climbed on for a while, even in the sheltered undercuts there was no sign of chalk.
Yes, fully described in Ian T's Ullapool Bouldering guide from a good few years back.

SA Chris

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#18 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 11:42:34 am
Will be visiting and staying in Poolewe for a week next month

What dates are you there? Might be in the area next week.

Bonjoy

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#19 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 05:41:40 pm
If you're psyched for an exploratory day check out this place 57.731634,-5.465975
I've done a lot of Google earth based virtual exploring in Scotland and this is the boulderfield with the a largest blocks I've come across. Some of the blocks are insanely big and there's quite a lot. Looks like half a mountain collapsed. Long walk in from Poolewe but looks like a stunning walk. Would be great to have someone take a closer look.

Bonjoy

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#20 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 05:48:24 pm

Bonjoy

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#21 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 05:59:02 pm
This gives a better idea but I can't
embed the image. Just look at the size of the trees for scale! https://images.app.goo.gl/7vGbhVzh5CYgcZzA6

andy moles

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#22 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 06:05:58 pm
My photo of the same (also can't seem to embed):

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ThQDjo3ExkO-m14lbUhzMXXybeKHUEF6/view?usp=sharing

The striking arete is supposed to be a good HVS but other than that the whole mountain has only a few scrappy scrambly things and winter routes.

A bit of sweet-talking the estate and a pad-laden canoe up Fionn Loch would be the knowledge!

Dingdong

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#23 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 01, 2023, 08:48:51 pm
I’m gonna be up from 20th of May for a week if anyone fancies a little adventure up!

tc

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#24 Re: North West Highlands Bouldering
April 02, 2023, 08:02:49 pm


Is that the crag with The Beanstalk on it - Beinn Airigh Charr?

 

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