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finches fuel sit start (Read 2291 times)

haydn jones

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finches fuel sit start
February 21, 2023, 08:46:52 pm
Anyone know where this starts? I did it today from a low sit start and it felt nowhere near the 7B grade more like tough 7C.

haydn jones

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#1 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 21, 2023, 08:59:48 pm
https://imgur.com/a/FyYhzYw

These were the start holds that we used today. Felt a grade harder pulling on here than from the higher holds.

Wondering whether it's a first ascent or not.

Bradders

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#2 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 12:31:09 pm
I asked Tom Peckitt about it, and he said;

Quote
Easy mate. Yeah I have done that back in the day (fa I think Ben Bransby but could be wrong). My memory is terrible but I stuck either to / slightly left of the arête. Can’t remember if we sat start…I think we did but could easily have been from standing. Glad you found it though it’s quality

I'll hopefully go again soon to have another look at how it might climb direct on the prow, but if that is how it goes it's not obvious! If it does work like that then I think the version Hayden did will be a new variation.

Anyway, I also yesterday linked the sit start Hayden describes above into the leftwards trending wall. This is documented on UKC as "The Prow", at 6C presumably from a stand, which is bizarre since it doesn't climb the prow at all, and from the full sit it's more like 7B+! It climbs brilliantly. Again wondering whether anyone knows if this has been done before?

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#3 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 12:59:03 pm
I asked Tom Peckitt about it, and he said;

Quote
Easy mate. Yeah I have done that back in the day (fa I think Ben Bransby but could be wrong). My memory is terrible but I stuck either to / slightly left of the arête. Can’t remember if we sat start…I think we did but could easily have been from standing. Glad you found it though it’s quality


Interesting. I remember doing an arete/prow over right of Caley prob in '98 or '99. I don't remember much about it other than I thought it was E3 6b and I went up the arete. As an E3 I very much doubt I did a sit start. I wasn't sure if it was a f.a. or not. I know 100% I didn't give it a name like Finches Fuel. I was prob gonna call it S&M with Mistress Annabelle (if it was a fa, a name to do with a flyer my dad had sent to us in the Leeds house that he had picked up in a phone box when working in London, we stuck it to the front of our Yorkshire grit guide over the photo of Dunne. Mistress Annabelle had a long list of interests...) obv this was a pre pad ascent prob done without abbing it first to clean etc so it felt more like an E route than boulder. Scottish John might have been there. This problem may or may not be the same as what I climbed, I've never found mention of the prow in a guide before or found it again in person.

If it helps add to the list of slightly inaccurate stories that I have heard about myself then can I add the following fake quote from John about it:

Quote from: Scottish John
Oh yes you climbed that whilst you were walking the dog in your wellies from a sit start. Flash.

Just to be doubly clear I remember almost nothing of use about what I did or if this is even the same thing.

northern yob

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#4 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 01:30:40 pm
I asked Tom Peckitt about it, and he said;

Quote
Easy mate. Yeah I have done that back in the day (fa I think Ben Bransby but could be wrong). My memory is terrible but I stuck either to / slightly left of the arête. Can’t remember if we sat start…I think we did but could easily have been from standing. Glad you found it though it’s quality


Interesting. I remember doing an arete/prow over right of Caley prob in '98 or '99. I don't remember much about it other than I thought it was E3 6b and I went up the arete. As an E3 I very much doubt I did a sit start. I wasn't sure if it was a f.a. or not. I know 100% I didn't give it a name like Finches Fuel. I was prob gonna call it S&M with Mistress Annabelle (if it was a fa, a name to do with a flyer my dad had sent to us in the Leeds house that he had picked up in a phone box when working in London, we stuck it to the front of our Yorkshire grit guide over the photo of Dunne. Mistress Annabelle had a long list of interests...) obv this was a pre pad ascent prob done without abbing it first to clean etc so it felt more like an E route than boulder. Scottish John might have been there. This problem may or may not be the same as what I climbed, I've never found mention of the prow in a guide before or found it again in person.

If it helps add to the list of slightly inaccurate stories that I have heard about myself then can I add the following fake quote from John about it:

Quote from: Scottish John
Oh yes you climbed that whilst you were walking the dog in your wellies from a sit start. Flash.

Just to be doubly clear I remember almost nothing of use about what I did or if this is even the same thing.

A suitably vague reply Ben, they were indeed heady times, if it helps I can’t remember Scottish john even being around in 98/99 he didn’t turn up til early 00’s in my equally vague recollection of back then. I can however write off you doing it whilst walking the dog as klem defo wasn’t around back then…. You were probably picking mushrooms and yes I’m sure you probably did flash it.

El Mocho

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#5 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 01:52:09 pm
A suitably vague reply Ben, they were indeed heady times, if it helps I can’t remember Scottish john even being around in 98/99 he didn’t turn up til early 00’s in my equally vague recollection of back then. I can however write off you doing it whilst walking the dog as klem defo wasn’t around back then…. You were probably picking mushrooms and yes I’m sure you probably did flash it.

Maybe I was wondering around picking mushrooms and an arete appeared at just the right time. I put down my bag of shrooms, squeaked my wellies and ascended in a state of heightened consciousness. Holds appearing just where they were needed... I vaguely recall sitting with you and Jvan listening to Jose (in Tuolumne in early 2000s) while he described soloing somewhere and a hand crack appearing and saving his life. He went back there later and the hand crack didn't exist. Jose made a logical argument why this may have actually been the case.

ps I have what is, I imagine, your copy of The Homeless Interpretation of Quantum Mechanics by Chongo and Jose here. Never made it to the end.

SA Chris

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#6 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 01:53:30 pm
Scottish John showed me 3 or 4 different ways to do Pebble Wall (of which i could do 2) when I lived in Leeds and I left at the end of 1999, so he was definitely about. 

northern yob

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#7 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 02:11:01 pm
A suitably vague reply Ben, they were indeed heady times, if it helps I can’t remember Scottish john even being around in 98/99 he didn’t turn up til early 00’s in my equally vague recollection of back then. I can however write off you doing it whilst walking the dog as klem defo wasn’t around back then…. You were probably picking mushrooms and yes I’m sure you probably did flash it.

Maybe I was wondering around picking mushrooms and an arete appeared at just the right time. I put down my bag of shrooms, squeaked my wellies and ascended in a state of heightened consciousness. Holds appearing just where they were needed... I vaguely recall sitting with you and Jvan listening to Jose (in Tuolumne in early 2000s) while he described soloing somewhere and a hand crack appearing and saving his life. He went back there later and the hand crack didn't exist. Jose made a logical argument why this may have actually been the case.

ps I have what is, I imagine, your copy of The Homeless Interpretation of Quantum Mechanics by Chongo and Jose here. Never made it to the end.

Jose was good at making the impossible seem probable…. You can bring THIOQM up north next week, that’s gotta be a collectors item by now.

northern yob

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#8 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 02:13:04 pm
Scottish John showed me 3 or 4 different ways to do Pebble Wall (of which i could do 2) when I lived in Leeds and I left at the end of 1999, so he was definitely about.

Yeah I don’t doubt he was in Leeds at the time. I don’t think he’d entered our world at that point…. My memory is as bad or worse than bens so it’s not gospel.

SA Chris

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#9 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 02:15:41 pm
All good. heady times, lots of substances involved.

Johnny Brown

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#10 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 06:28:47 pm
This must be a different John. I moved into Thornville crescent in Jan 2001, just before foot and mouth. Pretty sure Jvan arrived the following spring, which was the same time Scottish John appeared as they were taking in turns to sleep on the good sofa.

El Mocho

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#11 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 06:49:25 pm
I'm not sure any of this is helping Hayden...

Scottish John wasn't with me when I made a naked (except wellies) onsight flash (literally) whilst tripping on shrooms of the 3* 7C S&M with Mistress Annabelle sit start. I made up the bit about John being there to add credibility to an otherwise dubious story. Obv, as Northern Yob points out, Klem wasn't born yet so I wasn't walking the dog and as much as N.Y. recalls a time of heavy drug consumption I was actually a bit tame so left the shroom picking/bouldering combo to Tetler. My track record with mind altering drugs and climbing (stairs) is fairly mixed. I've no idea why I was at that bit of Caley and why I was on my own. If it even was Caley. The only bit I have a firm memory of is Mistress Annabelle.

Scottish John didn't turn up until later. Maybe SA Chris is thinking of Wobble John, who although not Scottish had done all the Munro's by the age of 5 so may have seemed Scottish and would def have been able to do Pebble Wall many different ways. Probably involving a heel.

Scottish John appeared when I gave him a lift back from Caley (a different time to the whole S&M saga) and I invited him in for a cup of tea. He didn't leave for 3 years.

northern yob

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#12 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 07:40:09 pm
I'm not sure any of this is helping Hayden...

Scottish John wasn't with me when I made a naked (except wellies) onsight flash (literally) whilst tripping on shrooms of the 3* 7C S&M with Mistress Annabelle sit start. I made up the bit about John being there to add credibility to an otherwise dubious story. Obv, as Northern Yob points out, Klem wasn't born yet so I wasn't walking the dog and as much as N.Y. recalls a time of heavy drug consumption I was actually a bit tame so left the shroom picking/bouldering combo to Tetler. My track record with mind altering drugs and climbing (stairs) is fairly mixed. I've no idea why I was at that bit of Caley and why I was on my own. If it even was Caley. The only bit I have a firm memory of is Mistress Annabelle.

Scottish John didn't turn up until later. Maybe SA Chris is thinking of Wobble John, who although not Scottish had done all the Munro's by the age of 5 so may have seemed Scottish and would def have been able to do Pebble Wall many different ways. Probably involving a heel.

Scottish John appeared when I gave him a lift back from Caley (a different time to the whole S&M saga) and I invited him in for a cup of tea. He didn't leave for 3 years.

So basically Hayden has probably done an FA. Despite your elaborate tale, it’s unlikely you can remember enough to make even a shakey claim to anything other than being a light weight and being prone to spoofing when asked about what you’ve climbed. I can confirm your stair climbing whilst under the influence was the exact opposite of your rock climbing….

They were good times, after events this week I’ve been overwhelmed with nostalgia for what was a great time! One day I might try and write some of it down.

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#13 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 07:42:32 pm
Just got back from a rubbish day in the office and this thread is making me giggle.
Lots.
 :beer2:

Johnny Brown

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#14 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 09:45:34 pm
Just need a post from Westie now and we’ll have a full house!

haydn jones

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#15 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 11:12:48 pm
This thread is pure gold.   :popcorn:

SA Chris

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#16 Re: finches fuel sit start
February 22, 2023, 11:15:46 pm
Maybe SA Chris is thinking of Wobble John, who although not Scottish had done all the Munro's by the age of 5 so may have seemed Scottish and would def have been able to do Pebble Wall many different ways. Probably involving a heel.

Maybe I'm confused. He was definitely Scottish (or at least doing a passable impression of one, I hadn't met that many at that time) and I mentioned him to someone later and they said (knowingly) it was probably Scottish John. Two ways involved a heel, two using a twisty toe smear. I had pinks, shit for heels, toe worked.

 

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